View Full Version : Zach Fothergill's Moby Dick 818 build
fateo66
09-18-2013, 11:15 PM
I took delivery of my 818 today chassis #30. I spent all day unpacking it and inventorying all the parts so no work actually got done but here is a few pictures of my kit and my motor to start.
http://i.imgur.com/5qju7IBh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7UBtlYPh.jpg
The motor is a Darton sleeved 2.5L block, Cosworth race bearings, Cosworth pistions, 11mm oil pump, solid water pump, Z25 SOHC heads, Delta 2000 Grind cams and upgraded valve springs.
http://i.imgur.com/Nl1qTAX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/e09T4Moh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RvJNmlJh.jpg
Polished Combustion chambers
http://i.imgur.com/aRuJQLxh.jpg
Port and polished runners
http://i.imgur.com/9kLeIssh.jpg
fateo66
09-18-2013, 11:16 PM
30.5mm diameter runners
http://i.imgur.com/0uBDGFwh.jpg
The difference in waterpumps
http://i.imgur.com/jJq7Z4Nh.jpg
And lastly my solid steering rack coupler
http://i.imgur.com/dbKQAhEh.jpg
07FIREBLADE
09-18-2013, 11:52 PM
Looking good. I wonder if the solid steering coupler is actually an upgrade or not with such a light car. The rubber in the donor wrx would cut down in road vibration on a dd car. Maybe wayne can comment on this matter.
NicksPapaw
09-19-2013, 04:55 AM
This should be a fun build to watch. Very nice upgrades already.
wallace18
09-19-2013, 04:59 AM
Looks good! Have fun with the build.
Mechie3
09-19-2013, 06:04 AM
That's a lot of cans on the shelves! Glad someone else is starting a build thread. With 30 chassis' there's only a handful of threads.
metalmaker12
09-19-2013, 07:53 AM
Sick motor, way overkill, but super super sick, congrats
What intake manifold is that? I don't recognize it.
Turboguy
09-19-2013, 08:41 AM
My now, THAT is an interesting sig!
A 22B ?!?? Where in the world did you score that baby? Pictures, please!
longislandwrx
09-19-2013, 09:30 AM
looks like an NA manifold. great flow on those.
Frank818
09-19-2013, 09:51 AM
Can you comment on what benefits you expect out of those parts?
I mean those Z25s will give you what better over OEM?
Same questions for the other parts you listed...
I'm interested! :)
305mouse
09-19-2013, 09:57 AM
That manifold is from an N/A motor. Is it a real 22B? I would guess that's a 1999 or so coupe with 22b body kit/fenders. There was a company in the UK selling metal 22B panels a while ago that peaked my interest for a fun project I decided to pass on. If it's real it's golden.
Mechie3
09-19-2013, 10:28 AM
I know of 1 guy that has a 22B, but it's at his other house in new zealand. The only ones I know of in the US are the one SOA has and some that were converted US chassis from a cut in half JDM chassis. It'd be cool to see your whole collection.
longislandwrx
09-19-2013, 11:03 AM
Yeah man know your roots!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sv-IJpTXh1U&feature=player_embedded
What's the weight on that bad boy?
twizzler
09-19-2013, 04:32 PM
Cool, jealous been waiting for more than a month now for Stewart to deliver mine
WIS89
09-19-2013, 04:48 PM
Zach-
Looks like you have an awesome build in front of you!! Please keep this thread going with your build progress, as I think there are many of us that wish to follow along!!
That engine is seriously sick! I think there is an awful lot of go-fast in there!
Best of luck on your build!!
Regards,
Steve
RM1SepEx
09-19-2013, 05:14 PM
ouldn't help but notice the whiteboard... another engineer??
fateo66
09-20-2013, 07:58 PM
Looking good. I wonder if the solid steering coupler is actually an upgrade or not with such a light car. The rubber in the donor wrx would cut down in road vibration on a dd car. Maybe wayne can comment on this matter.
I figure with all the talk of welding together the pinion in the rack and how people are concerned with the slop in it that the knuckle needed to be addressed as well.
Sick motor, way overkill, but super super sick, congrats
Honestly for the most part It's just an extra motor that I've had laying around.
My now, THAT is an interesting sig!
A 22B ?!?? Where in the world did you score that baby? Pictures, please!
It's not a real 22b it is 99 Impreza that's been converted. Here is some pics of most of my other cars.
http://a3.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/130/87d68a1e4fa74fc3b1f0d833b3e64fcc/l.jpg
http://a4.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/135/0ab4922512204d7488688b3189cd8705/l.jpg
https://scontent-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/522924_10151142202559502_1769830009_n.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x310/fateo66/IMG_0885_zps3826b8ad.jpg
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/q82/s720x720/941812_10151952839804502_1795977614_n.jpg
Margarite's 05
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/s720x720/251910_10100930152663503_1004737728_n.jpg
fateo66
09-20-2013, 07:59 PM
And here is my 2000 RHD STI swapped Impreza that I sold a few months ago.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x310/fateo66/DSCN3259_zps85e660e4.jpg
Ice racing on George town lake
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/s720x720/487726_10101346171238943_1136918427_n.jpg
Can you comment on what benefits you expect out of those parts?
I mean those Z25s will give you what better over OEM?
Same questions for the other parts you listed...
I'm interested! :)
The Z25 head is the best SOHC head IMO. There is alot of reasons why I like them over the DOHC turbo subaru heads. Some key points are
Better valve placement, large stock ports that flow aswell as the JDM EJ207 big port heads, roughly half the rotating mass, cheaper cams (I only had to buy two of them) And most importantly they super easy to set the valve lash.
As for the manifold fully stock they flow more constantly runner to runner and just about as much CFM as the high dollar Cosworth manifold (and out flows every other manifold out there)
ouldn't help but notice the whiteboard... another engineer??
Not me, that's my better half's. She was preparing something for the undergrads... way over my head.
fateo66
09-20-2013, 10:31 PM
When I sat down this morning and started looking at the firewall I decided that I wasn't completely happy with how FFR designed the sheet metal. Being that I have a full sheet metal shop at my disposal I decided to take a few of the pieces of firewall into work to sheer and notch. I ended up spending all day laying out and drilling the front firewall which was much longer then I had expected to spend on it.
First off I flush mounted the left firewall piece, as some of you may know it was originally designed to be mounted on the inside. You can also see in this pic how I trimmed and notched the bottoms of the aluminum to be symmetrical on bot sides.
http://i.imgur.com/1LejyQoh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/THmjnYVh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tOt1qHNh.jpg
And here is my front firewall all ready to be siliconed and riveted in.
http://i.imgur.com/ifzFBjih.jpg
Started quick, hopefully you get this on the road soon, before snow hits.
C.Plavan
09-21-2013, 10:07 AM
Looks great. I'm wondering if F5 will incorporate the firewall mod. Its just a simple cut/sheer right?
wallace18
09-21-2013, 10:12 AM
Looks good hopefully you have room for the LCA.
fateo66
09-21-2013, 10:28 AM
Looks great. I'm wondering if F5 will incorporate the firewall mod. Its just a simple cut/sheer right?
For the most part but I also had to re-notch a few spots. I think most could preform all the needed work with a jigsaw.
Looks good hopefully you have room for the LCA.
I'll have to machine off about 1/8" of threads from my arms.
AZPete
09-21-2013, 10:50 AM
It looks like you need more Clecos!
RM1SepEx
09-21-2013, 03:08 PM
It looks like you need more Clecos!
Nope, you don't need to do every hole! Every 3rd or 4th hole will ensure perfect flat fitment...
fateo66
09-21-2013, 11:25 PM
Alot of my friends have been coming over to check out the 818 but with just bare frame I think alot of them do not fully understand how things mount and why the 818 is so cool. So I decided to take a brake from the sheet metal work today to work on some of the funner parts. However all my hardware is currently back ordered but I've kept just about every subaru nut and bolt I have came across over the years so hopefully I won't be slowed down too much.
http://i.imgur.com/r88sDaTh.jpg
As some of you may know the 818 comes with a custom valved set of 82 series adjustable Koni yellow coilovers. In order to change the dampening rate you have to remove the bump stop and compress the shock fully to lock the shaft into the adjusting keyway. Once you have done this rotate the shaft counter clockwise until it stops. This is the softest setting (and also where my shocks were set from the factory.) On the 82 series you can turn the shaft up to 5 - 1/2 rotations clockwise to increase the firmness. I set mine at three 1/2 turns.
http://i.imgur.com/godYhAbh.jpg
After I set the dampening on the shocks I needed to install the spring perch which would only go on about 2/3 of the way. I found that if I assembled the upper spring mount and slowly tightened the adjusting ring it would push the perch gently into place.
http://i.imgur.com/b59As67h.jpg
Drilling out the spot welds on the rear backing plates to make way for my big brakes.
http://i.imgur.com/VW90RpAh.jpg
Here is my awesome clutch and flywheel setup. Instead of running the nasty ceramic clutch disk which in my experience is not very streetable I had the chromoly flywheel machined so that I could use a Carbotic disk which is supposedly a little easier to engage.
http://i.imgur.com/B3RPvtwh.jpg
I was on the fence about which motor mounts to run, solid or cusco's. I have solid mounts in a few of my other cars and the vibration isn't too bad so I ended up deciding that I will start with the solid mounts and if its too bad then I will swap them out later.
http://i.imgur.com/XPrc5NSh.jpg
Motor and tranny installed
http://i.imgur.com/aQ9pzfdh.jpg
fateo66
09-21-2013, 11:26 PM
I'm very indecisive and couldn't decide which LSD I wanted to go with so I picked up an AP Suretrac and a Torsen to try out. I installed the Torsen to start but plan on pulling the tranny back apart after driving the car for a month or so and throwing in the suretrac.
Also here is the gear ratio that I built.
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
3.45 - 2.062 - 1.448 - 1.088 - 0.738 with a 4.11 FD
http://i.imgur.com/0JxEf8kh.jpg
Mechie3
09-22-2013, 07:12 AM
I think you need to slow down (because it'll be embarrassing if you finish before me ;) ). I have similar motor mounts and liked them in the WRX.
Frank818
09-22-2013, 07:15 AM
As some of you may know the 818 comes with a custom valved set of 82 series adjustable Koni yellow coilovers. In order to change the dampening rate you have to remove the bump stop and compress the shock fully to lock the shaft into the adjusting keyway. Once you have done this rotate the shaft counter clockwise until it stops. This is the softest setting (and also where my shocks were set from the factory.) On the 82 series you can turn the shaft up to 5 - 1/2 rotations clockwise to increase the firmness. I set mine at three 1/2 turns.
Ha! It's good to know they are dampening adjustable! :)
But what a **** way to adjust them when they are installed as I guess you have to uninstall them?
That means you have to uninstall them probably at least once if not twice. First time you check how soft it is, then you increase firmness (if needed) but you don't know the behavior yet you just guess, then after seeing how firm they are for the 1-2 turns you gave them you adjust them another time to get the right firmness. So you install them 3 times and remove them twice. But at least, they are adjustable! :)
Frank818
09-22-2013, 07:25 AM
So that N/A intake manifold comes from a 99 Impreza?
From what year to what year, on which models, that manifold was available?
Frank818
09-22-2013, 07:58 AM
Also here is the gear ratio that I built.
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
3.45 - 2.062 - 1.448 - 1.088 - 0.738 with a 4.11 FD
Only 5 gears? :)
Sorry, I thought you were going to try out the 6sp to start with.
Is it still in your plans, though?
And sorry for asking so many Qs but it must be cuz your build is interesting to me. :)
fateo66
09-22-2013, 08:31 AM
Ha! It's good to know they are dampening adjustable! :)
But what a **** way to adjust them when they are installed as I guess you have to uninstall them?
That means you have to uninstall them probably at least once if not twice. First time you check how soft it is, then you increase firmness (if needed) but you don't know the behavior yet you just guess, then after seeing how firm they are for the 1-2 turns you gave them you adjust them another time to get the right firmness. So you install them 3 times and remove them twice. But at least, they are adjustable! :)
Thats exactly what I thought but at least you can adjust the dampening
So that N/A intake manifold comes from a 99 Impreza?
From what year to what year, on which models, that manifold was available?
The manifold comes on most 2005+ NA subarus. But there is a decent amount of work that needs to be done to run them on most WRX's.
I do however have a few extras for sale ( except now they have a wrinkle red finish)
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8756-Lots-of-performance-parts-most-for-the-818-but-not-all
Only 5 gears? :)
Sorry, I thought you were going to try out the 6sp to start with.
Is it still in your plans, though?
And sorry for asking so many Qs but it must be cuz your build is interesting to me. :)
Like I said I'm very indecisive! I figured it would be easiest/ best to start with a 5 speed to get the car running. Then I plan on switching to the other LSD setup. But then I have the 6 speed and a built auto 4EAT tranny that I would also like to try out.
longislandwrx
09-22-2013, 08:37 AM
you're killing it. The coil pack placement on those heads is awesome. plug changes on the impreza must be cake compared to the dohc.
I'm interested to see how the NVH is with the solid mounts, I'm going to start with window welded mounts and go from there.
Frank The 05 up NA manifolds were the best design. largest plenum and runners.
Legacy/outback manifolds are nice too, one piece design, like the V8 manifold but for a fraction of the price.
edit, sorry fate beet me to it, I walked away before hitting send
fateo66
09-22-2013, 08:47 AM
you're killing it. The coil pack placement on those heads is awesome. plug changes on the impreza must be cake compared to the dohc.
I'm interested to see how the NVH is with the solid mounts, I'm going to start with window welded mounts and go from there.
Frank The 05 up NA manifolds were the best design. largest plenum and runners.
Legacy/outback manifolds are nice too, one piece design, like the V8 manifold but for a fraction of the price.
edit, sorry fate beet me to it, I walked away before hitting send
The coil packs are not stock for that head. I retrofitted the packs and had a mounting tab welded onto the valve cover
So that N/A intake manifold comes from a 99 Impreza?
From what year to what year, on which models, that manifold was available?
Here is the link to the flowbench results. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2229576
Edit: post had to be approved and people gave better info after I submitted.
longislandwrx
09-22-2013, 08:56 AM
The coil packs are not stock for that head. I retrofitted the packs and had a mounting tab welded onto the valve cover
nice. either way the plugs are in a great spot.
metalmaker12
09-22-2013, 09:11 AM
Looking sweet
Frank818
09-22-2013, 09:30 AM
Ok I get it, thought the NA manifolds were a bolt-on.
I'll take note as an option, though! tnx
RM1SepEx
09-22-2013, 11:42 AM
Ha! It's good to know they are dampening adjustable! :)
But what a **** way to adjust them when they are installed as I guess you have to uninstall them?
That means you have to uninstall them probably at least once if not twice. First time you check how soft it is, then you increase firmness (if needed) but you don't know the behavior yet you just guess, then after seeing how firm they are for the 1-2 turns you gave them you adjust them another time to get the right firmness. So you install them 3 times and remove them twice. But at least, they are adjustable! :)
you can get double adj externally adj ones for a fee... around $2000 addl. I'll stick with these, I have the same setup on my 1991 BMW 325IC starting in the middle is the way to go.
Frank818
09-22-2013, 07:26 PM
you can get double adj externally adj ones for a fee... around $2000 addl. I'll stick with these, I have the same setup on my 1991 BMW 325IC starting in the middle is the way to go.
The additional 2k is worth it?
Frank818
09-22-2013, 07:27 PM
Here is the link to the flowbench results. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2229576
Edit: post had to be approved and people gave better info after I submitted.
Good tests! I have to re-read when I get more time cuz it's not that easy to follow-up, but there is some great info there. :)
fateo66
09-22-2013, 10:36 PM
I didn't get as much done today as I would have liked But here are a few more pics to keep people interested.
Factory DOJ stubs, used to convert any 05+ front diff to the male style found in 02-04 transmissions. This way you can use older style axles with a newer tranny.
http://i.imgur.com/roExT5sh.jpg
You cant reach 10k RPM's with an exhaust that doesn't flow evenly so here is my equal length header
http://i.imgur.com/3Ef5iUeh.jpg
And the most important part of the day..... The AWD to 2WD coupler, this replaces the center diff.
http://i.imgur.com/FSNrjdrh.jpg
RM1SepEx
09-23-2013, 06:28 AM
The additional 2k is worth it?
Not to me! For dedicated racers, I would think yes, well worth the adjustability.
VD2021
09-23-2013, 07:38 AM
F,
I have to say you are doing an outstanding job with your build thus far.
It's easy to tell that you really know the Subaru platform.
This is one that I will follow.
Please continue to keep the informative updates coming.
"Subscribed"
10k, say what?
Maybe ill have to talk to you before I build my motor.
Mechie3
09-23-2013, 10:03 AM
Negating price, do you find the SOHC cams flow to provide more benefit over the AVCS heads, or did you choose those because of the rpm you want to hit?
fateo66
09-23-2013, 10:19 AM
Everyone has to have goals right? If they are achievable or not is another question. The custom valve springs should have 51.2lbs of pressure at the seat and 207 at the 11.633mm of lift and I'm hoping between the race Cosworth bearings, the 11mm oil pump and the accusump the oil system will be able to take it.
Avcs sucks unless you have both intake and exhaust like the 07+ sti. my fxt, no point to avcs, all it is used for is emissions.
fateo66
09-23-2013, 10:38 AM
Avcs sucks unless you have both intake and exhaust like the 07+ sti. my fxt, no point to avcs, all it is used for is emissions.
08+ But I aswell do not prefer it unless you have AVCS on both the intake and exhaust.
Negating price, do you find the SOHC cams flow to provide more benefit over the AVCS heads, or did you choose those because of the rpm you want to hit?
The Z25 head is the best SOHC head IMO. There is alot of reasons why I like them over the DOHC turbo subaru heads. Some key points are
Better valve placement, large stock ports that flow aswell as the JDM EJ207 big port heads, roughly half the rotating mass, cheaper cams (I only had to buy two of them) And most importantly they super easy to set the valve lash.
But the Z25 head only came on one year subaru so they are alot harder to find then and B25 or D25 head. which IMO offsets the cost.
metalmaker12
09-23-2013, 10:53 AM
Wanna run it !!!!
Frank818
09-23-2013, 11:39 AM
But the Z25 head only came on one year subaru so they are alot harder to find
And that year is 2005?
2005 NA Impreza?
fateo66
09-23-2013, 12:20 PM
Yeah 05.
Here you can see some flow numbers that Joe was nice enough to post up. I believe the SOHC heads he flow'd were L25 heads which are a tad smaller then the Z's
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2034555
Frank818
09-23-2013, 12:40 PM
Ok let's see... I have a 2005 Impreza NA Wagon, does that mean I 100% have the Z25 heads? I will try to check the head and see for the markings.
Mechie3
09-23-2013, 12:41 PM
Avcs sucks unless you have both intake and exhaust like the 07+ sti. my fxt, no point to avcs, all it is used for is emissions.
Interesting. I'm not a tuner, so can't say 100%, but I've always heard otherwise. A few people I know that did 2.5l swaps without AVCS made less low end torque than a identical setup with AVCS. I'm not one of those guys knowledgeable enough to swap major engine components unless they're identical enough or someone else has already done it.
Interesting. I'm not a tuner, so can't say 100%, but I've always heard otherwise. A few people I know that did 2.5l swaps without AVCS made less low end torque than a identical setup with AVCS. I'm not one of those guys knowledgeable enough to swap major engine components unless they're identical enough or someone else has already done it.
I haven't looked at tables in a long time but after a set rpm the avcs is basicly non existant (pretty low too). Maybe help spool on a stock motor, put big cams in it, and you should have manual adjustable gears because now your motor is a "race" motor and you shouldn't be spending to much time below 3k.
Frank818
09-23-2013, 05:36 PM
Yeah 05.
Here you can see some flow numbers that Joe was nice enough to post up. I believe the SOHC heads he flow'd were L25 heads which are a tad smaller then the Z's
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2034555
Ok let's see... I have a 2005 Impreza NA Wagon, does that mean I 100% have the Z25 heads? I will try to check the head and see for the markings.
Well I'll be damned! If I wasn't already.
This is what I have in my garage that I use since 2005 with only 26k miles!
21742
So what do I do now... still more options on my list, instead of narrowing them down to 1-2 choices! lolll
That being said, I really don't know the real benefits of this head, I mean just by using this you will gain hp/tq along the line or what?
Does it mean a JDM EJ207 head on a JDM EJ207 engine is not good cuz this Z25 would perform better?
fateo66
09-23-2013, 06:02 PM
Now don't get me wrong small and big port JDM EJ207 heads, B25 and D25 heads are just fine. There is nothing wrong with them. And SOHC heads are not for everyone since they are not designed as a turbo head if someone wanted to run a turbo with them they would have to figure out how to get coolant and oil to and from the turbo since typically this is feed by the right head. (also there some slight clearance issues with the uppipe)
But for me and my goals of 600HP I need the best of the best to get me there and still have good street-ablity. I need an intake and head that flow incredibly well and having to tap a few ports on the block, head and oil pan are not a big deal for me but for some it might be more work then its worth.
My turbo is capable of big numbers but since the car is so light I went with an extremely small hotside; 6CM (think stock wrx size) so the entire setup may choke out and fall on its face at 400hp. But I hope not since the turbine exducer is nearly 2.25" in diameter.
Now I know how crazy that sounds and I want everyone to know that once the car gets tuned I will scale back the boost to something like 5 psi for A LONG TIME in order to learn how to drive the car. Once I feel comfortable with say 200HP I will turn up the boost a few more PSI and re-learn how to drive it. And so on and so forth.
And like I said earlier goals are just that goals. Everyone has to have something to shoot for and if I fall short here or there oh well. I'll have a great time trying to get there.
Frank818
09-23-2013, 06:22 PM
Ha I see! Tnx for the info then! :)
We are learning a lot here.
RM1SepEx
09-24-2013, 06:08 PM
Frank818, here is the KONI adj info...
Adjustment Procedure 76, 80, 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 8040, 8240 Series
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
Clockwise = Firmer
Counter Clockwise = Softer
Frank818
09-24-2013, 06:26 PM
Tnx Dan. I will keep these without looking for ones with external adjustability. Now since I saved some money I had budgeted for fully adj ones, I'll use that on some other goodies. lolll
fateo66
09-25-2013, 07:20 AM
I spent most of yesterday working on the suspension, with out the FFR hardware I can only bolt in about half of the components but I think I'm still making pretty good head way. Here is few cliff notes.
Since I'm using caster adding STI arms I needed to drill out two of the lower bosses and tap them to mount the coilover
http://i.imgur.com/gDVfcCVh.jpg
Here you can see that if anyone is using the race settings in the chassis it would be best if they used some aftermarket transverses or at very minimum use transverse links off a forester. I located a old set of Perrin PSRS's because they are a full pillow ball design!
http://i.imgur.com/wKra26dh.jpg
Lower half to the front suspension mocked up
http://i.imgur.com/fGhJmwah.jpg
And lastly all cars need to stay lubed and there is no better way to grease something up then a Zirk! So any moving component that was not a spherical bearing got a zirk.
http://i.imgur.com/u7knI1dh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qD2NNaih.jpg
Mechie3
09-25-2013, 07:48 AM
Are those the godspeed suspension bits?
fateo66
09-25-2013, 07:55 AM
Yes and no, They are ebay ones but I don't recall the brand. You have to be really careful with the ebay lat links and trailing arms.
There are three generations of them, the first gen are complete crap. The second gen are pretty good and these are the third gen are really a pretty good part. If anyone is looking to buy a set make sure they have the square/ hex section in the middle that how you can sport the good ones.
longislandwrx
09-25-2013, 08:17 AM
I'm not seeing what you are seeing... why would you want caster modified transverse links ? wouldn't you just use ~1" spacers to raise the mount points even with the front mount?
fateo66
09-25-2013, 08:47 AM
You could do that too, but I would rather run a transverse link designed with a 1" offset than run a 1" spacer and longer bolt.
longislandwrx
09-25-2013, 09:12 AM
I gotcha, I have the MSI transverse links but they are stock geometry, Maybe I can trade someone.
Xusia
09-25-2013, 12:39 PM
Do those fittings need to be lubed? If so, what is Subaru's solution to do so (since they obviously didn't supply a zerk fitting!).
Xusia
09-25-2013, 12:43 PM
Also, when I looked up the term transverse link the picture showed what I've seen referred to as a lower control arm. Can someone help educate me? :)
longislandwrx
09-25-2013, 01:45 PM
Sorry, should have said front transverse link bushing or front control arm bushings they go by many names.
Xusia
09-25-2013, 03:35 PM
Ah, thanks!
RM1SepEx
09-25-2013, 04:23 PM
rubber bushings twist and flex during suspension movement, are molded and attached to outside and inside of the bushing, when you tighten the bolt you clamp the inner bushing to stop rotation the rubber's twisting effect adds to the dampening of the rotation no lubrication needed
poly bushings freely rotate and need to be lubricated
fateo66
09-25-2013, 09:07 PM
I'm not running power steering on my 818 but I want the least amount of resistance as possible so here you can see that I disassembled the power steering rack to cut out the inner seal.
http://i.imgur.com/J8iYX6Ah.jpg
I then filled the pinon with epoxy
http://i.imgur.com/aUIEGuEh.jpg
Lastly I pressed out the rubber bushings and inserted a combination of brass and steel spacers.
http://i.imgur.com/jGLwOUzh.jpg
Saving the best for last! Margaite is trying out my Momo Carbon/Kevlar seats that I just had re-upholstered.
http://i.imgur.com/2lX9rLEh.jpg
Frank818
09-26-2013, 07:02 AM
Nice seats and SW! Nice girl too, but the SW looks way too high for her. :)
For your steering, you think the standard 818 install will be too resistant?
longislandwrx
09-26-2013, 11:15 AM
What model NRG mount is that? There used to be one, now there's like 50... I go to their site and do a :eek: and can't decide.
fateo66
09-26-2013, 12:15 PM
It's actually a Prodrive hub
http://i.imgur.com/9QREDcrh.jpg
longislandwrx
09-26-2013, 01:15 PM
that is NICE! I love the prodrive steering wheels. didn't know they made an adapter that nice.
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=350z&cat=interior&prodid=7698
mind saying what you paid?
fateo66
09-26-2013, 01:39 PM
Honestly I don't recall I bought it used several years back...$350 for a beat up sparco wheel, Prodrive hub and momo adapter seems to come to mind though.
fateo66
09-29-2013, 10:45 PM
I've spent the last few days laying out and drilling most of the sheet metal for the car. I did not expect it to take this long, but now that the bulk of it is done, I feel a lot better.
Here is the left side of the cockpit. Photobombed by my soaking wet puppy after spending most of the day playing in the rain.
http://i.imgur.com/oOXSQVJh.jpg
The right side
http://i.imgur.com/qXoTYuJh.jpg
Here is a pic of the coolant tube cut out, I decided that it would look a lot better with the tabs hidden behind the dead pedal area.
http://i.imgur.com/vFZJqnHh.jpg
Laila photobombing again
http://i.imgur.com/UDHd2vQh.jpg
I have decided to run power brakes, but since FFR said that the WRX brake booster made the brakes too touchy, I figured I would try out a single diaphragm booster to see if that gives me the feel I want. Also note the 4 port 1 1/16 master I plan to use.
http://i.imgur.com/yOfIyNBh.jpg
Using an adjustable rivet spacer makes calculating and marking hole spacing very easy.
http://i.imgur.com/BanfdK0h.jpg
fateo66
09-29-2013, 10:45 PM
here are the two belly pan sheets installed to make up the complete flat bottom.
http://i.imgur.com/zS82iC4h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zS82iC4h.jpg
Lastly, I have a complete dimple die set that I want to use but I have yet to come up with any great ideas on where to place some. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
http://i.imgur.com/U6YR903h.jpg
longislandwrx
09-30-2013, 09:10 AM
how about some vents in that fender liner to draw air past the brakes?
Frank818
09-30-2013, 09:17 AM
NewYork guy, I thought the front fender had openings just before the door? Say similar to the old Ferrari F40. Or maybe I didn't see right on Erik's pix.
fateo66
09-30-2013, 09:09 PM
FFR provides a hybrid axle shaft that allows you to use the inner CV cup from the front axle and the outer cup from the rear axle. I spent the day cleaning up the components, painting them and installing everything.
http://i.imgur.com/V3vBkpuh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EMjIwr2h.jpg
Bob_n_Cincy
09-30-2013, 09:44 PM
FFR provides a hybrid axle shaft that allows you to use the inner CV cup from the front axle and the outer cup from the rear axle. I spent the day cleaning up the components, painting them and installing everything.
http://i.imgur.com/V3vBkpuh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/EMjIwr2h.jpg
I'm impressed
What kind of paint did you use?
Bob
Mechie3
09-30-2013, 09:48 PM
Agree, that looks darn nice. Almost makes me want to do mine now. Its cool seeing all the little touches each different person does.
fateo66
09-30-2013, 10:00 PM
Thanks guys! Its Duplicolor Cherry red
bbjones121
10-01-2013, 10:33 PM
hey Zach, have you powder coated any parts? I was thinking about getting the $60 unit from harbor freight and giving it a try.
RM1SepEx
10-02-2013, 05:24 AM
I use a $100 unit from eastwood, works great, oven was free from Craigslist. The old woman was very happy to know someone was going to use her old stove
Just received email notice of "kit" on Sale for $119.99
http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-deluxe-powder-coat-kit.html?SRCCODE=1EM1932&trk_msg=MAT2A7RCIVA4RC3AP25DJ3PM1S&trk_contact=T5O0V3PG5TMM722JU4OND74I60&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.eastwood.com%2fhotcoat-deluxe-powder-coat-kit.html%3fSRCCODE%3d1EM1932&utm_campaign=1EM1932&utm_content=1EM1932
fateo66
10-02-2013, 10:40 PM
hey Zach, have you powder coated any parts? I was thinking about getting the $60 unit from harbor freight and giving it a try.
I personally have not, I had all my extra parts powder coated at BFN industries in Arvada. They do a great job and even have a few ovens big enough to fit the 818 frames in.
fateo66
10-02-2013, 10:54 PM
Small update time, I went over to my buddy shop Metalhead fab and used his tube bender to bend up some 1.5" 16ga aluminum tube. It didn't bend up as nice as I had hoped because it was so thin but it still looks 10X better then the corrugated stuff that comes in the kit.
http://i.imgur.com/fcOd9jch.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BTLQWybh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jvVa4cQh.jpg
And here is a shot of my front CV assemble after i cut off the outer inch and ground it down to save that little extra weight.
http://i.imgur.com/FwXn9Iah.jpg
longislandwrx
10-03-2013, 06:30 AM
Is there room in the body to go over the tank with the coolant line? With a heat shield it might make for a cleaner look.
RM1SepEx
10-03-2013, 07:06 AM
there is but you have a ton of wiring in there... I've placed my ECU and cruise control there too.
Mechie3
10-03-2013, 09:24 AM
I used 90 deg silicone around the side of the frame. I like your bent aluminum though.
What's that big carbon fiber piece?
Looks like the turbo side.
RM1SepEx
10-03-2013, 09:55 AM
Zack, you can cut the CV all the way to the inner surface and save a wee bit more! I put mine in a lathe
fateo66
10-03-2013, 10:11 AM
I used 90 deg silicone around the side of the frame. I like your bent aluminum though.
What's that big carbon fiber piece?
You'll just have to wait and see. I can let all the secrets out just yet, I have to keep people coming back.
Zack, you can cut the CV all the way to the inner surface and save a wee bit more! I put mine in a lathe
I wanted to keep the ABS ring just in case I end up running traction control.
longislandwrx
10-03-2013, 10:23 AM
I used 90 deg silicone around the side of the frame. I like your bent aluminum though.
I'm glad you did this and it worked out. I was worried about flow restriction with a lot of 90s but it has to be less restrictive then the corrugated stuff.
3 90s should do the trick in the back, 4 if I want everything perpendicular.
he's got carbon tubes everywhere!
Frank818
10-03-2013, 12:16 PM
You'll just have to wait and see. I can let all the secrets out just yet, I have to keep people coming back.
Oh don't worry for that, we will be back anyway! :)
Mechie3
10-03-2013, 12:44 PM
You'll just have to wait and see. I can let all the secrets out just yet, I have to keep people coming back.
If that's how you're going to be....then I don't want to come back!!! ;)
I wanted to keep the ABS ring just in case I end up running traction control.
I don't plan to use traction control/abs but cut it where you did to keep that extra dust shield in place.
fateo66
10-03-2013, 09:02 PM
Here is a little sneak preview of the brakes.
http://i.imgur.com/VrwIQHwh.jpg
56 LBS
http://i.imgur.com/NW7vVR8h.jpg
And just for comparison here is a set of stock STI Brembo rotors that have been turned down. So they should already weigh a bit less than stock. 76 LBS
http://i.imgur.com/hvYj9A5h.jpg
Frank818
10-04-2013, 04:27 PM
Remind me what those red brakes are?
fateo66
10-10-2013, 07:46 PM
Sorry about the lack of updates lately but Margarite and I have been busy looking at houses. So this is all the progress that's been made in the last week.
Between having to jump around due to the fact that I don't have my hardware kit yet and the fact that I'm doing enough custom things to the car (brake lines, coolant lines, exhaust and intercooler) I decided to mock up the rear half of the body.
http://i.imgur.com/XNK0Zbrh.jpg
The assembly manual says to cut off 1.1 inches from the welded rod on the left upper control arm. After doing some measuring I didn't feel that was the correct amount. so I cut off .513" from the left rod and .222" from the right.
http://i.imgur.com/S0MLhw8h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qcFQg1Hh.jpg
Here is the start of my seat mounts. The FFR steel mounts weigh in at around 6 lbs a pair (not that they would work with my Momo seats). I hope to have my aluminum ones come in around 3-4 lbs. Which isn't a lot of weight saving but every little bit adds up!
http://i.imgur.com/zEx82Ylh.jpg
Speaking of weight saving, the UPS man was kind enough to drop off a little care package with these inside....
http://i.imgur.com/frvr5L6h.jpg
Zodiac
10-10-2013, 08:18 PM
The body panels have a nice shine to them. What work was done just buffing?
fateo66
10-10-2013, 08:22 PM
Nothing at all! Thats how they came from FFR
Frank818
10-10-2013, 08:32 PM
And about those rotors? :)
fateo66
10-10-2013, 08:44 PM
Well I haven't had a chance to paint the calipers yet so I still cant show you.
apexanimal
10-10-2013, 08:47 PM
Forget that... Tell me more about those tubes!
07FIREBLADE
10-11-2013, 04:02 AM
Seriously let's see the exhaust.
longislandwrx
10-11-2013, 05:49 AM
And about those rotors? :)
Frank that's a wilwood kit. custom painted.
Zach, what page of the manual mentions cutting? I didn't see that and mine appear to be shorter. I wonder if It came already done.
gwader
10-11-2013, 08:15 AM
Wow! That is a lot of great looking carbon!
fateo66
10-11-2013, 09:04 AM
Frank that's a wildwood kit. custom painted.
Zach, what page of the manual mentions cutting? I didn't see that and mine appear to be shorter. I wonder if It came already done.
Correct, I have the Wilwood 6 pot/ 4 pot setup going on my 818.
But I had a loose leaflet stuck inside my manual talking about cutting the upper rod on the left side. I'm not sure what chassis number you are but I have #30.
From what I gather from talking with Jay is that if you have the upper ball joint that is welded in at an angle, you will have to cut the rod down. If your upper ball joint is welded in flat then you will be ok because you can flip it over when you install it.
Frank818
10-12-2013, 11:27 AM
Frank that's a wilwood kit.
Oh, tnx!
Those optional from FFR?
Xusia
10-12-2013, 01:00 PM
Yes. Check the order sheet. Prices run from ~$2000 to ~$3000 (depending on what you want) total for all 4 wheels.
fateo66
10-15-2013, 08:54 PM
Seat brackets are all finished up!
http://i.imgur.com/KvTvY76h.jpg
And the chassis is now rollable! I'm only 5'8" just to give you an idea of how small the car really is. Also the STI is dropped 2"
http://i.imgur.com/LTKlIxRh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PoyGOv8h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MtKptGah.jpg
longislandwrx
10-16-2013, 06:45 AM
sweet cuppin' cakes!
Frank818
10-16-2013, 07:41 AM
Beautiful.
blueoval_bowtie_guy
10-16-2013, 07:58 AM
Keep up the great work!
bbjones121
10-16-2013, 11:31 PM
Looks great! Hopefully one of these weekends coming up you wouldn't mind if I stopped by again. This time I need to bring my wife along.
fateo66
10-17-2013, 10:20 AM
Looks great! Hopefully one of these weekends coming up you wouldn't mind if I stopped by again. This time I need to bring my wife along.
That's fine with me, just give me as much heads up as possible. Margarite and I have been house shopping so I'll just have to make sure we don't have any showings scheduled for what ever time/day that ends up being.
bbjones121
10-17-2013, 10:30 AM
That's fine with me, just give me as much heads up as possible. Margarite and I have been house shopping so I'll just have to make sure we don't have any showings scheduled for what ever time/day that ends up being.
Definitely. I wouldn't show up without checking with you well in advance. Any time frame on getting front of the car on?
Hope the house shopping is going well.
flynntuna
10-17-2013, 12:18 PM
Thanks for those photos. They really show the relative size of the 818. How is the seat to pedal spacing for you? I'm 5'11 and my wife's 5'4". Is that cross brace giving you a problem in having a comfortable distance to the pedals? If my wife can't reach the pedals I'll never hear the end of it. LOL
RM1SepEx
10-17-2013, 01:18 PM
Thanks for those photos. They really show the relative size of the 818. How is the seat to pedal spacing for you? I'm 5'11 and my wife's 5'4". Is that cross brace giving you a problem in having a comfortable distance to the pedals? If my wife can't reach the pedals I'll never hear the end of it. LOL
I'm 5' 8" and my wife is 5' 1" I've worked to get the seat as low as possible and I'm not sure if I'll need to remove the angled tube brace. I do have a set of rails that only raise the seat 3/4 inch
fateo66
10-17-2013, 03:23 PM
The base of the drivers seat is about 1.5" off the frame in the front and .75" off the frame in the back and I have no issue with the cross bar, it sits comfortably under my knees. As for the reach to the pedals I feel comfortable anywhere in the 2" of adjustment I built in.
Margarite and I have just gotten accustom to keeping a pillow or two in the back of any of our cars that have fixed position seats, that way when ever she wants to drive she just puts a pillow in behind her.
longislandwrx
10-21-2013, 10:23 PM
22743
fate, what's the pn of this piece of metal. can't find it in my kit/list.
RM1SepEx
10-22-2013, 09:06 AM
On my "S" that part was already mounted with a couple tech screws... not sure of the #
longislandwrx
10-22-2013, 10:36 AM
that would make sense, its not on the packaged aluminum page, I bet its under the mounted aluminum. I was told it was not included because it didn't fit. tonight I make a template and hopefully can work some magic.
fateo66
11-02-2013, 12:13 PM
I haven't had any free time lately to work on the kit but I figured I should at least update the thread with what I have been doing with me free time.
Margarite and I decided it was time to buy our first home. Being that we both love cars and racing we needed to find a house that we were comfortable living in but also had room to work on our 8 Subaru's. After countless late night searching online and who knows how many trips around town with our real estate agent to look at places we finally came across this quaint little house in Wheat Ridge Colorado with a 1800 square foot garage!
http://i.imgur.com/plmPnE1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RFQC4WF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bi74sg4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kcqwhv3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bnJg7yt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2Xs61WX.jpg
Frank818
11-02-2013, 12:21 PM
Pretty awesome place!!! Enough space to build 8 818s!! lolll
8 Subarus and 1 Chrysler. :)
RM1SepEx
11-02-2013, 12:35 PM
awesome, I'm jealous, I have 11 cars, seven bikes and only 1000 sq ft of garage. I have to use two 12 x 20 shelter logic portables to store all my "stuff". I use a bay at each mother's house too for winter storage. 1800 ft2 would be awesome, is there height for a lift?
Mechie3
11-02-2013, 12:35 PM
So that's what qualifies as quaint nowadays? :lol:.
That garage is awesome. Three times the size of mine!
fateo66
11-02-2013, 01:20 PM
Thanks guys! The house is decorated nicely but isn't any I would consider extravagant. And just so everyone is clear the Chrysler isn't ours.
Frank818
11-02-2013, 01:21 PM
And just so everyone is clear the Chrysler isn't ours.
Thank god!!! Now that is good news!
fateo66
11-02-2013, 01:22 PM
So that's what qualifies as quaint nowadays? :lol:.
That garage is awesome. Three times the size of mine!
Heck it's nearly three times the size if our current house
Xusia
11-02-2013, 01:23 PM
...but isn't any I would consider extravagant.
The fact that your house HAS a bar, AND an 1800 square foot garage says otherwise!
Just teasing you Zach. My house isn't extravagant and I have a bar too. :)
Looks like quiet the upgrade, congratulations. Moving back to Longmont in February but theirs no garage, thinking about building one but then that ruins the budget on the 818, hum...
metalmaker12
11-02-2013, 06:44 PM
Sick pad
bueller
11-03-2013, 02:06 PM
bbjones121.....I Have the eastwood basic setup and the HF $60 gun. I have powdered countless parts with the eastwood gun. Very satisfied with the performance of it but the HF gun is MUCH more solidly built. I like it better than the eastwood gun. It's all in the prep regardless of which gun you choose. Whatch out......it's addicting. You walk around wanting to spray powder on everything!
RM1SepEx
11-03-2013, 03:06 PM
bbjones121.....I Have the eastwood basic setup and the HF $60 gun. I have powdered countless parts with the eastwood gun. Very satisfied with the performance of it but the HF gun is MUCH more solidly built. I like it better than the eastwood gun. It's all in the prep regardless of which gun you choose. Whatch out......it's addicting. You walk around wanting to spray powder on everything!
big ditto!
My wife's Miata, my 17 yr old daughter chose the color of the wheels, but she got grief in HS... the wheels POP!! pink powder from powders by the pound. They are working on color matching powder to vinyl fior me right now
How's the new house, any updates?
fateo66
12-02-2013, 04:10 PM
The house is great! Margarite and I are fully moved in, now we just need to unpack everything. As for the car I really haven't touched it about 8 weeks. However I hope to get things progressing forward in the next week or two.
Mitch Wright
12-02-2013, 06:03 PM
Congratulations on your new home, the garage is a gear heads wet dream.
Those heads should make a lot of torque.
What are you doing for eng management?
D
fateo66
12-03-2013, 08:13 AM
Honestly I'm not sure yet. I have an Autronic SM4 but I'm also like the support and community surrounding the stock ECU.
THE ITALIAN
12-03-2013, 08:58 AM
1800 square foot garage!
http://i.imgur.com/bnJg7yt.jpg
Dude ! That is to die for - hope you include a lift. My family would never see me again. You have to buy an estate here in Calif to get that, or live in the boonies. Even in Calif, if you get a 3 car garage, it has a pole somewhere to meet earthquake standards. Let the wife do what she wants in the house and paint a red line between the home & your cave with a shock collar that looks like jewelry. Congradulations
C.Plavan
12-03-2013, 11:04 AM
Dude ! That is to die for - hope you include a lift. My family would never see me again. You have to buy an estate here in Calif to get that, or live in the boonies. Even in Calif, if you get a 3 car garage, it has a pole somewhere to meet earthquake standards. Let the wife do what she wants in the house and paint a red line between the home & your cave with a shock collar that looks like jewelry. Congradulations
Yeah- That is a sweet garage. So jealous.
Italian- You need to find a different builder if they are putting poles in the 3 car garage. Poles are not needed if the frame is built right for Earthquakes- 2 story or single level. If they are putting poles in, they are skimping out somewhere else in the frame.
Honestly I'm not sure yet. I have an Autronic SM4 but I'm also like the support and community surrounding the stock ECU.
The reason I asked was I was thinking of going the same route, but the cam signal is different on the SOHC and it's a pain to get the signal to match. Standalones won't work either, unless you do something totally custom.
fateo66
12-03-2013, 01:53 PM
Dude ! That is to die for - hope you include a lift. My family would never see me again. You have to buy an estate here in Calif to get that, or live in the boonies. Even in Calif, if you get a 3 car garage, it has a pole somewhere to meet earthquake standards. Let the wife do what she wants in the house and paint a red line between the home & your cave with a shock collar that looks like jewelry. Congradulations
Thank you! I am already looking for a lift, my only problem is the ceiling in the garage is only 8' so I'm stuck with either buying a bran new off brand lift or cutting holes up in the attic to get one like a rotary.
And lucky enough Margarite is a gear head too (She would rather race than build cars but she still spends alot of time in the garage with me working on her cars.)
The reason I asked was I was thinking of going the same route, but the cam signal is different on the SOHC and it's a pain to get the signal to match. Standalones won't work either, unless you do something totally custom.
Not really, there are phase one and phase two (or OBD1 and OBD11) pickups and as long as you stay with the same cam gear the ECU will be fine (unless your car has AVCS in which case you are 1/2 right because the OEM USDM AVCS ECU's will not pickup a non AVCS signal, in which case you can use ANY aftermarket ECU and wire it up for a 02-05 WRX)
SkiRideDrive
12-05-2013, 12:14 AM
Unreal
RM1SepEx
12-05-2013, 08:40 AM
Zach, I use a regular 4 post Bendpak and just don't lift them so high. I can lift a car high enough to work underneath sitting on a roll around office chair... it works as a compromise. Long term, cut out the ceiling, it is worth it to have a lift!
ddorrer
12-05-2013, 10:01 AM
You could also install a mechanic's trench with stairs centered underneath the lift for added work height when the car is lifted.
randy808
12-05-2013, 11:23 AM
Zach welcome back! Now you have a heated garage............... get to it! hahaha
bbjones121
03-12-2014, 10:55 PM
Hey Zach, Are you done with the move yet so you can get back to the car?
ehansen007
03-13-2014, 11:06 AM
That garage is ridiculous. I need to retire away from California once it falls in the ocean and buy someplace that has huge garages.
Jealous
metalmaker12
03-13-2014, 12:54 PM
Dude ! That is to die for - hope you include a lift. My family would never see me again. You have to buy an estate here in Calif to get that, or live in the boonies. Even in Calif, if you get a 3 car garage, it has a pole somewhere to meet earthquake standards. Let the wife do what she wants in the house and paint a red line between the home & your cave with a shock collar that looks like jewelry. Congradulations
Ditto
Frank818
06-18-2014, 11:40 AM
Still moving, Zach?
Flamshackle
07-01-2015, 02:51 AM
Still moving, Zach?
I wonder if this build is a dead duck, and if so how many others are sitting dead in the water?
ben1272
07-02-2015, 06:45 PM
It looked like it was going great. Maybe new home has slowed things down.....not hard to imagine. I have kit #352.....there are ALOT of unfinished 818 cars out there. I hope it is not a bad omen!
Mechie3
07-02-2015, 08:53 PM
He has another toy he's been playing with.
Flamshackle
07-02-2015, 10:40 PM
He has another toy he's been playing with.
Ah the old-too many toys and not enough time issue.