mikeb75's build thread

[mikeb75]

Greetings and Salutations.

When this thread grows up it’s going to be the build thread for my 818S, but for the time being all I have is my deposit in and a tentative delivery date of September 2014. So, while I console myself by lurking in the other build threads and making spread sheets of things to buy how about a little back story of how I got here.

My first Subaru was a GL10 wagon in high school, but we shouldn’t count that one since it lived a hard life and died a hard death (of terminal rust).

My first performance car was a 2004 WRX and my first track day was provided by my wife, so technically everything that followed is her fault (but she doesn’t accept blame or credit). After said first track session I was hooked –completely awful at driving but totally hooked. So I began the endless cycle of suspension, brakes, tires and track days when I could get away and afford it.

In 2009 I traded the WRX for a STI hatch back –for the kid! After all a hatchback is ever so much more practical and the STI’s just happened to be hatch only that year. Practicality has since taken a bit of a nose-dive as I’ve worked to get the STI to perform better on the track. Work included coilovers, sways, tires, track brake pads, half of Australia under the car (DBA & Whiteline), turbo back exhaust (couldn’t hear the car banging on the rev-limiter). So after quite a bit of time, sweat, blood and money I’ve got a Subaru that isn’t a total understeering pig… but it is a bit harsh on the road. And now I do have some reservations about tracking regularly a not-completely paid off car with an engine design that is notorious for cracking ringlands.

This year I made it to VIR and that trip pretty much sold me on the idea of having a track specific car. I was redlining in 5th on the 2 straights and having fuel/boost cut issues –not exactly fun. So after checking the bank account and pondering where exactly I would store said car I got serious about it.

Having a track car has been a bit of idle fantasy for a while so the list of potentials wasn’t short:
• Ariel Atom
• Lotus Exige
• Ford Mustang
• Corvette

The first 2 were a bit out of my price range but they definitely spoke to me for what I wanted in (or technically didn’t want in a track car). I drove an Atom through the VRIDE program at VIR and it was absolute bliss: that became my metric against which track cars are compared. The other two, I’m a sucker for the sound of a big American V8 so they were potentials if I could find them cheap enough and get them light enough.

Then a funny thing happened, my father in law asked me if I’d heard anything about the 818. Now he’s a car guy and has always wanted to build a car and had shown me the GTM a few years ago, nice but not quite in my price range, but this new car:
• Kit car -check.
• Really lightweight -check.
• Rear driven wheels -check
• Subaru powered and derived - check.
• Divine providence? –hmmmm.

I’m definitely feeling this, and bonus -already have some potential parts as take offs from the STI. Hemmed and hawed for too long before I finally made the call to put my name on the list, oh what is that? 1 year until delivery, OK.

So until then I’ll be cataloging what I have, what I need and what I want. I’m going to try to keep the project on the low end cost wise and try to keep the car on the low end weight wise.

I’m planning on running the EJ205 2.0L for a few reasons: higher redline and lower torque. The higher redline should help terminal track speed using the 5MT. Lower torque since I don’t think it’s really needed for a light car and to be honest –this is my first RWD car, don’t want to loop it all the time. All my track experience is in AWD cars and nose heavy Subaru’s at that. To get that car around corners I chuck it to the apex under braking then hammer the gas and let the understeer-push and turbo lag drift the car out to track out. I do that quite a bit now without really thinking about it so I’m afraid it may take a while to break my bad habits.

All said, why go with the S model instead of the R for a car I intend to mostly track? Doors. Wife Acceptance Factor [WAF] stated doors were pretty much required. I’ll be looking to adding some additional frame/cage later on in the project if I feel I need it.

TBC...

[longislandwrx]

Welcome Mike.

Great story and glad you were able to get on the short? list before the marketing throws the list into overdrive. FFR said they are now doing 5 818s per week so I imagine you'll be getting your car earlier than expected.

Where are you located, you said in MD?

[mikeb75]

Thanks!


Where are you located, you said in MD?
Yes in MD; north of DC, west of Baltimore, south of Frederick (without putting too much detail out there).
I've got Summit Point 1 hour away, NJMP 3 hours away, VIR 5 hours down the road, Watkins Glen International 5 hours away and Mid-Ohio 6 hours away and so pretty good spot!


glad you were able to get on the short? list before the marketing throws the list into overdrive
Agreed! Wish I'd been a bit quicker on the draw, but I was really undecided until September. That said if FFR can knock a few months off pick-up I wouldn't complain. As it is, I have time to find a donor so I can be choosey -and not writing a check for the total amount isn't killing me right now :)

As it is, I have a basement full of old Subaru parts I need to catalog and clean...

[metros]

Hey Mike,
I'm in northern VA and not too far away from you. I'm currently slated for August 2014, which will be perfect if either one of us runs into a trouble spot.

I picked up my donor about a month ago and have been getting used to how it drives. Saturday it's going to a dyno day to see where power output starts.

Glad to see another local join the 818 community.

[mikeb75]

Very cool metros. Who is doing your dyno work?

We're pretty lucky, there are many very good subi shops in the area, you have Mach 5 close by and I have Andrewtech and TurboXS!

[metros]

^I couldn't agree more. Mach V is my goto shop. But PTuning is having a dyno event on Saturday, so I'll run on their dyno.

I've really been eyeing Element engines as well. I think I'm going to build the car with what I've got and upgrade if I ever pop the motor. I'm just waiting to get the funds from selling my last project (LS rx7) and then I can start figuring out which upgrades I'm going to use to meet my power goals.

[mikeb75]

Spent some time inventorying what I have sitting around from my old ’04 WRX (sold while buying the STI, unfortunately) and take offs from the STI. Right now I’m sitting on:
• Scoobysport (original Hayward and Scott –very old school) muffler
• Raze 17x8 rims (with old as dirt Falken Azenis RT615)
• Progress Auto 22mm rear sway bar
• STI oil pan
• STI front steering arm tie rods and ball joints

I’m close to finalizing my donor car, so of course, while looking at car adds I found a bunch of other things to pick up –because race car, or something like that.
• JDM STI v7/8 Aluminum lower control arms
• Wilwood 4 piston forged superlite calipers
• Perrin light weight crank pulley

After I finalize the donor car it looks like I'm going to be spending some time/money on an engine/drivetrain refresh (at least with the car I'm pursuing right now). After that, back to pie-in-the-sky budget killers!

[mikeb75]

Found and purchased my donor car: a 2003 Sedona Red WRX wagon with 192000 miles on the clock. I had to drive 4 hours (each way) to PA to see and buy the car, but I think I got it for a good price (seller was motivated after 2 months of trying to sell car).


The good: nearly full maintenance records for the car, the engine, transmission and interior are in pretty good shape considering the miles. Has a non-catted downpipe installed, and that is pretty much the only modification

The bad: body is a bit rough with hail damage, assorted dents and rust the alignment seems suspect and I think the struts are gone (not that I care about any of this). The driver’s seat has quite a bit of give -10 years of guys bigger than I am worth.


The engine may be down 15 to 20% peak power and can’t say a 200K mile turbo thrills me. The engine bay has the typical NE salt corrosion (but not as bad as my wife’s old 145K Forrester). The clutch actually seems decent, didn’t feel any slip.

Need to get the car disassembled and the engine and transmission on a stand. Then I can perform a compression test, inspection of the clutch, and cleaning/remanufacture of the parts. Overall though I’m thrilled about the car, it’s in much better shape than I expected. I can probably put off an engine/transmission rebuild for a year or two and gather parts needed for a 2.1 stroker and turbo upgrade.
22615

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome to the forum Mike.

[Mechie3]

My DD is a 2002 WRX with 193k+ miles and still does well. Turbo was changed to an STI turbo by the previous owner though. If you wanted to run that for a year while you build a stroker I would go for it.

[mikeb75]

Welcome to the forum Mike.
Thanks, been lurking here for a while!


My DD is a 2002 WRX with 193k+ miles and still does well. Turbo was changed to an STI turbo by the previous owner though. If you wanted to run that for a year while you build a stroker I would go for it.

Agreed (and thanks for reminding me)! A STI takeoff turbo (vf39/43/48) is on my short list of possibles, if I can find one cheaply. Right now turbo is a bit lower priority though, there are still other things I want to get finalized before starting build proper (have quite a bit of time still)

[metros]

Congrats on picking up a donor. Should work out nicely. They haven't replaced that turbo after that many miles?!

[mikeb75]

Found a used VF39 for under $300 delivered. Click, add to cart, purchase, thank you.

Good thing, was driving the car today and on consideration the engine doesn’t feel particularly spry while my foot is in it. I don’t really remember the ’04 for comparison, but it feels CONSIDERABLY slower than the STI.

This should help. :cool:

[mikeb75]

Jumped on the ‘hot list’ and now have a pick-up date of 17 May 2014. That would be a very, very nice birthday present :cool:

The parts collection continues to grow as I ransack e-bay, craigslist and forums for parts on the want list:
Picked up the Accessport from a CraigsList ad. I’ve had very good results on my prior 2 Imprezas using the Accessport, and TurboXS (a local tuner) supports it, so this was an easy choice, it was just a matter of finding one (the used ones sell real quick). This also makes ‘the plan’ of keeping the stock ECU and wiring harness mandatory now.

Bought a STI v5 long runner intake and throttle body. The plan was to replace or remove the TGVs, but found a listing on NASIOC for this for cheap. I think it is a long runner design and included the STI injectors and fuel rails (and throttle body). Hopefully it will only take a minor amount of work to get it installed and plumbed in and working, and should be a fun side project.

Found a pristine 2008 STI intercooler and a Walbro 255 fuel pump on the same forum.

UEL headers, stainless (some kind). They were used-beer-can cheap, but look nice (OK, they are shiny and the welds aren’t bad). After coating and wrapping they should work fine.

New 10mm oil pump.

FIL found a JDM blow off/recirc valve on ebay that I believe is rated to 25lbs.

Hugely excited now, only need it to warm up so we can take down the donor car.

[Junty]

Hey Mike, great to see another build tread starting. I have a kit leaving from FFR soon, and it is amazing how this forum and ideas get us all so excited. I started with a conservative budget estimate - and it continues to rapidly grow beyond. I started with a 2.0 NA impreza RX donor - added, aluminium from control arms, 08 WRX brakes, 2012 STI engine, VCP ECU & loom (looking at Wayne's wheel options), still need a intercooler - i like Wayne's water system (perfect location on top of box)....
Best of luck - my problem is now regardless of doors budget no longer meets WAF!

[mikeb75]

I have a kit leaving from FFR soon, and it is amazing how this forum and ideas get us all so excited.
Seeing your location -that is very cool, can't wait to see your build. I would make a joke about how well the car will run being 'upside-down', but I'm sure you've heard it all before :rolleyes:


I started with a conservative budget estimate - and it continues to rapidly grow beyond.
I am getting the feeling most of us started that way (the less realistic), but now that the genie has slipped the forum is acting like a arms race/feedback loop where everyone posts their awesome ideas (and there are plenty). I know am looking at some of the chassis improvements being done and thinking "now's a good time to learn to weld"


Best of luck - my problem is now regardless of doors budget no longer meets WAF!
Who was I kidding, WAF was a lie from the start :p.

[mikeb75]

Picked up a godspeed rear lateral link and trailing arm kit for $225. Price is right, hopefully the link ends hold up (ball pivots). They are red though, need to do something about that. I want the entire car black, engine, transmission, header, suspension.

FIL found a used Exedy race flywheel (12 lbs?) on ebay for $63. His price is better! Getting pretty close on the required parts to start the build, just looking for a LSD solution, some solid engine mounts and a KillerB pick-up and probably a complete bushing kit (need to talk to the guys at TiC about that).

[forgot to post this update a while ago...]

[mikeb75]

The flywheel was a bust: mis-advertised -it is for a 2.5L NA model, replaced with a $160 XTC 12lb ebay special and $182 exedy clutch.

Added a replacement water pump $99, dual core radiator + fans + shroud (another ebay special) $193 & torque solutions engine mounts $180 (forum purchase) to the parts pile.

As of today we’re @ $3200 for donor, $3025 for parts and $1000 deposit. Adding the $8990 remaining on the kit puts us ~ $16575, slightly over the 15K goal.

However, the next acquisitions are going to be bank-busters: LSD, seats, SS lines, brake rotors and ideally a bottom hinged pedal box.

[Rasmus]

...looking for a LSD solution...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25878&d=1391472770
I just, today, got in on Race Line's second offering of a Helical Gear Quaife LSD group buy (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13215-As-requested-a-group-purchase-for-Quaife-TBD-differentials). I got the female one (QDH3Y).

[STiPWRD]

Hey Mike, just noticed your build thread, awesome to see another builder in the area!


$16575, slightly over the 15K goal.
You'll be able to recoup a bunch of money by selling unused donor parts. I've made back over $4.5k so far (including the shell and some old performance parts).

[mikeb75]

Hey Mike, just noticed your build thread, awesome to see another builder in the area!


You'll be able to recoup a bunch of money by selling unused donor parts. I've made back over $4.5k so far (including the shell and some old performance parts).

Metros is also in the area, around Stephens city I think. Your sale back numbers are awesome, STiPWRD! I hope I can get close to that after I strip out the donor.

Rasmus, hope your shoulder is on the mend! I spoke with Erik today about LSD's, but am leaning toward the Cusco since the car will spend time on the track. I expect to be plunking down a chunk-o-change tomorrow to get it wrapped up

[mikeb75]

Wrote a big check to my transmission shop for a Cusco LSD type RS 1.5 way, budget is officially blown. :cool:
Also picked up SS lines : front/rear brake and clutch. Have a few more big ticket items to secure.

Now if we could just get a few warm days to tear into the donor so I can actually post on some work being done... ( I want to be cool like everyone else's build threads, the listing of expenses is a touch depressing)

[mikeb75]

Took advantage of the one spring day we’ve had to begin tearing into old rusty the donor. After 3 hours we had the main fluids drained, radiator & condenser out and a start on clearing the front of the engine bay.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_001216.jpg

Annnnd I’m going to need to get my Tetanus shot updated. This car has suffered some Canada and PA winters and it shows. The backing plates of the fog lights had pretty much rusted away to nothing, and it looks like the rear calipers (that I was planning on using) are pretty gone. Won’t know for sure until I get them off, but I don’t think they are salvageable. I hope the knuckles clean up…

[mikeb75]

Disassembly continues (FIL is taking point). Sooo, apparently the lesson is don’t buy a donor from the NE salt belt.

This is going to be fun to get disassembled (bolt rusted half way through):
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140402_104802_resized.jpg

Anyone got duct-tape or JB weld (drivers front LCA rusted/cracked clean through & I drove this car 4 hours from PA):
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140403_153219_resized.jpg

I think Mickey had a flop house behind the AC compressor:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140402_171544_resized.jpg

On the fun side of the leger I rebuilt the front calipers. The pistons and bores had a bit of scoring, but nothing too serious. Popping the pistons out was a bit challenging. I broke the plastic nipple I was using to connect the air hose to the caliper. Happily I had some spare Wilwood threaded fittings from a hydraulic pedal project for a race simulator I worked on last year. One of the fittings fit both the air hose nozzle and the inlet on the caliper and problem solved. Took a little manipulation some squeeze clamps to hold the pistons on one side to free the other.

[Xusia]

OMG. Dude. That's some rust!

[wleehendrick]

:eek: Sooo glad I got a CA car for a donor!

[Westview]

Hey Mike,

That's some serious rust! Sounds like you're not far from me. I'm in Columbia, MD. I picked up my kit this past weekend.

[Quiny]

Disassembly continues (FIL is taking point). Sooo, apparently the lesson is don’t buy a donor from the NE salt belt.

This is going to be fun to get disassembled (bolt rusted half way through):
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140402_104802_resized.jpg

Anyone got duct-tape or JB weld (drivers front LCA rusted/cracked clean through & I drove this car 4 hours from PA):
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140403_153219_resized.jpg

I think Mickey had a flop house behind the AC compressor:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/20140402_171544_resized.jpg

On the fun side of the leger I rebuilt the front calipers. The pistons and bores had a bit of scoring, but nothing too serious. Popping the pistons out was a bit challenging. I broke the plastic nipple I was using to connect the air hose to the caliper. Happily I had some spare Wilwood threaded fittings from a hydraulic pedal project for a race simulator I worked on last year. One of the fittings fit both the air hose nozzle and the inlet on the caliper and problem solved. Took a little manipulation some squeeze clamps to hold the pistons on one side to free the other.

That brings back horrible memories, it was the worst part of the build. If you need it I think longislandwrx still has Thors hammer, you will need it to get the BAB out of the rear spindle.

[mikeb75]

Rustbucket (the car) continues to fight disassembly. The front knuckle pinch bolts were seized, penetrating oil and heat did not release them and the bolts sheared –and the ball joint would not release from the LCAs. Sawzall to the rescue –not really worried about the ball joints, they are being replaced –if we can get them out of the hub and drill out the seized bolts we should be able to salvage them. The rears are another story –rust may have taken out the parking brake backers.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_001235.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_001238.jpg

The steering rack came out also, only sheared 1 of the 4 bolts holding it in place. I think this is going to take quite a bit of cleaning…
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_001237.jpg

[Kurk818]

I feel sorry for you. I didnt even have to do anything more than wipe dust off before paint. Donor: 2006 STI with 95k miles. Seattle car.

[mikeb75]

I feel sorry for you. I didnt even have to do anything more than wipe dust off before paint. Donor: 2006 STI with 95k miles. Seattle car.

Thanks, but don't feel sorry for me; I'm loving every minute of this. And if the rust gets too chunky I get a far away look in my eye and imagine the day I blow the doors off ___ at the track. [fill in the blank with your nemesis or high $ car -mine is the BRZ today - I got spanked last year in my STI by one]

[wleehendrick]

I feel sorry for you. I didnt even have to do anything more than wipe dust off before paint. Donor: 2006 STI with 95k miles. Seattle car.

West coast donors rule! Simple Green and a sponge and my donor parts were good as new. I am taking unnatural pleasure in looking at all these photos of rusty racks and spindles, though.

[Pearldrummer7]

Have you ever seen what Rasmus, Frank818, and myself (among others, I'm sure) have done to reduce some of this Northeast rust?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13816-De-rusting-bucket-removing-rust-from-steel-and-cast-iron-parts-old-school

Might be worth looking into. I can't tell if that's what you're doing in the bucket in the bottom picture (don't see power/anode anywhere).




4 hours from PA....where are you building??


Best of luck!
Frank

[mikeb75]

building in MD north of DC.

Totally have been lurking the BOD thread and all of your build threads. As soon as we get the hubs and rack disassembled they're going into a bucket. Before and after pics should be fun ;)

[Xusia]

Wow. I am seriously in awe of the rust you guys up in the NE have to deal with. I have literally never seen the like. With that kind of rust in just 10 years, I don't think I'd ever a used car up there!

[mikeb75]

(looks like I forgot to post this from last month)
Nice to make some actual progress, now to start reconditioning.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140427_16_01_11_Pro.jpg

What a CF:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140427_16_01_00_Pro.jpg

Interior nearly completely gutted, just need to pull the pedals and rear wiring harness:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140427_16_00_38_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Just about finished up with the donor this weekend. Engine and transmission are pulled, but the rust******* fought us every step of the way.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/IMG_2784.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/IMG_2790.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/IMG_2798.jpg

After sales we’re about $1500 out of pocket. All we are going to use is the engine, transmission, steering column & rack, harness, mirrors & ECU. I’ve sourced new hubs for all 4 corners since the bearings were shot & the cost of new bearings & pressing the old ones out was about a wash.

Dropped the transmission off at Andrewtech today for LSD install and “inspection” (not looking to fix much, just want to make sure it doesn’t grenade right away).

Scheduled for delivery on Saturday of the kit, super excited!

[STiPWRD]

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/IMG_2798.jpg

That's not very nice... j/k I've so been there before

[Mechie3]

^^ We had a saying in the CNY subies club: TNFF! (that's not family friendly!). haha

[mikeb75]

I probably should have prefaced this entire thread as NSFW & NFF :p

At first I wasn't sure what FIL was doing, all I saw was motion to the side of the viewfinder on the camera. I asked him if he was planning to drop-trou and do something horribly inappropriate...

[mikeb75]

After delays, delays and more delays took delivery of the kit last Friday; chassis #206.

The driver Steve was super helpful and made the act of suspending a car in the air held up by a few chains not a total disaster.
Over the weekend I got through stripping the chassis and inventorying a few boxes. Should get through the remaining ones this week; then we can get to work.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140608_16_42_17_Pro.jpg
(yea, about the floor -that's a long story involving a nest of angry hornets... not a happy memory)

FYI, gas tanks are still back ordered (well mine is anyway…), and a couple of other parts. Gives me a chance to catch up on the clean/ remanufacturing of parts that I’ve been slacking on.

For grins a couple of slide shows:
Donor Tear Down http://youtu.be/7SO6gD0-mGI
Donor Viking Funeral http://youtu.be/J01x9iJyc4o

[Brando]

You can have mine

Edit: Claimed by Samiam101

[mikeb75]

Left the transmission at AndrewTech for an inspection and LSD install. They split the case and found the gears and synchros were in pretty good shape! Stoked: not bad for 192K.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/transmissionatAT2.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/transmissionatAT3.jpg
Got the reassembled transmission home and spent a day wire wheeling it (crusty)!
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140703_09_22_00_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140704_11_59_16_Pro.jpg
Then taped it up and started painting:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140707_13_34_30_Pro.jpg
So here it is after a can of hi-temp that I had left over and a touch of wrinkle black, just because
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140707_17_15_30_Pro.jpg

[matteo92065]

That looks great!

[Frank818]

I admit, that black is pretty nice!

[mikeb75]

I’ve had the kit home for 4 weeks but with travel for vacation, work and other family obligations I’ve barely had a chance to do anything. Last week I had a feeling of accomplishment putting the 4 plastic end caps in the square holes on the frame… lame.
Making progress on the firewall has been 1 step forward, 2 steps back with measuring, drilling, cleaning, painting, having the wrong size Clekos, drilling into the frame, re-measuring and re-drilling some holes.
Finally getting to riveting… the Harbor Freight air tool works well:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140708_15_08_52_Pro.jpg
And the wife was not impressed when she saw where I left one of the child-seats to get it out of the way; but it does solve the cup-holder dilemma 
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140708_15_09_18_Pro.jpg

[sponaugle]

Nice. I like the seats. ;)

[mikeb75]

Since my donor was more rust than car I have a lot of hardware I need to replace. Finding the names/part numbers has been a bit challenging, so here are guides for the front and rear suspension including diagrams, part numbers and the numbers of each I estimate are needed based on the 818 assembly manual.

front suspension:
http://1drv.ms/1oCij8V

rear suspension:
http://1drv.ms/1mJmkeE

[mikeb75]

Got the front suspension assembled (after I paid $150 for new hardware… yay me). Had a small issue with one of the upper ball joints; after I aligned the cotter-pin hole it twisted while torqueing the castle nut. I damaged the threads on the stud while trying to relocate the hole and had to take the entire assembly apart and do some Dremel re-profiling and now everything looks happy. Don’t know why the threaded shaft spun, but don’t do what I did. Just remove the upper A-arm and pop the ball joint shaft out and relocate it –saves a lot of time and pain.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140712_21_34_07_Pro.jpg

Good bye Godspeed red (blaugh)
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140711_15_19_58_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140712_13_30_20_Pro.jpg

Currently Rasmusing the outer front CV joint… taking a while with a 3” cutoff disc on air tools.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140714_13_53_32_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

I believe it was described in the 6th circle: taking the flaking paint off a JDM STI v5 intake manifold by hand using sandpaper and a wire wheel. My kingdom for a media cabinet –except I don’t want to pay for it or store it…
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140714_21_33_49_Pro.jpg

And continuing the fight against terminal rust and corrosion
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140716_12_35_32_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140716_13_06_13_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140716_15_24_17_Pro.jpg

Also noted in The Inferno using the proper tool makes a job easier, finished both CV outers using a $15 Harbor Freight angle grinder in about 20 minutes after spending a few hours on it yesterday using an air grinder
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140715_15_22_16_Pro.jpg

Front suspension… is suspending.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140716_15_23_56_Pro.jpg

[Tamra]

Looks good! We are getting ready to start de-rusting our donor parts soon... not looking forward to that.

[mikeb75]

Looks good! We are getting ready to start de-rusting our donor parts soon... not looking forward to that.

Yea, its a bit of a pain. Absolutely recommend the Bucket Of Doom method described by others on this forum. Wish it worked on de-painting also !

[mikeb75]

Should be getting the engine here next week for compression/leak-down testing and (crosses-fingers) installation. Work on de-corroding and cleaning continues:

Starter –reassembling the motor was anti-fun. Much easier when the brushes can be accessed from outside
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140720_12_55_16_Pro.jpg

Drive shafts – nasty. But Brakleen is absolute magic
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140721_18_33_44_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140722_15_52_27_Pro.jpg

Don’t think Evaporust is going to fix this…
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140721_18_33_50_Pro.jpg

Alternator – reassembly of the armature was a lot easier than the starter since the brushes could be locked from the outside, but getting everything lined up so it spins freely took a little time
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140722_12_51_52_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140724_09_44_41_Pro.jpg

Intake– almost done, probably another few hours of prep
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140723_20_06_37_Pro.jpg

[metalmaker12]

I would have blasted that for ya for the price of shipping.

[mikeb75]

I would have blasted that for ya for the price of shipping.

I may have to take you up on the offer next time! (thanks!) but for now I will suffer for my art :)

[bompus]

Better than my intake.. I had an "affordable" powder coating shop in Phoenix blast my intake and coat it.. It looks great apart from the 200-300 plastic blasting beads that I had to get out of it using a pressure washer with the nozzle shoved into every vacuum port I could find to get them all out. I don't know what they were thinking when they decided to bead blast it :(

Back on topic.. your parts look great and are coming along.. keep up the good work :)

[mikeb75]

Engine delivery is going to be delayed until weekend because of scheduling issues. Pedal box assembly is having a touch of trouble from clearance of the master cylinders to the firewall and frame, so have to wait on another clutch master… and figure out where to remote mount the reservoirs.

So I jumped ahead in the manual and started doing the side aluminum. It’s a lot of work to get everything lined up, drilled, painted, re-drilled, hung, and looking correct before riveting and putting down silicone, but it feels really good to make some progress on a bit item. Starting to look like a real cockpit!
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140728_17_33_27_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140728_18_06_11_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140728_20_59_57_Pro.jpg

I need to touch up the paint on the panels and I’ll probably paint the rivets also and planning to put some grip tape on the dead pedal area but really happy with how it came out, feels quite solid.
Once I get all the panels done I’ll apply some GTSpec LiquiDamp to the outside.

[Frank818]

I was actually looking for some close up pix of that area, you are posting just at the right time!

[mikeb75]

I was actually looking for some close up pix of that area, you are posting just at the right time!

glad I could help. I'd recommend test fitting everything before painting. I missed the smallest inset panel the first time and had to go back & refit/paint.

[Frank818]

Yeah, test fitting, also to make sure all is ok before you rivet! And I riveted the side panels already. I see the small coolant tube cover slides under the side panel and dead pedal box. My dead pedal is not riveted, but my side panel is! And in the manual, they are using a different part and no coolant tube cover, so I wasn't aware of that one until I saw your pix! That's why I said you were posting at the right (almost loll) time. I guess I missed a manual update or something, or just forgot to read the one with the side panels update (if any). I will rivet the coolant tube cover on top of the side panel, then. Certainly no major issue there.

[GUNS]

Looking good!

[mikeb75]

Frank, don't think there was a manual update for this style coolant tube cover; at least none that I saw. I just got lucky since I had the parts clamped and Cleko'd in place and had a big hole where the covers went. I dove through my aluminum panel box and found the covers and said aloud -guess those go in the hole... before driving rivets. Was ][ that close to doing what you did. You could drill out a few rivets at the bottom and work the cover under the dead pedal box

Thanks GUNS. The drivers side came out good (almost), but the passenger side didn't line up quite as well... and now I get to spend a day fixing paint issues :)

[GUNS]

yea I got lucky with the coolant cover as well. It was by looking at a build thread like this where I saw it and luckily it was before I began riveting. Like you, both sides of mine turned out pretty good, but one side is a little better than the other. Doubt you'll notice when all is said and done. Keep up the good work.

[mikeb75]

Finished paint correction on the aluminum parts and applied GTSoundControl Liqui-Damp that I found from a recommendation on this site; so here is a quick review.

Coverage: This is some thick stuff. Easy to get coverage on the aluminum panels. 1 quart is more than enough to do the front firewall and side panels with 2 coats.

Application: Use in a well-ventilated area -still dealing with being high. Cleans up easy with paper towel and alcohol.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140731_10_09_28_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140731_10_35_14_Pro.jpg

I put a two light coats on the side panels and two heavier coats on the front firewall. Mostly concerned with noise and heat intrusion from the front of the car, so that’s why I focused on the front panels. It’s actually a bit of a dense product when being applied; but I am willing to add the mass to get a bit more comfort. I’ll be interested to see if it addresses heat from the radiator well –I’m a bit temperature sensitive; I’ve had to cut short a few track sessions because of overheating (I’d overheat not the car).

[mikeb75]

I’ve had a bit of a dilemma on what to do about the front brakes; I found a used set of Wilwood superlites on a forum with no instructions and they’re not a current product, but the price was right. After rebuilding them I’ve been looking for a set of rotors to run. Part of me wanted 2 piece for the light weight, but I couldn’t find a set larger than 12” with the correct bolt pattern. I want to maximize the front rotor size, if not for weight purposes for thermal capacity.

Finally I stopped trying and spent some time on the summit racing website. I found a set of rotors with the correct bolt pattern that were 12.7”. Unfortunately they’re EBC –I’m no fan of their pads, but I figured how bad could they mess up rotors… I know, don’t ask questions you don’t want answer to.

Received them today and slapped them up front to make sure my measurements weren’t too far off. Looks like the clearances are good, and they look pretty badass up there:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140731_12_55_03_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140731_12_55_17_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140731_12_55_25_Pro.jpg

[Frank818]

The rotors are sick. :)

How many quarts you think you may need for front FW, side panels, front hood, front fenders, rear deck lid, rear trunk lid, rear bumper and rear fenders, all that with 3 coats?
I think 5 quarts won't be enough.

What are those purple markings on your LCA near the big bushing?

[metalmaker12]

That's a pink quality check mark from the factory

[Frank818]

I didn't have these marks. Maybe mines are of no quality and will break on the first bump. :)

[mikeb75]

Frank, I have about 1/2 of the quart left after doing the front and sides with 2 coats. I have no idea how much would be needed to cover the inside fiberglass, hadn't considered doing that since I don't think the Liquid-Damp is very weatherproof.

I'm actually quite pleased with the rotors, they look more evil than the DBA's on my STI.

[Frank818]

The rotors look like your avatar. :)

Probably 3-4 quarts can do the whole car, but I wasn't aware of the waterproof thing. I may use something else in some areas, then.

[mikeb75]

Got the Wilwood firewall attach pedal box and master cylinders finalized today, not without a bit of struggle. I bought combination reservoir masters for the brakes and a smaller integral reservoir master for the clutch, but there were interference issues with all the reservoirs. The combo reservoirs didn’t clear the firewall; the integral reservoir did, but the filler cap was un-removable because of interference with the frame. Definitely not to plan.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140727_09_43_34_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140726_21_57_51_Pro.jpg

So a third combo reservoir was ordered and I would run all three reservoirs remote; there must be enough room up there for them –there’s no engine to get in the way!
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140801_15_14_56_Pro.jpg

Then I found that the threaded shafts for the masters were way too long –couldn’t install them on the pedals and have a reasonable resting position. I’m short(ish), but not 4’ short so modifications were required. I had a very uncomfortable feeling as I was cutting $240 worth of hardware, but cut I did.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140801_15_59_42_Pro.jpg

Now it has some show, time to get started on the go.

[mikeb75]

Ok, getting spooked here. The donor car has 192K miles and looked like a warmed over corpse. The engine is NOT in pretty shape on the outside, but just finished the compression test:

1: 162
2: 158
3: 150
4: 160
Was the donor’s name Nosferatu?

Bolted on the ebay flywheel and now I can get to work refreshing the engine.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140802_14_19_24_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140802_14_46_52_Pro.jpg

FIL was positively shocked; he expected a full rebuild on order
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140802_12_46_33_Pro.jpg

Also test fitting the seat and harness bar/a dummy harness
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140801_17_31_56_Pro.jpg

[apexanimal]

those are great compression numbers

[mikeb75]

Sure, the engine tested well (ok compression-tested well) –but it’s going to take a lot of work before I bolt that into the car… There was so much rust and corrosion and old oil that I figured a teardown was in order.
I’ll keep the heads on and the block won’t be split; other than that game on!

I admit I’ve never done this before
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140803_10_25_13_Pro.jpg

I’m pretty sure there was a mouse nest in there before I got started
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140803_10_27_18_Pro.jpg

Making some progress
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140803_11_10_16_Pro.jpg

At least the inside looks clean
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140804_13_30_33_Pro.jpg

Wire wheeled and sanded
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140804_19_19_05_Pro.jpg

Base coat
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140805_08_46_17_Pro.jpg

And done, wrinkle black that no one will ever see
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140806_08_23_55_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

That needs to be replaced
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140805_11_06_58_Pro.jpg

Not too bad in here, but all this needs to go. I want to pull the oil ‘cooler’ also, but I think I’ll leave it until after the car is built and the shake down runs are complete. I have a plan.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140806_08_24_05_Pro.jpg

KillerB Motorsports Oil Pickup & STI baffle. Cleaned and polished the gasket mating surface
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140806_11_35_13_Pro.jpg

Some local shop (which will remain nameless) banged the hell out of my STI oil pan when they were removing it (to install a Killer B on my STI). I pounded the outer lip back flat and cleaned the remaining gasket material with a wire wheel then cleaned out the pan with solvent.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140806_13_44_30_Pro.jpg

All done? Guess I should hit it with some paint.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140806_14_06_09_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Completed building the drive shafts –no pictures! No helper available and having both hands covered with RedLine CV grease does not make me want to stop and shoot pictures.

After the drive shafts were assembled I hung the rear suspension and assembled the H6 brake brackets and test hung a wheel… and yes I’ll be buying spacers for the rear. Anyone considering the Godspeed rear trailing arms should be aware (again, others have said the same thing) that you get less clearance than the stock ones. For me it wasn’t really a choice since my trailing arms were a bit destroyed when we removed them from the donor.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140807_20_51_52_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140808_09_43_39_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140808_10_09_02_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140808_10_31_41_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Got the value covers and installed and replaced the gaskets. Also put on engine mounts (yes, they are backwards in the picture -fixed now). So far so good.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140808_15_21_29_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140808_15_21_34_Pro.jpg

FIL was working on replacing water & oil pumps and timing belt when it all went to crap. Crankshaft sprocket wouldn’t come off without persuasion –said persuasion took some of the timing teeth off said crankshaft sprocket… but we really weren’t willing to leave the oil pump unchanged. Then when trying to remove the crankshaft position sensor from the old oil pump it got a bit broken also…
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140809_19_03_58_Pro.jpg

To console ourselves while waiting on ebay to deliver replacements the fuel tank was assembled and installed and I finished the intake plenum. Amazing what some paint stripper can do.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140809_18_41_55_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140810_12_23_11_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140811_10_34_21_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Getting the steering linkage finalized was quite an ordeal. First I over-shortened the column… my excuse is I did a heavy arms workout that morning and didn’t realize how hard I was hitting the bottom of the column with a dead-blow hammer… well it’s an excuse anyway. Spent some time (and had help from the brain-trust on this forum) figuring out a way to de-compress the column. It’s a lot easier if you don’t make this mistake in the first place.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140828_17_31_57_Pro.jpg
(kinky)

Finally got the column back to a correct length and tried to replace the loosy-goosy WRX steering coupler with an STI one, but the steering rack input shaft was nowhere close to the size of the STI coupler union. After trying to spread the union end for an hour I finally grabbed an angle grinder and made some ‘adjustments’ to the rack input shaft. There was no way that was going on the union –ever.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140828_17_50_20_Pro.jpg
This doesn’t really show the degree of adjustment needed to the rack input shaft, but where the bolt goes in the union I had to relief cut out of the input shaft. And no, I’m really really don’t ever want to take that off again.

A couple of 2” bolts, a stack of spacers and new holes drilled in the frame plate and I’m pretty happy with where the wheel sits now.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140828_17_50_09_Pro-1.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140828_17_50_02_Pro.jpg

[Frank818]

Your pedal covers are mirror finished?

[mikeb75]

Your pedal covers are mirror finished?

Looks like it. Guess I'm going to cover them with grip-tape

[Frank818]

Your column spacers are much longer than FFR's, I realized I needed to drop the column lower than FFR recommendation so I will use more spacers in there as well. How tall are you?

[mikeb75]

Not tall: 5'7". I didn't expect to be worried about legroom, but with the provided gas tank I actually had to sweat it (a bit)

I stacked a 1" spacer over the ones F5 provided. Glad I kept the steering column tilt function: I like the wheel a bit low but getting in/out is tough with a 300mm wheel. Raising the tilt gives me enough room to get out, and dropping it once seated feels correct.

[Frank818]

5'6" down here, so that might explain why we both lowered our column.

I also have a 300mm s/w and found out that if I use too long spacers it was quite difficult to get out. I made a small compromise and my mock-up is a little higher, but with my s/w the bottom is curved upwards (inwards to the center), which gives even more space than a D-shape s/w. And yes, I also rise the tilt when I get out and lower it back after I get in. Looks like we found pretty much the same solutions/habits, might be to consider for anyone around our heights.

[mikeb75]

...Looks like we found pretty much the same solutions/habits, might be to consider for anyone around our heights.

Agreed. Like I said, I was pretty shocked how tight the drivers compartment is using the stock fuel tank. I think the wilwood pedals make it a bit worse -I think they protrude further thank the OEMs (at least mine do until I get the throw trimmed out with the actual braking system installed). I can't imagine how anyone taller than 6' is going to be comfortable as the kit ships (and I've been following all the build threads, especially the 'wookie' builds).

That said, I mocked up the shifter and found it at a pretty good height/position without having to underhang mount it in the center tunnel like I've seen in other builds. The shift leaver is a few inches from the steering wheel in 1st position and the height is just under the midline of the wheel when lowered.

[mikeb75]

First part of the added rear-firewall I’m working on is a piece of .090 Al with insulation on the inside riveted to the frame behind the fuel tank.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140830_12_19_38_Pro.jpg

With the clearance issues between the rear wheels and the GodSpeed trailing arms I had bought a set of 8mm spacers. They gave good clearance, but the studs were not long enough to get good engagement with the lugs (1-2 threads max). I found a set of 40mm studs on ebay that seemed to fit the bill (didn’t want to go with a crazy long set of 3” ARPs). After cutting out the wheel speed sensor ring (not going to need it since I’m not planning to run traction control) there was enough clearance to push out the old studs and insert the new ones without disassembling the hub. There were also 50mm length studs available that may have been installable the same way, but these were ‘easy’ and the 40mm length is good enough for now.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/V__490F.jpg

I’m travelling next week (business); but after that I should be home with a bit of comp time and hopefully FIL will have been able to finish the motor refresh so we can try to make some real progress

[mikeb75]

Now I remember that thing I wanted to do before I installed the rear gas tank firewall… the brake lines. Ideally the brake lines should have been run ‘in front’ of that firewall to keep them out from directly in front of the engine. Since I installed the lower gas tank rear firewall rather permanently I had to go about this a different way; I pulled the gas tank and routed the lines.

For now the lines are just roughed in with tape to make sure everything is happy. Until the engine is installed and clearance is verified I'm not going to attach them

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_15_09_51_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_15_09_57_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_15_10_04_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_15_10_18_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_14_07_01_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140910_13_58_56_Pro.jpg

BTW this is another of those things I’ve never done before; if you have critiques/advise I’d be very grateful.

[mikeb75]

I’ve managed to complete the cooling loop rebuild, installed the alternator and wrapped the exhaust header… so that’s some progress 
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140926_13_41_30_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140924_13_20_47_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140919_14_23_49_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140924_14_27_51_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140924_16_01_37_Pro.jpg

However, I’ve not completed the engine as I’d hoped: the intake manifold & engine wiring harness has been fighting every step. I’d planned to replace the WRX stock intake manifold with a JDM STI long runner manifold, and my lesson is that cheaper isn’t always better.

We picked up a JDM STI manifold from a forum, but it’s apparently a v5 or v6 manifold (I didn’t buy it…). There are enough differences that this is becoming quite an adventure. The injector connections are different between the two models (expected) and the entire throttle bodies are different (not expected).
I tore down the engine wiring harness to remove the TGV sensors and leads, and have now spliced in the injector harnesses from the JDM unit on to the WRX one.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140918_001.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140926_15_13_07_Pro-1.jpg

Next problem is mating the WRX throttle body to the manifold; they are significantly different, especially on the mating surface between the TB and the manifold.
Originally I'd hoped to be able to use the JDM TB; but the connections are completely different between the v5/6 TB and the later TB designs. By my thinking the easiest fix is going to be buying a TB spacer to give a few mm clearance for the idle control valve and deal with the pressure sensor routing that isn't present on the JDM TB.

If I can get this last issue addressed I may have enough of an engine to install in the car, which would be a really nice milestone to hit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20140924_16_01_37_Pro.jpg


Mike
Most your stuff looks great. But that exhaust manifold is going to drag the ground.
Sorry
Bob

[mikeb75]

Damn. No need to apologize Bob! Taking another look now that the engine is coming together it definitely looks like the collector & down bend of cyl 2&4 will be dragging. Serves me right for using an el-cheap-o ebay header. Hopefully next week I'll know for sure, but it looks like I'll be shopping for a replacement (the donor parts were UGLY and tossed long ago). I've used ported/polished & coated OEM headers on my WRX, but they're so heavy...

I don't recommend the ebay header route. It took a lot of adjustment to fit it to the exhaust ports (never a good thing). The flanges were almost 1" too wide, so we used a come-along to pull it back in-line. The tube walls are pretty thin, the welds are actually OK, except for the tightest radius turn from cyl 1&3 to the up-pipe, that whole area is suspect.

[mikeb75]

Finally got the last of the parts I needed to mate the WRX throttle body with the JDM STI manifold. Even better, WTFBBQ it adds horsepowah!!! I though only stickers could deliver this kind of performance increase:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141001_15_19_15_Pro.jpg

I needed to fab a small aluminum plate to cover part of the JDM STI TB bypass; hopefully the extra gasket and RTV holds or I’m going to be learning to weld aluminum.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141001_21_25_17_Pro.jpg

The top of the engine is pretty much done now; sensors and controls are wired, fuel rails are done. Just need to complete vacuum, coolant and fuel plumbing. Getting so close to being able to drop the engine in...
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141002_14_32_30_Pro.jpg
New headers showed up, so they're installed and wrapped and hopefully good to go (as long as the slip joint doesn't leak)
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141004_12_23_34_Pro-1.jpg

[Frank818]

This is the black widow engine. :)

[mikeb75]

I decided before installing the engine I need to complete the seat bracket & anti-intrusion panel I want on the floor. I have 1x2 steel tube (same wall thickness as the main frame tubes) that I’ve cut to size. I tacked them into position and then tried to weld them in place… 
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141009_14_55_02_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141009_15_28_25_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141009_15_28_18_Pro.jpg

Never welded before today -Interesting skill. Was using flux core; the welds were pretty ugly and I kept losing sight of the butt seams, but after two rounds of weld, clean, grind and re-weld I’ve to the tops to where I want them. I think I got pretty good penetration but I took my grinder and made everything flush because I am putting a 1/8 steel plate over the X and rails so serve as bottom protection.

Next I’ll tip the frame and try to do a better job on the other 3 sides of the rails (FIL bringing over a MIG to try) and the plates.

[mikeb75]

Finished welding the braces and the anti-intrusion floor pans, did not go exactly to plan (go figure). Welds looked bad but seem solid enough and had good penetration to the metal.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141011_16_58_21_Pro.jpg

But we did finally drop the engine into the frame; yay. Had to take header off to have clearance and dinged the powder-coat in 1 place.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141011_18_02_41_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141011_18_03_02_Pro.jpg

But the engine is in the frame :D

A couple of days more to clean up some under car bits and install details and this chassis might be a roller... but finishing the OEM harness is taking quite a while.

[mikeb75]

The intake manifold is just the gift that keeps on giving… Having used the spacer to seat the throttle body caused the A2A IC to not fit (either the stock WRX or the STI one I want to use) and both Y-pipes don’t line up to the turbo… and the throttle cable isn’t even close. And YAY; the VF39 is having interference issues with the shock tower brace.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/WP_20141025_17_46_05_Pro.jpg

So a new ebay aftermarket TB is in the house. This was probably the right way to go; it looks like it was cut from a piece of billet and has a flat back-plane, even with the IACV motor attached. Looks pretty good for $80.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141102_13_08_44_Pro.jpg

Need to find a slightly longer silicone 90 elbow to connect the turbo to the Y-pipe; or may need a bunch more depending on our final mounting solution. Right now looks like it should fit in the FFR recommended location and leave just enough room for a top plenum.

To deal with the waste gate interference issue… we’re taking a radical approach; but not cutting on the brace. I’ve never been confident –given my rank amateur welding ability- that modifying the tower brace would be a good idea. First thought was to shorten the up-pipe 1” to gain clearance; but that invites a host of other issues since we’re reusing the turbo brackets.

Now, we’re attempting to modify the VF39 WG actuator. The goal is to shorten the actuator standoff and modify the actuator rod and mounting to gain about ½” of clearance. We did check how much engine movement we can expect (remember –we’ve installed Torque Solution engine and transmission mounts). Jacking under the oil pan or engine resulted is the whole chassis being lifted before there was any movement of the engine. I think this is promising at least as far as controlling the engine movement is concerned .

So we’re doing an experiment in turning a $600 part into a $1200 part. If the modification fails we’ll be welding the WG shut and paying for an external waste gate up-pipe and actuator.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/V__1FCD.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/V__69BB.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/V__E810.jpg
(stay tuned to see if this one succeeds :P )

A few other odds-n-ends are done: the AI panels are painted, sound-deadener applied to the underside, the lower firewall is attached and the harness fittings are mounted.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141019_15_14_57_Pro.jpg

The coolant tubes are mounted on the engine and the sides. Not really a fan of the over-under snaking of the flex line… might have to do something about that in the future.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141031_17_53_21_Pro.jpg

[GUNS]

I had that same thought for harness mounts. I'm probably at a minimum going to do that for the anti-sub belts. I'm debating using the supplied seat mounts as belt mounts. Your solution is probably the best/lightest.

[MrDude_1]

I love your wastegate "experiment". It is exactly what I thought of when I first looked at the picture.
That said.... I probably would have cut the up-pipe to be a little shorter. But I love what you're doing there.

[mikeb75]

I agree, moving the turbo down would be a 'better' solution. I think the clearance between the shock tower brace isn't enough. I've looked at taking it apart and re-welding the cross bar in 1" higher... but again poor welding skills and that is a lot of re-manufacturing. A larger turbo is going to be difficult in the stock location.

Unfortunately, moving the turbo down via shortening the up-pipe just isn't a simple thing:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141027_11_56_03_Pro-1.jpg

As the turbo moves 'down' it also moves forward (since the up-pipe is slanted). That creates interference issues with the compressor side and the engine block ...and the intake path ...and the turbo mounts. With the restrictions In the WRX the turbo location & up-pipe are required, but it's a less than optimal solution. Because of budget & build restrictions the 818 has the same limitations -if you go the 'easy' stock way... but if you're willing to think outside the box... interesting alternatives become possible (all limited by skill and $$$).

If (when) the engine goes; an interesting experiment would be to get the dimensions and mounting requirements of the forester turbo diesel FA20DIT or the FA20 out of the BRZ... that's a really interesting engine/platform (but still quite new).
http://clicccar.com/wp-content/uploads/FA20DIT.jpg

[Mechie3]

Someone on here had notched out that cross brace to fit a larger turbo. It's one of a few spots I wish FFR had designed in a little bit of headroom. I don't remember off hand, but there's a few more spots where you're pretty much locked into a singular solution without major fab work even though it's an area where builders are likely to want to experiment.

[MrDude_1]

Looks to me like you might just want to build that last piece from flange to flange again.. similar to how this guy did it:
http://www.raktron.com/wrx/uppipe.html

If you doubt your welding skill, you could always tack it how you need it, then have someone with more experience weld it tight for you.

[STiPWRD]

Mike, sorry to hear about the set backs. I'm running a bigger internally waste-gated turbo as well. If I end up having clearance issues I will most likely notch the upper strut support brace and reinforce it with some welded plates. In the end, I think this provide the greatest amount of clearance around the turbo with fewest ripple effects.

[mikeb75]

Turbo’s coming along at FIL’s house, so in the mean time I needed to move the chassis around in the garage. Riveted on the bottom Al panel, buttoned up the back of the car, put trans fluid in, slapped on the rear tires and dropped it. I didn’t quite realize just how low the car would sit… A six year old high.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141111_16_21_36_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141111_17_22_26_Pro.jpg

Relocated in the garage I have room to work on the front crash box, radiator, etc. The radiator attachment was a bit tricky, using a different (older spec) model so some custom fabbing was required; but it’s in properly so I can finish running the lines and the shifter cables.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141112_13_54_52_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141112_13_55_02_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141113_13_42_25_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141113_14_25_39_Pro.jpg

Next up … wiring harness <shudder>.

[K3LAG]

The height, or lack there of, is a little startling the first time you take it down off the dolly or jack stands. We did that last Friday night and our immediate reaction was 'Wow, this thing is low.'

Larry

[Frank818]

I have the same rad and I think your rad supports are absolutely genius considering you did not machine the supports! I should have thought about that, I consider myself stupid now that I have seen your pictures, thanks to you, plz continue that way. lolll

[mikeb75]

No genius here; just proof that if you stare at a problem long enough a solution drops into your lap. Note the abundance of 'speed holes' as I worked out the solution...

Used 16mm M10 bolts, nuts & washers to attach the OEM top mounts to the radiator support braces; a touch of adjustment with a BFG corrected the angle and voilà; radiator mounts to attach with the rivnuts to the crash box.

[mikeb75]

Yes, you can shorten the waste gate shaft on a VF39 and get (almost) enough clearance to the strut tower brace.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141115_11_28_23_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141115_11_29_49_Pro.jpg
Modifying the turbo was surprisingly easy; after cutting off the top by removing the weld with a Dremel the waste gate shaft drops slightly –which just happens to be almost exactly the thickness of the actuator arm. After taping the waste gate closed and marking the cut off height on the shafts (again with tape), cut across with the Dremel and voila; both shafts are re-sized and the correct height difference between inner and outer shafts to reattach the actuator arm.

With the super stiff engine mounts and offsetting the actuator arm in front of the strut brace the clearance should be enough; running OEM engine mounts… not sure that will be enough.

[mikeb75]

In jest I’m going to name this car “Glacier” because of all the time we’ve spent going two steps backwards for every step forward…

Worked more on getting the modified turbo situated. After finishing modifying the wastegate actuator (and learning how it works) we were close to plumbing the turbo… until we saw that we had a tear in the turbo inlet pipe… and had lost the MAF and airbox during disassembly. Nothing a couple of bucks and ebay couldn’t fix
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141123_12_21_37_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141123_12_21_22_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141201_15_19_51_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141201_15_41_37_Pro.jpg

Slowly the wiring is starting to take shape. The external fuse box is mounted up front behind where the radiator will be. I’ve already spliced in the extensions for the alternator leads, just waiting for some additional split loom to cover it before I finalize the install there -and figure out how to include the master switch.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141124_13_57_34_Pro.jpg

[Tamra]

Wow, the clearance issues on the turbo are terrifying, esp considering that is an OEM turbo. We are going to have to figure out a solution for ours, since it is significantly larger...

Otherwise, looking great! How long do you think until first start?

[Mechie3]

It's an OEM turbo, but not from any one of the specified "good" donor cars. That said, it is a little frustrating that there's several spots where FFR designed in a single solution and anything beyond that requires much more fab work than if they had added 1/2" extra clearance by altering a design slightly.

[RM1SepEx]

With the movement I observed in a short go kart test I'm thinking under load you could have the stock turbo hit the brace. I've went to Custco mounts hoping it will make a big diff in movement. I now have a turbo blanket and your heat shield installed and the clearance is virtually zero. Fingers crossed

[mikeb75]

Yea, a bit more clearance on the rear tower brace would have been very nice. I've looked at disassembling it to move the cross bar up 1/2" and it's outside my fabrication skills. I think someone who is moderately good could do it; but that just ain't me. We'll see if we have enough clearance with the really stiff engine and transmission mounts; will make an interesting video for sure!

Not sure about a timeline for start up - The wiring is coming along pretty well (except for the rats nest that will be living behind the center console) but the cold weather is limiting my time in the garage to work; and the evap controls look to be another show-stopper. We might have trashed something important (and expensive) from the charcoal canister which was unrecoverable.

[Hindsight]

Make it easy on yourself and ditch the entire evap system :)

[mikeb75]

Make it easy on yourself and ditch the entire evap system :)

Want to! but live in peoples republic of MD. Don't think I can street register without it.

[STiPWRD]

I still have most of my evap system and don't plan on using it, right down the road bro

[mikeb75]

Have actually made good progress on situating the wiring harness. The ECU, fuel pump controller, relays and engine harness are in pretty well. The run to the front is laid out and I’ve got the front (internal) fuse box in a pretty good spot (well… I’m happy with it for now).
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_22_24_40_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_22_24_19_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_22_28_09_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_22_28_20_Pro.jpg

It looks like it will tuck up under the dash nicely and still be ‘accessible’ (if I’m willing to do a handstand in the footwell. There is still a big messy bundle that will be hiding behind the center console until after we get the car running and the electrics tested & verified. We were afraid to do much more trimming and I don’t want to pull or cut any more leads until we’re sure the work we’ve done hasn’t killed the harness.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_23_01_40_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_23_01_45_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141204_23_06_01_Pro.jpg
After we get everything started and running & tested I want to go back and splice/re-run each wire to make the rats-nest more manageable.

[mikeb75]

Happy new year & best wishes for 2015! Haven't had much time to work on the car due to travel & holiday with the family, but did steal a few hours on Sunday with FIL to get some tasks complete.

While finalizing the cooling plumbing I actually encountered something that installed easily… because of the weird intake manifold. Where everyone else has to relocate their upper coolant tank it looks like I can install and go :cool:

I have enough room between the tank and the frame to get the cap off and get a funnel in to add coolant (it’s the little things that bring the most happiness…).
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141230_20_31_19_Pro.jpg

Up front finished laying out the path to the radiator, needed a bit more customization… since we’re not using a 2002+ radiator. The inlet and outlets are on the opposite corners, not really a big deal –it was harder to get the radiator installed in the car than to finish the plumbing. However I did pick up a rubber hose with a bunch of bends (I forget who originally listed the part number) to loop over the steering rack. That hose was slightly too large, so we added about 1” of cut pipe to the radiator outlet to make for a tight seal. Now everything looks happy-happy… until we fill the system and find all the leaks I introduced.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150104_14_04_50_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150104_14_56_00_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150104_15_13_23_Pro.jpg

[JeromeS13]

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20141230_20_31_19_Pro.jpg

Double check that reservoir cap. It looks like an OEM radiator cap. If it is, it will not function correctly and will not allow coolant to be drawn back in after the engine cools down.

[mikeb75]

Double check that reservoir cap. It looks like an OEM radiator cap. If it is, it will not function correctly and will not allow coolant to be drawn back in after the engine cools down.

Yes, thanks!! I'll verify; I have the other (front -without tabs) cap sitting on my bench, and probably a third (aftermarket) in my extra parts box.

[mikeb75]

After a long and waaaaay too cold winter to work in the unheated garage it’s time to start getting some work done!

Finished up the brake and clutch lines, including a series of Tee connections at the master cylinders to include some pressure transducers that will eventually be tied into a data logger. Now only need to mount the reservoirs –received the windshield wiper kit over the winter so I can correctly locate the reservoirs now.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150415_20_32_48_Pro.jpg

Picked up a set of LCD gauges from my friend ebay: boost pressure, oil temp & oil pressure for less than $100. I had an old 3 position gauge pod I never installed in the WRX. I figure a little glue and it will look right at home on the dash.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150211_20_18_10_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150227_17_31_45_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150228_16_24_05_Pro.jpg

The pressure transducer is buried in there -bloody thing was huge. Tapped into the second oil gallery plug after a $14 adapter (shipping was more than the part –yay!)
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150403_17_24_14_Pro.jpg

Only about 25 items left on the check list before engine start [:)] [:|] [:(] ...

[mikeb75]

Added a pair of ebay horns from China (really – shipped from China!), Bolted down a small Odyssey battery and have nearly completed the remote reservoir installation –but I don’t plan to trim the feeds until I verify the reservoir location with the body.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150418_16_17_18_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150418_18_12_06_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150418_18_12_14_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

(Should have called last update). Finished up most of the remaining engine bay work: mounted and plumbed AOS & waste-gate solenoid, last of coolant lines, almost all the vac. lines are accounted for, installed the coolmat on the firewall, put the intercooler in place and mocked in the ebay boost pressure sensor. All that is left is finalize the fuel lines and filter.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150426_18_10_08_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150426_18_10_16_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150426_18_10_28_Pro.jpg

Had to get creative with mounting the turn-signal canceling mechanism to the ebay steering wheel boss I had bought. JB Weld… is there anything it can’t do?
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150424_07_54_32_Pro.jpg

Up front I still need to complete the battery, fuse box & fan wiring and get the power and ground set up for the gauges and check for what chassis grounds are missing from the harness.

9 items remain on the start-up list.

[mikeb75]

Finished the start-up list yesterday; oil & coolant are in the car - waiting & looking for leaks.

The electrics are 'finished' - battery is installed and wired. I tested the system and got as far as having the car in the 'on' position before ignition. The fuel pump ran and the fuel level sensor read correctly (bone dry) and no smoke or fires - a successful test in my book.

I attached the AccessPort and successfully communicated with the ECU to read the first codes : TGV sensors... ha, they don't exist anymore !

Working to track down some problems: I'm not getting anything from the 12v @ the cigarette lighter I used to power the gauges and I can't get the ECU into test mode by jumping connecting the 2 green connectors together, so no reflash (the ECU reflash jumper works fine says the AP). I need to trace the test mode wires back to the ECU & check another 12v circuit to make sure it's got power.

I'm not planning to prime the system until I at least get the Oil Pressure gauge working...

[mikeb75]

If you are using an AccessPort or other ECU programming tool that requires the ECU to be put into 'test mode' there are 2 pairs of green connectors to do that.

The first pair is located very close to the 'flash memory' connector.
The second pair is located closer to the ECU and is labeled (on the wiring documents) as Line End Connector.

The first pair traces directly to the second pair - so if both aren't connected no test mode. That figured out I've successfully reflashed the ECU and the AP is communicating properly (verified by testing Throttle Position Sensor on live data screen). So far so good.

Also resolved the power problem with the gauges, I hadn't completely seated the power to fuse block connector AND had the 12v lead in my connector came unconnected after I 'assembled' the whole thing.

Just about ready to start the engine, but I'm going to hold off until FIL can get over here to join the celebration.

[Tamra]

I hope it goes smoothly! Make sure to post a first start video :)

[mikeb75]

Thanks Tamra!

Another note : if you are not using the standard pedals remember to jumper connector B106 the clutch switch [& ignition interlock] (properly :) ); using a paperclip isn't going to do it.

The engine cranks properly; spark plugs have been removed to allow turning the engine over to try to prime the oil and cooling system to find major leaks.

The brakes have been bled, chased a bunch of leaks down there of my own doing (finger tight connectors don't hold pressure). I'm still working with one of the pressure transducers, but everything else seems good now.

This weekend is scheduled to put fuel in it; make sure there are no major leaks and get the engine started. Am so excite!

[mikeb75]

Couple of set backs:

Last weekend boy-child was sick; trumps working on the car :(

This weekend we pressure tested the cooling system and the upper reservoir tank was puking coolant into the overflow tank @ 4 psi. Not good! We thought it might be the seal of the radiator cap, but no that would be way too simple. I grabbed the one off the STI and we had the same issue.
I took a close look at the seat of the coolant tank to see if there was any debris or something that would prevent a good seal. Sure enough, there’s a hairline crack I didn’t notice earlier –that’ll do it.
Replaced the coolant tank with a ‘newer’ plastic one – looks like it belongs there – and problem solved. Holds pressure up to 16 psi.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150519_16_21_30_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150519_15_50_55_Pro.jpg

Really trying to get the engine started soon!

[mikeb75]

it's alive:


https://youtu.be/e1qo0k5_Ai8

I'm pretty amazed it started to soon after cranking the engine over. Franken-zombie lives!

[Frank818]

As you said, wow indeed!

What's that muffler again?

[mikeb75]

Frank, as requested the rice-boy muffler:
Universal N1 Stainless Steel Carbon Black 3 Inlet 4 Inch Outlet Muffler
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9J753Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(hard to beat the price)

[Tamra]

Congrats! It sounds great!!!!

[mikeb75]

Thanks!

Am chasing a few leaks, down to 1 at the cat to muffler junction. Then some paint and wrap and the exhaust is a done deal. Was amazed that FIL could get the bung in place for the rear O2 sensor, he had to profile it with a grinders, but it's in a perfect spot now -and no O2 sensor CELs

Actually, the only CEL's I've seen are expected ones: TGVs, and Evap controls. Just amazed considering how much mis-match there is.

After I get the exhaust finalized I'll be purging the cooling system/testing the fans, testing the alternator (the battery voltage was a bit low via the AccessPort live monitoring), and cleaning up the wiring harness/ interior. Then time for the maiden drive (not going to count reversing into the garage).

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start!!!

[metros]

Nice work! Think of all the things that had to go right to get to this point.

[STiPWRD]

Congrats Mike! Just in time for summer

[mikeb75]

same muffler, less baffle :

https://youtu.be/15yHVRfgTik

I think it sounds a ton better, like it wants to eat small furry woodland creatures, or domestics :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Couple of set backs:

Last weekend boy-child was sick; trumps working on the car :(

This weekend we pressure tested the cooling system and the upper reservoir tank was puking coolant into the overflow tank @ 4 psi. Not good! We thought it might be the seal of the radiator cap, but no that would be way too simple. I grabbed the one off the STI and we had the same issue.
I took a close look at the seat of the coolant tank to see if there was any debris or something that would prevent a good seal. Sure enough, there’s a hairline crack I didn’t notice earlier –that’ll do it.
Replaced the coolant tank with a ‘newer’ plastic one – looks like it belongs there – and problem solved. Holds pressure up to 16 psi.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150519_16_21_30_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150519_15_50_55_Pro.jpg

Really trying to get the engine started soon!

This whole process sounds familiar ;) Good upgrade!


Congrats on the start, Mike. Sounds great without the baffle!

[Frank818]

37 bucks for a muffler... no comment. :)

[Frank818]

same muffler, less baffle :

https://youtu.be/15yHVRfgTik

I think it sounds a ton better, like it wants to eat small furry woodland creatures, or domestics :)

I really really like that sound, especially when you give it gas. Do you know how much louder than other people's mufflers around here it may sound like?
I wonder how that muffler, or 2 of them in-line, would sound on my VR6...

Remind me, you got a 2.0L or 2.5L?

[mikeb75]

yay, go karting! (actually been lapping the neighborhood since the weekend when it isn't raining). Lots of details to address and hard to make a judgment on handling/braking, but damnation that's fun!


https://youtu.be/Iwbd7m7hcLg

Frank, sorry, didn't see your questions:

It's a 2L (all EJ20x's are 2L, all EJ25x's are 2.5L).

Can't really tell loudness versus other videos, too many variables. I'll try to get a SPL test on my phone to test and let you know. I get the feeling this can is going to be pretty f-ing loud without the baffle, even with the cat.

[AZPete]

I LOVE go-kart videos! It's a big milestone and a big smile to see it finally go, turn and stop. Mike, I noticed no fires, no leaks and no tow straps so Congrats.
I also noticed you are driving as cautiously around the 'hood as I have been driving my go-kart . . . like guys with no insurance yet. :eek:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

yay, go karting! (actually been lapping the neighborhood since the weekend when it isn't raining). Lots of details to address and hard to make a judgment on handling/braking, but damnation that's fun!

https://youtu.be/Iwbd7m7hcLg
Frank, sorry, didn't see your questions:
It's a 2L (all EJ20x's are 2L, all EJ25x's are 2.5L).
Can't really tell loudness versus other videos, too many variables. I'll try to get a SPL test on my phone to test and let you know. I get the feeling this can is going to be pretty f-ing loud without the baffle, even with the cat.

Mike
I love the g force indicators on the front bar. Please put some thicker fluid in one of them to make it easier to read.
Congrats
Bob

[metros]

Congrats on the milestone!

[mikeb75]

I LOVE go-kart videos! It's a big milestone and a big smile to see it finally go, turn and stop. Mike, I noticed no fires, no leaks and no tow straps so Congrats.
I also noticed you are driving as cautiously around the 'hood as I have been driving my go-kart . . . like guys with no insurance yet. :eek:

No fire, the most important criteria! Had 2 fire bottles handy during startup. And I actually drive like that around the neighborhood in all the cars... lots of kids and pets. Drives me to the brink of rage-MDK whenever someone blazes through the neighborhood.


Mike
I love the g force indicators on the front bar. Please put some thicker fluid in one of them to make it easier to read.
Congrats
Bob

I can try packing the clutch reservoir with Vaseline, but not sure that's the right way to go about fixing clutch chatter :p

'common Metros, join us!

[Tamra]

Congratulations on the milestone!! That looked like a very successful drive!

I love your video summary:
Idle is high, alignment is off, steering is not centered, brakes don't (not bedded), throttle is very -er surgey, oil is weeping from the filter block.

What a rush

For idle, check that the cable isn't being pulled slightly (assuming yours is cable).
Your alignment didn't look bad from the drivers perspective. On our first go-kart, it was so bad I was sawing back and forth at the wheel going 5mph trying to keep it straight!
Our throttle is still very surge-y. Not sure if there is a solution.

The rush won't wear off. Every time I drive ours (heck every time I start it) I just get the biggest grin plastered across my face :)

[mikeb75]

I had figured out the source of the oil leak a few weeks ago; the oil pan was seeping from the gasket. Apparently I used the wrong material to seal the pan to the bottom of the engine –it never fully set or the oil partially dissolved it.

Took the pan off, cleaned everything up with acetone and re-set it using RTV black (maximum oil resistance !). I got that done just before leaving for a week of holiday and a week in Paris for business; so the RTV had proper time to set up.

While we had the car up I pulled off the water jacket oil cooler, plugged the lines from the water pump and the block and installed an oil filter relocation plate (thanks Scargo for the discussion a while back). Fabbed up new lines from -10AN, first time using it –lovely stuff, very easy to work with.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150619_13_49_53_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150619_14_17_58_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150619_16_16_05_Pro.jpg

I haven’t installed an oil cooler yet, I’ll plumb that in after I get some data about temperatures and available space. (I did put insulation on both lines to and from the filter replacement block). After filling the oil pan, pressurizing the system and running some shake down neighborhood laps - no leaks !!

Also I had completed some more of the interior; especially mounting the kill switch and brake bias adjuster. I need to do some slight adjustment to the mounting position of the center console after I install the dash panel; the kill switch is just at my fingertips when I’m fully strapped into the seat. I’ll pull the entire panel backwards towards me less than 1 inch.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150605_16_15_24_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150605_18_02_50_Pro.jpg

Just finished scheduling the mechanical pre-tune inspection and tune sessions at the end of the month. The garage I prefer (AndrewTech Automotive) will confirm the mechanicals/engine to verify no vacuum, fluid or exhaust leaks before the tune session. They’ll also perform an alignment while the car is there. Then a dyno tune will be performed around the corner at TurboXS. I’ve never worked with them before (always used canned maps with an AccessPort), but AT recommended them. I am looking forward to seeing what the Franken-Engine puts down.

So, while I’m waiting I need to figure out what to do next… Manual indicates body work fitting. On the one hand I do want to start that; on the other I don’t really want to get too far so I still have access to all the mechanicals - especially during the inspection.
Since I’ll be taking delivery of the hard top (probably in) August I’ll be leaving the windscreen, hood and engine covers unmounted.

[Tamra]

That's all looking great!

How did you decide on the location of the kill switch? I'm not well versed in the rules yet, but I thought in some instances they had to be on the exterior of the car?

[mikeb75]

Tamra, I always planned to have the switch within drivers arms reach (ha... almost). Either on the dash to the left of the wheel so a corner worker could also reach in easily, or in the center of the car. Seeing that other builds have the switch in the center and looking at how I ran the starter wire (down the center) and the order of the build (don't think I'll get the dash in place for a while yet) I was pretty much limited to the center.

I'll add a secondary pull outside the car, probably on the passenger side of the windscreen. Plavan's build gives a really good example of how to do this with a wire pull.

[mikeb75]

No, your car makes your trailer look big –err that isn’t how the joke goes…
Tomorrow should be fun, getting the car mechanically inspected and ready for the dyno. Loading was interesting; just lined the wheels up, grinned and gunned it. For now it’s a trailer queen.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/053.jpg

[mikeb75]

Just heard from the shop; the pre-dyno inspection is done. There were 3 issues:


ICAV was seized. This was the cause of the poor/surging idle as the ECU was deactivating one cylinder to keep the hot idle in check. Pulled, disassembled, cleaned, lubed & reinstalled. Fixed; now idle is smooth.
One of the bolts on the exhaust collector to up-pipe had worked loose (heat cycles that I forgot to check)l this caused the gasket to let go. After replacement the exhaust is good to go.
The BPV hose was kinked/ the clamp wasn't fitted properly. Done.


Amazingly, that's all the issues they found.

Next step: alignment.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/evil-smiley-face.jpg
He is happy!

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck! It's look good. I like your method of loading the trailer. When I did that I shot a ramp across the garage.

What're you going for with alignment specs?

[Tamra]

Don't try to load like that with the body on otherwise you'll be buying a new bumper most likely! Heck we couldn't even load the car facing forward at first. We ran out of boards.

So have they completed the dyno session yet? How did it go? I second Pearldrummer's question on the alignment specs.

[mikeb75]

Don't try to load like that with the body on otherwise you'll be buying a new bumper most likely!

Agreed! Wouldn't consider it if the body was on. Speaking of the body, after doing a bunch of repair, sanding, cleaning, sanding and cleaning I put on my first coating last night to see how it would work out. I'll just throw this teaser out there:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150728_07_18_43_Pro.jpg

There's some overspray and edges that need to be addressed; I screwed up an area (on the underside) where the cord of the sprayer hit the still wet surface, but I'm pretty happy with how it's looking. This is 6 coats of matte black plasti-dip. I bought a gallon of un-thinned material and diluted it with 1 gallon of Xylene. Other than the buzz (even using a paint/organic solvent filter mask) it seems to be going on well and sprays properly.

The cost for the material (paint/thinner) is less than $100; and I should have enough to do the entire car (hopefully, forgot to include the hard-top in my estimation).

Tune is scheduled for this afternoon. Don't know about the alignment numbers, a bunch of the hardware had loosened after the test drive(s-ha!), and I forgot to re-torque, so the guys at the shop aborted the alignment after verifying it was 'close'; since they didn't want to waste my money going around re-torqueing all the suspension bolts. I'll be taking the car back after the body is fitted for corner-weighting and final alignment anyway, so no biggie.

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow, that looks great. I wanna see the finished product from a few feet back! What paint did you use?

[Flamshackle]

Agreed! Wouldn't consider it if the body was on. Speaking of the body, after doing a bunch of repair, sanding, cleaning, sanding and cleaning I put on my first coating last night to see how it would work out. I'll just throw this teaser out there:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150728_07_18_43_Pro.jpg

There's some overspray and edges that need to be addressed; I screwed up an area (on the underside) where the cord of the sprayer hit the still wet surface, but I'm pretty happy with how it's looking. This is 6 coats of matte black plasti-dip. I bought a gallon of un-thinned material and diluted it with 1 gallon of Xylene. Other than the buzz (even using a paint/organic solvent filter mask) it seems to be going on well and sprays properly.

The cost for the material (paint/thinner) is less than $100; and I should have enough to do the entire car (hopefully, forgot to include the hard-top in my estimation).

Tune is scheduled for this afternoon. Don't know about the alignment numbers, a bunch of the hardware had loosened after the test drive(s-ha!), and I forgot to re-torque, so the guys at the shop aborted the alignment after verifying it was 'close'; since they didn't want to waste my money going around re-torqueing all the suspension bolts. I'll be taking the car back after the body is fitted for corner-weighting and final alignment anyway, so no biggie.

My race car is matt black plasti dip. Great product.

Cant wait to see all the pics of this.

[mikeb75]

Well, the dyno session didn't work out... dummy (me) forgot the lug key. Couldn't take the wheels for the Mustang dyno (I'd never been there before, didn't know what type they had). Too disappointing. Re-scheduled for late August.

I have to clean some over-spray from the side panels and mount the tail lights; then I can get few shots of the black half of the car (see what I did there :) )

[Hindsight]

That black looks great! Can't wait to see the whole car. I'm planning on dipping mine too. I don't understand about the lug/wheel issue for the dyno though.

[mikeb75]

Mustang dyno doesn't use rollers, it uses adapter shafts that are attached in place of the wheels. These shafts are inserted into individual units at each driven corner of the car holding it up. Since I couldn't remove the wheels, the adapters couldn't be attached -ergo, no dyno tune for me.

[Hindsight]

Wow, I didn't know that. Are all Mustang dynos like that?

Why do you have to re-schedule an entire month out? That's ROUGH!

[mikeb75]

Yea, the lesson is always remember your lug-key...

It's not quite so rough, going to Alaska with the family for 2 weeks :)

[Hindsight]

Ah gotcha. Have fun on the trip.

I quit using keyed lug nuts/bolts. On my daily drivers, I got sick of tire shops not putting them back in the car and my not checking to ensure they did it, only to find myself stranded with a flat tire on the side of the road with no way to get the wheel off to put the spare on.

[mikeb75]

Almost finished the rear wiring; still waiting on a 3rd brake light and need to figure out where I’ll put the license plate & lights.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150729_13_28_26_Pro.jpg

Got the rear of the car panels dipped; didn’t come out too badly, not perfect, but not bad. Will be doing some touch ups in the future.

I did have a major issue where the solvent I used to dilute the Plasti-dip attacked the adhesive of the masking tape. Made a genuine mess on the gloss black I had sprayed prior to dipping. I was able to salvage one side with a ton of Goof-off, denatured alcohol and elbow grease; the other side was so far gone I attacked it with acetone, stripped off all the gloss paint and re-shot it.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150729_13_57_39_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150729_13_57_49_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150729_13_58_01_Pro.jpg

I do have a question/dilemma… Obviously this car currently has a mono-chromatic theme: black. Most of the bodywork will be matte black (this may change in the future). I am using gloss black in some areas for contrast; around the tail lights and at the side vents in these panels. I taped in the mesh panels I’m going with (much more airflow than what FFR sent; but no structural rigidity) and I'm torn on how to finish them:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150729_14_02_13_Pro.jpg

On the one hand, keeping them unpainted as just aluminum looks pretty good; and they’ll pick up the gas cap, hood pins & whatever other hardware shows.

On the other hand I had originally planned to gloss black them so they’d match the color scheme. I'm not sure how they would match up if I changed the car color (to say an atomic orange with the same gloss black accents).

Opinions?

[Hindsight]

On the other hand I had originally planned to gloss black them so they’d match the color scheme. I'm not sure how they would match up if I changed the car color (to say an atomic orange with the same gloss black accents).
Opinions?

Gosh I dunno..... ;)

44017

Gloss black accents go with everything, even flat black. Good to have some sheen contrast.

Did you spray the dip with the "DipYourCar" sprayer or did you use conventional equipment with an air compressor? It looks good. Curious as to why you needed to thin the dip.... doesn't it come pre-thinned?

[mikeb75]

You can buy dip pre-thinned, but it costs only a little less than original (full strength) Plasti-dip.

So, by my maths:
1 gallon original Plasti-dip $68.00
1 gallon Xylene $20
Total $88 and 2 gallons of material

vs
2 gallons of pre-thinned (ready to spray) Plasti-dip from the Bay-of-E $99

every dollar counts... plus I got majorly high doing the mixing :)

I already had a Harbor Freight HVLP; but didn't use it. Instead I used a Wagner "Control Spray" picked up from the rain-forest place, worked just fine. I'm sure the DYC equipment would do a fine job also, just more 'spensive. I actually think DYC used the Wagner gun a long time ago.

[Hindsight]

Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffing glue.

Thanks for the info. It really turned out nicely!

[bbjones121]

Car looks great! Go black mesh.

[Flamshackle]

Love the plastic black. Car is looking great!

[mikeb75]

After having the exhaust reviewed (and found to be not terrible) by the mechanics I wrapped the downpipe and catalytic converter with some DEI Titanium wrap (matches the headers & up-pipe). Yes, there is the likelihood that the cat will overheat and could break down. Regardless; wrapping seems like a very good idea. After heating it up and cooking out some of the resin and taking a test drive I found the engine bay appreciably cooler than before I had wrapped it.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/WP_20150730_19_16_31_Pro.jpg

Added an e-bay special 3rd brake light; had to take the harness out and re-verify the T I added for the 3rd (had no voltage) and fix the turn signal connector as 1 of the pins lost the wire (not fully crimped). I’ve also followed other builder’s leads and epoxied some wire stays to route the wiring harness in the rear.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/WP_20150730_19_16_44_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/WP_20150730_19_16_39_Pro.jpg

Looking at the pictures of the rear of the car; if I had to do it over (more likely -when) I think I'd gloss black the entire upper insert area where the lights and upper mesh panel is. I'll also try looking for gloss black vinyl instead of paint.

[Frank818]

Wooo!! Nice matte black on the car, man!! Nice, really nice!

[shinn497]

I'm going to follow this build enthusiastically. Are you going to leave your car matte or use any of their gloss topcoats? I think the latter would look great on this car.

[mikeb75]

Matte because race car (or something like that).

Am discovering why you dip the car after it's built; scratches when moving the panels around the garage to finished the mesh installation. BTW; gloss black won & looks pretty bad@$$, haven't quite finished side vents, but they look better than I expected.

I have a few spray cans of P-D (use it on my helmet and other things), so going to try to patch it... should work since it's a textured & matte finish.

[mikeb75]

I had been planning doing this for a while –had ordered aluminum sheets from an online remnant dealer and was just waiting for the body panels to be sort of attached.

Whatever! Taking inspiration from the Andrew & Tamra build I’ve boxed in the passenger side scoop and routed the intake filter from it. The panel facing the engine/turbo has a sheet of Thermo-Tec Heat Barrier on it to try to reject some heat.

I maximized the opening in the side vent & used a hex-extruded aluminum to allow the best airflow into the air box. Got this done just before the re-scheduled tune tomorrow morning -and glad I did; I think any adjustment to the inlet pipe before the MAF could do funky things to a completed tune.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_17_16_23_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_17_38_18_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_17_38_23_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_17_41_09_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_18_04_37_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_18_00_11_Pro.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150821_19_58_29_Pro.jpg
-_- there’s an airfilter hiding in there
Still need to finish the top panel on the airbox; but it’s good enough to get tuned!

[Frank818]

Yeah! Nice fit! I wonder if such a box would change the sound on acceleration... sometimes "airbox" do.

[AZPete]

Nice work, Mike. I've already got the same hex screen in my body vents so I may copy your air box.

[Tamra]

Looks great! We noticed a difference in temperatures with our box installed. Let us know how the tune goes!

[mikeb75]

Tune session didn’t go exactly to plan… go figure. Got the car hooked up and the tuner worked out the fueling tables to deal with the wonky injectors. Finishing a pull one of the water lines out of the pump let go and we dumped a cars worth of coolant on the dyno floor. A touch embarrassing…

After replacing the bad rubber elbow (YUGE thanks to Andrewtech for the replacement hose & note to self –replace all the 200K mile rubber hoses!), we refilled with water and burped the cooling system and were back in business.

The next issue we encountered was heat soak of the intercooler – Everyone currently building an 818 already knows this - there is NO WAY a stock WRX A2A intercooler will work in the stock location / venting. The IC was reading ~ 150F between runs with no rear engine cover before we got a fan blowing straight over it. We should have a pretty good plan to deal with this once the hard-top is installed.

Our ebay throttle body has an issue on return to idle. Seems like the throttle plate rubs the inner bore, could be tolerances/heat related, will disassemble and check clearances.

Next and the killer we had dropping oil pressure. I can only assume we were low in total oil level and without any cooler hooked up we probably just exceeded the thermal capacity of the system and the Shell Rotella T6 thinned out. Need to move up our plans to add the oil cooler; just ordered from ebay. Could also consider changing up to 5w50 weight.

So the tune session was ended at that point; we pulled 224 HP @ 7K RPM (estimated 140 MPH in 4th gear at red line). The turbo boost curve was promising –once it spooled up it held a flat 18 PSI to redline; no taper or fall off. Looks like there is some extra headroom in the turbo. However, the tuner was a little puzzled/disappointed – he expects 280-300 HP from a 2L + VF39, so something is going on that causes our engine to behave very differently from a standard EJ205 (little surprise there given all the Franken-work we've done; it's pretty much a miracle the engine runs/idles).

I don’t know what the injector duty cycle was or advance & detonation retard; so I don’t know how much we left on the table. The tune seems pretty drivable and linear once the turbo is spooled; but we didn’t capture any graphs or data to review (session ended a bit abruptly when the oil pressure issue was noticed). The CEL codes have been disabled for TGV & evap control system. I'll consider this a good starting point, but it's going to be a work in progress. After we knock out the issues we'll schedule a trip back to take another swing at a home run.

What We Learned:

Check coolant lines (replace any originals left on the car)
The stock WRX A2A intercooler is pretty much totally inadequate in the default build location with body work and lack of venting
The engine/turbo puts out a ton of heat when pulling to redline
The radiator can dump a lot of heat with modest airflow (just the fans)
A VF39 can supply 18 PSI (don't know CFM) on a 2L bock up to redline with no fall-off
Anything that can go wrong will go wrong when your car is sitting on a dyno; it's a good time to have friends close by
Dyno sessions are a good learning tool for the car; running it up to 140 will expose weak points -better to find them before risking my life on a track a few hours from home

[STiPWRD]

Mike, thanks for sharing your results. I'm guessing you went to turboxs for the tune? That's probably where I'll end up eventually. Can you post the dyno plot?

[Frank818]

A lot of learning went through that dyno test, hey Mike? Things like that always happen, especially on a hand built car. :) But we know next time will be better!

[mikeb75]

Yes on TurboXS; Jermaine was doing the tune

No on dyno plot; nothing was captured or provided since the tune session was pretty much aborted. Only a few full pulls were done to 7K, and I didn't really look at the graphs much; was spending more time looking under/around the car for more leaks or issues. :(

Finally, yea, the tune was a bit more stressful (to me) than I expected; never been through one of those before. Jermaine was pretty much unphased by all the events; I guess he's seen much worse before. Me, very phased. Not quite as bad as the delivery of my kids... but the same kind of stress; just less sleeping on a hospital couch (delivery 1 was a 23.5 hour ordeal, number 2 was a bit less).

[Tamra]

The best news is, you learned a lot and didn't blow up the car. Now you can fix a few things and go back more prepared.

I'm curious on your dropping oil pressure issue. Was it a steady decline as the car heated up? I thought the T6 was supposed to be good for not thinning out.

[thall818]

Mike, good info. Sorry the dyno didn't go as planned. 224 @ 18psi does seem low. Two things come to mind. One is compression, have you checked? The other is more of a left field guess, because I don't know where the 18psi is measured. Is that what is programmed for the boost solenoid or what is measured? My point being that if the computer asks for 18, doesn't mean it was getting it. I think a bad boost solenoid would throw a code, but would a leak in tubing? A wastegate not closing perhaps? A boost gauge would confirm your pressure.

[mikeb75]

Good ideas but...

-compression was checked before engine was re-assembled. Read between 155 and 160 across all 4 cylinders (was actually shocked at that). Leak down test was not performed... Compression numbers were not re-confirmed after engine was 'completed' or installed; but we never split the block or removed the heads. Only the valve covers & timing belt cover were removed (timing belt, water & oil pumps replaced).

-boost numbers were read by T-ing a connection off the BPV to a sensor tied into the dyno hardware/software. This was confirmed by a dedicated add-on gauge on the dash and the AccessPort itself.

-Definitely a stumper on the T6 issue; always thought it was a stout oil... but the pressures definitely went down as the tuning session went on and the engine & systems were heated. Since we didn't have any an oil cooler installed, I guess there was no where for the heat to go... the oil temp gauge (again, an add on plumbed into the block at the front oil galley plug, and the pressure gauge plumbed into the block at the rear oil galley plug) read heat going up over the session, but never got to what I consider critical; didn't see it over 230... but I admit the gauges were never tested/base-lined before installation.

On start yesterday OP was reading 35 at idle up to 83 @ 4000RPM00. I did see the idle pressure level drop after I performed the oil filter re-locate, but that is expected as I added a few feet of -AN10 hose. Will definitely re-check numbers after oil cooler is installed.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

-Definitely a stumper on the T6 issue; always thought it was a stout oil... but the pressures definitely went down as the tuning session went on and the engine & systems were heated. Since we didn't have any an oil cooler installed, I guess there was no where for the heat to go... the oil temp gauge (again, an add on plumbed into the block at the front oil galley plug, and the pressure gauge plumbed into the block at the rear oil galley plug) read heat going up over the session, but never got to what I consider critical; didn't see it over 230... but I admit the gauges were never tested/base-lined before installation.

On start yesterday OP was reading 35 at idle up to 83 @ 4000RPM00. I did see the idle pressure level drop after I performed the oil filter re-locate, but that is expected as I added a few feet of -AN10 hose. Will definitely re-check numbers after oil cooler is installed.

Mike
We also use T6.
At 80* (cold idle) we run 80 psi, At 180* (hot idle) we run 24psi.
The oil temp of any oil will make a big difference.
The rule of thump I hear is that > 10 PSI per 1000 RPM is good.
Bob

[mikeb75]

Mike
We also use T6.
At 80* (cold idle) we run 80 psi, At 180* (hot idle) we run 24psi.
The oil temp of any oil will make a big difference.
The rule of thump I hear is that > 10 PSI per 1000 RPM is good.
Bob

Thanks for the confirm Bob. I remember seeing ~80 @ cold idle before the oil filter relocate.

I'll be taking notes on the oil pressure & temperatures until I'm satisfied the system is working properly.

[insurance guy]

Thanks for the confirm Bob. I remember seeing ~80 @ cold idle before the oil filter relocate.

I'll be taking notes on the oil pressure & temperatures until I'm satisfied the system is working properly.

what intake filter are you using?
where can I get that?

[mikeb75]

Dumb idea? I have lots of them…
The purge control solenoid, valve and venting to the charcoal canister were removed from the car, who want to deal with all that crap.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/purge%20valve%20simplification.jpg

But I did install a charcoal canister and vented the fuel tank to it –no one likes an explodey garage.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150828_13_34_18_Pro.jpg

So I’ve been bothered by not having a way to purge the canister; so I looked into a way I could have something to perform a purge – even if I had to do it manually. This may be totally wrong, but here it goes (for your review and (dis)approval):
1 Normally Closed, Momentary 2 way valve + 2 hose barbs of the correct size + Some tubing
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150828_12_43_39_Pro.jpg

= a user activated purge circuit. Just remember to let the engine warm up and hold it open for a minute or so every once in a while.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150828_13_16_48_Pro.jpg

[Quiny]

I was considering the same thing. I did leave the OEM purge solenoid and I plumbed my purge line hose to it. I just don't know if it will ever activate without the tank pressure sensor or tank temperature sensor hooked up.

[mikeb75]

A tale of total noobishness follows; I’m a bit embarrassed to post it, but I’ll take my punishment; safety reminders for everyone. The story it doesn’t end too badly. (Amazingly):

Was welding some support brackets in to fit an oil cooler. I did a search online about recommendations for welding on a car. I had questions about safety when there was gas in the tank. The majority of the information I found described making sure the battery was disconnected… no one seemed overly concerned about fuel.

I’m putting the oil cooler on the driver’s side, and that happens to be pretty @$*& close to the fuel filler neck. I was welding along on the lower support, having covered the (immediate) work area with damp towels – but didn’t cover it well enough. A bit of slag spalled on the corrugated coolant pipe –and burned through.

Much better a coolant than a fuel or oil line…

Cleaned up, replaced the coolant line, covered all the sensitive bits a lot better and got back to work. I think I still need to triangulate the upper part of the cooler; but overall I’m pretty happy with the results. I can mock up the thermostat now and plan the lines and order the (correct) fittings…

I am going to need to figure out a way to get more air into the cooler; only about 1/3 of it is exposed in the side vent.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150829_16_19_18_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150829_16_19_22_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150831_20_10_00_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150831_20_21_31_Pro.jpg

[STiPWRD]

I too learned a lesson about welding 2 weeks ago when installing lower harness tabs. I didn't have any fuel in the tank at the time but I did stupidly use cardboard to shield things, which quickly caught fire. Luckily my house didn't burn down but at least now I'll never take safety for granted again. Now I use sheet metal as a shield and have a water hose on standby, wet rags are a good idea.

[Tamra]

Glad nothing major happened. We had a similarly embarrassing moment with the coolant line earlier in the build when we accidentally touched it to the battery... Say the least we had a lot of cleanup to do and had to replace a section of the corrugated hose. No welding mishaps yet but then again we haven't welded anything directly on the chassis.

The oil cooler looks great there.

[Blitzkrieg]

Glad nothing major happened. We had a similarly embarrassing moment with the coolant line earlier in the build when we accidentally touched it to the battery... Say the least we had a lot of cleanup to do and had to replace a section of the corrugated hose. No welding mishaps yet but then again we haven't welded anything directly on the chassis.

The oil cooler looks great there.

My brother did the same thing lol. JB weld fixes everything.

[mikeb75]

In my defense, I always keep a fire extinguisher close by when welding - and I've never had to use it (touch wood) :)

[Frank818]

That was close. But I doubt it would have burn through the fuel pipe, but probably a fuel line!
I also had bad moments when I was laying under the car and welding, couldn't move my head with the mask and I was smelling something and seeing white smoke on the far edger of my peripheral vision. Took time to move and remove mask, my thick cloth has caught on fire. Got lucky.

You may need a fan on that cooler to get more air in.

[mikeb75]

You may need a fan on that cooler to get more air in.

Agreed! Haven't fitted it yet, but the cooler came with one.

Welding under the car was the worst! I didn't have a Smokey experience, that would have freaked me out.

[mikeb75]

Finished the install a few days ago, just been busy with other stuff.

Welded in a support for the oil thermostat. Finally, a weld I’m not totally embarrassed by.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150902_15_54_35_Pro.jpg

Plumbing the oil lines was a bit challenging. I'm mostly happy with the final setup except the thermostat being the highest part of the system, but it’s pressurized; should be OK. Will be interesting to see what this does to the oil pressure issue we saw earlier.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150902_17_45_25_Pro.jpg

A question about plumbing the cooler - I have the hot oil going in the bottom and the cooled oil coming out the top. Is that backwards? What is the preferred direction?
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150902_17_47_31_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150902_17_47_44_Pro.jpg

For the time being we will run the oil cooler fan and other fans we’re planning off switches & relays from the control panel. Eventually, I want to add some logic that runs the fans based on temperatures with the toggles being used as overrides.

[mikeb75]

Took a while to fix some issues in the cooling loop. I had to replace and re-do a hunch of the rubber joins. Then it took a long while to completely bleed the cooling system, but with that taken care of it was back to plugging away. And I replaced the center console control panel, made something a little more useful to my driving position; I'll cover it in a later post I guess.

Soooo, headlights. Worst part of the build –evar. Using the Bob-technique I was able to get the front of the car lined up properly. Another day or two and it should be completely mocked-up.

Right now, looks a little like a skunk, or Sebastian from Josie and the Pu$$ycats (really?? can't type Pu$$ycats).

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150913_18_01_24_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150913_18_01_06_Pro.jpg

Am a little concerned on the sight-lines out the front of the car. The seating position may be too low, I can’t locate the corners properly (neither can FIL). Anyone else have this issue where the bonnet seems too high?

[Rasmus]

I am going to need to figure out a way to get more air into the cooler; only about 1/3 of it is exposed in the side vent.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150831_20_10_00_Pro.jpg

I'd suggest a bit of custom duct work. Get out your stiff cardboard and thin aluminum and build a small, expanding, duct to feed the front of the cooler. By expanding the duct as it gets to the face, the velocity of the air will slow down but the pressure will increase. Which is what you want. High* pressure in front of the fins wanting a place to go.

*may be only a 0.5 psi difference from atmospheric but, hey.

http://pitstopusa.com/images/F108124714.jpg
Here's how a Stock Car radiator duct looks. Notice how it expands. Just make sure to seal it to the bodywork and heat-exchanger with weatherstripping or the like. That way the pressure has no where to go but through the fins.

[Frank818]

That's a nice duct!!

[mikeb75]

Have not had a lot of progress to show lately, between travel and spending two weeks tracking down and killing electrical gremlins. But now, I think I’ve finished the last of the electrical everything works properly when tested. I re-bundled the wiring harness and re-installed the dash.

The headlights are installed in the buckets; I need to do a little finishing here – I’m thinking of using some of the ‘loop’ side of adhesive backed Velcro to insulate/pad the headlight assembly & clear plastic from the fender bodywork. But I’m happy with how it looks.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150918_15_18_20_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150918_19_54_23_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20150917_16_06_10_Pro.jpg

I’ve started fitting the doors. So far it’s been mostly going well. The lack of correct screw hardware required 2 trips to the store and I had to do some trimming/profiling of the door latches to have them fit properly on the door par assembly. The functional part of the doors works well (hinges & latching) – even if the drivers side latch brace didn’t fit as cleanly as the passenger. Hopefully it hasn’t bowed out the sail bodywork too far when I tightened everything cause interference with the door skin.

I want to get the door skins mocked up shortly so I can finish drilling the locating holes and get them painted while the weather is still warm.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151019_16_17_07_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151019_20_19_21_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Passenger side came out looking pretty good. Everything lined up with a minimum of trouble.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151023_16_01_40_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151024_15_26_01_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151024_17_59_04_Pro.jpg

The drivers side isn't quite the same story...

[Canadian818]

Looks fantastic! I've always been set on going flat black, and now I'm sold for sure. Still dunno if it'll be dipped or wrapped though.

[AgentH]

Subscribed.

[mikeb75]

Still missing a bunch of things to complete this phase of the build. It isn’t going to get done in time to get on the track this year… pretty much knew that in August. So, I’m waiting on some things that are going to push this build past an ‘S’. Until they arrive I’m kinda shooting in the dark, but some radiator ducting was called for. It’s nowhere as nice as the work RetroRacing just posted, but it should do for now.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151107_14_54_48_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151108_15_44_32_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151108_15_59_56_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151108_17_36_49_Pro.jpg

[Frank818]

Great!! No limit to improvement!

[Hindsight]

Very nice! Do you think the hood vents are big enough to provide a good negative pressure source for the exhaust? I have been pondering do this same thing myself but the radiator inlet size in the front bumper is very large compared to the small hood exhaust vents, so I worry about them actually becoming a restriction. The 66 coupe, for example, has a very large hood duct. You'll have to post some results when you get it going.

[mikeb75]

Very nice! Do you think the hood vents are big enough to provide a good negative pressure source for the exhaust? I have been pondering do this same thing myself but the radiator inlet size in the front bumper is very large compared to the small hood exhaust vents, so I worry about them actually becoming a restriction. The 66 coupe, for example, has a very large hood duct. You'll have to post some results when you get it going.

Yes, and yes. Just looking at the hood openings I've had some concerns about being able to vent enough air in the stock configuration. One of the things I plan on addressing over the winter. Not to tease, but I'm keeping the cards close to the vest on this one, so I don't look lame (more lame, lamer? than usual) if it doesn't work out.

[Hindsight]

On the contrary, even if for some reason it doesn't work, you did a great thing by trying something different and sharing the results with all of us.

Mechie's larger hood vent louvers may be a good idea to extend that exhaust opening a bit.

[flynntuna]

Yes, and yes. Just looking at the hood openings I've had some concerns about being able to vent enough air in the stock configuration. One of the things I plan on addressing over the winter. Not to tease, but I'm keeping the cards close to the vest on this one, so I don't look lame (more lame, lamer? than usual) if it doesn't work out.

If you make a mold to copy the hood, you can "practice" to your heart content. ;)

[mikeb75]

If you make a mold to copy the hood, you can "practice" to your heart content. ;)

Shhhhh, what do you mean the secret sauce is 1000 island dressing ;)

[Mechie3]

I imagine a daytona coupe/C6R/Single large vent style hood opening . It'd be cool to see that, beyond my capabilities at this point. I understand keeping it hush hush so when it doesn't work there isn't a big letdown. I see too many threads on the Subaru forum that start out "OMG Biggest build ever!" and then they do a downpipe, hang onto the car for two years, then sell it. lol.

[mikeb75]

Santa brought me a RaceCapture/Pro 2 this year (well, wife-Santa anyway)! Lots of fun here. First steps are to get the unit installed and early wiring complete.

I put it on a shelf behind the dash, close but not exactly centered in the car. Had also considered under the seat, but dash is easier to wire, and the gyro/sensors do better the closer to center it is. Maybe I could relocate it to the floor of the center tunnel later. The Bluetooth transceiver is attached under the logger to the shelf.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151228_16_53_16_Pro.jpg

Power was easy, I have a 6 position fuse box in the passenger foot-well for switches & accessories. I’ll run a second line from that fuse box for hard wire an el-cheap-o Kindle Fire tablet next.

I’ve tapped the 3 existing sensors/gauges I had installed: boost/manifold pressure, oil temperature, oil pressure. Just need to insure those sensors test properly with the 5v signal.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20151228_17_42_14_Pro.jpg

Next, I’ve completed the pressure transducer wiring I had installed onto the brake master cylinders. Each cylinder Tee’s into a 500 PSI 5v automotive gauge. These will give some data about brake pressure & bias front to rear, could be helpful.

Because the logger will be behind the dash I’ve added a latching Vandal switch to my switch panel that connects to 12v digital I/O port on the logger. This has been scripted to start/stop the logging function. I’ll also add a microSD extension cable from the logger to the switch panel so I can easily access the memory card.

The GPS antenna will (eventually) be mounted to the roof.

I need to wait until about June of ‘16 for the OBD-II bridge connector to be released so I can poll the ECU.
After completing the burn in test I can start thinking about some more functions using the Logger CPU. A few that come to mind are:

Automatic control of the oil cooler fan based on the oil temperature
Water injection post IC to the intake charge based on a temperature reading taken from the IC exit port

[mikeb75]

With the cold winter months finally “over” I was able to dust off the parts shelves in the garage over the past weekend and start plugging away again.

Built the wire harness for the brake pressure transducers and plumbed/wired them into the systems. Testing indicated I had the analog connections to the logger off by 1 pin; so fixed that also. After quick testing I verified the 500 PSI transducers are picking up brake line pressure when I hit the stop pedal – nice when things work properly.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160228_15_23_11_Pro.jpg

My next project has been grafting a gauge pod to the top of the dash panel. I rough cut the ABS plastic of the pod, used a heat gun to re-profile the edges to better match the curve of the dash and epoxied it in place. If I’m lucky I’ll be able to blend the two parts together well enough with just sanding instead of having to use a filler to blend everything together. Since I’m planning on flocking the dash I only have to get the blend lines ‘close’ (I think).
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160228_13_10_28_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160228_18_23_47_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160228_18_23_53_Pro.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike, Looks good.
Is 500 psi enough? I thought pressures go up to the 1300-1500 psi levels.
Bob

[Hindsight]

Welcome back from winter hibernation. How does one flock a dash anyway? I know about Christmas trees...

[mikeb75]

Mike, Looks good.
Is 500 psi enough? I thought pressures go up to the 1300-1500 psi levels.
Bob

Good Question, Bob! I did some (back of napkin) maths to estimate line pressure from a formula I found on some web site which estimated ~360 PSI, but admittedly it's an internet formula and math isn't my strong suite... I have exploded one (500 PSI) transducer already when leak testing the brake lines. If I pop another one I'll be upsizing (and redoing the math) :|

Hindsight, I'll let you know when I work it out :). Actually I'll be using an ebay flock-it-your-self kit (go figure), which consists of acrylic paint, the actual flocking material, and a squeeze bottle for depositing. If it works out properly I'll post the information up.

[Mechie3]

A quick formula that can be used is:

F1 = Foot force
F2 = force on master cylinder
L1 = length of moment arm from pivot to center of brake pedal
L2 = length of moment arm from pivot to master cylinder

F1 * L1 = F2 * L2

F2 = F1 * L1 / L2

P = pressure
A = surface area
D = Diameter

P=F/A
P = F2/pi*(D/2)^2

Substitute in all knowns and solve for P.

P = (F1*L1)/(L2 *pi * (D/2)^2)


One thing I read at one point was to assume a driver can exert 500lbs of force in a panic stop when they slam the brakes.

[mikeb75]

the input of F1 might be the issue; I think I used an unrealistically low value (100 lbs) - I'll need to source 2-3000 PSI sensors if I use F1 = 500 lbs

[Mechie3]

Minimally someone can exert their body weight if they can stand on one foot. If you can hop then you can exert more than your body weight. In an adrenaline filled panic stop (and if you right foot brake) your foot is going to come down hard and at speed adding impact loading. I designed and machined an adjustable brake pedal for an F500 and used 500lb as my load case to make sure the owner wouldn't snap the pedal.

[Westview]

Hmm...when I was in high school I used to bet people in the weight room that I could leg press the entire weight stack on the machine, 750lbs. It always shocked them when I succeeded, but they didn't realize it was a trick. I'm only 5 foot, 6 inches tall. The seat on the leg press machine was always set too far back for my height. So when I sat down in the seat my legs were barely bent. I only had to move the pedal about 5 inches. I could easily press the 750lbs from that position. I probably could have pressed 1000lbs in the last one inch of my leg extension. That's using both legs, so figure roughly half those values. I weighed about 135lbs at the time. I wonder what a 250lb person could do in the last few inches of leg extension?

[mikeb75]

And with that gentle prodding ( :p ) I went ahead and ordered a pair of 2500 PSI transducers this afternoon :cool:

Truthfully, thanks to the brain trust here for proofing my work! I always appreciate the input and hopefully someone else with the same question finds the good information posted here.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

All the gauges on summit go to 1500 psi or more.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/gauges-accessories?N=4294951097&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=brake%20pressure%20gauge

[taco20]

I have manual gauges hooked up and have been able to see 1400 psi on both gauges pushing for all my 180 pounds could give. My pedal ratio is between 1:5-1:6. On a normal stop I see between 400-800 depending on speed. The FFR supplied pressure reducer can take almost 400 psi out of the front when closed off.

[mikeb75]

Finally, completed blending the gauge pod and covering the dash… mixed results and some lessons learned. It’s a bit patchy and not as uniform as a professional job, but I think with some tweaks to the process it would turn out fine.

Final prep/blending of the pod
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160307_14_06_45_Pro.jpg

Cleaned, boxed and ready to apply
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160307_14_28_47_Pro.jpg

First application; you can see where I ran out of working time on the paint at the bottom. Also I was following the curve of the dash for this application. This turns out to be a mistake.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160307_14_47_58_Pro.jpg

Sanded down the right side of the dash and re-applied paint & flock. You can make out the line between the first and second application about 3” to the right of the gauge pod.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160308_11_42_16_Pro.jpg

Third application where I covered the remaining part of the dash. Again there is a bit of a seam between the applications.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160309_12_37_57_Pro.jpg

After going back over the seam caused by the third application and some other bare patches it looks ‘good enough’ from a few feet away. Up close the imperfections are a bit too obvious.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160310_13_38_07_Pro.jpg

A little closer and you can see the trouble areas: The seam from the first to second application, Some streaks on the back of the main gauge area and a patch near the front left of the gauge hump.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160311_11_02_43_Pro_1.jpg

The flocking kit comes with 3 things : acrylic paint, a plastic (condiment) squeeze bottle and the flocking material. The paint which is used to adhere the material to the surface is probably one the cheaper formulations of paint and a higher quality paint would probably give better results.
The squeeze bottle sucks to deliver the flocking material, I don’t know what would work better but it was very inconsistent in material delivery.

The instructions state the paint has a 15 minute working time … not really. My first application was really streaky because the paint had surface dried at 8 minutes (was using a stopwatch!).

The instructions warn to cover the entire surface at one time – this seems pretty important to getting a uniform coverage, but the size of the dash and the limited working time makes this counter intuitive.

If/when I re-do this I will make the following change to the technique:
1) Cover the entire dash surface (to be flocked) with 1 coat of acrylic paint.
2) While the paint is still wet apply a second coat of paint to 1/3 of the dash. Then apply the flocking material from ¼ of the dash to the edge.
3) Paint a second coat on the second 1/3 of the dash. Again apply flocking material from the middle of the dash out to the already flocked section.
4) Last apply paint to the remaining 1/3 of the dash and flock the remaining area.

I'll channel some Adam Sessler and call this e-bay flocking kit a 2 out of 5 stars. And my application skills get a 1 out of 5 stars...

[flynntuna]

Huh... The YouTube videos make it look so easy. Thanks for your report, I'm going to try it but I'll it looks like I'll need to do some practicing on large things before doing the dash.

[metros]

The below is my build thread post on the Duplicolor bumper & trim paint I used on the dash. I think your final product would look better with something like this. Although I couldn't find any good examples from google of what flocking looks like.

I squeezed in some time to address the dash today. Came out pretty good IMO. The finish now no longer looks faded at all and has covered blemishes in the color/light scuffs that were present.

Before: Notice above the cluster - there were several similar marks in other places.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_145029_zpsspa77tba.jpg

Before - Wiped down with brake clean to de-wax the surface.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_145037_zpsfu1fqny6.jpg

After:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_161355_zpst6tw8xmi.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_161346_zpsxnndruji.jpg

[mikeb75]

No, didn’t take the 818 for a drive, took a box truck for a drive:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160419_14_44_19_Pro.jpg

Looks like I have a bunch more panel alignment, body work and painting to do… not that I’m complaining:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160420_14_01_07_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160420_14_01_17_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160420_14_01_31_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160420_14_01_37_Pro.jpg

[metros]

Fitment looks pretty good! My rear trunk lid stuck up like yours did. Roll it out in the sun for a couple hours. Put 2 paint sticks under the middle of the trunk lid resting point and weight the corners. This will bow the rear to fit the space. Keep advancing your painters tape as the body starts to conform and draw the corners down progressively.

I like that color.

[mikeb75]

Overall the HT is a nice piece. I made a first pass over the seams, and they're close; the drivers side was really good, only 1 area needs patching. The passenger side is not as good, needs more gel coat added to several places.

Getting the transitions between the separate parts of the HT from the mold is a bit more difficult. I blocked them quite a bit, bit the angles are such that I still feel a transition. I should get eyeball close and call it done...

If we get a sunny day (tomorrow?) I'll leave the car out for a few hours. I was able to get the back lined up well with just duct tape, and I think one good warming session should relax the panels enough.

Torn right now between using the FFR hood pins or quik-latch fasteners on the rear deck. Hood pins are aready paid for... but the fasteners will look nicer. Also can't decide if two will be enough or if four are needed for the HT.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike,
How easy is it to take the hard top on and off?
Is it held on by windshield bolts in the front and hood pins in the back?
Bob

[mikeb75]

Overall, I'd say very easy.

There are the front windshield bolts, whatever hood pins in back, and a pair of locating brackets at the door openings. That's it.

It isn't very heavy without glass, I was able to get it on the car by myself, slid under it and squatted it up, less than 100 lbs. With glass its going to be a 2 person job because of the size.

[mikeb75]

since there was finally a day without (much) rain and some sun I finally got a chance to throw some 'dip
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/WP_20160512_14_47_27_Pro.jpg

just a peek while I prep for the next paint work and finally get the glass installed...

[metros]

I'd love some information about your plastidip. I've been looking at different guns, colors, and brands. What experiences have you had with which brands? Recommendations for a dip newb?

[mikeb75]

Please note, I was a total ‘dip noob before starting the 818. There are some very good videos on youtube by DipYourCar which I used when I started researching.

Plasti-Dip and similar products are cheap, require minimal prep and are completely removable. For about $250 you have enough materials to cover an 818 Coupe (under $200 for an S/R).

Tools: I have been using a Wagner Control Spray HVLP electric sprayer, which is the original equipment recommended by DipYourCar.com. Now they offer their own professional (and more expensive) set-up, but the Wagner has worked just fine for me. I could also have used a pneumatic HVLP gun, but honestly for me the electric tool is more convenient.

Setup: spend as much or little time as you need to prepare the body panels. I didn’t have many voids to fix, but there were some rough edges and chips to fill. I have been using a GelCoat + Wax to do my repairs, so I have been maintaining the same gel-coat surface across the entire panel with no other fillers to account for.

Panel Prep: dry sand with 180 to make sure of a flat surface, especially over any repairs. Wet sand with 220. I have not needed to go finer since the ‘dip material has some volume to cover light surface scratches. Next, a surface scrub with a green scrub pad and Comet cleaner and warm water further preps the surface, which seems to help the ‘dip adhere better -however I have not removed ‘dip from panels treated this way, so I can’t recommend this procedure yet.

Use Blue painters masking tape to mask off any areas you do not want covered. A word of warning, the Xylene I use to thin the ‘dip attacks the tape adhesive and leaves a sticky residue. This will require an aggressive cleaning to remove; I use acetone. When performing this cleaning you will affect any paint under the tape. My recommendation is to ‘dip first, then clean, mask and paint the remaining areas.

Perform a final clean of the panel with acetone and you are ready to lay the ‘dip.

Material: I have been using the original undiluted Plasti-Dip from Performix, purchased via ebay for about $70 a gallon. Each gallon is thinned 1:1 with an additional gallon of Xylene so it is sprayable with the HVLP equipment. This nets 2 gallons of product for ~ $90.

In total I used between 6 and 7 coats of ‘dip sprayed at 15 minute intervals. The spray pattern should have a ½ overlap between passes. Watch the youtube videos to understand the proper technique. Individual coats are thin, so the coverage will be very spare for the first 2-3 coats. After that the material will build up enough that the color becomes opaque. The goal is to keep spraying the light coats so the material dries in an even matte pattern without splotches or runs. Overall it’s a forgiving product during application, even more so since you can just pull it off a panel you aren’t happy with and respray. Additionally, a second application of ‘dip can be sprayed over a first to repair damage, even using the plasti-dip from a spray can.

Be very careful when applying the ‘dip, any contact will rub off the product and require respraying/patching. Also try to work in a clean environment… but be warned the fumes -especially from the Xylene are not good for you. I wear a cartridge mask and gloves/eye protection and work in an open garage. The problem will be debris & bugs that love to land on your freshly sprayed panels…

Once the last coat is sprayed and has been allowed to set up the masking tape should be pulled -while the ‘dip is still slightly wet. This will provide the sharpest edges, however if the dip has dried more and starts to -pull as the tape is removed use a razor blade to release the tape edge. In the worst case the ‘dip on the tape won’t separate from the ‘dip on the panel and you will get some detachment and pulls. I’ve used a towel and acetone to rub back the ‘dip and clean the edge.

results:
Even after the ‘dip has fully dried it’s a bit fragile -rubbing aggressively can cause peels, but it cleans well with soap & water or cleaning alcohol.

The total weight of ‘dip for a standard size car is under 2 lbs, so it can help keep your 818 818-ier :)

I can’t compare Plasti-Dip to the Eastwood product ElastiWrap as I’ve never used them, nor have I tried other equipment other than the Wagner. Likewise, I have not tried any of the pearlizers or finishes and other crap offered … because race car.

For me the main consideration has been cheap. How to get the best results spending the least amount of money, and for that I’ve been happy with the results so far. I’d be interested in hearing other experiences. I know one other build had a blue dipped car, but I don’t remember a lot of discussion on that thread.

[Frank818]

It's a nice piece of panel. Mike what are you plans with the tops, I mean no top and top? Do you plan on keeping the top on all the time or swapping tops (well top to nothing and other way around) once in a while?

[metros]

Thanks for the first hand experienceside and feedback. I wish the websites had more pictures of vehicles with different colors. I have a difficult time trying to picture the color sample pictures.

[mikeb75]

Today FIL and I took apart the driver’s side panel to fix the alignment & gap issues we’re seeing with the HT. We adjusted the oil cooler mounting so it was slightly more inboard (not much room to maneuver), adjusted the door striker backing plate and and tweaked the side panel attachment and rear cover attachment.

These adjustments allowed us to bring both the gaps between the side panels and the HT together. Next step is to verify the driver’s door and latching mechanism sits correctly; it has always been an issue from some mis-alignment/ torqueing on the striker back plate.

I’m very pleased how all the panels line up now and how the back of the car sits. It really looks like a small supercar.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_16_57_41_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_16_57_47_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_16_57_53_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_16_58_04_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_16_58_13_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160515_17_14_52_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160513_20_27_51_Pro.jpg

Speaking of small, we are going to have to re-address the seat mounts. There is almost no gap between the top of my helmet and the roof liner -not that it’s structural, but if I sit up there is just not enough room! We’ll be removing the 1” risers under the seat mounts and probably adjusting the lay-back angle. Since we must remove the seats to install the upper rear firewall anyway, this will be the ideal time to correct the issue.


It's a nice piece of panel. Mike what are you plans with the tops, I mean no top and top? Do you plan on keeping the top on all the time or swapping tops (well top to nothing and other way around) once in a while?

Frank, I expect to keep the car in Coupe mode 100% of the time, especially since I’ll be looking to get it fully ‘caged with a front hoop that ties into the existing rollbar.

[mikeb75]

Glass install: done. In preparation for the glass install I had painted the trim surrounds with gloss black spray paint, instead of plasti-dip. I think the effect came out nice. But having the glass in looks nicer, really lends itself to being almost ‘finished’.

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160517_16_06_32_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160517_16_35_53_Pro.jpg
Just a few more items on the punch-list and we should be ready for registration.

[mikeb75]

Ok, it wasn’t that bad, but the instructions in the Manual revision -P leaves a little to be desired, at least with regards to my build which is a C -refit.
I mocked up the aluminum upper firewall a number of times to get it positioned and leveled correctly. Immediately I found that the tabs on the outside edges of the firewall prevented the hard top from actually sitting flush. So those ends were trimmed off.

Next, because I used riv-nuts and bolts to hold the firewall/gas tank covers on instead of riveting there was a spacing issue with the upper firewall. Again the hard top was being pushed up and prevented from sitting flush. Ultimately I pulled the bolts, marked and drilled holes in the upper firewall installed it ‘behind’ the lower firewall and used the hardware to hold it in.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160522_10_17_56_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160522_10_45_33_Pro.jpg

The manuals instructions on glass installation were pretty good. Use a lot of WD-40 on the gasket/installation tool.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160522_13_13_40_Pro.jpg

I’m using a harness bar instead of the 3-point harnesses and my chassis number is 206, before they made changes to the seatbelt attachment point. There was only the 1 hole and small tab on my chassis, (not the most confidence inspiring). After the upper firewall was bolted in I marked the locations and drilled the holes.

I needed to source a pair of M10 x 50mm bolts to go through the harness bar, backing spacers, upper fire wall, second spacers and chassis tabs.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160522_14_47_52_Pro.jpg

This was probably one of the most involved installations I’ve done during the build. I must have put-in/taken out the upper firewall 10 times to try to get its alignment and height correct over the past 4 days. Screwing this up would have made getting the hard-top to sit properly more difficult.

[Frank818]

Panel fitment/gap is kinda nice! Keep on going.

[AgentH]

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160310_13_38_07_Pro.jpg


Not to burst your bubble, but I don't think you'll like your gauge pod at night. Any gauge pod that sits on the dash and does not have a large enough hood will be visible on the windshield at night. I had a gauge pod cluster that sat where my WRX's clock pod sits. It was really bad at night time... I got rid of it after about a month of dealing with how distracting it was.

[mikeb75]

Not to burst your bubble, but I don't think you'll like your gauge pod at night...
Yup, was pretty bad. I'm going to have to make hoods for each of the gauges.

[mikeb75]

Busy-busy-busy over the long weekend:

Finalized the placement of the hard-top using a set of knock-off AeroCatch hood pins, using the stock hood pin location I was able to get the catches to pull the rear fenders into pretty good alignment. There is still a bit of pop at the rear cover but the side seams sit well. I’ll upgrade to proper AeroCatch fittings shortly… just needed to test & align.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160525_21_55_41_Pro.jpg

It took a long time to get the rear hatch cover to sit properly, A lot of trimming and re-profiling was required to get it to sit perfectly with the required gap at the top and be able to actually open the hatch. I had to trim ¼” from the top and another 1/8” from the bottom, and a lot of sanding to thin out the hatch. There is still a slight rub when opening the hatch fully unless I manually pull it towards me. I think the “push” from the gas struts should do the same thing, otherwise I’ll sand down the rear edge of the hard top.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160529_12_01_45_Pro.jpg

The GPS transceiver for the logger is double sided taped to the roof and the wire is run past the gasket and down the roll-bar into the main wiring bundle.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160529_21_26_14_Pro.jpg

The door bars and skins were next – drivers side was completely re-aligned and now sits much better, only ¼” away from perfect. The passenger side reused most of the holes and is close, still needs a slight adjustment to address rubbing.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160530_17_11_35_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160530_17_12_15_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160530_17_19_54_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160530_22_03_02_Pro.jpg

[Hindsight]

Looks good. I see there is a decent sized gap between the rear of the roof and the top of the bumper. I, and many others have that same gap on the S version of the 818. kind of strange. I plan on fixing mine by extending the rear of the trunk as much as is needed. Will either do it with fiberglass or Evercoat's high-strength fiberglass-strand filler. How are you planning on addressing it?

[AZPete]

Thanks, Mike, for the pics and details. I'm waiting to get my hard top & front end soon so I'm drooling and learning from your work.
Where you have AeroCatch latches would it be possible to have hidden mounts, like threaded studs bolted to the frame? Like you, I'll be 100% hard top.
Is the inside of the hard top finished smooth or rough like the inside of the body panels? Are you adding a headliner?
The GPS transceiver for my NAV system is inside my hood and it gets good reception so perhaps yours would be okay inside?

[mikeb75]

Looks good. I see there is a decent sized gap between the rear of the roof and the top of the bumper. I, and many others have that same gap on the S version of the 818. kind of strange. I plan on fixing mine by extending the rear of the trunk as much as is needed. Will either do it with fiberglass or Evercoat's high-strength fiberglass-strand filler. How are you planning on addressing it?
I can close up the gap with just a little finger pressure on the bumper top, so maybe just a bolt & locknut or two. The drivers rear corner has a small gap from the side-top-rear junction, that might need some more aggressive filler/body work.


Thanks, Mike, for the pics and details. I'm waiting to get my hard top & front end soon so I'm drooling and learning from your work.
Where you have AeroCatch latches would it be possible to have hidden mounts, like threaded studs bolted to the frame? Like you, I'll be 100% hard top.
Is the inside of the hard top finished smooth or rough like the inside of the body panels? Are you adding a headliner?
The GPS transceiver for my NAV system is inside my hood and it gets good reception so perhaps yours would be okay inside?

Threaded studs should work, there is between 1"-2" between the stock location pad for the hood pin and the body.

There is a plastic panel bonded to the inside of the HT that gives the front of it the venting for the inlet. There is also an aluminum sheet & headliner material provided by FFR, but no instructions in the user manual.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160503_17_36_00_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160504_18_57_27_Pro.jpg

So far I can tell you that black silicone, contact cement and outdoor double-sided concrete/carpet tape don't hold it up very well... probably doesn't help that the way I wrapped the headliner on the aluminum (and the aluminum being slightly too wide) creates just enough bow/ not fit to push the headliner down and stresses the adhesive. A bit of trimming would probably fix it - and note it's a ton easier to install when the top is off the car and upside-down over when installed!

[AZPete]

Thanks, Mike. All looks good to me and I'm getting more excited about the retro-fit! I just talked to Courtney and then Jolene at Stewart so perhaps I'll have the hard top and front end next week. Now I really need to get the A/C finished! Thanks.
Pete

[mikeb75]

Sweet, Pete. Shouldn't take you too long to get it installed after you received it, there isn't a ton of work to do.

Can't wait to read about your AC install. I just took a test drive around the neighborhood for about 20 minutes, and yea - there is quite a bit of heat coming from the engine compartment... and having a black car doesn't help all that much.

[mikeb75]

Hindsight is a freaking genius!

I saw his door reinforcement idea and have used it to pull the corners and rear bumper cover gap together. I bought probably the same angle aluminum, cut it into 1” sections, paired the sections, drilled them and epoxied them to the offending areas. Add 1 button head screw and lock-nut and some torque, and voila: the panel gaps shrink like magic!
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160601_15_33_13_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160601_17_41_52_Pro.jpg
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160601_18_54_42_Pro.jpg

This corner used to pop-up, but now it sits correctly aligned:
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160601_18_54_51_Pro.jpg
After installing the first bracket the bumper cover seam shrank a bit. The second and third are gluing on now.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/MikeB75/cars/818%20build/WP_20160601_20_20_41_Pro.jpg

[Hindsight]

Awesome Mike! Glad it helped you.

[07FIREBLADE]

The aluminum for the headliner is also not symmetrical. If you don't install in correctly it doesn't fit well. I did the same thing you did and my headliner kept falling. So I took it off for the HB show and haven't fixed it yet. How do you plan on taking the top off later if the brackets bolted together? Hold pins? Just using the brackets to bend it back into shape?

[07FIREBLADE]

I also don't want to burst your bubble but your top might be slightly to far forward and low. I took pretty good note of ffr car at the HB show and the top is offset back a bit so the window works properly with the door latches. You might want to address this before you make any permanent mounts. Also lay your rear hatch glass on the top and trace out where it fits. If there is any overhanging fiberglass do your self a favor and trim this away prior to install your hatch glass. Ask me how I know.

[AZPete]

X2: Hindsight is a freaking genius!
and, thanks Robert for the hard top tips.