Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread [Archive] - Page 4

Oppenheimer

08-07-2014, 10:39 AM

WOW. Its amazing what some faux leather, and some genuine creativity, does for the dash and door panel.

As I was reading along I was thinking the AL faceplate could look good bare (you could JB weld the brackets on the back or weld them for real, etc.) But it looks even better with the CF. It adds another layer of contrasting, yet complimentary, colors and textures. That is what is making it look so OEM. Its just amazing. The look is part exotic OEM, part refined racecar. If I had one suggestion, it would be to add some red to things to help blend the seats into the rest of the interior. Kinda like that Porsche shot that Tuna posted (though I don't think you need even that much to get the look). Even just some red stitching in some places.

Can't wait to see what you come up with for that angled sill panel that FFR just uses a big piece of U Channel to cover.

BTW, what did you use to cut out that AL faceplate? It came out so cleanly cut.

Aloha818

08-07-2014, 11:03 AM

Looks great, yeah I learned the hard way on the contact cement from hd or lowes. What kind did you grab

Wow, that looks very OE. Nice work, as always. So 3M 77 spray contact adhesive won't cut it?

I borrowed a tank and sprayer from a friend, I'll get the product info and post. Thanks for the approval and commenting.

Aloha818

08-07-2014, 11:13 AM

I like that door treatment a lot. I may be copying that.

I had been trying to decide what to cover the dash and door panels with. My door pull and the provided aluminum insert are powder coated orange so the black faux leather and carbon fiber look panel would look really sharp.

I love how we all get ideas from each other. Makes this so much more than 'just building a car.'

Larry

It amazing how OEM your build is turning out. :cool:

Were you intentionally thinking "Porsche" when you were planning the build?

WOW. Its amazing what some faux leather, and some genuine creativity, does for the dash and door panel.

As I was reading along I was thinking the AL faceplate could look good bare (you could JB weld the brackets on the back or weld them for real, etc.) But it looks even better with the CF. It adds another layer of contrasting, yet complimentary, colors and textures. That is what is making it look so OEM. Its just amazing. The look is part exotic OEM, part refined racecar. If I had one suggestion, it would be to add some red to things to help blend the seats into the rest of the interior. Kinda like that Porsche shot that Tuna posted (though I don't think you need even that much to get the look). Even just some red stitching in some places.

Can't wait to see what you come up with for that angled sill panel that FFR just uses a big piece of U Channel to cover.

BTW, what did you use to cut out that AL faceplate? It came out so cleanly cut.

Thanks guys for your comments and input.

Yea it's fun to see what others do that you like and don't like for your own build. Kind of like a single collaboration, except YOU get to choose what is best for your 818!

I hadn't seen that Porsche interior before, maybe I should have picked up some red leather! Looks cool. I have some plans for some more red accents, not too much though. My steering wheel has red stitching.

To cut the aluminum I used a jig saw for the corners and angle grinder for the straights, hard work, BTW. Then sanding. Thanks for noticing the clean cuts! 1/8" plate is thicker than you would think.

Hopefully another productive day today.

Mechie3

08-07-2014, 03:14 PM

Do you have a close up of the the plastic trim stuff you used? I like how it looks finished vs a flat plate but am wondering what the seam looks like. I'd love to have a solid piece but I'm not footing the bill for injection molds.

K3LAG

08-07-2014, 07:49 PM

How many yards of faux leather did you use to cover the dash and both door panels?

Larry

Aloha818

08-07-2014, 11:40 PM

Looks great, yeah I learned the hard way on the contact cement from hd or lowes. What kind did you grab

Here is what I'm using

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Aloha818

08-07-2014, 11:42 PM

Aloha818

08-07-2014, 11:47 PM

How many yards of faux leather did you use to cover the dash and both door panels?

Larry

Larry, I bought/used 3 yards. This covered both upper and lower parts of the dash, both door panels and the upper rear firewall. I am ordering some more to cover more of the interior vertical surfaces.

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 12:58 AM

Since there are a couple hurricanes coming to visit Hawaii this weekend I had to spend a little time getting some things ready. You know, extra water, food, gas, and more importantly beer, wine and cheese!

I did manage to get one door pull installed and verified, along withe riveting in the pocket face panel and bolting on the pull handles. I used some 80 grit and scratched it in like stainless, might spray them with clear and keep the look. Save to think about for later.

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So here is a pic to show the result of me spending the extra time making a return on the door edges. Notice no slot in the door panel for the door catch to pass through.

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Not installed permanently yet, but here is the 1/4" stainless mesh I ordered for the main radiator grill. Weird clouds and sun today (approaching hurricane I guess) this pic doesn't show the brightness of the stainless, but you get the idea.

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Bob_n_Cincy

08-08-2014, 01:32 AM

Since there are a couple hurricanes coming to visit Hawaii this weekend I had to spend a little time getting some things ready. You know, extra water, food, gas, and more importantly beer, wine and cheese!

Weird clouds and sun today (approaching hurricane I guess) this pic doesn't show the brightness of the stainless, but you get the idea.

Hey Aloha,
You and your family, BE SAFE.
And don't lose your internet.
Bob

Hindsight

08-08-2014, 07:01 AM

Love the front shot! Can't wait to see more.

Please stay safe and keep us posted when the storms pass!

Oppenheimer

08-08-2014, 09:57 AM

To cut the aluminum I used a jig saw for the corners and angle grinder for the straights, hard work, BTW. Then sanding. Thanks for noticing the clean cuts! 1/8" plate is thicker than you would think.

Seriously? I thought you were going to say you had access to a water jet or something. Looking at those cuts its difficult to imagine they were done by hand. You have some serious talent. More importantly I think you have some really good ideas for what will look right.

Oppenheimer

08-08-2014, 10:01 AM

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Wait, the shop next to where you are doing all this work is called 'Girls who Surf"?

Quiny

08-08-2014, 11:21 AM

Wait, the shop next to where you are doing all this work is called 'Girls who Surf"?

Great catch! we will need pictures please

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 12:09 PM

Hey Aloha,
You and your family, BE SAFE.
And don't lose your internet.
Bob

Love the front shot! Can't wait to see more.

Please stay safe and keep us posted when the storms pass!

Thanks for your concern, it's looking more like it will be just some wind and rain. Honolulu (Oahu) is almost the last island in the chain to see the hurricanes. Likely slowed down by the time it gets to us. Of course, just like the mainland with approaching bad weather, everyone gets excited, schools, malls, businesses all started closing yesterday afternoon, even though they know the storm is a day away.

More pics coming! Started the quest yesterday for the perfect "Hula Girl" for the photo shoot!

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 12:13 PM

Seriously? I thought you were going to say you had access to a water jet or something. Looking at those cuts its difficult to imagine they were done by hand. You have some serious talent. More importantly I think you have some really good ideas for what will look right.

Thanks for the compliments! I do have access to a water jet. I had my head/exhaust flanges jetted from 1/2" stainless. But quicker to cut myself as I was designing as I went along.

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 12:16 PM

Wait, the shop next to where you are doing all this work is called 'Girls who Surf"?

Great catch! we will need pictures please

Yes it is. You really want to see pics of surfer girls over my 818? I can't imagine. ;)

wallace18

08-08-2014, 12:17 PM

Car looks fantastic. You are a craftsman IMO.

K3LAG

08-08-2014, 12:57 PM

Yes it is. You really want to see pics of surfer girls over my 818? I can't imagine. ;)

How about surfer girls with your 818? Best of both worlds.

longislandwrx

08-08-2014, 03:42 PM

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 09:19 PM

Car looks fantastic. You are a craftsman IMO.

Hey Wallace, thanks!

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 09:24 PM

How about surfer girls with your 818? Best of both worlds.

They are probably not on the best terms judging by the amount of stinky fillers, epoxies, resins, etc Aloha uses, on the other hand, maybe they are the ringers that helped his fiberglass look so nice.

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coincidence?

The next time a couple of them are around when I am I'll see if I can get them in a pic.

They do repair some of their boards, and yes, similar materials. But no assist in the build :(

Aloha818

08-08-2014, 09:26 PM

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Aloha818

08-08-2014, 10:01 PM

I wrapped the top of the dash with faux leather and it turned out really nice. FFR sends out the dash, upper and lower, with 3 studs/washers and nuts across the face and 2 surface mounted screws on the ends to hold the two parts together.

I think leather on the dash pad is a must to minimize reflections back up on the glass. But the lower dash can be covered with anything or painted. I have been round and round with myself on what to do. (Picture dog chasing tail) So wimped out and wrapped the lower portion with faux leather also.

There are a couple issues with wrapping the lower portion, the notch at the top of the lower portion is not exactly straight with the dash pad and the leather will not be able to wrap around the ends and stretch far enough to wrap into the gauge cluster.

So first solution was to straighten the recess on the top of the lower portion.

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Taped everything off and used the dash pad as a "form" for the filler

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Then sanded the filler and the rest of the lower panel

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The leather turns 1/2" with no problem, so with my Dremel cut off blade I cut the gauge return off about 1/2 back, starting and finishing on each lower side where the return is already about 1/2". Then I cut off the dash returns on each end. Then wrapped all the pieces, and with epoxy and silicone and backing plate flushed everything back in place, bolted the top to the bottom, and used epoxy on each end to eliminate the exposed screws.

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So now I have a fully padded dash!

So next up is the rest of the cockpit sides and floor. On my first exterior car wash I noticed that any water that got on the engine cover ran into the cockpit. So I'm thinking to myself this is going to be a continuous problem. There is virtually no space around the seats, so any water that lands there will sit till it drys. This does not even take I to consideration no roof and getting caught in the rain.

So my solution is good 'ole bedliner. I'm going to coat the floors, the center console up to the leather cap trim, the lower rear firewall panel, the front firewall and the door side sides. Then I will have custom carpets made for the floor, starting at the front of the seats. Then I no longer have to worry about water, the texture of the bedliner shouldn't look too bad.

I started cleaning and scuffing today. Tomorrow I will caulk all the joints and roll on the bedliner. If it looks bad I can always get some custom carpets that are removable for the visible areas.

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Aloha818

08-09-2014, 09:00 PM

I cleaned and scuffed the interior panels yesterday and cleaned with water then lacquer thinner. This morning I caulked all the joints and seams with a paintable caulk, tub seal.

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Then two coats of bedliner. I used the duplicator with Kevlar.

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Between coats and while the bedliner was drying I finished up installing the door panels. I wanted to get the dash in first so I could make sure and get an even gap between the door panels and the dash. I cheated over the door panels a little to get about 3/8" gap between the door panel and the dash pad. I riveted a piece a 1" aluminum channel to the top of the door, flush with the latch side about 3/8"-1/2" proud on the hinge side. I'm using Velcro to hold the top and rear edge of the door panel to the door. Then 2 rivets on the bottom
You can see I cut the top return of the door panel down to a straight 1". The forward top edge of the door panel just touches the windshield frame before the door stops touch.

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I copied Wallace's pick on outside mirrors, Hollywood type. Put those on today too. Will eventually paint to match body.

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Partway through installing the seat belts. And started laying out the pieces for the windshield wiper install.

wallace18

08-10-2014, 06:07 AM

Those mirrors are the bomb! LOL.

Aloha818

08-11-2014, 12:46 AM

With the bedliner dry from yesterday's application, time to install the seats, hopefully for the last time.

I needed to finish the seat belt install first, I'm using aftermarket and bolted the spool in the cabin, behind the seats, in the FFR location. The midpoint connection is also in the FFR location on the roll bar (I transferred the mounting plates to the exact same location on my hoops). I didn't look at the manual revision but I couldn't find where your supposed to mount the anchor point. So I attached to the 1 1/2" crossbar a little below and to the rear of the optional other spool mount location on the side. Since I bolted my seats right to the floor I didn't have a point there to mount the buckle anchor. The seatbelt kit came with some 90* angle brackets so I used them.

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I am 5' 8" 170 lbs so I didn't feel the need for the optional fuel tank and modifying the firewall. After I shortened the steering column everything feels good. I'm not sure how the optional tank actually helps, unless you just sit up straighter. My seats are in a comfortable spot, I can move the seat back and forth about 1 1/2", but with the seat reclined in a comfortable position for me, the top of the seat back hits the hoop before the back of the seat hits the firewall in the stock location. Anyway, the seatbelt spool is nestled in a nice spot that makes it where the seat back cannot touch it.

To mount the seats I welded a nut in the bottom track of all 4 locations of both seats, then cut off the heads of some 2" bolts and threaded on a few threads into the bottom of each seat, then after measuring and drilling through the crossbars I dropped the seats into place, with the cut off bolts making sure the holes lined up. Then one by one from underneath the car I replaced the cut off bolts with stainless steel ones and a large stainless steel washer. Made for a pretty simple install.

I ran out of faux leather but had enough for one section of the console. This is the section that holds my cup holder and my push button shifter. I still need to make a trim plate for the shifter, but looks ok for now.

Anyway here are a few pics, starting to look like a real car.

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They are filming an episode of Hawaii 5O in the area of my shop tomorrow, need to try and get the 818 in a scene!

07FIREBLADE

08-11-2014, 03:06 AM

If you could get the 818 into a scene that would be so epic. Everything is looking great like usual.

Oppenheimer

08-11-2014, 01:23 PM

I expect a car that exotic could catch a directors eye and find a place in the scene. Who knows, might even lead to a recurring role.

I heard of a guy with an FFR Roadster that was in a TV commercial, and the recurring revenue that resulted paid for his build.

Aloha818

08-13-2014, 09:44 PM

FFR came out with their wiper add after I had already set the gap between the windshield and the hood, and painted the hood. So instead of messing up what was already in place, another opportunity for a solution was at hand.

My gap between the bottom of the hood and the glass starts at 3/8" on each end and gradually grows to 1 1/4" in the center.

So my free time for the last three days was what it took for me to find a solution. One of my friends came by and suggested I get a clip on wiper like they use on roadsters. They plug in the cigarette lighter and then you can remove after inspection. I almost gave up and went for the shortcut.

Anyway here are some pics. BTW, Hawaii 50 was filming in the middle of the day and I had meetings, so I only took a couple pics.

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So you can see I cut up the stock wiper blade arm, cut up some 1/8" steel, cut, bent, welded back, and it works perfectly. I might even leave it. 22" long wiper blade, BTW.

RM1SepEx

08-14-2014, 01:54 AM

Aloha818

08-14-2014, 06:07 PM

I'm not sure that Maine will buy that coverage but I've played with that configuration as well. There are some universal cable drives out there that will work and as a Miata owner I have a setup from a Miata that might work better. I'm still hoping to get two wipers in there. I see you added a center hood support as well. I made up an aluminum post

In Hawaii they require 50% coverage. I'm about 75%.

Actually the center support is a catch. All 4 corners and the center all hold both up and down vertical movement.

RM1SepEx

08-14-2014, 06:47 PM

Reading your post made me look up the current law as my inspection manual is old (obtained for another project) and they revised the wiper section.

I only have to meet "adequate" WTF

On page 50 of 139... Section 8:

A. Windshield Wipers
(1) Reject vehicle if it is not equipped with an adequate wiper or wipers.
(2) Reject vehicle if any windshield wiper does not operate freely or at a reasonable speed.
(3) Reject vehicle if any wiper blade is worn or if the metal part of the wiper makes contact with the windshield.
(4) Reject vehicle if the driver cannot reach and operate freely a hand wiper, if the vehicle is not equipped with automatic wipers.

Looks like I can go single wiper too and take the easy way out!

Aloha818

08-25-2014, 09:51 PM

Aloha818

08-25-2014, 10:15 PM

It's been a week or so since I've posted. Been doing mundane boring stuff. Cleaning up more of the wire harness, getting rid of more unwanted/needed stuff. I've had a few electrical gremlins, gas gauge, AT fluid temp dummy light, EGT gauge one side, O2 sensor gauge, engine temp gauge, and a few others not working correctly. Needed to install speakers also, so engine cover, hood, fire wall, dash, center console are all back off while I troubleshoot/finish. Also needed to install a voltage clamp. Required to "trick" non-turbo ECU from seeing positive manifold pressure instead of vacuum under boost.

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So all gremlins fixed except O2, ordered a tester to to see if gauge or sensor. Installed the mid woofers in the kick panel as others have done, tweeters still need to be cut into dash.

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Also added a brace at the rear edge of the bumper at the wheel well. Made from 1/2 steel tube, flattened at each end and riveted back to the frame. Made me a little nervous having that much fiberglass unsupported.

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So here in Hawaii life is a little more relaxed and you have to "stop to smell the roses" maybe a little more than on the mainland, maybe because it's easier! But last night we went to the Kahala Hotel to a small concert/dinner with Makana as the performer. Since he brought up a Hula Girl a couple of times, in the spirit of my build, here is a pic

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STiPWRD

08-26-2014, 08:22 AM

I like that location for mounting a speaker, good idea

Lumpyguy

08-29-2014, 06:44 AM

Mechie3

08-29-2014, 07:49 AM

For the plastic trim, does your mesh now sit only on that trim? Did you make an extra wide silicone bead to hold it on?

Aloha818

08-30-2014, 01:51 AM

backing up a bunch, I want to do the roll bar/ hoop mod you did, just a few questions on it. first can you post a few quick measurements of your hoops? the bottom spacing where it meets the main chassis? the size of tubing you used? really I want to copy what you have done as its perfect! Thanks

Glad you like my change! Now that I'm mostly done I like it even better.

I can get you some additional measurements tomorrow, but basically my changes are made to match what FFR did as much as possible.

Starting on the outside side of the hoop, it is welded back into the same location as the FFR hoop.

The angle of the outside of the hoop is the same as the FFR angle.

The seatbelt anchor is welded back exactly as it was on the FFR hoop.

The height of the bar is exactly the same height as the FFR bar.

The FFR rear brace is welded back to the new hoop in exactly the same place as the FFR location.

The flat spot on top is just long enough that with keeping the same angle the other side of the brace welds to the top frame location just short of the end of the hoop on the opposite side. I think the distance between the two bottoms in the center is about 1" short of each other.

I made a few cardboard templates getting this right before I started bending steel, then it still took two tries.

Let me know what other measurements you need.

Aloha818

08-30-2014, 01:54 AM

For the plastic trim, does your mesh now sit only on that trim? Did you make an extra wide silicone bead to hold it on?

Thanks for asking!

So the plastic trim is u shaped and slips on over the fiberglass. The mesh is cut about 1/4"-1/2" larger all around and siliconed from the backside, pulled tight to the plastic trim.

Does this answer your question?

rcarhi

09-01-2014, 12:09 AM

Aloha818

09-01-2014, 02:41 AM

Hey Aloha 818, I am ordering a 33 Hotrod and got a quote from Honolulu Freight of $5800. Who did you use to get shipping of $4300? I'm looking forward to the build and sure could use any advice on saving kala on the paradise tax. Mahalo,rcarhi

Rcarhi, I used Honolulu Freight. I can't believe costs have gone up that much in a year! Have them price just the ocean part and get prices on UShip for the mainland part, might be less.

Aloha818

09-01-2014, 02:57 AM

The last major hurdle left for me is getting the gauge cluster swapped and cleaning up the rest of the unneeded wiring. My donor was a 2000 Impreza Outback, I bought a cluster on eBay from a 2004 Impreza to fit the dash design. I spent most of the weekend reviewing the two years schematics, labeling the wires, writing out a plan, and patching in the new connectors. Solder and shrink wrap.

So far it looks like I was successful, everything seems like it works

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Tomorrow I can put it all back together again!

My only code is for the fuel temperature. I cut all that out as I didn't think it was needed. Does anyone know what resistance the sensor puts out at 85 degrees? I could just add a resistor to fix. Temps here don't vary much!

shinn497

09-01-2014, 03:52 AM

Man I love this build! I want to see more pictures of it.

Bob_n_Cincy

09-01-2014, 04:00 AM

Aloha,
I'll measure tomorrow. I suspect it's a standard thermistor of 10k at 25c. Edit: this was wrong.

Tested Fuel temp sensor it today, 1.86K at 83F

Bob

Bob_n_Cincy

09-01-2014, 12:52 PM

Aloha,
I'll measure tomorrow. I suspect it's a standard thermistor of 10k at 25c.
Bob

Tested it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob

Aloha818

09-01-2014, 09:40 PM

Tested it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob

Bob, your the best! Thanks! I'll try it out tomorrow and see if that clear the code.

Aloha818

09-01-2014, 09:42 PM

Man I love this build! I want to see more pictures of it.

Full final photos will be coming in the next few weeks. Taken with a real camera and maybe a hula girl or two for fun!

Aloha818

09-01-2014, 10:22 PM

This weekend I pretty much finished swapping in the newer guage pod and correcting a few wiring gremlins.

So today I started putting in the dash, hopefully for the last time. It always takes me longer to get things done as I always try and perfect the car. So first up the plastic lens on the guage pod had some light scratches, so I wet sanded it down, first with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, then the 3step process of 3m polishing products/buffer, same as for the clear coat. Now like glass.

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I really didn't like the idea of drilling a hole in the face of my leather dash for the top screw to hold the pod. I can understand this location, as it makes a quick install, but since the dash has to be pulled to get the pod out, might as well hide all the fasteners. So I bent up a piece of aluminum, riveted with a 3/8" rivet through the existing hole in the back top. Then ground down the head of one of the 1/4"-20 screws and epoxied to the top of the dash. Then followed the FFR manual for the two lower connections. Although I did just rivet them in.

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Then onto the aluminum block off plate under the dash. I decided to keep the brake fluid reservoir in its FFR designed location. KISS reasoning. I don't have a clutch, so single reservoir. I cut a nice opening in the fiberglass and can reach in easily to get to the cap, so for something I might only need to access once a year maybe I think it's fine. A problem came up though when I went to install the block off plate.

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So a little metal fabrication later, I'm done. Still easy access to the fill cap from under the hood.

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I made some thick aluminum tabs to attach the dash to the crossbar. Attached the tabs to the dash with 2ea 3/8" rivets and then 1/4"-20 screws to the crossbar. I still needed to use 1/4" spacers between the tabs and the crossbar to drop the dash down some.

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I also installed the tweeters in the dash and then bolted the dash in with rivnuts. I didn't take a picture, but the dash to the steering column came out perfect. Between moving the whole column forward and the final location of the dash it couldn't have come out better. Just enough gap to not rub/squeak.

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I had run out of leather, my second order arrived so I was able to wrap the rearward aluminum center console cover I made. The emergency brake chrome trim piece will be wrapped with the faux carbon fiber to match the other trim pieces.

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Still a few wires to clean up and a few more pieces of aluminum to wrap with leather, but getting closer!

rcarhi

09-01-2014, 11:06 PM

Thanks for the info. I will definitely be looking for a better way!

wleehendrick

09-02-2014, 01:40 PM

Tomorrow I can put it all back together again!

Before you do that, get one of Larry's EEPROMS to reset the mileage!

Quiny

09-02-2014, 02:28 PM

How to you secure the dash to the back of the windshield frame? (where the dash and windshield meet)It would be a shame to drill holes through the top face of it.

Wayne Presley

09-02-2014, 02:34 PM

It slides into the pocket made by the frame and glass.

Aloha818

09-05-2014, 11:49 PM

Tested it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob

Bob, busy week, but added a 1.96k resistor that I had around today and that cleared the code, thanks!

Now I have codes PO443 and PO446, more research.

Bob_n_Cincy

09-06-2014, 12:41 AM

Bob, busy week, but added a 1.96k resistor that I had around today and that cleared the code, thanks!

Now I have codes PO443 and PO446, more research.
Both of those are related to the purge control valve and the non OEM gas tank.
You may have to turn them off in the ECU code.
Bob

metalmaker12

09-06-2014, 04:07 AM

How to you secure the dash to the back of the windshield frame? (where the dash and windshield meet)It would be a shame to drill holes through the top face of it.

Heavy grab Velcro works perfect.

Aloha818

09-06-2014, 05:31 PM

Both of those are related to the purge control valve and the non OEM gas tank.
You may have to turn them off in the ECU code.
Bob

Is that possible? My donor was a 2000 model.

Aloha818

09-06-2014, 05:45 PM

Today I decided to give it a quick wash, drive it around the block, and take some pics. Still have to tuck in some wires, wrap a few more pieces of trim, adjust the trunk latches, cut and buff the paint, build a bikini top, line the trunk, wait, I still have so much to do!

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Aloha818

09-06-2014, 05:56 PM

Some detail, interior shots

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Other than the missing interior bits, see anything that says "Kit Car"?

AZPete

09-06-2014, 06:34 PM

wleehendrick

09-06-2014, 09:38 PM

Hindsight

09-06-2014, 10:01 PM

Looks amazing! I didn't think I was going to like that spoiler but it looks great!! Has a last-gen Lotus Esprit look to it.... which is a good thing IMHO.

metalmaker12

09-07-2014, 08:51 AM

Nice job!!

shinn497

09-07-2014, 09:47 AM

Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.

longislandwrx

09-08-2014, 06:05 AM

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Other than the missing interior bits, see anything that says "Kit Car"?

Looks amazing! but since you asked, the dash could use a little contrast.

Aloha818

09-08-2014, 01:14 PM

Wow. I think it says production car. Expensive production car.
I've just spent 40 minutes admiring, expanding, drooling over your photos. I've admired your workmanship and creativity for months and especially like your tasteful, understated approach. Now that it's out on the streets it will be interesting to hear the reactions you get.

Looks amazing! I didn't think I was going to like that spoiler but it looks great!! Has a last-gen Lotus Esprit look to it.... which is a good thing IMHO.

Nice job!!

Keep taking photos of this amazing build please.

Thanks guys for the positive reinforcement!

I will be starting on the bikini top next while I continue to finish odds and ends. More pics to follow.

Aloha818

09-08-2014, 01:28 PM

Hot damn! Looks great.

Since you asked, (I feel like I'm nit picking) the only non-oem/kit car aspect are the right angles in the interior aluminum. You've trimmed it out nicely, but theres really no practical way to replicate production, injected molded, interior trim. Dont get me wrong, its gorgeous, but the kick panel area is the only area visible that would seem out of place on a new production car.

Great job!

Looks amazing! but since you asked, the dash could use a little contrast.

Thanks for the compliments and taking time to reply. I'm open to suggestions to improve the interior trim out. Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

33365

Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

wleehendrick

09-08-2014, 03:05 PM

Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.

Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33303&d=1410055672

Mitch Wright

09-08-2014, 03:26 PM

Beautiful, fantastic job.

RM1SepEx

09-08-2014, 04:34 PM

Thanks for the compliments and taking time to reply. I'm open to suggestions to improve the interior trim out. Part of the reason I haven't gone farther. I'm really concerned about water damage so just wrapping everything with carpet is not an option. Probably the last item I'll do is get some custom floor mats for the driver and passenger floor boards. Black with some red accents. That way if any rain/water I can just pull out the floor mats to dry.

As far as the side walls I'm still thinking, that's why I just painted with bedliner as black looks better than bare aluminum for now. The center console top cover is loosely based on the F-type, flat top with 90* return. I have been toying with the idea to shape up some leather covered more radius bent metal panels to cover the the more sharply bent FFR aluminum panels for a cleaner look. There is a good amount of footwell area so taking a little away shouldn't be too intrusive.

33365

Since the 818 does not have HVAC the dash is a little plain without all the air vents.

Again, open for suggestions.

I prepped mine for simple high grade black vinyl on the sides, water should not be a problem. Then use custom fit carpets for the floor that are removable, or rubber mats

vinyl on the side walls will look much more "finished" than the bedliner.

riptide motorsport

09-08-2014, 08:18 PM

Beautiful....incredible work!

Kalstar

09-09-2014, 07:04 AM

Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.

Aloha818

09-09-2014, 11:00 AM

I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.

Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.

I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33303&d=1410055672

Your dash turned out great! Thanks for sharing.

Aloha818

09-09-2014, 11:04 AM

Dan, thanks, and thanks for commenting.

Aloha818

09-09-2014, 11:08 AM

Beautiful....incredible work!

Thanks, it's been fun to kind of make my own and build.

Looks outstanding. Hard to improve what you have done. As for flooring I would look into carpets from Jeeps, designed to drain quickly and not smell. Cut to size and make removable via strong Velcro.

I appreciate the compliments and comments. I need to do some research, there has to be a vendor out there can has those water proof materials that can custom shape floor mats from a template.

AZPete

09-09-2014, 11:16 AM

Re rain water, most of the roadster guys drill a hole or two in the floor to let it drain out. The 818 has open slots in the rear of the floor boards so I'll leave those open, but covered with removable carpet. Like you did, I also sealed the panels under the seats - water can drain to the floor and out the slots.

I also drilled 3/8" holes in the corners of the panel under the battery compartment because water can come in from the hood vents or through the radiator to pool up deep enough for ducks.

wleehendrick

09-09-2014, 01:12 PM

Your dash turned out great! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks; you inspired to do something nicer with it.

nkw8181

09-09-2014, 06:04 PM

Now that is simply sexy!
I understand! Whenever my wife and I visit the Islands, we usually rent a convertible or Jeep and often get hit with a surprise shower. At least SoCal's 'rainy season' is pretty predictable.

Yeah, a little longer radius on the center console, and covering all the origami in the footwell would go a long way to a more production look. I'm not going to bother, though.

I like your dash, simple and clean. I did copy you and ordered the same material from fabricdaddy. However, I only covered the upper piece with it. I painted the lower curve and sides gloss black (used flat black in the instrument bezel), and spiced up the vertical face with a strip of 3M Scotchprint faux CF:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33303&d=1410055672

nkw8181

09-09-2014, 06:04 PM

nkw8181

09-09-2014, 06:06 PM

Umm not sure how the double post happened

Mechie3

09-09-2014, 10:31 PM

bbjones121

09-09-2014, 10:53 PM

Looks amazing!

Aloha818

09-09-2014, 11:28 PM

I just searched but didn't see if you mentioned what you did for the tops of the door cards. FFR says to put the top of the card on top of the door. I don't like the exposed screws and couldn't see any in your photos. Did you tuck it inside?

So I riveted a piece of 1" angle to the inside top of the door, and after I cut the top of the door card the same width along the top and wrapped with leather, I used Velcro to hold the door card in place. No visible fasteners. If you look close in my last round of pics you can see the silver top of the rivets and the door cards not tight to the door. I used some lightweight Velcro because I didn't want to tear something up to get the door cards off and on. Now I need to switch to the heavy duty version.

33413

Mechie3

09-10-2014, 06:32 AM

So the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and the part of the card on top of the door just did there?

longislandwrx

09-10-2014, 07:23 AM

Bob_n_Cincy

09-10-2014, 09:14 AM

Mechie3

09-10-2014, 09:41 AM

Craig,
Did you see this in the manual update?
33416

I did. They still go and put screws directly on the top of the flange into the door. I want it to not look like you just bolted on a panel. I think the best is if the door panel can fit entirely inside the door skin with a strip of trip around it to hide the gap.

I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.

It doesn't necessarily say kit car, but does say low cost. My WRX, envoy, and mini cooper have very similar dash layouts, though many newer cars (especially higher dollar cars) do have the sculpted feel.

Aloha818

09-10-2014, 11:04 AM

So the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and the part of the card on top of the door just did there?

Yes, the Velcro is on the vertical surface of the door card and on the vertical surface of the aluminum angle I riveted to the length of the top of the door facing the door card. I also modified the latch side of the door and door card. This face is also held in place with Velcro. I did mechanically attach the door card to the door through the bottom of the door. So no visible fasteners anywhere on the door card.

Aloha818

09-10-2014, 11:12 AM

I think the way the door cards hit the dash at a 90 (not just on your car, but all of them) is what really screams kit car.

The gtm dash and doors really sculpt around you making it feel like a much more finished interior.

I think the flatness of the doors needs to be addressed for a more oem like feel.

Your right about the way the dash and the door cards come together when the doors are closed. I wouldn't necessarily say it screams "kit car" per se, as I have seen production cars with similar detail, although a little more "design".

I had thought about molding in some design elements around installing the speakers in the door card and making a deeper storage pocket. Completely doable with fiberglass and some time. Then wrapping with leather.

Maybe if I get bored one day!

CanadianYank

09-10-2014, 01:50 PM

Killer build progress and I really like the rear roll bar mod. I'll copy that if you don't mind... Man you have done a lot of firsts with this build.

Frank

Aloha818

09-11-2014, 09:55 PM

Killer build progress and I really like the rear roll bar mod. I'll copy that if you don't mind... Man you have done a lot of firsts with this build.

Frank

Thanks for the compliment! Sure, every time I look at the roll bars it reaffirms my choice!

longislandwrx

09-12-2014, 05:58 AM

sorry, screams was a poor choice of words. My point was meant to be, that everything about the 818 looks better than its price point except the interior and a few minor things on the exterior (exposed screws on the taillights come to mind)

I had thought about molding in some design elements around installing the speakers in the door card and making a deeper storage pocket. Completely doable with fiberglass and some time. Then wrapping with leather.

Maybe if I get bored one day!

I think that will be the game changer that takes it to the next level of finish that rivals an oem interior.

Oppenheimer

09-12-2014, 10:06 AM

Re rain water, most of the roadster guys drill a hole or two in the floor to let it drain out.

...and they use boat carpet on the floor. I think you can get a nice, finished look, that is still water resistant (holes to allow drainage and carpet that will dry out quickly and not mold).

As for oem look interior, the one thing I didn't see mentioned is the Aluminum door handles. They look cool, but there just isn't anything else that is bare Aluminum in the interior to match. So they sort of stick out. If there was more of a bare aluminum theme going on they would work. So maybe powder coat them black or paint them flat black. Then maybe paint the inside of the holes red for a little contrast and to add some more red flare to match the seats and steering wheel.

Aloha818

09-14-2014, 12:35 PM

sorry, screams was a poor choice of words. My point was meant to be, that everything about the 818 looks better than its price point except the interior and a few minor things on the exterior (exposed screws on the taillights come to mind)

I think that will be the game changer that takes it to the next level of finish that rivals an oem interior.

...and they use boat carpet on the floor. I think you can get a nice, finished look, that is still water resistant (holes to allow drainage and carpet that will dry out quickly and not mold).

As for oem look interior, the one thing I didn't see mentioned is the Aluminum door handles. They look cool, but there just isn't anything else that is bare Aluminum in the interior to match. So they sort of stick out. If there was more of a bare aluminum theme going on they would work. So maybe powder coat them black or paint them flat black. Then maybe paint the inside of the holes red for a little contrast and to add some more red flare to match the seats and steering wheel.

Thanks guys for taking the time to comment.

I actually had planned on powder coating the handles black too. The few times I've actually driven it so far I noticed I just grabbed the top of the door to close, not the handle. So wear on the finish shouldn't be a problem.

But the interior is on hold while (1) I think about it some more, and after I get tags and drive it some, (2) I started working on the bikini top.

While one of my other cars was in the shop I rented a convertible Mustang. Was able to really play tourist for a couple days. (Most frequently rented car for tourists here are convertibles).

My Jeep has only ever had a bikini top here, and no air. Only every once in a while do I miss it. In the Mustang I had the air on high and was roasting in the middle of the day. So now the 818 bikini top is priority.

No pics yet, but started on the windshield channel. Metal is cut and I started welding the pieces together. I'm copying how the top on my Jeep is done, with a 1/2" deep slot, 3/16" wide groove for the canvas covered plastic tap to slip into. A little more difficult following the curve of the windshield and then the downward radius on each end.

So this is mostly in my head that what I have planned will work, so no holes drilled in the 818 until prove the concept! I just put a new top on the Jeep so now I have a good sacrifice to practice with.

RM1SepEx

09-14-2014, 01:43 PM

You should be able to buy aluminum channel extruded for that rope in a pocket front edge if that is what you are going for...

nkw8181

09-15-2014, 11:46 AM

Aloha, now you have another several hours of reading as it seams I've missed some of your build. I am finding the balance of building and seeing what cool things others do to be difficult to manage. Lol great job on the build! I'm nowhere near body panels but will referring back when I do. Now I need to start from the beginning (again) to see what I missed :-D

Harley818

09-16-2014, 12:54 AM

Aloha, If you check the forums for RV's you will find all sorts of add-on extrusions that they add to the side of an RV to hold the canopy on. One of those may be what you are looking for.

With my YJ the bikini top has a sewn on metal strip that just slides into the top of the windshield. Then when you tension the bikini at the back it holds in place. I was thinking of something similar as well.

wleehendrick

09-16-2014, 10:46 AM

I believe Craig mentioned that FFR will sell the header piece alone from the soft-top. That might be more than's needed for a simple bikini top, but it's an existing option that might work.

RM1SepEx

09-16-2014, 12:23 PM

wanna see a photo? I took these for Craig

33583 33584

JeromeS13

09-16-2014, 03:21 PM

Hmmmm... I wonder what they charge for just the header piece? I need a bikini top to keep this crazy-hot direct sunlight off of me... I have the same problem you guys have during the winter, in that I can't drive it during the hot summer months... :cool:

Mechie3

09-16-2014, 03:27 PM

I believe Craig mentioned that FFR will sell the header piece alone from the soft-top. That might be more than's needed for a simple bikini top, but it's an existing option that might work.

That's correct. It's something like $75, but confirm with Joe @ FFR. Anyone who makes a bikini top would be rather smart to utilize the same mounting structure.

RM1SepEx

09-16-2014, 05:05 PM

I'm not sure that is the best approach... not there yet to work on it. I think I want something that is permanent to attach the bikini top

tmoretta

09-16-2014, 11:06 PM

And, can a "bikini top" be left on a car while it is being trailered? Or will it rip to shreds or pummel the finish?

Mechie3

09-17-2014, 08:08 AM

I'm not sure that is the best approach... not there yet to work on it. I think I want something that is permanent to attach the bikini top

My idea was that if you were to market the bikini top it would be compatible with everyone who has already purchased FFR's top. It also allows others to upgrade to a full top later on as well so they'd be less hesitant to purchase the bikini top for fear of being unable to get the full top later. I haven't seen it in person to know if it's the best method, but from a marketing standpoint copying is good.

longislandwrx

09-17-2014, 08:45 AM

And, can a "bikini top" be left on a car while it is being trailered? Or will it rip to shreds or pummel the finish?

I hope so, otherwise it will probably self destruct while driving.

JeromeS13

09-17-2014, 12:05 PM

That's correct. It's something like $75, but confirm with Joe @ FFR. Anyone who makes a bikini top would be rather smart to utilize the same mounting structure.

I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.

Mechie3

09-17-2014, 12:53 PM

Guess it's changed since I heard from him last month.

Aloha818

09-17-2014, 06:55 PM

Thanks all for contributing to the bikini top concept!

I agree it would be best if FFR offered a bikini top option. On my jeep most of the same hardware and points of connection are the same whether a full enclosure or just a simple bikini top to shield from the sun.

For those that are not familiar with a Jeep top, this is a pic of the channel that runs along the top of the windshield. The canvas has a strip of hard plastic that slips into the slot. Better idea than using a profile made for a rope design. With a rope you would have move the whole top as you guide the rope end along the length of the channel.

33647

So I'm making my own channel to match the 818 windshield surround. Using 20ga steel for the top and bottom part and 3/16" steel for the center spacer. The top and bottom piece are 7/8" wide and the spacer is 5/16" wide, spot welded 2" on center

33648

33649

33650

After I finish making the channel I will add two connection points to the backside of the surround. When I'm done with the whole fabricating process I'll send all the metal out for black powder coating.

Between out of town guests and work I'm working slower on this than I would like.

Aloha818

09-17-2014, 06:59 PM

I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.

Guess it's changed since I heard from him last month.

Wallace bought one, ask him to order a "replacement" for you :)

I'll have over 10 hours in building that piece plus powdercoating.

Oppenheimer

09-18-2014, 09:50 AM

I just heard back from Joe... The company (that makes the top) will not sell any of those pieces individually. They'll only sell them if they're replacement parts for someone who already has a top.

I'll have over 10 hours in building that piece plus powdercoating.

Like Mechie3 said, that is just STOOPIT from a marketing standpoint. Guys are going to roll their own bikini's like Aloha is doing, then they will have 0 incentive to buy the full top from these guys later if they decide they want more coverage and still use their bikini sometimes. If this vendor makes these parts available to everyone, then anything those builders make will be compatible. Yes, there will be a chance that some might make their own full top, instead of buying the one from this vendor, but they aren't going to be selling them to others (or they'd make their own parts for mounting). If someone is going to make their own top for their own use, they probably weren't going to buy a full top from the vendor anyway. So no sale is lost.

If you are really worried about someone using your mounts to make and sell their own tops, then only allow one per customer of the individual parts. Their current position is just silly, and is going to only cost them sales down the road, and isn't going to prevent any lost sales now.

OK, rant over. Sorry to hijack this awesome thread.

Hindsight

09-28-2014, 07:00 PM

Scargo

09-28-2014, 07:42 PM

You're not asking me, but I've had experience spraying everything that exists. First paint job? I think you're nuts. Please do not hurt me... ;)
Can you get an experienced person to help you? Someone who has painted metallics?
Another option would be to go for it and accept the fact that you may have to repaint pieces till you get it down. Not only is it problematic, but you have a lot of pieces and are likely to see big variations in color, gloss, metallic reflection, etc. It seems you know that metallics and pearls are difficult because of how the particles reside in the paint, as it is applied. Consistency in process and application is crucial to having a set of pieces that match. There's prep, mixing, timing, technique and a whole lot more to achieving decent results besides good equipment.

Hindsight

09-28-2014, 08:17 PM

Thanks for the reply... I will always welcome good advice. I didnt think so much about panel variation.... Maybe I will just stick with a solid.

Aloha818

10-11-2014, 03:18 AM

Question for the resident paint expert :D

If I used a really nice gun (sata or iwata), am i completely nuts to do my first paint job with a metallic and pearl? The 818 is nice because i can do it one panel at a time but still.....

Would really appreciate your input.

You're not asking me, but I've had experience spraying everything that exists. First paint job? I think you're nuts. Please do not hurt me... ;)
Can you get an experienced person to help you? Someone who has painted metallics?
Another option would be to go for it and accept the fact that you may have to repaint pieces till you get it down. Not only is it problematic, but you have a lot of pieces and are likely to see big variations in color, gloss, metallic reflection, etc. It seems you know that metallics and pearls are difficult because of how the particles reside in the paint, as it is applied. Consistency in process and application is crucial to having a set of pieces that match. There's prep, mixing, timing, technique and a whole lot more to achieving decent results besides good equipment.

Thanks for the reply... I will always welcome good advice. I didnt think so much about panel variation.... Maybe I will just stick with a solid.

I'm on a demanding project (real work) now and for the next month, hula girl collecting dust while I'm away 😭

I'm far from any sort of expert, but I'm happy to give my opinion.

First, this is for most DIY'ers a once in a lifetime project. For me I learn by pushing myself beyond what I've done prior. If you're the kind of person to regret not trying, then you should go for it. You could try a couple panels and see how it goes. The worst thing that could happen is that you would have to repaint.

That being said, it could make you hate yourself and the car if it turns out poorly and you end up having to reprep and paint. And of course, paint is expensive, so there is a cost of "learning".

For me painting is very stressful, so many details. Making sure you got all the sand marks with the final sand, did you get every nook and cranny clean, paint booth clean enough, enough light in the right areas to see, did you buy enough paint, clear, do I have the right pressure, there are at least 4 adjustments on the gun, do I have them all adjusted properly, do I have clean, dry, air, with sufficient volume, instructions say to spray enough coats of base to cover, do I have enough overlap, am I holding the gun the right distance from the surface, am I moving to fast, am I moving to slow, after two do I need a third, how much time between coats, am I ready to spray the clear, is it going to run, am I going to have orange peel, will those dust specs sand out?

After you go through all this for one panel, can you do EXACTLY the same for each and every one? With pearl and metallic even slight differences is mix ratios, gun setup, pressure, pattern overlap, angle and distance of the gun to the surface can be seen. Obviously some colors and types are easier/harder than others.

My 4th paint job was my jeep. I really really wanted candy apple red. I spend several sleepless nights anguishing over whether to "go for it" or not. I ended up thinking I would hate myself for not trying. I had one of my friends assist me by helping me mix and be there to give a hand if I needed. Total coats was 12 and I spent almost 15 hours over the weekend laying down the paint. After the first day I was hating my decision. It turned out nice, but very stressful.

That was 3 years ago and almost every time I drive it someone comments on the color! People have flagged my down, talk to me at red lights and followed me home, just to ask about the paint. Feels pretty good when you tell them you did it yourself!

So only you can make the decision on what you will be happy with trying!

Hindsight

10-11-2014, 06:55 AM

Great info thanks so much. Hope you are able to make time to drive your 818 despite being busy!

metalmaker12

10-11-2014, 12:22 PM

Hindsight

10-11-2014, 02:34 PM

Thanks for the info metalmaker. I'm going to be doing this in my garage, not a booth, so that adds to the risk. When I was young, a neighbor of mine restored muscle cars and sold them for ungodly prices. He did everything in his garage including the paint. No booth, nothing. Just wet the floor and went for it. But I think he was probably using laquer back then which may be easier to get away with. Anyway, I'm still undecided on color but I will definitely take you up on your offer for tips when the time comes!

harrymorrow1

10-13-2014, 07:54 AM

Hey Aloha818,

Just wanted to say I love the black finish and some great ideas for finishing the car its a great look and the red seats are awesome, my car is going to be my run around as well so thinking of a few things like the cup holder haha, no I am kidding but then again why not, also radio has to be a must got to have some tunes playing while cruising around, unfortunately where I live in Ohio it can be a wee bit cold in the winter and very humid in the summer, so I am starting to think about that.

Enjoyed reading your build.

Harry

Aloha818

11-13-2014, 11:08 PM

Aloha818

11-13-2014, 11:28 PM

Today and tomorrow (Thursday, Friday) I have a couple slower days, so trying to get the car registered. Here in Hawaii it is very difficult to impossible to get through the process. One of the requirements is alignment and weight. So today I made my really first real drive. 13 miles each way to the shop that specializes in getting a car ready for inspection. I had my son follow me close to keep the coppers from seeing no tag. So a little stressful trying to watch for signs of mechanical failure and the po po.

But all went well both ways! I'm not sure if anyone else has used the auto, but mine ran absolutely great, smooth, very quick, and no sitting in traffic trying to hold the clutch, fantastic!

So here is the sheet of how he set up my suspension, please let me know if anything looks wrong.

35705

The car is for sure fun to drive, but even with the added braces and supports I still have a lot of banging going on on rough roads. This needs addressed next.

Then I stopped by to get it weighed, local requires front, rear, and gross. So here are the numbers.

35706

2100 lbs is more than I was hoping for, I used aluminum front control arms, lightweight seats, and pretty light wheels and tires. But I guess it all came back by adding AWIC, extra supports, windshield wiper, radio/speakers, spoiler, etc.i I did have a full tank af fuel.

So tomorrow I go to see the "man" to start the registration process. Most certainly I will get a list of what I need to do and provide to pass. Wish me luck!

Bob_n_Cincy

11-13-2014, 11:32 PM

Harry, sorry for the long delay in replying. My work schedule is erratic and lately all consuming. Thanks for the compliments and glad you enjoyed reading my build progress.

Hey Aloha818,
we miss you :confused:
Give us an update once in a while. miles driven, people's comments, picture of car with hula girls.
At least some pictures of the weather, we had our first snow today.
20 deg colder than normal for this time of year.
35700

Edit:
Hi Aloha, I wrote this before your second post.
Your attachment didn't work.
I think they have to be pictures

The transmission mount bangs on the frame when you hit a bump. Put some playdough between to verify.
Watch this video http://youtu.be/xACmwALj8ig

Bob

Santiago

11-14-2014, 12:11 AM

I also couldn't open the attachments.

Did you come in 2,100 lbs with or without you in it? [Note: In a track environment the "competition weight" is with driver. So that's why I ask.]

Best,
-j

Aloha818

11-14-2014, 03:19 AM

Hey Aloha818,
we miss you :confused:
Give us an update once in a while. miles driven, people's comments, picture of car with hula girls.
At least some pictures of the weather, we had our first snow today.
20 deg colder than normal for this time of year.
35700

Edit:
Hi Aloha, I wrote this before your second post.
Your attachment didn't work.
I think they have to be pictures

The transmission mount bangs on the frame when you hit a bump. Put some playdough between to verify.
Watch this video http://youtu.be/xACmwALj8ig

Bob

Thanks for the reply. I really haven't had any updates to post, car just sitting until I had some time. Since I'm live/work in a city environment I don't have the ability to drive around the neighborhood so to speak!

I have to look into the noises, I have an auto and the rear trans mount is of my own design. So I think I have another issue.

I edited my previous post, I can now see the pics, let me know if you can't.

More pics and commentary coming if and when I get through the inspection process.

Sorry for the cold, same O same O here, 72-82 degrees daily.

Aloha818

11-14-2014, 03:22 AM

I reloaded the pics, sorry. The 2100lbs is without me. Since mine has an auto that might add a few lbs too.

Thanks for posting.

FFRSpec72

11-14-2014, 02:59 PM

I had a chance to meet Gary today and see his car in Honolulu. This is one of the first "finished" 818 I have seen other than FFR/SEMA cars. Gary did a great job on the fit and finish. The car looked and sounded terrific. The Borla exhaust that he used was very nice sounding. The mods that Gray has done were great, in just talking to Gary in the parking lot everyone that walked by had something to say about the car.

35737 35738

Boog

11-14-2014, 05:53 PM

The car is for sure fun to drive, but even with the added braces and supports I still have a lot of banging going on on rough roads. This needs addressed next.

What type of noises are you hearing and what do you think they are in general? Aluminum panels or body against the frame? Engine/Trans against the frame? Squeeks/rattles from the interior or hoses?

Aloha818

11-14-2014, 08:19 PM

Aloha818

11-14-2014, 08:25 PM

What type of noises are you hearing and what do you think they are in general? Aluminum panels or body against the frame? Engine/Trans against the frame? Squeeks/rattles from the interior or hoses?

My first guess is the engine cover and trunk flexing when I go over bumps and banging on quarters. I'm going to add some material between the two. Similar to what new Corvette's have on top of the front fenders that the hood lays on. I have few places to address yet, need to work toward having a more solid feel.

In my short rides so far everyone calls out and wants to know what it is. How do you explain in 4 words or less?

wleehendrick

11-14-2014, 08:39 PM

How do you explain in 4 words or less?

"818... I built it!" :D

Louisromersh

12-01-2014, 03:55 PM

Hi Aloha818

I was wondering when you will do your write up on the modifications for a automatic transmission in 818?

Thanks

Aloha818

12-01-2014, 10:47 PM

Below is the thread that I had posted more info on cutting, etc. also look at post 216 and 342 on this thread.

I still have only driven about 35 miles, but not one issue. Waiting on recon to get tags. But runs through the gears great and the turbo stays in boost through all the gears, fun!

I did add an oil cooler located behind the side rear quarter vent on the drivers side. The push button shifter is pretty cool too.

Let me know if you have any specific questions after you read the earlier posts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8377-An-Automatic-Transmission-Question-for-PhyrraM/page2, post 51

bbjones121

08-18-2015, 11:23 PM

How is the car treating you?

Aloha818

08-20-2015, 11:51 AM

How is the car treating you?

The car is doing a great job as garage decoration��

Hawaii does not have a provision in their law to register kit cars that do not resemble/replicate a car built before 1968.

I could possibly "modify" the kit some more to make it more "resemble" a car built before 1968, but the fact that the MCO calls out the car as a 2013 and that the FFR website states that the 818 was designed as a new car makes this difficult to try and succeed. I know, as the man in charge here read through the FFR website.

Cobras are fine, 818's no.

Been busy with some other projects this year so far, and frustrated with myself for not doing more research before I bought the kit. In the last couple of weeks I have been looking at options. I might have found a solution, should know if it works out later next week.

Mechie3

08-20-2015, 01:34 PM

Can you create an LLC in a foreign state and register the car through the LLC?

Aloha818

08-20-2015, 02:31 PM

Can you create an LLC in a foreign state and register the car through the LLC?

That's what I'm trying now. The LLC was set up last week. The attorney will have my completed 818 paperwork Monday. Hope it works! Or I'm down a grand. But if it works, no sales tax, no inspections and the title will show 2013 818S Roadster.

Aero STI

08-20-2015, 02:54 PM

What state did you choose? Arizona?

Oppenheimer

08-20-2015, 03:51 PM

The car is doing a great job as garage decoration��

Hawaii does not have a provision in their law to register kit cars that do not resemble/replicate a car built before 1968.

I could possibly "modify" the kit some more to make it more "resemble" a car built before 1968, but the fact that the MCO calls out the car as a 2013 and that the FFR website states that the 818 was designed as a new car makes this difficult to try and succeed. I know, as the man in charge here read through the FFR website.

Cobras are fine, 818's no.

That Sucks. Big Time.

OK, if the AZ thing doesn't work out, how about this: Invent a story about an obscure pre-'68 sportscar. Something from some foreign, no longer in existence brand. Call it a low production racing homologation model. Get someone to create some fuzzy black and white photos of something that looks a bit like the 818, but with a bit more vintage flair, photoshop it into a few old settings. Then create a fake website about this little known car. Make up a few details about it, etc.

The fake website could look something like this: (which is about a real car, but our fake car could have a similar background)

https://www.corvaircorsa.com/fitch2.html

Then say the 818 is reproduction of that. Then lots of people, from lots of places with similar, silly rules, that want to register an 818, can use the same website, for the same thing.

Instead of racing homologation, maybe the backstory is just a low volume production car from a small, short lived brand like the Tucker.

bbjones121

08-20-2015, 04:24 PM

That's what I'm trying now. The LLC was set up last week. The attorney will have my completed 818 paperwork Monday. Hope it works! Or I'm down a grand. But if it works, no sales tax, no inspections and the title will show 2013 818S Roadster.

Sorry to hear about all the trouble. I hope it works out.

Frank818

08-20-2015, 07:02 PM

Hey Aloha, sorry this is my 1st post on your awesome thread, but you did all that great job on the car to then find yourself stuck and not being able to (yet) register it? Man that really really sucks!!! It's funny how different the registrations are between States and in Canada between Provinces too. I bet it's the same around the World. Can they just let us build and drive our car, damn it. lolll I hope your LLC works out too, I second BB.

Aloha818

08-21-2015, 12:16 AM

Thanks all for your comments!

As you can imagine, I hope this works. It is not Arizona, FYI. I will detail what steps I've taken when I'm successful or not.

I have been very upset with myself for not researching further at the start. FFR had the expected disclaimers at the time of purchase, but I think they should update their site to include further notice concerning states with laws that don't allow registration of 818's.

Besides Hawaii allowing registration of "replica" cars built before 1967, they also have a "Hot Rod" classification which requires that the car only "resemble" a car built before 1967. I think the closest car is the Alfa Romeo Tipo 33. 2 door, mid engine, open top version, similar weight and dimensions. But it is a stretch to say "resemble", however the Hawaii law seems to indicate that the manufacturer (builder) determines if the car is built to "resemble" another car.

But then the 818 would be registered as the car it "resembles". Just like Frank818 says, why can't they just let us build and drive our cars!

In the hopes that I soon might actually get to drive this thing I spent the day cleaning out my shop (that's been sitting for 7 months), and switched out my key type trunk locks with the mini push latches.

44614

44615

I still need to cut and buff the paint and finish my bikini top.

Bob_n_Cincy

08-21-2015, 12:39 AM

Sorry for your troubles, My inspection date is Sept.11.
There is something missing in your pictures.
Bob

Harley818

08-21-2015, 01:14 AM

Aloha,
glad to see you back on the forum. While you were building,..... I was looking for your daily updates.
I'm working on my bodywork now.....using yours as an example. Thanks for all your posts.
Sorry to hear about your registration blues.

but I'm also missing the hula girl!

AZPete

08-21-2015, 09:02 AM

Did Hula Girl leave you for someone with license plates? Please say it ain't so!
We miss you . . . and her.

matteo92065

08-21-2015, 09:20 AM

I recommend Montana for an LLC & registration.

bbjones121

08-21-2015, 10:06 AM

Man your car is nice! Such quality work. Can you let us know what bikini top you decide on, I want to buy or make one also.

Aloha818

08-21-2015, 10:36 PM

Sorry for your troubles, My inspection date is Sept.11.
There is something missing in your pictures.
Bob

Good luck with your inspection!

My apologies for the omission. As you can imagine, Hula Girl is not happy with me not paying attention to her for 7 months!

I explained to her that she was missed and that I would try to pay more attention to her. So we retook the photo's.

44650

44652

Aloha,
glad to see you back on the forum. While you were building,..... I was looking for your daily updates.
I'm working on my bodywork now.....using yours as an example. Thanks for all your posts.
Sorry to hear about your registration blues.

but I'm also missing the hula girl!

I'm glad to hear that my posts were/are helpful. I've been checking into the forum from time to time to watch the builds. But I haven't posted as I have not really worked on the car and I didn't want my frustration to be contagious.

Did Hula Girl leave you for someone with license plates? Please say it ain't so!
We miss you . . . and her.

Thanks, maybe soon I'll have more build info to contribute.

I recommend Montana for an LLC & registration.

Can you share information on how it went in Montana?

Man your car is nice! Such quality work. Can you let us know what bikini top you decide on, I want to buy or make one also.

Thanks for the compliment! I had started on my version of a bikini top before I stopped in frustration over the registration. I have the front windshield frame section about done and was just starting on a rough draft of the fabric top. If the registration gets done the top will be my first priority.

--------------------------------------
BTW, what am I doing wrong, the photos won't display?

shinn497

08-21-2015, 10:57 PM

I want to see more of the car!

Bob_n_Cincy

08-21-2015, 11:37 PM

I want to see more of the car!
I should let Gary post a picture but I couldn't help myself.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44654&d=1440218212

shinn497

08-22-2015, 12:25 AM

That one was posted earlier before.

svanlare

08-23-2015, 02:45 PM

Ahhh, happy that Hula-girl is back! Good luck no the LLC

Aloha818

08-28-2015, 10:07 PM

I was successful in my workaround registration solution!!!!!!!

Paid extra, so the plates will arrive tomorrow (Saturday).

I will post some info in the registration portion of the forum, but for those that have been reading my thread here is the breakdown.

The state is Montana (mateo92065 was correct).

The benefits;

1) No sales tax
2) No receipts or proof of purchase of any components at all
3) No state inspection of any kind
4) No facing, organizing, scheduling or having to talk to any government agency/employee at all
(Worth twice the cost alone!)
5) No time off work
6) No planning your build around passing inspections
7) No time wasted building one way for inspections, then time to revert back to what you want
8) No anxiety during your build to have to deal with all the government crap and knowing it will be
Registered
9) Maybe less cost overall
10) The car is registered as a "2013 Factory Five 818S", the Vin is the one from FFR
11) The whole process can be accomplished in 4 days, from first email to plates in hand.
12) The 818 can be registered before your complete, plates in hand even for go cart stage

The Con's (maybe);

1) It cost me $1085 to set up the LLC so that the 818's ownership's state of residency is Montana
2) It cost me $358 for the registration and FedEx Saturday overnight delivery
3) It cost me $31 for Fedex to send the documents to the Attorney.
4) It cost me dinner to have a friend (badged officer, in my case a security guard) fill out the Vin ID form
5) The car will be registered in a foreign state
6) Insurance may be higher, don't know yet
7) You don't get to stand in line at the DMV and meet/talk to interesting people and government employees

Most 818 builders experience with registering their cars I've read on this forum are like horror stories. So much time, energy, and anxiety for a hobby is crazy!

I'm sure that in other states (probably not Hawaii), that once the 818 is legally registered in Montana, you can then register it in your own state easier without some of the crazy inspections/requirements.

I highly encourage this solution. Very easy, less time, and maybe less money. Plus, if enough people register out of state maybe those states will learn they are loosing revenue by making it so hard to register hobby cars. Vote with you wallet!

If your a regular poster on my build page and have specific questions, pm me.

So maybe I have two firsts, the first with a registered 818 in Hawaii and the first to register an 818 in Montana?

bbjones121

08-28-2015, 10:24 PM

Congrats!!!

AZPete

08-28-2015, 11:10 PM

Congrats and probably lots of gratitude from future 818 builders for finding this pathway.
Another downside is Hula Girl will want a cute cowboy hat and sequined boots to go with the MT plate.

Tamra

08-29-2015, 03:25 AM

Congrats!!!

Frank818

08-29-2015, 06:10 PM

YES!!! When are you planning your first street drive? :)

Aloha818

08-29-2015, 09:50 PM

Thanks all for the congratulations!

44970

I have driven it about 40 miles so far, keeping an eye in the rearview!

I need to nail down the insurance now before I really drive it. I needed the Vin number.

44971

MT let me keep the FFR ID number as the Vin.

Now that I have cleared this hurdle I'm re-energized to continue to work on it. Started the tedious process of wet sanding and polishing the paint. Pics and info as soon as I figure out why my pics don't show, only links.

Flamshackle

08-30-2015, 04:50 PM

Congrats! So stoked it all worked out in the end.

08-30-2015, 05:50 PM

Good to ear congratulation

Aloha818

08-30-2015, 08:08 PM

Thanks again all for the congratulations!

Now I can go back to work on it!

I'm going to revisit my wiring by adding in the InfinityBox system developed for the 818, just actually ordered it today. The main reason is to clean up the harness some more, and for push button start. I hate keys! They are a contributing sponsor, Jay is even answering some of my questions today on a Sunday. I wouldnt have asked them till tomorrow if I thought he would feel obligated to answer them on the weekend.

I think I have the wet sand/polish/wax technique worked out. Black is the worst color to color sand, takes some practice to eliminate swirl marks. When I figure out why my pics don't load in the post I'll start sharing. The first panel came out great and it was my worst one with some dust in the clearcoat. The rest of the panels look good enough so I will work them in around the more important items that I need to take care of to actually drive it more comfortably.

First up is to raise the ride height. Right now the frame is about 4" from the road, going to see how it is at 5", right now the bottom drags on the tops of some local speed bumps.

I also ordered some parts to get back on the bikini top.

It amazing how much better your attitude can be when you know your effort is no longer in vain!

Aloha818

09-05-2015, 10:41 PM

I have spent the last few evenings and almost all day today adjusting the ride height and shimming out the lower control arms.

I now have 4 1/2" inches from the bottom of the side sails/frame, front and back, on both sides.

To get started on adjusting the ride height I started by adjusting all the spring bases to 1 1/2" down from the top of the adjustment sleeve to the bottom side of the adjuster. I ended up with the drivers rear adjusted to 1" and the drivers front to 1 1/8" and the passenger rear to 1 1/4" and the passenger front to 1 3/8". It really is a lot of work without a lift!

Thanks to all that have posted about adding the 1/2" aluminum spacers on the LCA, just what I needed to center the front tires in the wheel well and this pushed the tire far enough forward and outward to almost eliminate any tire rub. I also cut down some of the upper control arm threaded portion and some off of the large adjusters. I should have enough room to finish the alignment.

I also found a few things I forgot to button up, so made a pass over all the bolts for tightness.

Took it out for a 30 mile shake down run. Much better ride, no banging on speed bumps, and feels so much more solid. Now to take it in for a real alignment. I've got it pretty close, but needs a professional!

And as promised, a couple of beach shots.

45114

45115

45116

bbjones121

09-05-2015, 11:58 PM

Looking good

Aloha818

09-07-2015, 12:12 AM

One of the big jobs I have left to do is to "cut and buff"

Most of my panels came out pretty good. Some better than others, as far as specs of dust and orange peel go. My rear deck lid was the worst. In the paint both that day I was spraying quite a few panels and the deck lid was just a little too close to the side of the booth. I got just a touch wide with the gun on the last coat of clear and stirred up dust from the wall and it fell onto the panel.

Black is the worst color to sand and polish, so I figured I would start with this panel and perfect my process. If I screwed it up it was the worst panel anyway and small.

I get my supplies from the local auto paint supplier, the sand paper is higher quality also.

45136

I knock down about 80% with the 1500 grit, going slow and consistent. Also, it's very easy to let the sandpaper slide over an open edge and be down to the paint in an instant. Best cover all corners with tape first. One wrong move, or sand a touch too much and sand past the clear into the color, and the panel goes back to the paint booth!

45137

You have to sand a little at a time wet, then dry to see how far you've come and how far to go. This is my favorite wet sanding block/pad.

45138

Then the whole panel to 100% with 2000 grit.

45139

Until you've seen this done, or done yourself, you think there is no way it could ever look good again. But after using 3M three stages of compounds and pads (each compound matches its own buffer pad, pics later). Presto!

45140

bbjones121

09-07-2015, 12:28 AM

Wow, that panel is smooth as glass.

shinn497

09-07-2015, 12:57 AM

This is by far the most beautiful 818. I wish the double hoops were standard . One can dream right.

AZPete

09-07-2015, 08:25 AM

Thanks for the cut & buff tips!

Aloha818

09-13-2015, 09:31 PM

Wow, that panel is smooth as glass.

Thanks! I will start on the rest of the panels after I finish the rest of the odds and ends.

This is by far the most beautiful 818. I wish the double hoops were standard . One can dream right.

Wow, thanks for the compliments! On the double hoops I have to agree, at least for my intended use. I think it was my best modification.

Thanks for the cut & buff tips!

I know most auto guys probably know this stuff. But a couple years ago I didn't, so I try and mention what I think would be helpful. Sometimes a reminder is good too, especially about taping up the corners, almost sanded through once by accidentally not paying attention and let the back side of the paper drag a corner.

Another tip. As I have started working on the car again I can't believe how many "mistakes" I've found. So far nothing life threatening, but errors none the less. Some new ideas on how to put these cars together I've gotten from everyone here postings, some just missing or loose bolts, unprotected plumbing, etc. Probably good just by fresh eyes.

Biggest "mistake" I found was on my intercooler pump. I bought the Bosch unit and it came with an electrical connector. I never paid much attention, obviously, when first installed. The connector supplied had a red lead and a black lead for power. So I blindly connected red to hot and black to ground. Upon driving and checking temps with my infrared thermometer I wasn't finding a big difference between in and out of the intercooler. The pump was running, just backwards! The supplied connector must have been sourced by the supplier from another application as the Bosch unit clearly identifies + and - differently. After I corrected the pump wiring it isn't pumping. I guess running it backwards for so long messed up the pump section as the motor is still running. Another one on the way.

As I am running a stock 2.2 engine with high (for turbo use) compression with a turbo, I'm concerned with intake temps. So as an added protection I am installing a couple of 6.5" fans on the intercooler heat exchanger. I'll have to play around with how I want to control them, but at least I have them mounted. Kind of hard to see in the pics, but fit perfectly on the exchanger.

45408

45409

I'll try and post a drive video in a week or so after I have the intercooler pump working. I changed out the coil and injectors this weekend (donor was +150k miles), a noticeable improvement. So while still cool I took a quick drive. This is wicked! I'm in a city environment and didn't want to drive up to the interstate and heat everything up so I didn't have much road to get up to real speed. But nailing it up through second gear was a blast! At WOT the trans didn't shift till 6500rpm red line. Awesome. The exhaust made wonderful noises too.

Jo3sh

09-14-2015, 05:18 PM

Aloha818

09-14-2015, 11:50 PM

Since you were discussing Montana registration a couple of weeks ago, I thought I'd post this link I stumbled on today on Jalopnik:
http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/the-pitfalls-of-the-montana-license-plate-scam-1711216059

It's not my place to tell you what to do, but I think you ought to be aware so you can form your own informed opinions. I do feel like the Montana dodge falls into the "too good to be true" category, myself.

Jo3sh, thanks for commenting.

I'm not sure where you are coming from, as a car builder is concerned, but since you have only 12 posts can I assume you have not built your own car yet?

My point is, that until you do, you cannot fully understand the pain required to deal with different states BS to get these cars registered. In my case, it had nothing to do with safety, money, or a lottery. As the local agent told me, if it was a FFR Cobra no problem, but not the 818 because it is not a replica.

Your link is commenting on people registering their vehicles in Montana for the purpose of avoiding taxes. There is a difference between avoiding taxes and evading taxes, each person would need to check with their accountant on how to be in compliance. The link also mentions people making false statements, always a no no. I wish I had known about this before for my motorhome. I had registered it in TN, but I kept it on the west coast. No one ever asked out there about the registration.

As the 818 is not a daily driver, but a sport/race/show car, it is common for these types of cars to be towed/driven to other states for that purpose.

But what I'm excited about today is that in January Hawaii told me they wouldn't register the 818 and offered no solution to do so. Today the LLC received the title! Yea! So no "too-good-to-be-true" here, it's reality!

45440

Great news, as you can see, is no kit car or other year, name, etc, with the FFR# as VIN. Straight up 2013 Factory Five 818s Roadster, how cool is that! (BTW, PC under "vehicle type" is abbreviation for Passenger Car)

FYI, unless something changes as to the status/question about the 818's state of registration, this will be my last comment. It is after all my "build" thread. Registration behind me, onward to finish and have fun!!!

Jo3sh

09-15-2015, 12:16 AM

Your link is commenting on people registering their vehicles in Montana for the purpose of avoiding taxes.

It was partly about that, yes, but I know already from reading this thread that your reason was different. More cogent, though, was the author's opinion as an attorney that using a Montana LLC to register a car for use elsewhere is probably illegal in those other places, and that insurance companies might insure you, but might also use the Montana thing as a reason to deny any claims.

Again, I am honestly not trying to tell you what to do or how to do it. I saw the article, recalled this thread, and thought you might like to see it. I apologize if I overstepped. Like you, I'll say no more about it.

billjr212

09-15-2015, 09:03 AM

It was partly about that, yes, but I know already from reading this thread that your reason was different. More cogent, though, was the author's opinion as an attorney that using a Montana LLC to register a car for use elsewhere is probably illegal in those other places, and that insurance companies might insure you, but might also use the Montana thing as a reason to deny any claims.

Again, I am honestly not trying to tell you what to do or how to do it. I saw the article, recalled this thread, and thought you might like to see it. I apologize if I overstepped. Like you, I'll say no more about it.

Regarding the taxes, this is easily covered by self-assessing use tax if appropriate and remitting to the state. I believe Hawaii has this, but Aloha can confirm locally. It used to be 4%. Many states, including Illinois, have this concept in place. Essentially, any time you buy something out of state and bring it back home to use it, you should be self assessing use tax. The *wink wink* used in the article was a reference to this. His comment about the IRS highlights why non-tax attorneys need to avoid commenting on tax matters (and tax people need to avoid commenting on legal issues, of course :D ). The IRS has nothing to do with any of this. State tax avoidance aspect solved by paying the appropriate use tax.
http://files.hawaii.gov/tax/legal/info/use_bro.pdf

As far as the insurance side, as long as you tell them the address where the vehicle is housed, where/how it is used, and how many miles it is driven annually, there is no misrepresentation. Where a vehicle is registered should be irrelevant. Luckily, we have a vendor on here now that is from an insurance company, so maybe he'll weigh in to confirm, or someone can post directly to him if they are concerned about this.

(I'm a CPA, not an insurance agent, so only half of my comments above come from an informed place. ;) )

FFRSpec72

09-15-2015, 10:06 AM

Congrats on the title, big step forward !

Aloha818

10-16-2015, 12:13 AM

I had a couple great weeks running around in the car while I waited for wiring parts to come in. It's really fun to have a one only car! In a quick 20 minute drive I probably got flagged down 5 times asking about the car.

But since I'm a glutton for punishment the car is torn down to change out the wiring. No real issues, but I couldn't sleep knowing the harness wasn't perfect and so much unused stuff.

Since I do not have constraints on emissions, either visually or electronically no reason to keep the stock ECU. So I'm installing a Haltech Sport Platinum 1000. The reason for the choice is that the tuner at the shop that has the only dyno I found on island likes Haltech.

Then since the stock ECU is out and requires less interaction to the main harness, no reason to keep the main harness and fuse boxes either.

I originally bought the 818 specific wiring system from the site sponsor Infinitybox. I was really excited to receive the unit and see how this newer technology works. Prior to placing the order I asked Jay about lead time, he replied with 2-3 weeks, so I ordered that day. After weekly emails checking on the order I had to give up after 6 weeks. Maybe next time.

So I went ahead and ordered the 26 circuit off road harness from Painless through Summit Racing and had it in 2 days.

I'm pretty close on completing the ECU portion of the Haltech install. All connectors are labeled, soldered, shrink wrapped and covered with Techflex braided sleeving. The Haltech can control both radiator fans at different temps, like the stock unit, and can also control my added pair of intercooler fans, independently. The challenge will be how well my 4EAT TCU will like the transplant. Another can of worms possibly.

Real work is intense this year so I'm relegated to mainly just Saturday's. But here are some progress pics.

46649

46650

46651

46652

Mitch Wright

10-16-2015, 06:08 AM

Nice work.

STiPWRD

10-16-2015, 07:30 AM

Very nice! I suppose the fun never really stops, does it?

Hindsight

10-16-2015, 08:11 AM

Looks very nice! Do you think that braided loom provides adequate protection from heat and chemicals in the engine compartment? I've been wanting to use it because it looks so clean but have been leaning toward using nylon corrugated split loom for the engine compartment (for added protection against heat and chemicals) and the flex braid for the interior.

Looking at all the loom and tape you removed from the OE harness brought back memories. After removing ALL of mine, it filled a large kitchen garbage bag and must have weighed 10 or 15 lbs.

Aloha818

10-16-2015, 11:12 AM

Nice work.

Thanks!

Very nice! I suppose the fun never really stops, does it?

The 818, The Gift That Keeps Giving! Plus with more builders, more ideas and more products = more upgrades!

Looks very nice! Do you think that braided loom provides adequate protection from heat and chemicals in the engine compartment? I've been wanting to use it because it looks so clean but have been leaning toward using nylon corrugated split loom for the engine compartment (for added protection against heat and chemicals) and the flex braid for the interior.

Looking at all the loom and tape you removed from the OE harness brought back memories. After removing ALL of mine, it filled a large kitchen garbage bag and must have weighed 10 or 15 lbs.

I'm hoping the braiding is adequate. I'm using Techflex F6. It's nice since it is split, so to add/change I'll only need to just re-tape the joints. Since the overlap at the split is so much you don't have to tape every few inches to hold it together like the corrugated type. According to their specs, petroleum and salt water have no effect and is rated for a continuous high temp of 257 degrees.

Aloha818

10-18-2015, 01:52 PM

Thanks again to everyone that maintains a build thread and those that comment. Now that I'm starting my wiring all over again reading everyone's threads really helps. I rarely comment on other threads, mainly because I'm afraid of giving wrong advice, not that I don't appreciate the posters.

If I wasn't doing everything wrong (2000 donor, Auto, EJ222, etc) it would sure be easier to use the iwire service as is seems everyone is happy with their work. But since I'm a glutton for punishment I'm sticking with trying to perfect what I have.

I finished the engine harness part of the Haltech install. My original plan was to get the engine running on the new ECU first before I started on rewiring the rest of the car, less problem solving all at once. But looking at what my new layout was going to look like it would take too much time to move stuff around again later, so out everything came.

46700

46701

Besides the main harness and fuse panel from Painless I bought a bunch of odds and ends from wiringproducts.com

46702

Started at the battery with the main power lines. I cut the battery connector off the FFR supplied cable to the starter and installed in my bling battery post connectors. As you can see in the pic I have the battery grounded to the frame. Then I have a (+) and (-) 8 gauge set going to a aluminum panel behind the drivers seat.

46703

This aluminum panel will be the main power distribution. I have the 8 gauge wire (+) from the battery connected to a 70 amp fuse. The alternator will be connected to the unprotected side of the fuse. The Painless fuse panel and the Haltech will be connected to the protected side of the fuse through the automatic reset breakers. The Haltech has its own fuse/relay box.

I have the 8 gauge (-) wire from the battery connected to a post that is installed through the aluminum panel into the frame with a rivenut. ALL ground wires will terminate here with the exception being the engine which has the ground strap.

In reading hindsights thread bob made a comment about grounding to frame and sensors getting different readings. Grounding is more important than many think, glad I read bob's comments as it made me think!

The Haltech does not directly ground anything to the engine, like the stock harness does. Obviously some sensors "read" through the ground of the engine.

The Haltech controls the fuel pump, ignition, injectors and itself ECU, and in its fuse box has fuses and a relay for each of those 4 functions. I have that mounted under the engine cover so fuses are more easily accessed.

The row of 4 automatic breakers will be connected to the protected side of the fuse. One breaker will supply ignition switched power, 2 will supply non-switched power, one for a spare for now. The breakers are 40 amp. All power distribution will be through these 4 breakers. Since the aluminum panel behind the seats is harder to access is the reason I went with automatic reset breakers.

46704

The single relay is for my ignition. I hate keys, so my 818 will employ another, non posted, means of security. My "security" will cut the power to this relay and I have a Honda S2000 push button for starting. Hope my plan pans out!

Hindsight

10-18-2015, 01:58 PM

Aloha818

10-18-2015, 02:41 PM

Making good progress and looking great.

When you bolted your ground to the frame, you sanded off the powder coating where the lug contacts the frame, and you used a bolt all the way though the frame instead of a rivnut right? Hard to tell from that pic.

I just used a rivnet, I did not sand off any powdercoat. The rivnet balloons against the steel from the backside and should give plenty of connection. Before I tore everything apart I only had the one ground there at the battery, without an apparent issue. Now I have twice the connection, for good measure and to make a single point of grounding for battery/frame/devices.

Do you think this poses an issue?

Hindsight

10-18-2015, 07:20 PM

Oppenheimer

10-19-2015, 04:47 PM

Notes for anyone that stumbles into this thread:

...and if it were me, wherever I sanded anything off, I would apply some conductive grease between the now bare metal and whatever I'm bolting to it, to prevent a good ground from going bad.

Many will say to use dielectric (non-conducting) grease. But I want all the conductivity I can get. I want the grease to perform 2 functions, prevent corrosion, aid conductivity.

Likewise, if I were to use the rivnut ground, with its contact on back of uncoated frame where it mushrooms out, I would coat the rivnut with grease first.

Lastly, Aluminum is not a good conductor. It used to be used in house wiring, now its illegal (heats up and causes fires). So an AL rivnut is not an ideal ground point, nor is running ground through any of the kits AL panels.

Scargo

10-19-2015, 06:11 PM

I think this is good advice. I think good multiple grounds are needed and should be balanced relative to their local power draw. Grounds to aluminum parts exist on cars but since I had aluminum wiring arcing in my home (around 1972) I know it can be a problem as it oxidizes and gains resistance.

Canadian818

10-19-2015, 06:31 PM

Aloha818

10-19-2015, 09:55 PM

Yeah personally I would suggest doing away with the rivnut there. I'd just drill it out and take the hole through the other side of the tube, stick a bolt through, sand off the powder coat and bolt the lug on. You are only getting contact where the rivnut hits the lug which is small (since the rivnut raises the lug above the tube) and there probably isn't that much contact area from the rivnut on the inside of the frame and I wouldn't bank on it being a very reliable connection. That's just me though. Have solved a lot of car issues over the years by ensuring rock solid grounds. I luck as much surface area contact as possible.

Notes for anyone that stumbles into this thread:

...and if it were me, wherever I sanded anything off, I would apply some conductive grease between the now bare metal and whatever I'm bolting to it, to prevent a good ground from going bad.

Many will say to use dielectric (non-conducting) grease. But I want all the conductivity I can get. I want the grease to perform 2 functions, prevent corrosion, aid conductivity.

Likewise, if I were to use the rivnut ground, with its contact on back of uncoated frame where it mushrooms out, I would coat the rivnut with grease first.

Lastly, Aluminum is not a good conductor. It used to be used in house wiring, now its illegal (heats up and causes fires). So an AL rivnut is not an ideal ground point, nor is running ground through any of the kits AL panels.

I think this is good advice. I think good multiple grounds are needed and should be balanced relative to their local power draw. Grounds to aluminum parts exist on cars but since I had aluminum wiring arcing in my home (around 1972) I know it can be a problem as it oxidizes and gains resistance.

Thanks guys for commenting! Glad my ramblings are interesting enough for your comments.

If I had the tools I would weld a stainless threaded rod to the frame in a couple places and ground to it. Less time till the connection would deteriorate. But all connections, under various environments, will eventually degrade. In my wiring I have the battery grounded to the frame, via rivnuts, in two places. With all the wiring directly connected to the 8 gauge wire from the battery, with the exception of the engine/starter. The general wiring is not dependent on the rivnut connection. The starter is dependent on the rivnut connection, and every starting amp draw should refresh the connection. This conversation has got me curious. When I'm done I'm going to check the connection for heat under starting operation.

Aluminum is actually a good conductor. Not quite as good as copper as you need a larger diameter aluminum cable to carry the same load as copper. Most new construction utilizes aluminum wire for the main electric service. One of the main reasons there were so many problems back in the 70's-80's (?) was that aluminum needs to be terminated differently than copper as the aluminum expands and contracts more under load (heat). In thin wire, like in residential romex, the wire is also more brittle and tended to break when bent in tight a radius like a junction box.

Aloha818

10-19-2015, 10:17 PM

Been awhile since I had a good read of your thread. You got my wheels turning thinking about wiring. Since I'm also using a separate harness for the motor, I wonder if I'd be better off going with a painless harness versus stripping away the chassis side of my Subaru harness. Do you feel the painless harness you got was the best choice? Would you change anything?

Oh and congrats on the registration, however I have a feeling you were missing the actual building of the car once you started driving it.

I purchased the part #10140. Just a bit over $500. There are some less expensive options, but I liked the waterproof cover. I'm still getting into it, so I can't give you a final answer yet, but I can't see any downsides. As long as you know what you need to connect to the ECU the rest is easy. And will defiantly be cleaner and less trouble trying to figure out what you need to keep and lengthening all the short wires. The fuse box is much more user friendly and organized. All the wires are good quality labeled along the entire length and a good instruction manual.

Thanks on the registration! I had planned to work with what I had to get the 818 finished and running and then go back and update what was lacking. After Hawaii said they wouldn't register the car I lost heart. Now I'm more excited than ever to modify knowing it's not in vain.

I have a date with the dyno on Nov 11. So I have to get busy and finish the wiring, again!

I am installing the fuse box in the aluminum cap I made for the center tunnel. This on the vertical piece against the front firewall. Not in the pic is the "floating" gauge cluster that is forward and under the front of the dash.

46715

Aloha818

11-07-2015, 11:22 PM

Slow going right now. Real work is killing me and I get about 6 hours on Saturday to work on the car. But I'm feeling good on what I am getting done. Trying to make sure all the little odds and ends are done along the way now.

Ran over to the company shop today to wrap the tunnel pieces with leather

47340

I spent a lot of time laying out the harness and splitting the wires in groups to go to the various areas of the car and wrapping the groups with flex-wrap. So now the harness and fuse block is in, wires pulled to the various areas, and started terminating. Rear lighting is done along with most of the mid area, including ECU, intercooler pump, fuel pump, fuel gauge, keyless ignition and start button.

47342

47341

Much cleaner now, and so far I understand the purpose of each wire and that it is required.

Taking too long though, going to have to push my dyno appointment.

Hindsight

11-08-2015, 09:56 AM

Wow, your wiring is coming along much faster than mine.

Love the leather covering. What kind of spray adhesive are you using?

Aloha818

11-08-2015, 01:23 PM

Wow, your wiring is coming along much faster than mine.

Love the leather covering. What kind of spray adhesive are you using?

Thanks. It looks like I'm going to get some time to work on the car today, I'll get the adhesive info. Its commercial grade that is used in a cabinet shop. Holds better than anything easily available (like Lowes/Home Depot, etc) and doesn't release with sunlight or heat.

flynntuna

11-08-2015, 01:25 PM

Have you made any progress on designing your top?

Aloha818

11-09-2015, 10:02 PM

Here is the contact adhesive I'm using for my faux leather

47486

I spent about 4 hours yesterday (Sunday) on the wiring. Spent the whole time sorting out/installing wiring for the fans. The Haltec ECU I'm using has outputs (DPO's) to control various items. I'm using 2 for the radiator fans and 2 for the intercooler fans. I will be able to program each to cycle off and on at different temperatures. But a lot of work to organize the relays!

47487

I haven't read any posts about anyone adding fans to the water-to-air radiator to help disparate heat more efficiently. But it's got to help right?

Aloha818

11-09-2015, 10:04 PM

Have you made any progress on designing your top?

Sorry no, next on the list after the wiring is complete and the engine tuned on the dyno.

Hindsight

11-10-2015, 08:36 AM

Thx for the adhesive info. Regarding fans, I am relying on my radiator fans to pull air through the AWIC front exchanger, just like how the OEM setup pulls air through an AC condenser which sits in front of the radiator.

Sgt.Gator

11-26-2015, 06:53 PM

Will your 4EAT TCU play well with the Halltech ECU?

Aloha818

11-27-2015, 01:48 PM

Will your 4EAT TCU play well with the Halltech ECU?

Sgt Gator, that's still the million dollar question.

Although the Subaru engine/trans lends itself to be a great platform for a mid engine car, everyone chooses a manual. And anyone that wants to use an aftermarket ECU in a Subaru with an auto can't because of the relationship between the ECU and TCU because of the way power is distributed front-to-back.

From everything I've read no one has been successful with an aftermarket ECU and the 4eat, but also not tried with just using a single set of axles like in the 818.

I'm a couple work days away from completing the new wiring for the car and then I can start the process of trying to fire up the engine with the new ECU. The tech that I purchased the Haltech from swears that all I need to do is to connect the TCU to the TPS (same as stock) ground and power. That's my first step.

Haltech also sells a unit that will mirror the engine inputs and feed to the stock ECU (would need to keep also) which in turn would be connected as stock to the TCU (but not any outputs to the engine). If this fails I might have to go to a manual.

Sgt.Gator

11-28-2015, 12:55 AM

Aloha818

11-29-2015, 10:54 PM

One member on the LGT forum suggested "use stand alone trans control unit like megashift from megasquirt"....Or go full manual control: "Or do even more basic with 2-3 micro switches and a ratchit shifter and you will have full manual control auto".

I just finished replacing the factory wire harness/fuse box/relays etc. with Painless and all new engine wiring to the Haltech, and spent part of today labeling the cut wires from the TCU to the old harness. I'll know soon what challenges I have.

Thanks for posting.

Aloha818

11-29-2015, 11:10 PM

This switch out on the wiring has been kicking my &@$! Taking a lot of time trying to merge a 2000 Subaru in an 818, with a 2004 instrument cluster, with an aftermarket ECU with a Painless Performance wiring harness. Of course changing to a keyless ignition, stop/start button, extra fans and relays for the intercooler, and completing some leather wrapping hasn't helped speed things along either.

But today I have finished all the wiring, except for integrating the TCU to the new wiring and then programming the new ECU and first start.

Everything is connected and works, down to the new keyless ignition and stop/start button and stereo. I'm happy with how my "floating" stereo/gauge panel turned out.

Backside and in tunnel pic
48173

Front view
48174

Side view
48175

Out with the old
48176

I have about 6 wires to terminate from the TCU, then the process of learning for to program the new Haltech ECU with all my connections/devices, troubleshoot, load a startup program and see how it goes.

Since I've never worked with an aftermarket ECU I've got some learning ahead!

Hindsight

11-29-2015, 11:33 PM

Aloha818

11-30-2015, 03:36 AM

Nice work! The console looks great. What did you do for the CF covering?

Are you going to tune it yourself? If so, the forums over at RomRaider are very good. You don't have to be using RomRaider in order to learn a lot about tuning Subarus and EFI in general. I need to study it soon as well.

Thanks for commenting and the compliment.

It's a carbon fiber wrap, forgot what brand. I'll look this week.

I picked the Haltech as its the brand that the local dyno operator is familiar with. Hopefully I can get it running well enough to get it running and drive over to his shop to tidy up and dyno. But he will give me phone technical support if I need.

Thanks for the forum info.

Aloha818

12-13-2015, 02:05 AM

It seems like I have been rewiring the car for the last two years, but I looked back through my thread and it's only been two months. Really, wiring is the most time consuming, boring, mentally challenging, un-fullfilling part of the project. Part of me wishes I would have stuck with FFR recommended donor years, engine, manual trans, and vendor supported wiring harness.

But it has been a great learning experience and I really know and understand every wire, relay, fuse and switch.

I methodically went through each wire and connection and made sure each phase was routed properly and tested. Obviously I made a plan ahead of time with lots of notes and reading the Subaru wiring diagrams to understand how everything works.

I really love getting rid of the whole ignition switch and key! My new ignition switch, security and push button start button works perfectly. And no, it's not activated by a simple switch under the dash.

Last week I went through my pre start checklist. Made sure the starter only runs in park and neutral, and made sure you have to have your foot on the brake to switch the car out of park or neutral.

This morning I brought the laptop to my little shop and started programming the Haltech ECU. As I have never even seen an aftermarket ECU before I knew I had my work cut out for me.

So between following the supplied manual, and lots of google searches for info, I made it through the pre-start checklist, about 5 hours to this point. I pushed the button and first try started running!

It's not pretty, idle is low and running wayyyyyy rich. But it started and stays running, throttle responds, no bad sounds.

48552

I was so happy I went home. Tomorrow I will play with it some more, then off to a real tech to tune and put on the dyno.

That is if the auto trans likes the new ECU. Challenges, Challenges.

JeromeS13

12-13-2015, 09:38 PM

Voltage is awfully low for a running car....

bbjones121

12-13-2015, 10:19 PM

My voltage was really low also until I found out that the green/red wires from my steering column were tied into my fuse 11 (ECU,injectors, fuel pump,etc.). Whenever I switched my headlights on, it would blow the fuse and shut the engine off.

Aloha818

02-13-2016, 11:16 PM

Started back on the 818 last weekend. The year plus project I've been running (real job) turned over the last week of January and until then has taken away my play time.

After a few hours of fixing various issues, alternator charging (as noticed by JeromeS13), back-up lights, O2 sensor gauge, tach output to instument cluster, leaking fuel around sending unit, and learning how to use the software and tune the Haltech I was ready to tie in the transmission control unit (TCU) (4EAT auto) to see if it will work. I have played around with the Haltech enough to get the timing close, fuel close at idle, radiator fans set up along with my pair of fans for the water-to-air intercooler fans, and all gauges functioning.

50623

Today, following the Subaru wiring diagrams, I connected power, ground, back-up light, instrument cluster gear indicator lights, brake light circuit, dropping resistor, front wheel drive fuse, and throttle position sensor wiring to the TCU.

Started it up and selected reverse, and it drove backwards, selected drive, and it drove forward. Good first sign, no strange noises or anything out of the ordinary. Went ahead and drove it around the block, with only manually selecting and changing gears, worked fine, drove around again in drive, again nothing abnormal, shifted like normal through all the gears, but without getting into boost.

Tomorrow I will reinstall the firewall panel and the seatbelts and push it a little harder.

I do know the transmission is not happy, the TCU light stays on at idle and is flashing codes when moving. But since I have only fed it incoming information it cannot tell the ECU it's in distress.

The journey continues.

Hindsight

02-13-2016, 11:51 PM

Welcome back!

Aloha818

02-14-2016, 01:52 AM

Welcome back!

Thanks, congrats on your go cart achievement!

Bob_n_Cincy

02-14-2016, 02:14 AM

I do know the transmission is not happy, the TCU light stays on at idle and is flashing codes when moving. But since I have only fed it incoming information it cannot tell the ECU it's in distress.

The journey continues.

Hi Gary
Welcome back,
I have an 2004FXT/AT/TCU/cluster and 2005FXT/AT/TCU/cluster/ matching immobilizer/ECU/key.
Out of my 2 donors if you need anything.

On both my AT there was a canbus to talk to the ECU. So maybe that is why your light is coming on.
There is also some interaction between the TCU and ABS.
What year is your donor.
Bob

Aloha818

02-14-2016, 09:19 PM

Hi Gary
Welcome back,
I have an 2004FXT/AT/TCU/cluster and 2005FXT/AT/TCU/cluster/ matching immobilizer/ECU/key.
Out of my 2 donors if you need anything.

On both my AT there was a canbus to talk to the ECU. So maybe that is why your light is coming on.
There is also some interaction between the TCU and ABS.
What year is your donor.
Bob

Bob, thanks much for the welcome back and offers!

My donor was a 2000 Imprezza Outback. The Subaru all wheel drive and auto trans is pretty intelligent as factory. The TCU monitors the ECU and some engine funtions directly. Since it knows engine speed, vehicle speed, vacuum (this was a non turbo vehicle) throttle position and braking the TCU knows to shift power to the rear when vacuum is low, throttle is maxed and rpms are high because it knows you are going uphill. If vacuum is high, throttle is at min, and brakes are applied the TCU knows you are going downhill so if shifts power to the front wheels. Under hard throttle the TCU sends a signal to the ECU to cut power to the coil for a split second as the transmission up shifts to lighten the pressure.

In my application the TCU is only getting info from the TPS and brake input. On this model it blinks a code on the trans oil temp light on the dash. Basically letting me know its missing connections. But in all my driving the trans runs as it should, yea! After tuning I will change the TCU oil temp light to an actual temp sensor to get rid of the flashing.

That being said, I had a great day playing with the laptop and learning to tune. And of course driving!

I rechecked everything under the engine bay and reinstalled the panels and the firewall. Gave it a good wash and wiped everything down with leather/vinyl cleaner. (I'm in the heart of Honolulu so I can't drive around a dirty car) I have the engine running well enough that if I feather into the throttle I can run up the rpms into boost without going lean.

Really need to get to the tuner now before I blow this up! Crazy fun!

Anyway, here is a quick video on a back road.

http://youtu.be/6WvpTgJJpQY

Sgt.Gator

02-14-2016, 10:40 PM

Congrats!

Aloha818

02-15-2016, 10:54 PM

Tweaked the Haltech a little more to get by until a find new injectors and the Haltech boost controller comes in. By a couple online calculators I tried it looks like I need 450-500 cc flow injectors. The ones in my engine are 280cc. No sense wasting time on the dyno till I'm closer.

Somehow over my time away the windshield cracked, I'm the only one with access to the garage, don't know what happened. I read a 2000 MR2 Spyder works? Will try and get that done this week.

Worked a bit today on the door sill filler panels. I installed speakers in the side kick panel, so I used some sound deadening pads to line the area. I wrapped the aluminum with the same carbon fiber wrap I used on my center radio/gauge pod. Turned out pretty good, and made the stereo sound great. I'll take some pics in a day or two. Now I can take the car to a local upholsterer to get some custom carpet/floor mats made.

I used a 2006 windshield wiper motor, and Jerry rigged the electrical for testing, anyone have the electrical connector they aren't using I could buy?

Scargo

02-16-2016, 06:15 AM

Frank818

02-16-2016, 07:45 AM

OT: I wish I'd live in Hawaii. :D

Aloha818

02-16-2016, 10:42 AM

Look for blue 565 cc injectors. I'm assuming you are using top-feeds. They are all over Ebay for $150. I have some with low miles on them I would sell for less. I went to ID 1000's because of 500 (crank) HP tune. Putting ID 2000's in motor I'm building for the STi track car.:p

Scargo, thanks for the reply and offer. The stock injectors are Denso 2970030

50724

The WRX injectors look a little different. I have an email out to five o motor sports to see what they can do.
Or do you think the blue's will still fit?

Thanks!

Aloha818

02-16-2016, 10:50 AM

OT: I wish I'd live in Hawaii. :D

My home is still Nashville, I came over here 5 years ago for a 9 month project. I keep accepting more projects.

When I see the crazy weather on TV it confirms my continued choices.

My wife and I out for dinner the other night, we can do this every night, btw.

50727

STiPWRD

02-16-2016, 11:35 AM

Scargo, thanks for the reply and offer. The stock injectors are Denso 2970030

50724

The WRX injectors look a little different. I have an email out to five o motor sports to see what they can do.
Or do you think the blue's will still fit?

Thanks!

Those look identical to the blue top feed injectors Scargo is referring to. I had these in my 02 wrx but they r rated stock at 420cc, maybe in the later years they bumped it up to 565cc? I know that there are sti pink 565cc versions that people commonly swap in their wrx's. Either way the blue top feed injectors can be modded to higher flow rates but you'd have to research who still performs this service if you went that route. I had mine modded to 824cc but the company I used no longer does injector modding.

longislandwrx

02-16-2016, 03:06 PM

Light blue top feeds were 420s, darks are 565

I paid 200 for my 1000mi dark blues (565cc), so anything less then that is a good deal. DW used to pay 50 each for them so they were worth 200 a set, now they pay 40 each so they go for $160 :D

Scargo

02-16-2016, 04:15 PM

Yes, those are top-feeds and the (dark) blues will fit. What I have came off my EJ257 STi motor @17K and it says they are 565cc. #0580822 and I have a set #0580826.
If there is an issue at all it would be to change out the plug, but I kinda doubt it, since they're both for Subarus. When you get into Injector Dynamics and others they give you a rewiring kit for the connection.

Aloha818

02-16-2016, 10:54 PM

Thanks all for all your input.

As I mentioned earlier, I had sent a request to five o to see what they had that would be a direct replacement. Kirk there replied with a direct replacement and a flow rate of 550cc

50758

$365 including 2nd day air to Hawaii.

The Haltech boost controller I ordered should be in tomorrow. This weekend I should have everything installed and ready for the dyno. Should be interesting to see what you can get out of a stock 2.2 ltr, 9.5 compression, TD04, water to air intercooled, custom headers and exhaust, tuned engine.

Or maybe it'll just blow up!

longislandwrx

02-17-2016, 07:34 AM

Well if you can get it to 17psi and not blow up you should be making good power. Can you get 93 octane in Hawaii?

Scargo

02-17-2016, 05:19 PM

Aloha818

02-17-2016, 06:59 PM

OMG. I think your engine may be an accident looking to happen with much boost. I was doing a little looking and I am assuming you have hypereutectic pistons. Please keep the boost down and octane up. Be sure and have this conversation with your tuner.

The maximum boost with premium fuel is 6-7lbs of boost on this engine. If I need more I can add methanol injection and run up to 10lbs.

The compression ratio is 9.5:1. So even though boost is limited I have the advantage of higher compression and 10% larger displacement than the typical WRX.

I'm anxious to see what the dyno shows.

Scargo

02-18-2016, 05:45 AM

Perhaps I misunderstand. You have a EJ22 SOHC 2.2L from a 2000 Outback? Wikipedia says it should be an EJ251, a SOHC with 2.5L and 10:1 CR for that car.

longislandwrx

02-18-2016, 07:40 AM

Well if you can get it to 17psi and not blow up you should be making good power. Can you get 93 octane in Hawaii?

OMG. I think your engine may be an accident looking to happen with much boost. I was doing a little looking and I am assuming you have hypereutectic pistons. Please keep the boost down and octane up. Be sure and have this conversation with your tuner.

My comment was meant to be tongue in cheek, I wouldn't set you BC to 17.

before the WRX hit the US SCC magazine (mostly Shiv Pathak of Vishnu) built a turbocharged 99 2.5rs, It went through various types of management, but they ended up with a tec-2, 9.7 CR and 10psi of boost and around 300bhp.
This was 14 years ago when Subaru tuning was in it's infancy. I think you will be in good shape with a conservative tune.

Aloha818

02-18-2016, 11:25 AM

Thanks for researching and commenting. I should have mentioned it's an Impezza Outback, I guess they have Legacy Outbacks also.

My engine is the 2.2, SOHC, single port exhaust, 142 HP, 149 TQ as delivered. The early 2.0 WRX has 227 HP, 217 TQ.

I've added the same WRX TD04 turbo, custom equal length SS header/up pipe, no cat, flow through muffler and straight pipe out the rear panel. Fully tunable Haltech ECU, no emission requirements in Hawaii. I'm installing the new 550cc injectors and Haltech boost controller this weekend.

Since the only accessory is the alternator and I've installed just about every available modification without splitting the block, I'm hoping for 260-280 HP.

Since I am only running on my tuning ability (4hours self taught😬) and I know my stock injectors are too small, I keep one eye on the boost gauge and one on the O2 gauge and drive without going into boost.

This car is still crazy fast compared to other cars in traffic!

Aloha818

02-20-2016, 12:24 AM

I received the new fuel injectors from "fiveo". Great service, shipped the same day as ordered, arrived right on time via two day fedex.

50847

I installed them yesterday, input all the new values into the Haltech program, and fired it up. I had to tweak the fuel map a little to get the O2 close (I still don't know quite what I'm doing). I was flicking the throttle, watching all the gauges and looking at points on the fuel map, when all of a sudden the engine shut down, all the fans came on (was not up to operating temp yet for them to come on yet), and the MAP screen gauge was flashing red and showing a high boost condition had occurred, 22 psi.

I pulled the main battery fuse and called it a night. See if it would reset overnight. Which it did.

Not sure what actually happened, but I guess I'll stop flicking the throttle!

Tomorrow I'll install the boost controller and put all the covers back on and take it for a spin.

Anyone with any experience setting up the ECU for a boost controller? I want to at least get it somewhat close before it goes to the tuner.

Aloha818

02-24-2016, 01:48 AM

I have installed the new injectors and the Haltech boost controller. I ran by the dyno shop today to confirm a date for real tuning and time on the dyno. It must be nice to be the only game in town. Even though I bought all the parts from them the soonest they have a 4 hour window is March 18. I have to see if I can bribe the tech to come by my shop on his day off to get me close enough to drive it a little hard.

I joined the SCCA and I want to get in the next race to see what it's all about. They set up the race at the Aloha Stadium (same place as the Pro Bowl). I have 5 other work friends that race and they seem to be having a great time.

Scargo

02-24-2016, 06:39 AM

... I joined the SCCA and I want to get in the next race to see what it's all about. ... Nervous Nellie back again.
I am having trouble finding much about what you've done to the engine and what state it's in and especially the emission components area. At some point Subaru had to do a lot of emissions work and that stock system on the engine has been a source of many a broken ring-land when too many G's are exerted. If you know all this and have prepared for it then I will just shut up. It is well-discussed here in the forum.

Aloha818

02-24-2016, 11:22 AM

Nervous Nellie back again.
I am having trouble finding much about what you've done to the engine and what state it's in and especially the emission components area. At some point Subaru had to do a lot of emissions work and that stock system on the engine has been a source of many a broken ring-land when too many G's are exerted. If you know all this and have prepared for it then I will just shut up. It is well-discussed here in the forum.

Scargo, thanks for being Nervous Nellie!

As I have only seen one race and that was here, I'm not sure how much damage you could do. I don't think you can ever get above 50-60 mph and it only lasts a few seconds.

Obviously, since I have never raced before, it will take some time before I personally can push the car hard and will understand if I need to change engines. That's if it's interesting enough for me to pursue.

My engine has zero emission equipment. That's part of the reason I went to the Haltech because the old ECU didn't like I had all the sensors eliminated. The ports on the top of my heads, that previously had tubing connected to the intake, now only have a small filtered breather. So no chance of oil getting sucked into the engine. I understand I might need to put a catch can if/when I learn to drive fast enough for oil to try and escape.

I really built the car for fun and show, so no real energy has gone into race/performance. But who knows, maybe I'll get bit by the racing bug and might be back building an engine.

Although I am in the beginning process of building a stroker, ITB, and electronic ignition/fuel injected M110 engine for my 1969 Mercedes 230.

RM1SepEx

02-24-2016, 12:21 PM

Race= Autocross? Not a race but a timed driver skill event! Insurance verbiage 101 ;-)

Aloha818

02-28-2016, 10:32 PM

Race= Autocross? Not a race but a timed driver skill event! Insurance verbiage 101 ;-)

Spent part of yesterday and today playing engine computer programmer. Takes a lot of reading, comparing and researching to get the engine running safe. Very little actual specific information available. I guess the ECU manufactures need to protect their distributors and programmers. Of course, with so many variables it would be difficult to provide enough info to keep people from blowing their engines up!

I have a date with the dyno on March 18, but I'm impatient and am trying to get it tuned good enough to enter the "Timed Driver Skill Event" this next Sunday. (Thanks RM1SepEx for the correct verbiage)

After a 12 mile run up the H1 (I know, hard to believe an island can have an Interstate) the engine ran great, AFR's stayed below 14.7 in boost, as low as 10.8. But I can't tame the boost. Wants to run up to 10psi before I know it. Wicked fun too!

I'll have to call my tech for some advice tomorrow.

I was so concerned about watching boost, fuel maps, AFR's, temps, etc while driving that I forgot all about the Auto trans until I parked it in the garage. Then thinking back, it did everything it was supposed to do, so it never caught my attention.
Pretty excited about that, as I haven't found one post on any forum that supported a 4EAT with an aftermarket ECU, little lone only using the front drive axles.

Does anyone monitor their air temp sensor for what is a typical above ambient temp? It was sunny and 77 degrees this afternoon on my highway run, in and out of boost and the ATS was 95 degrees. I have Water to air intercooler and fans on its radiator.

RM1SepEx

02-29-2016, 08:19 AM

Add one of these for air to water: Mine is for AAIC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017C55LPO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Wayne Presley

02-29-2016, 10:57 AM

After a 12 mile run up the H1 (I know, hard to believe an island can have an Interstate) the engine ran great, AFR's stayed below 14.7 in boost, as low as 10.8. But I can't tame the boost. Wants to run up to 10psi before I know it. Wicked fun too!

I'll have to call my tech for some advice tomorrow.

I was so concerned about watching boost, fuel maps, AFR's, temps, etc while driving that I forgot all about the Auto trans until I parked it in the garage. Then thinking back, it did everything it was supposed to do, so it never caught my attention.
Pretty excited about that, as I haven't found one post on any forum that supported a 4EAT with an aftermarket ECU, little lone only using the front drive axles.

Does anyone monitor their air temp sensor for what is a typical above ambient temp? It was sunny and 77 degrees this afternoon on my highway run, in and out of boost and the ATS was 95 degrees. I have Water to air intercooler and fans on its radiator.

You should move your MAT sensor to after the intercooler, it's a much more important location that the MAF meter's location for the ECU to know if it needs to pull out timing. And target your AFR to 13 above 80 kPa, 12.5 above 100 kPa and 11.5 above 120 kPa.

Aloha818

02-29-2016, 11:17 AM

Add one of these for air to water: Mine is for AAIC http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017C55LPO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks for the link. But what would be a target rise in temperature, after the intercooler, when driving in and out of boost?

Aloha818

02-29-2016, 11:25 AM

You should move your MAT sensor to after the intercooler, it's a much more important location that the MAF meter's location for the ECU to know if it needs to pull out timing. And target your AFR to 13 above 80 kPa, 12.5 above 100 kPa and 11.5 above 120 kPa.

Wayne, thanks for taking time to reply to my thread!

Since I know I don't know what I'm doing, and could make a mistake on any one of the many many entries on the programming, I'm earring on the far side of caution with the fuel map. Especially since this NA original engine, now with turbo, is already an accident waiting to happen!

Here is the location of my ATS.

51142

Wayne Presley

02-29-2016, 11:35 AM

MAT you want as close to ambient as possible but since physics says you can't do that anything around 15-20°F above ambient is good. Overall keep it less than 135°F max.

Wayne Presley

02-29-2016, 11:36 AM

Wayne, thanks for taking time to reply to my thread!

Since I know I don't know what I'm doing, and could make a mistake on any one of the many many entries on the programming, I'm earring on the far side of caution with the fuel map. Especially since this NA original engine, now with turbo, is already an accident waiting to happen!

Here is the location of my ATS.

51142

OK, you want to err on the side that is rich, 11.5 or lower. 14.7 is way too lean under boost

Aloha818

03-08-2016, 12:21 AM

OK, you want to err on the side that is rich, 11.5 or lower. 14.7 is way too lean under boost

Sorry Wayne, I gave a poor example of my AFR's. At idle I was about 14.7, then down to 10 by the time I'm in positive pressure territory. Way rich I know.

Since this engine can only take 7 psi max (48kpa) 13 should be my low.

Safelite screwed me and pushed the install till today, so I couldn't pass tech to participate yesterday. I went ahead and had tech look the car over to make sure that would be my only issue, and it was. I had already registered so I did my track duties also. I have three friends that are all rookies too, it was fun watching, walking the track, and getting pointers from some of the more experienced participants.

Since this is only the second time I have been to a SCCA event I'm not sure if this is how they all are, but the cars ranged from a Prius to a new Covette tricked out with lots of goodies including a Supercharger. I'm going to be in the XP class (and rookie). Is this the tropical class?

51365

My tuner was at the event so I spent some time getting some more pointers. One of the cool features with the Haltech (probably others as well)is a tracer. You pick out a map, in this case the fuel map, and as you drive it traces a line through the cells your passing through. I spent 45 mins tonight playing around with it some, already pulled out 20% of the fuel from above 2500 rpm. Got it up to 12 under boost. Kinda fun playing around with this. Another couple hours and I should be able to clean up and smooth out the variables from cell to cell. Trying to get as close as I can before Dyno Day. Sorry for the crappy pic, too much sun and dusty screen.

51366

Almost forgot to mention, Sunday was the first day to actually have the car in an environment for car guys to see the 818. I think some of the guys were more disappointed than me that I couldn't run. I can imagine FFR got a few web hits yesterday, it was about 50/50 those that knew of the 818 and those that didn't. Overall I had only positive comments.

RM1SepEx

03-08-2016, 08:25 AM

Should be in EM class, XP is wishful thinking for a tube frame kit car. ;)

Wayne Presley

03-08-2016, 09:33 AM

Sorry Wayne, I gave a poor example of my AFR's. At idle I was about 14.7, then down to 10 by the time I'm in positive pressure territory. Way rich I know.

Since this engine can only take 7 psi max (48kpa) 13 should be my low.

Even at 7 psi 13:1 is way too lean. 11.5 at anything above 120 kPa...

Aloha818

03-08-2016, 11:08 AM

Should be in EM class, XP is wishful thinking for a tube frame kit car. ;)

Thanks for the reply. XP is where they put me, they didn't ask for my input. Should I ask to be put in a different class?

RM1SepEx

03-09-2016, 04:52 PM

http://cdn.growassets.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/011/828/2016_Solo_Rules_DRAFT_c_1-8-2016_reduced.pdf?1452294335

Around pg 137

From the 2016 Solo rules draft

18. MODIFIED CATEGORY
Sports cars and sedans altered in excess of Prepared Category, sports racing
and two-seat specials, Formula cars, single-seat specials, dune buggies,
and kit cars. Active Automatic Braking Systems (ABS) and Traction Control
Systems (TCS) are prohibited in Modified classes B (BM), C (CM), and F (FM).
Traction Control Systems are prohibited in Modified Class A (AM). Active Automatic
Braking Systems (ABS) and Traction Control Systems are prohibited
in Modified Classes D (DM) and E (EM),

draft c
2016 SCCA® National Solo® Rules — 137
18. Modified
d. Has no exceptionally high strength-to-weight ratio.
e. Has no other unique features that would upset the competitive balance
in DM and EM.
f. Has independently-verifiable evidence of at least 10 examples which
meet the approved specification produced. Extremely limited production
sports racer-type efforts are discouraged.
Constructed examples of approved kits are subject to the following:
a. They will automatically take the Modified Tub weight penalty (see
Appendix A).
b. They will have the same weight-displacement scales and weight bias
penalties as production-based cars.
c. They will be allowed all the modifications that production-based
cars are permitted.
d. They are subject to the same engine and transmission restrictions as
production-based cars.
e. They must meet the same safety requirements as production-based
cars.
A newly-added model is not eligible for the current year’s Solo® National
Championships unless its listing was published no later than the
July issue of the official SCCA® publication.
The list of currently approved models is as follows:
Factory Five Racing 818 (S & R)
2. Clones
Clones/replicas of SCCA®-recognized production cars are permitted to
compete in DM and EM provided they comply with the following requirements:
a. They are substantially similar to and recognizable as the original
manufactured vehicle on which they are based.
b. Their specifications do not violate any rule stated herein.
c. A clone shall not benefit from kit car manufacturer “running changes”
unless those changes have also been submitted and approved.
3. Other Models
The Panoz Roadster and Porsche 550 Spyder are eligible for competition
in DM and EM as a modified production-based car using the Modified
Tub minimum weights.
4. Specifications
Weight and displacement specifications are as shown in Appendix A.
B. Bodywork
1. Respecting Section 18.1.F: Aerodynamic Aids, bodywork may be modidra

Note, this is the same place that a Cobra is classed.

Bottom line, 818S & 818R are EM, no ABS or Traction control allowed

nkw8181

03-09-2016, 09:01 PM

good to know! thanks Dan

Aloha818

03-12-2016, 01:44 PM

Bottom line, 818S & 818R are EM, no ABS or Traction control allowed

Thanks for the reply and info. I have sent an email to the local SCCA and am waiting for a reply back.

The next and last event of this season is April 3.

Dyno tuning is this Friday, can't wait!

Mitch Wright

03-12-2016, 05:51 PM

Good luck and have fun.

Aloha818

03-13-2016, 12:25 PM

The reply back from the Hawaii SCCA is they are following the 2015 rules until the end of this season, which is April. So I will be in XP class for this one race. Then I will be moving into the EM class at the start of 2016 season this fall.

I bought a GoPro 4 Silver yesterday to get ready for the race. The video is pretty good but since the camera is encased in a waterproof case you can't hear much of the engine and just some clicking noises, I guess from the suction mount. So I ordered a remote mic and since I don't see any underwater filming in my near future I'll just cut a hole for the plug to fit through the case to the camera.

I do not have any experience with a GoPro, any advice? It is pretty cool that I can control it from my iPhone though.