Honolulu 818S Hana (work/build) Thread

[RM1SepEx]

I'm having a heck of a time getting the fenders to match up with the sides of the front clip and the fender side/wheel well and the short tips on the front edge where the hood and headlights match. I can get either/or to line up but not both. Did you have to relieve the body around the lights to about a 1/4 lip vs 3/8+ as it came from FFR?

[Aloha818]

I love being a critic. With all the great things you are doing to the bodywork, I have a few suggestions... that might make it even better looking.
Looking at the front (the first of the last three images), there are the vertical slits. I think you can improve on the full radiused ends. I suggest they more follow the body lines (above and below) and have four small radii more consistent with all the others on the car; perhaps no more than a 1/4".
For the two trapezoidal openings, which seem like they might be for brake ducts, what about eliminating the lip around the opening and have all those faces go straight back? I think that would give it a cleaner, more production molded, plastic look. Beef it up on the backside if you are worried about strength.
Keep up the good work and keep feeding us.

Scargo, thanks for weighing in, I love critic's! At least constructive criticism.

After I finish the hood and front fenders I'll start on the rest of the bumper. I like the idea of a little more detail to the "slots" than just the large radius ends. I made similar changes to the side opening in the rear quarters. Stay tuned!

The opening on each side of the center "grill" still need to be sanded and shaped, but like you suggested, will be straight back.

[Aloha818]

I'm having a heck of a time getting the fenders to match up with the sides of the front clip and the fender side/wheel well and the short tips on the front edge where the hood and headlights match. I can get either/or to line up but not both. Did you have to relieve the body around the lights to about a 1/4 lip vs 3/8+ as it came from FFR?


Dan, sorry your having issues! I also had a time getting everything to "work". Frustrating because it takes so much time to bolt everything together, just to find out you need to make another "adjustment" and repeat the remove/replace sequence. This design is a little clunky.

I made some notes here when I was working that section. But I had to sand to fit the bumper under the lights and a little on the fender above the light to get the light to fit better which helped close the gap at the hood/bumper/fender corner.

Hope this helps.

[RM1SepEx]

Just read the latest GRM... they had to do the same thing.... bolt, unbolt, tweak, adjust, repeat... whew... :o it's getting better. I do think that I figured out the tight hood to nose area... the hood flattens over time, if it has more curvature, it fits that area much better. Naturally when I curved it another gel coat void popped!

The rear area of the hood is a problem as well... Again curvature of the trunk lid needs to increase and the rear clip gap is larger in the middle than the edges. I think that the tension from the sides increases its curvature and it needs to be flatter! What fun, a big 3D puzzle

[metalmaker12]

I am still tweaking, spent a good 4 hours doing some body work and it does not seem like I did much. It's deff a pain to get just right.

[Aloha818]

Just read the latest GRM... they had to do the same thing.... bolt, unbolt, tweak, adjust, repeat... whew... :o it's getting better. I do think that I figured out the tight hood to nose area... the hood flattens over time, if it has more curvature, it fits that area much better. Naturally when I curved it another gel coat void popped!

The rear area of the hood is a problem as well... Again curvature of the trunk lid needs to increase and the rear clip gap is larger in the middle than the edges. I think that the tension from the sides increases its curvature and it needs to be flatter! What fun, a big 3D puzzle


I am still tweaking, spent a good 4 hours doing some body work and it does not seem like I did much. It's deff a pain to get just right.

Thanks for sharing your build info, seems like we are all having similar challenges!

I'm trying to post my progress with commentary and pics. I might not always make the right decisions, but at least some info for others to think about.

The more you make little moves, with some time between, with the panels sitting as much as possible in their correct final position, the better.

[Aloha818]

Now that I'm happy with how the hood through the bumper fit, time to glass in the steel brackets on the backside of the hood. These have been attached with 5 min epoxy, rated at 4,000 lbs. but to be safe and to spread the load a little I added some fiberglass
29148

The "critic" Scargo :) weighed in on my front bumper cut outs. I know, I'm going too slow and I need to get results. So the front cut outs were just roughed in to start getting an idea of the look. I had already finalized the rear quarter side vent openings
29149

With the plan that I would make the front bumper vents similar, when I got there. So today while I was waiting on fiberglass to setup I detailed out the side vents.
29150

Then as suggested by Scargo, I detailed out the openings on each side of the center grill.
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So what do you think so far? FYI, the rear quarter vents, side bumper vents, and the opening on each side of the center grill will get the FFR supplied mesh, no trim. I have already had them powder coated satin black. The center grill will get 1/2" x1/2" chrome stainless steel mesh. Similar to what Jaguar puts on their supercharged models.

I also spent some time grinding down the bumper/fender connection. Both sides on my kit were UGLY!. I had to dig deep into the fiberglass. There is also a big dip in the front of the fender on the flare area. First pass with filler didn't even make a dent in it. This same dip is on both sides, BTW.
29153

[longislandwrx]

great work and enviable patience!


If removing the rear vent did you consider just smoothing it all the way out? Or did you decide it would have been too flat and needed some detail?

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for sharing your build info, seems like we are all having similar challenges!


The more you make little moves, with some time between, with the panels sitting as much as possible in their correct final position, the better.

I'm feeling that this is the key... My rear hatch is "resting" in place right now with a gallon of "ballast" on both rear corners.

29160

I'm going to lower the inside front of my headlights a bit by lowering the buckets... perhaps that will get me that last 1/4 to make the front of the fender touch the front fascia

[wleehendrick]

So what do you think so far?

Looks great! I also powdercoated all my mesh satin black, and cut out my front side vents similar, but I extended them a little more vertically, so there's a near uniform lip all around.


The center grill will get 1/2" x1/2" chrome stainless steel mesh. Similar to what Jaguar puts on their supercharged models.


I'm not a big fan of chrome on modern cars; I was thinking something similar, but also satin black, like the grill on this CTS-V:

29178

[Aloha818]

great work and enviable patience!


If removing the rear vent did you consider just smoothing it all the way out? Or did you decide it would have been too flat and needed some detail?

Thanks for commenting. I don't know about patience, but I'm starting to see the end of bodywork coming!

My original thought was cutting the whole center out and making it all flat. But at the engine cover area, in the center, is a raised profile. That would mean I would have to cut all the way, maybe into, the flange to get the patch low enough. After thinking about it for a couple of days I decided I liked the profile of the area better than thought I would like a flat panel. I also have a spoiler going over too, so I think it adds a little design element to see the two lines of the profile coming out from under the spoiler.

But think I could like it either way.

[Aloha818]

I'm feeling that this is the key... My rear hatch is "resting" in place right now with a gallon of "ballast" on both rear corners.

29160

I'm going to lower the inside front of my headlights a bit by lowering the buckets... perhaps that will get me that last 1/4 to make the front of the fender touch the front fascia

That helps, also you really have to bend that piece of Z shaped metal support to shorten its effective length. It's about 3/8" or so longer than it needs to be. I almost made another to make it easier.

I noticed in your thread you have a piece of tube running side to side under the rear of the engine cover. It helped greatly on the fitment of the trunk lid to arch the tube/engine cover. By raising in the middle the rear corners of the trunk lid start coming down into alignment. Also, check the fitment of the hinges for the trunk lid with clearance for your tube steel support. On mine the hinge, in the open position, almost touches the bottom of the panels, no room for the tube. That's why on mine I'm bracketed to the crossbrace with the tube stopping short of the hinges.

[Aloha818]

Looks great! I also powdercoated all my mesh satin black, and cut out my front side vents similar, but I extended them a little more vertically, so there's a near uniform lip all around.



I'm not a big fan of chrome on modern cars; I was thinking something similar, but also satin black, like the grill on this CTS-V:

29178

First off, stay safe out there with the fires and protect the 818! And second, thanks for commenting.

Post a pic of your slots, I couldn't find any on your build thread. I could see cutting a little higher, not sure how to gauge cutting lower.

I like the grill in the pic, that's the mesh I'm talking about. I'm painting my 818 black metallic, the interior will be mostly black (except the red in the seats) my wheels are chromium black and all the FFR mesh I will be using is satin black. So my thought, currently, is that the chrome will add "bling" to the overall presentation. If not, I can always run it over to the powder coater. Also, since both Jaguar and Cadillac both use this type of material on their "inducted" versions, subliminally people will infer that my 818 is inducted.

[RM1SepEx]

I too had to bend the crap out of the z bracket... 3/8 is about right. I haven't bolted the angle for that purpose. We see that almost everywhere... no idea what one change might effect when you assemble the next piece..

Day off today, working 2 stroke racing kart carbs for an autocross Sunday... my wife's kart first, of course!

[metalmaker12]

Now that I'm happy with how the hood through the bumper fit, time to glass in the steel brackets on the backside of the hood. These have been attached with 5 min epoxy, rated at 4,000 lbs. but to be safe and to spread the load a little I added some fiberglass
29148

The "critic" Scargo :) weighed in on my front bumper cut outs. I know, I'm going too slow and I need to get results. So the front cut outs were just roughed in to start getting an idea of the look. I had already finalized the rear quarter side vent openings
29149

With the plan that I would make the front bumper vents similar, when I got there. So today while I was waiting on fiberglass to setup I detailed out the side vents.
29150

Then as suggested by Scargo, I detailed out the openings on each side of the center grill.
29151

29152

So what do you think so far? FYI, the rear quarter vents, side bumper vents, and the opening on each side of the center grill will get the FFR supplied mesh, no trim. I have already had them powder coated satin black. The center grill will get 1/2" x1/2" chrome stainless steel mesh. Similar to what Jaguar puts on their supercharged models.

I also spent some time grinding down the bumper/fender connection. Both sides on my kit were UGLY!. I had to dig deep into the fiberglass. There is also a big dip in the front of the fender on the flare area. First pass with filler didn't even make a dent in it. This same dip is on both sides, BTW.
29153


I am having all the same issues, you must have a lot of time to document this all and we all thank you for this.

[wleehendrick]

First off, stay safe out there with the fires and protect the 818!

Thanks, will do!


Post a pic of your slots, I couldn't find any on your build thread. I could see cutting a little higher, not sure how to gauge cutting lower.

I don't have access to it now; it's in my storage unit, which is under evacuation. I eye-balled how low to go; here's a photo-chop of your pic which approximates how I trimmed mine:

29185


I like the grill in the pic, that's the mesh I'm talking about. I'm painting my 818 black metallic, the interior will be mostly black (except the red in the seats) my wheels are chromium black and all the FFR mesh I will be using is satin black. So my thought, currently, is that the chrome will add "bling" to the overall presentation. If not, I can always run it over to the powder coater. Also, since both Jaguar and Cadillac both use this type of material on their "inducted" versions, subliminally people will infer that my 818 is inducted.

Yeah, all black might be a bit much.... A little bright-work can make it pop. Look forward to seeing it!

[WIS89]

I don't have access to it now; it's in my storage unit, which is under evacuation!

WLH-

Stay safe and take care of family and loved ones! I am so sorry that you all are experiencing this, and I would happily send thunderstorms your way if I could!

Here's hoping for minimal property damage and no more loss of life. You all will be in my thoughts!

Regards,

Steve

[wleehendrick]

Thanks, Steve!

[Aloha818]

I too had to bend the crap out of the z bracket... 3/8 is about right. I haven't bolted the angle for that purpose. We see that almost everywhere... no idea what one change might effect when you assemble the next piece..

Day off today, working 2 stroke racing kart carbs for an autocross Sunday... my wife's kart first, of course!


Keep working at it! Little moves end up making big changes.

[Aloha818]

I am having all the same issues, you must have a lot of time to document this all and we all thank you for this.

Metalmaker, thanks much for letting me know my comments are beneficial! Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following.

I don't have a lot of extra time per se, but my occupation as a manager allows me some flexibility to be around. Also, I only have to walk about 2000 feet to get to work and the garage (all across the street from the ocean, BTW) I'm building the 818 in is only about another block further. So basically I'm not spending 1-3 hours a day sitting in a car like a lot of others probably do. Translates into more time on the build!

So part of my motivation on posting (sometimes I think too much info) my progress is based on a lack of info coming from those ahead of me. My nature is a planner. Without meaning to criticize anyone, and I'm sure they had their reasons, but specific and critical information about the kit were lacking on the first major documented builds. It seams like one day they mounted the panels, a couple weeks later everything is painted and ready to bolt back on. Without the information on how much time it takes to get the body to a high quality, I greatly underestimated how long I should plan to get mine ready. Obviously FFR is not going to pay someone maybe 400 hours to really tighten up the body for show either, as that wouldn't translate well for prospective builders expectations to the kit they would actually receive. Again, I'm not knocking the kit, I'm perfectly happy with what I bought and the price paid. Just trying to keep expectations in the real world!

Anyway, I'm glad my progress is at least helpful, if not entertaining.

[Aloha818]

Thanks, will do!



I don't have access to it now; it's in my storage unit, which is under evacuation. I eye-balled how low to go; here's a photo-chop of your pic which approximates how I trimmed mine:

29185



Yeah, all black might be a bit much.... A little bright-work can make it pop. Look forward to seeing it!

Thanks for taking the time to photoshop!

There have been lots of "firsts" with the 818. Don't let yours be the "first" to go up in a ball of fire!

[Aloha818]

After spending the time to fabricate and install the brackets to hold the hood in place without hood pins, today was the day to make small adjustments. A little sand here and little grind there and now the hood basically falls into place and with a little pull forward all brackets engage. The design was also to keep the hood aligned side to side to hold the gap I still needed to create.

The returns on the hood start to flare out as it gets closer to the front and the shape is similar to the rear panels, really rounded with the gap tightening at the bottom.

I spent 7 hours today (as a reference of time) to clean up and even the hood gaps. First I ground everything down with 80 grit, then started adding filler. I got the gaps pretty close and the height of the hood to the fender is just about right on all the way except for about the last 18" from the headlights back.

In the pics you can see where I ended the day by laying down some filler to build up the low spot on the fenders.
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And just as I did on the rear panels, after I get everything flat, even and gapped, I will slightly round off the corners.

[wallace18]

You are doing some beautiful work. The end result will be worth it. Can't wait to see it painted.

[Wayne Presley]

Metalmaker, thanks much for letting me know my comments are beneficial! Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following.

I don't have a lot of extra time per se, but my occupation as a manager allows me some flexibility to be around. Also, I only have to walk about 2000 feet to get to work and the garage (all across the street from the ocean, BTW) I'm building the 818 in is only about another block further. So basically I'm not spending 1-3 hours a day sitting in a car like a lot of others probably do. Translates into more time on the build!

So part of my motivation on posting (sometimes I think too much info) my progress is based on a lack of info coming from those ahead of me. My nature is a planner. Without meaning to criticize anyone, and I'm sure they had their reasons, but specific and critical information about the kit were lacking on the first major documented builds. It seams like one day they mounted the panels, a couple weeks later everything is painted and ready to bolt back on. Without the information on how much time it takes to get the body to a high quality, I greatly underestimated how long I should plan to get mine ready. Obviously FFR is not going to pay someone maybe 400 hours to really tighten up the body for show either, as that wouldn't translate well for prospective builders expectations to the kit they would actually receive. Again, I'm not knocking the kit, I'm perfectly happy with what I bought and the price paid. Just trying to keep expectations in the real world!

Anyway, I'm glad my progress is at least helpful, if not entertaining.

I have 100 hours into my body work but since the painter did them I don't have any pics. Some of those hours were because it was going to SEMA and had to be perfect. And it is SEMA show quality paint job, 24 coats of paint and the paint is smoother than the windsheild. There was only trimming the lips to get the panels at the same height, spending time to make sure all the panels at the seams lined up properly and putting the body on in the proper order. The only mod to the body on mine was the edge of the back panel was filled to tighten up the trunk lid gap. The only little thing is the fender where it sits on the headlight, that lip needs to be .25" for most of the headlight and taper some at the point.

[metalmaker12]

You inspired me to make nicer lines and really make the body work stand out. A little trim here, fill there and it's looking much more oem. Thanks for the extra motivation. I feel ya Hana, I tried to document the best I could, but sometimes I just went to building and did not document it all. The mechanical side it's about 100-150 hours to get it rolling, install the aluminum , wiring etc, a driving cart. From a body work perspective I would say its a good 200-300 plus hours to get the body fitted and this car ready for paint. I think painting it will be the easy part. All the little tweaks, mounts we need to make to get over the factory cooler, the front fender rear support etc etc. If one did not paint it then it would be a 250-300 build, but it's more like a 400-500 hour build IMO.

If it went to a body shop to get fit on and painted it would be like 5-8k, just fill lines and fill imperfections and prime- finish would be like 3-5k, just spray the panels ( just clean and paint, already prepped and primed, sanded about 1,200-2,200 depending on type of paint etc. If you do paint all yourself it's about 1-2k in materials.

[Aloha818]

You are doing some beautiful work. The end result will be worth it. Can't wait to see it painted.

Wallace, thanks for the compliment. Your car looks great and I hope you don't mind that I stole your rear spoiler idea.

I can't wait for the day that I take mine around to car shows like you are!

[Aloha818]

I have 100 hours into my body work but since the painter did them I don't have any pics. Some of those hours were because it was going to SEMA and had to be perfect. And it is SEMA show quality paint job, 24 coats of paint and the paint is smoother than the windsheild. There was only trimming the lips to get the panels at the same height, spending time to make sure all the panels at the seams lined up properly and putting the body on in the proper order. The only mod to the body on mine was the edge of the back panel was filled to tighten up the trunk lid gap. The only little thing is the fender where it sits on the headlight, that lip needs to be .25" for most of the headlight and taper some at the point.

Thanks for jumping in Wayne!

And please do not take my comment about "lack of information from those ahead of me" as personal to you or anyone else. That's one of the great things I've found since joining the FFR family, little to no drama/ego/fights on the forum. No one has an obligation to post anything. I was kind of justifying why I post so much and that, like me, I'm sure others don't realize the time it takes to prep the body.

I have read your build quite a few times and I appreciate the time you spent posting. Thanks again. BTW, lots of you pic's on you build thread are gone, any plans to put them back?

[Aloha818]

You inspired me to make nicer lines and really make the body work stand out. A little trim here, fill there and it's looking much more oem. Thanks for the extra motivation. I feel ya Hana, I tried to document the best I could, but sometimes I just went to building and did not document it all. The mechanical side it's about 100-150 hours to get it rolling, install the aluminum , wiring etc, a driving cart. From a body work perspective I would say its a good 200-300 plus hours to get the body fitted and this car ready for paint. I think painting it will be the easy part. All the little tweaks, mounts we need to make to get over the factory cooler, the front fender rear support etc etc. If one did not paint it then it would be a 250-300 build, but it's more like a 400-500 hour build IMO.

If it went to a body shop to get fit on and painted it would be like 5-8k, just fill lines and fill imperfections and prime- finish would be like 3-5k, just spray the panels ( just clean and paint, already prepped and primed, sanded about 1,200-2,200 depending on type of paint etc. If you do paint all yourself it's about 1-2k in materials.

Metalmaker, thanks for posting this info. And I agree, the painting is the "easy" part. A little more stressful though, at least to me. So many things have to go right, all at the same time, for a great result. Prepping, if you make a mistake, add more filler, make a mistake on painting, and your whole day is ruined!

[Xusia]

Metalmaker, thanks much for letting me know my comments are beneficial! Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following.

I don't have a lot of extra time per se, but my occupation as a manager allows me some flexibility to be around. Also, I only have to walk about 2000 feet to get to work and the garage (all across the street from the ocean, BTW) I'm building the 818 in is only about another block further. So basically I'm not spending 1-3 hours a day sitting in a car like a lot of others probably do. Translates into more time on the build!

So part of my motivation on posting (sometimes I think too much info) my progress is based on a lack of info coming from those ahead of me. My nature is a planner. Without meaning to criticize anyone, and I'm sure they had their reasons, but specific and critical information about the kit were lacking on the first major documented builds. It seams like one day they mounted the panels, a couple weeks later everything is painted and ready to bolt back on. Without the information on how much time it takes to get the body to a high quality, I greatly underestimated how long I should plan to get mine ready. Obviously FFR is not going to pay someone maybe 400 hours to really tighten up the body for show either, as that wouldn't translate well for prospective builders expectations to the kit they would actually receive. Again, I'm not knocking the kit, I'm perfectly happy with what I bought and the price paid. Just trying to keep expectations in the real world!

Anyway, I'm glad my progress is at least helpful, if not entertaining.

Dude, your build posts have been downright awesome! I've been reading them in earnest with the blatant intention of stealing some tips, tricks, and techniques. Thank you so much for posting in such detail. It absolutely helps! :)

[skullandbones]

I've followed your thread and don't even have a build going. My wife and I love Hawaii so I'm waiting for go kart and later pics of your project on the island. I've only been there (Oahu) once. So I hope you progress and get that thing out of the garage! I also like the "spot the hula girl" game. Thanks for your detailed accounts. I agree that the planning is crucial. I think I've heard 30% of the total completion time should be spent on planning: minimum. I'm sure future builders (maybe me) will appreciate your efforts.

Thanks,

WEK.

[AZPete]

Hana, you wrote, "Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following". This thread has over 40,000 views! Lots of us are enjoying and learning and copying stuff. Please keep doing what you're doing.


Or, maybe it's just guys coming to drool over the Hula Girl. :eek:

[Aloha818]

Dude, your build posts have been downright awesome! I've been reading them in earnest with the blatant intention of stealing some tips, tricks, and techniques. Thank you so much for posting in such detail. It absolutely helps! :)

Xusia, I really appreciate that my effort in posting is a value to you guys and others. It also helps me keep track of the time I spend, kind of like a diary!

Copy away, let me know if you need info I neglected to post.


I've followed your thread and don't even have a build going. My wife and I love Hawaii so I'm waiting for go kart and later pics of your project on the island. I've only been there (Oahu) once. So I hope you progress and get that thing out of the garage! I also like the "spot the hula girl" game. Thanks for your detailed accounts. I agree that the planning is crucial. I think I've heard 30% of the total completion time should be spent on planning: minimum. I'm sure future builders (maybe me) will appreciate your efforts.

Thanks,

WEK.

WEK, thanks for following, but you need to start building an 818, I recommend it!

I skipped the "go cart" stage. Once I started the engine and verified the trans operation on jack stands, I went on to putting on the body. After the body was on I took it for a spin around the block a couple of times, then straight to body work and paint prep. And yes on planning time, the more you can plan the better the outcome.


Hana, you wrote, "Sometimes I wonder if anyone is reading/following". This thread has over 40,000 views! Lots of us are enjoying and learning and copying stuff. Please keep doing what you're doing.


Or, maybe it's just guys coming to drool over the Hula Girl. :eek:

Thanks AZPete. I'll keep posting, but let me know when I get boring. All this bondo, sanding, etc is the worst. Part boring, but very important for a proper final product.

[Aloha818]

I keep getting interrupted. Sorry for the delay in posting. Family in from mainland, and I think I'm looking for excuses to put off sanding!

So after a couple more rounds of filler I was close enough to sand to fit the gap to my stir stick width. I used contact cement to glue a piece of 80 grit to one side of the stir stick, then sanded to just beyond a tight fit.
29327

29328

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In this pic you can see that filler was required at the bottom of the gap and the top. You can see the white line of the gelcoat in the center
29330

Then after I was happy with the gap and height then I started rounding the corners and sanded down to 180 grit, I'm really happy with how I was able to get an even gap through the bumper and that the hood is flush to the face of the bumper.
29331

29332

29333

I'm not sure how much room the windshield wiper needs between the glass and the hood, but I have 3/4" on each end and widens up to 1 3/8" in the middle. I sanded down the return lip across the windshield to 3/8" tall.
29334

I found another defect in the glasswork to be aware of. This is in the hood, an the passenger side, on the rearward edge. A pretty good dip, you can see my mark and the wave in the reflection
29335

I have a couple mods to make to the door panels, but I'm real close to running the panels over and spraying primer.

[Scargo]

Ah, a patient man. It is a tedious process.
Don't forget the 80/20 principal. Get out and enjoy driving the car before your eyesight fails... Also, Hula girl may tire of all the dust, lack of sun and no breeze in her hair.

[VD2021]

I keep getting interrupted. Sorry for the delay in posting. Family in from mainland, and I think I'm looking for excuses to put off sanding!

So after a couple more rounds of filler I was close enough to sand to fit the gap to my stir stick width. I used contact cement to glue a piece of 80 grit to one side of the stir stick, then sanded to just beyond a tight fit.
29327

29328

29329

In this pic you can see that filler was required at the bottom of the gap and the top. You can see the white line of the gelcoat in the center
29330

Then after I was happy with the gap and height then I started rounding the corners and sanded down to 180 grit, I'm really happy with how I was able to get an even gap through the bumper and that the hood is flush to the face of the bumper.
29331

29332

29333

I'm not sure how much room the windshield wiper needs between the glass and the hood, but I have 3/4" on each end and widens up to 1 3/8" in the middle. I sanded down the return lip across the windshield to 3/8" tall.
29334

I found another defect in the glasswork to be aware of. This is in the hood, an the passenger side, on the rearward edge. A pretty good dip, you can see my mark and the wave in the reflection
29335

I have a couple mods to make to the door panels, but I'm real close to running the panels over and spraying primer.

Very nice work. Don't for get to round over all of the edges. If you leave them square the paint will have a tendency to pool/build on the spray side.

[thestigwins]

Any updates? :)

[Aloha818]

Ah, a patient man. It is a tedious process.
Don't forget the 80/20 principal. Get out and enjoy driving the car before your eyesight fails... Also, Hula girl may tire of all the dust, lack of sun and no breeze in her hair.

Thanks and I firmly agree!


Very nice work. Don't for get to round over all of the edges. If you leave them square the paint will have a tendency to pool/build on the spray side.

Thanks, and yes, the corners will all be slightly rounded, just like OEM.


Any updates? :)

Sometimes work and life get in the way! We had family in for about 10 days, a work project that took all my regular time plus extra the last two weeks, we moved into a new condo, and I've spent the last 3 days hooking up a new 4K TV and all my HiFi gear.

I'm looking forward to getting back to bondo and sanding this week!

More updates soon.

[CptTripps]

Great thread! I've often thought that putting 2X-3X the time you'd normally allocate to bodywork will pay back in spades when you look at the end product. Sure, if I wanted a white car, this would be easy. White hides a lot of imperfections that you normally don't see. If you're doing a grey or black car, you see it ALL.

Keep at it. You're on the home stretch.

[WIS89]

Body work is looking great. I especially like the joints between the panels. Hard work to be sure, but it should look great.

Three days to hook up your TV and stereo system huh? Now that's a system!

I hope you are well, and I look forward to seeing more progress; looks terrific.

Regards,

Steve

[longislandwrx]

I'm looking forward to getting back to bondo and sanding this week!


Said no one ever.

[Wayne Presley]

Said no one ever.

I know I have not!

[Aloha818]

Great thread! I've often thought that putting 2X-3X the time you'd normally allocate to bodywork will pay back in spades when you look at the end product. Sure, if I wanted a white car, this would be easy. White hides a lot of imperfections that you normally don't see. If you're doing a grey or black car, you see it ALL.

Keep at it. You're on the home stretch.

Thanks for commenting! And yes, since I'm painting it black I have to try hard to make the finished product look good. Since paint and body work is not my profession, I know I will have some defects. So I have to work a little harder!


Body work is looking great. I especially like the joints between the panels. Hard work to be sure, but it should look great.

Three days to hook up your TV and stereo system huh? Now that's a system!

I hope you are well, and I look forward to seeing more progress; looks terrific.

Regards,

Steve

Thanks. It's coming together nicely.

I've recently gotten interested in HiFi. So I've built my speakers, subs, tube amp, tube phono pre amp, tube pre amp, DAC, and turntable. I also designed the shelving (had it fabricated and painted in Vietnam) and built a back cabinet for a hidden tv lift for my new 65" Sony 4K TV. An Apple Mac Mini is used for digital playback and internet streaming.

This is the first time that everything was done/on site to put altogether. It takes a lot of time to physically connect, program, set-up, connect to internet, etc.

[Aloha818]

Said no one ever.


I know I have not!

Ok, so I spent the day back on filler and sanding, but still better than packing and moving!

[Aloha818]

So today was my first day back on the car, took a little to get my bearings and get started. I still have a little work to do on the hood, but I wanted to tackle to door to fender area. FYI, this is my most least favorite part of the car. I'm not a fan of the way the door hinges behind the fender. I'm hoping that with my car being painted black that it won't look so bad.

So I started on the passenger side by block sanding with 180 grit. As you can see in this pic with the guide coat showing in the low spots on the left of the body line. The marker line shows about where I want to float the filler too.
29986

I blocked all the way through the gelcoat, as seen in pick, to get flat. Still didn't get 100%, but pretty close. I used filler to build the panel to flat and to my marker line. The rear side of the fender was also a little low going to the return, added filler, blocked flat, and rounded corner. There was also a small low spot in the fender too.
29987

Then after all filled and flat I rounded over the peak of the body line.
29988

Still working on the bottom of the fender, pretty nasty as delivered.
29989

While waiting for filler to set up I cleaned up the gap between the door an quarter.
29990

I will add glass to the top right of the door to replace where FFR cut off too much after I pull off for primer

[TahoeTim]

Instead of adding to the top right of the door, did you consider adding to the fender at the windshield to bring it back toward the windshield?

[Aloha818]

Instead of adding to the top right of the door, did you consider adding to the fender at the windshield to bring it back toward the windshield?

Thanks for commenting.

I have all the panels set pretty close to where I think they fit best. The hood is only about 3/8" away from the windshield frame.

In a previous post I took a pic of the drivers door and the passenger door side by side and you can see that FFR cut the passenger door panel shorter at the top. I believe others have had the same issue. I lost a lot of time setting the front end because I couldn't figure out why all my measurements were equal side to side but still had that big gap on the passenger side. Only after I did the side by side comparison did I realize why.

[TahoeTim]

kinda hard to explain but in pics 1 and 2, I was referring to adding curve rearward of the fender to match the curve at the top of the door.

[Aloha818]

kinda hard to explain but in pics 1 and 2, I was referring to adding curve rearward of the fender to match the curve at the top of the door.

If I understand your comment correctly, not really. Due to how the fender also returns on the top then to extend rearward the top of the extended fender would have to notch around the windshield frame. I don't have this gap on the drivers side, so with working within the FFR design just repairing the passenger side door is the best answer for me.

As I mentioned earlier, I really don't like how the fenders and doors fit together in the first place. I'm not sure why FFR couldn't have come up with a typical detail.

[Aloha818]

I continued work today on the doors and fenders. Pretty much finished up the passenger side and made good progress on the drivers side.

Here are some notes that I didn't mention yesterday.

My door opens to about 19" max, as measured below
30030

In the next pic you can see I sanded through the gelcoat and added filler to try and "flatten" the door panel as much as possible to keep from seeing weird reflections in the black paint. I now have a gentle curve. Based on about 1/8-3/16" thick gelcoat, and that I added about 3/16" of filler at the thickest point, that's maybe a 3/8" change in about 6". Now it's about 1/8".

Then for the front of the fender to match the filler I opened the door all the way to the fender and traced a line to fill/sand to
30031

Once the curves started going in opposite directions toward the top I made a line the seemed to follow the natural meeting point of both body angles.

Next I worked on the wicked nasty joint between the fender and the front bumper. Between the defect in the shape of the flare, the voids, and the severe radius, for a small area it took a bit of time. But turned out nice
30032

I also had a defect in the passenger rear area of the hood. Weird lines, dips and humps. So after taking some measurements from the shape on the drivers side I re-shaped the passenger side. This pic also shows how I shaped the top rear of the fender, spacing to the windshield frame, and how the end of the hood matches.
30033

Then on to the drivers side. Basically the very same challenges. Here you can see the low spots with the guide coat
30034

Then another void in the gelcoat popped up
30035

Almost finished today with this area, how I left for the day
30036

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My door opens to about 19" max, as measured below

First, Your body work looks great, I wish I had the patience and ability to do that.

Wow, I will not be able to get out of the car if it only opens 19", so I went looking for pictures with the doors open.
3003730038

This looks like much more. What is stopping your doors.Do we need to move the nose forward or the sails backward?
Bob

[Aloha818]

First, Your body work looks great, I wish I had the patience and ability to do that.

Wow, I will not be able to get out of the car if it only opens 19", so I went looking for pictures with the doors open.
30037

This looks like much more. What is stopping your doors.Do we need to move the nose forward or the sails backward?
Bob

Bob, thanks for the positive feedback!

Without seeing the FFR car up close I'm not sure what they did. The tight spot for me is at the bottom of the door. This is a dimension locked in by the front bottom of the sail to the fender and the rear fitment of the door. The only variable is pushing the door skin in farther on the door frame and/or taking a way a little more of the return on the rear of the fender.

I need to take some measurements in a parking lot to be sure, but I don't think you will be able to open the doors even this wide in a typical parking spot. Due in part to the wide body and extra thick doors.

[Harley818]

I've been following your build for a while now and you have made me realize I need to up my game on the body. I really like your philosophy of making it look more like OEM, and I'm sure your patience and hard work will pay off in the final product. Yes people are reading your thread, and if they are like me..... I'm learning alot (I don't have much experience with bodywork). Thanks for the time you are spending documenting the details. Keep it up. My kit shows up on Tuesday!!!!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

THe second door opening is mine....yeah mine opened quire far. You may have installed the door skin too far outboard relative to the inner structure....or something....

[metalmaker12]

Think your quarters need to come forward to help close the gap along with what eric said and maybe playing with the fenders slightly.

Here's mine for reference:30045, side profile of car30046

[Aero STI]

Your body work is outstanding. I don't have nearly as much time in my body prep work and I commend you for your patience. I look at this thread and my 818 in the garage and wish Factory Five had taken a totally different approach to how the body was made and how it went together. Fitting everything and getting gaps right is such a pain. The issues with the panels like gelcoat voids and terrible edges only compound the problems.

Having so many different fiberglass panels that change shape depending on how you store them is such a bad idea. What I would do for something as simple as an ABS front bumper that took the Camry headlights with a perfect fit.

[Aloha818]

I've been following your build for a while now and you have made me realize I need to up my game on the body. I really like your philosophy of making it look more like OEM, and I'm sure your patience and hard work will pay off in the final product. Yes people are reading your thread, and if they are like me..... I'm learning alot (I don't have much experience with bodywork). Thanks for the time you are spending documenting the details. Keep it up. My kit shows up on Tuesday!!!!!!

Thanks so much for the great comments, glad you are getting something for reading my posts?

Congratulations in advance on receiving your kit. Hope you have as much fun as I have so far.

[Aloha818]

THe second door opening is mine....yeah mine opened quire far. You may have installed the door skin too far outboard relative to the inner structure....or something....

Eric, thanks for jumping in. The fender to the side sail is a fixed point, as is the relation to the door, front to back. The only variable to getting the door to open farther is to push the door skin toward the center of the car, and/or cut more out of the fender return. I currently used the FFR body line right at the bottom of the door as the guide on where to attach the door skin to the door frame. The face of the door frame also matches the face of the fender at the bottom
30062

30063

This location is the pinch point for the door opening.

[Aloha818]

Think your quarters need to come forward to help close the gap along with what eric said and maybe playing with the fenders slightly.

Here's mine for reference:30045, side profile of car30046


Metal, thanks for joining the conversation. I spent a fee minutes today looking at the relationship of the door to fender. As I mentioned in my reply to Eric, I have my door skin out to the body line of the sill. In comparing your photo of the return of the fender with mine you can see you have trimmed a little more off than I have and your door skin is also in a little farther.
Due to the hinge point and the length of the door, every 1/8" increase in the gap between the fender and the door lets the door open another +3".

Here is Hawaii the parking spaces are usually tighter than on the mainland. I have not really been concerned with the distance my doors open and didn't really think about until the other day when I posted. When I take the body apart for prime and paint I'm going to "move" the sill body line inboard about an 1/8" and take about 1/8" of of the fender return. This should let the door open up about 6" farther.

[Aloha818]

Your body work is outstanding. I don't have nearly as much time in my body prep work and I commend you for your patience. I look at this thread and my 818 in the garage and wish Factory Five had taken a totally different approach to how the body was made and how it went together. Fitting everything and getting gaps right is such a pain. The issues with the panels like gelcoat voids and terrible edges only compound the problems.

Having so many different fiberglass panels that change shape depending on how you store them is such a bad idea. What I would do for something as simple as an ABS front bumper that took the Camry headlights with a perfect fit.

Thanks for commenting! I agree that the panel quality is a little challenging. As I have no first hand knowledge or experience with molding fiberglass I'm not sure if what FFR produces is acceptable or not, based on the price paid.

I thought to myself today as I was rounding corners and detailing the front bumper, that this is more like art, sculpture, than bodywork. With other projects I've worked on you kind of knew what everything should look like, with the FFR panels there is a lot left to the imagination!

[Aloha818]

At the end of today I can see the end of filler and 80-180 grit sanding.

So some general information. I have about 1" of filler left in the one gallon can I bought when I started. I have used guide coat on all my sanding. With all the little variances in the body panels it has really helped my get the body "flat". It also helps keep body lines. Here is a pic of the top of the drivers fender. I sanded each side of the fender up to the body line. In the pic you can see a pretty straight black line of guide coat left.
30064

This is a pic of the passenger side after I rounded off the body line a little.
30065

I found two more voids in the gelcoat, it's on the bottom left and right of the opening to the radiator
30066

30067

On both sides I added a little filler to the front bottom of the sill/side sails. This helped a little in matching up to the fender and keeping the fender as far outbound as possible to help with the door opening
30068

I finished up with matching the drivers side fender to the bumper
30069

Tomorrow should be my last day of general rough prep, then disassembly for primer. I have a little more to do on the hood and re-sand the front end down from 180 to 320. Here is a side and front pic
30070

30071

[metalmaker12]

Metal, thanks for joining the conversation. I spent a fee minutes today looking at the relationship of the door to fender. As I mentioned in my reply to Eric, I have my door skin out to the body line of the sill. In comparing your photo of the return of the fender with mine you can see you have trimmed a little more off than I have and your door skin is also in a little farther.
Due to the hinge point and the length of the door, every 1/8" increase in the gap between the fender and the door lets the door open another +3".

Here is Hawaii the parking spaces are usually tighter than on the mainland. I have not really been concerned with the distance my doors open and didn't really think about until the other day when I posted. When I take the body apart for prime and paint I'm going to "move" the sill body line inboard about an 1/8" and take about 1/8" of of the fender return. This should let the door open up about 6" farther.

Yeah that slight movement should do it. Btw it's looking good!!
I also trimmed more off because since it's got such a gap anyway, to me looks like it could be a functional wheel well vent for air to travel through the top of the fenders and out this area. I also left the door behind the door sill line about an 1/8 and brought the top of the door in to close that nasty gap. Tops of your fender to hood looks much like mine. I have half painted and working on the rest.

[wallace18]

Your gaps look great! nice job!

[Aloha818]

Yeah that slight movement should do it. Btw it's looking good!!
I also trimmed more off because since it's got such a gap anyway, to me looks like it could be a functional wheel well vent for air to travel through the top of the fenders and out this area. I also left the door behind the door sill line about an 1/8 and brought the top of the door in to close that nasty gap. Tops of your fender to hood looks much like mine. I have half painted and working on the rest.

Thanks for commenting on how you set your door/fender gap, confirms what I was thinking, without me having to pull the door/skin and fenders again. Having to experiment with little details like this is what takes a lot of time!

I see you have been priming and wet sanding, no painted pics yet? What color did you pick?

[Aloha818]

Your gaps look great! nice job!

Wallace, thanks!

[Aloha818]

I spent another 8 hours Friday on final pre-primer prep. 32 hours this week alone so far.

Saved the hod for last. Knowing myself, I know the hood has to look great, say over the rear bumper, so I wouldn't be able to convince myself that "good enough" would not be good enough when I got tired of prep!

As delivered from FFR my hood was not too bad, aside from the one spot on the rearward passenger side. I blocked it all with 180 then 320. I will be using the FFR vent screens and trim so I thought I better double check fitment. Not real bad except for the rearward corners and body line. The corners are too rounded and not flat on the bottom, so the trim would not lay flat. The rear body line was also wavy. Kind of hard to tell in pic.
30096

I dug out the corners with my dremel and used filler to straighten the body line. About 6 hours total in the hood, not including the edges, front edge, and defect, FYI
30097

Here are a couple shots of the car before disassembly for primer and paint. Since I have a small space, and no storage space at the paint booth I'm lucky enough to be able to use, I will probably be doing this in two stages.
30098

30099

[Boog]

Looks great.

So now that you have put in all the effort to get the 'no paint' body (not sure about this) to a high quality, ready to be painted state, how many hours would you estimate you put into body prep? I recall someone mentioning a 30% rule but it seems 50% or 60% would be more accurate.

[Scargo]

Looks great.

So now that you have put in all the effort to get the 'no paint' body (not sure about this) to a high quality, ready to be painted state, how many hours would you estimate you put into body prep? I recall someone mentioning a 30% rule but it seems 50% or 60% would be more accurate. You're not thinking or the 80/20 rule, are you?
For auto refinishing it might be a different ratio...:o

[metalmaker12]

Thanks for commenting on how you set your door/fender gap, confirms what I was thinking, without me having to pull the door/skin and fenders again. Having to experiment with little details like this is what takes a lot of time!

I see you have been priming and wet sanding, no painted pics yet? What color did you pick?

Spices Hecker 501 Bright white with some gunmetal and hot rod black working in later. I also like black, blue and gunmetal has the main colors

[Aloha818]

Looks great.

So now that you have put in all the effort to get the 'no paint' body (not sure about this) to a high quality, ready to be painted state, how many hours would you estimate you put into body prep? I recall someone mentioning a 30% rule but it seems 50% or 60% would be more accurate.

Thanks for commenting and the compliment.

I really haven't kept a time card, so to speak, but I started about nine weeks ago, three weeks no work, about three weeks over 40 hours and at least 20 hours each for the other three weeks so that's about 180 hours of prep and body mods so far.

[Aloha818]

Spices Hecker 501 Bright white with some gunmetal and hot rod black working in later. I also like black, blue and gunmetal has the main colors

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

[Aloha818]

Today I had full access to the paint booth, so I primed the hood, front bumper, front fenders, engine cover and trunk lid. It really hurt to start taking the car apart! It came apart so much faster than it took to put together. I set the parts up on saw horses, touched up a few spots with sandpaper that I saw in the better lighting of the booth, wiped everything down with DuPont wax and grease remover, and dried off with another towel.
30108

I spayed two medium wet coats of DuPont 2K ChromaSurfacer Urethane Primer/Filler. Since my final color will be black the primer was tinted dark grey to help the paint cover with less coats.
30109

Overall I'm pretty happy with my pre-prep. Lines looked good, edges looked good, did see a few pin holes in the filler though that will take some more work. Here are a few close ups to show some of the areas that I modified/cleaned-up.

Rear edge of engine cover
30110

Front edge/side of engine cover
30111

Top rear corner of passenger front fender
30112

Rear corner of hood
30113

Deletion of vent in trunk lid
30114

This is the area of the bumper that I sliced a little to give more room for the hood gap
30115

This is the area on the passenger side of the bumper where it meets the fender, I had to really rework this area to fix the FFR defect and match to fender
30116

Everything looks so much better in one color!

The rear bumper and most of the doors and quarters are prepped. I need to add some glass to the passenger door and prep the inside door area of the side sails. I plan on priming the balance next Saturday.

I plan on picking up the finish paint and clear coat Monday. Also some more primer, used +2 quarts of primer plus hardener today. Might even spay out a test panel before the end of the week, we'll see.

[Harley818]

All that hard work and patience now paying off Aloha818.

Looks good. Can't wait to see it back on the car.

[waruaki]

As a builder who is just starting on the body I appreciate the detailed photos and explanations, thank you.

One question. What body filler have you been using? I would be interested in the product's you've used and which ones have worked best for you so far?

[Aloha818]

As a builder who is just starting on the body I appreciate the detailed photos and explanations, thank you.

One question. What body filler have you been using? I would be interested in the product's you've used and which ones have worked best for you so far?

Thanks for commenting. Enjoy the build!

Here is a pic of the filler, primer, base coat, and clear coat I'm using. I have used the DuPont Chroma products before. As they are pretty much top of the line, great results are dependent on the installer. FYI, the gallon of primer, paint, clear and related counterparts cost a couple dollars beyond $1k

This is the first time I've used the filler. I have no complaints, spread well, hardened quickly, sanded easily, and didn't goo up the sandpaper to easily.

I have also used Sherwin Williams products too (my Jeep) with good success. It could have been my experience and/or difference is spray equipment (disclaimer!), but I thought the ChromaClear laid down a little better.

I have only spent about 3 hours wet sanding the panels so far, but my initial thought is that it was a good decision to, completely as possible, prep the panels before prime and take advantage of the thick gelcoat to block sand. I am finding a few pin holes in the filler here and there and I will have to spot prime a few places, but the body lines are looking great as well as the panels looking "flat". So I should be able to switch to final paint pretty quickly!

30176

[waruaki]

Thank you

[Oppenheimer]

Hey, Hula Girl is not wearing a respirator. Safety First.

[Aero STI]

I used DuPont Chroma products on a motorcycle quite a few years ago. It worked phenomenally well. The clear coat turned out crystal clear. I'm excited to see the results.

[Aloha818]

Hey, Hula Girl is not wearing a respirator. Safety First.

You have totally gotten the wrong impression of Hula Girl! Probably my fault, but she is a f+%#ing premadonna. She is great to hang with, drink a beer, talk story, etc. She has to be the center of attention and demands to be included in every photo session. She is happy to watch me sand and sand and breathe dust and watch me spray primer safely through the paint booth window, but don't ever bring her in for photos before the dust has cleared!

Now don't get me wrong, she is my inspiration. But you need to understand her part in the build.

[Aloha818]

I used DuPont Chroma products on a motorcycle quite a few years ago. It worked phenomenally well. The clear coat turned out crystal clear. I'm excited to see the results.

Trust me, I'm praying great results this time myself! Glad your results were so good.

[Aloha818]

I'm continuing to wet sand and spot fill the panels I primed Saturday. Very excited on how well the panels look. Last week I'm sanding with 80 grit and now I'm at 600. I have found a few issues here and there that need additional attention, mostly pin holes in the filler and some in the gel coat. I repaired the last of the defects in the hood and resprayed the primer. Tomorrow I will wet sand again and finish paint to verify my prep process before I move on.

I also started looking at mods to the windshield frame and what I need to do to add fiberglass to the passenger door. In the next two pics you can see where I'm going to cut the windshield frame (arrow on tape) and what I need to add on the passenger side to match the drivers side, look at the pencil line going up the door. I plan on adding glass to the rest of the frame to stay about 1/8" above the top of the door.
30202

30203

[Erik W. Treves]

THat's where I cut mine.

[carbon fiber]

You act like you want that thing to look good or somethin'! Looks like good progress. As for Hula girl... she's probably made in china and was already full of harmful chemicals.

[Scargo]

Be nice, now! You're going to hurt her feelings. She looks rather virgin-like. I don't think she's ever been made.

[CptTripps]

This is the first time I've used the filler. I have no complaints, spread well, hardened quickly, sanded easily, and didn't goo up the sandpaper to easily.
30176

Rage Gold is the only thing I'll use anymore. The Extreme shouldn't be necessary for a fresh body, but I guess I don't see the harm in using it. They're both VERY light-weight.

[Aloha818]

THat's where I cut mine.


Thanks Erik, glad I'm not making a mistake.

[Aloha818]

You act like you want that thing to look good or somethin'! Looks like good progress. As for Hula girl... she's probably made in china and was already full of harmful chemicals.

Thanks for commenting. Since I'm not a pro, I have to shoot for 100% and hope I actually achieve 85%.

Hula Girl is larger than life, don't be fooled by her trompe l'oeil.

[Aloha818]

Be nice, now! You're going to hurt her feelings. She looks rather virgin-like. I don't think she's ever been made.

Scargo, thanks for coming to her defense! Sometimes Hula Girl's attitude gets to me, but you still gotta love her!

[Aloha818]

Rage Gold is the only thing I'll use anymore. The Extreme shouldn't be necessary for a fresh body, but I guess I don't see the harm in using it. They're both VERY light-weight.

Cut, thanks for providing your experience with fillers. I chose the extreme over the gold mainly because of the claims of no pin holes. Since I'm only filling very small areas and thickness I was more concerned about pin holes. I still did have a few pin holes though, but minimal.

[Aloha818]

So today I painted the hood as a test panel. It took 3 coats of the basecoat to cover and then 2 coats of clear.

The color is Nero Stellato. Here is a pretty good description of the color:

"new black that came out for the SA Aperta. It is much darker than Nero Daytona, but it has a sparkly, red/bronze, sheen to it. It looks much more metallic than Nero Daytona in sunshine (which was changed a couple of years ago to have smaller flakes), and it looks less metallic in dark light".

It's still in the booth, I'll pull it out into the sunshine in the morning to see how it looks. It's been a bit since I've sprayed clear coat, I don't think I laid down enough on the first coat, and couldn't completely get it "flat" with the second coat. Nothing a little color sanding won't cure, but still could have been better. Of course this is why I only set up to spray one panel, next should be better. Comparable finish as any new car, but I want better!

30219

[Aloha818]

I pulled the hood out of the booth and into the sunshine. It was still not real bright out yet today, morning clouds still out. I have to say I'm really happy with all the prep, sanding, etc. The overall look is amazing and the color is great. Here is a pic without the flash (iPhone). The color just looks black, the reflection shows me holding the phone, the clouds and the blue sky.
30253

Here is a pic with the flash on. You can still see me holding the phone, the clouds and the blue sky, but the flash makes the metallic flake come to life!
30255

I'm happy with my prep steps and feel comfortable moving on to the the rest of the panels following the same process.

One of my concerns with the body panels is the vertical area on the rear of the front fenders. This area is pretty narrow, the fiberglass is just regular thickness, and there is no support. I could imagine someone leaning against the car and putting pressure with their foot on this center of this area and busting the fiberglass. It is also not holding the same curve as the door. So my solution was to take a 2" piece of steel, 3/16" thick and about 16" long, bent to match the curve of the door
30254

I cleaned off the bedliner and with a couple of clamps and some 5 min epoxy bonded the steel to the fender. You should be able to kick this panel now without worry of busting the fiberglass and the fender now holds the shape to match the door.
30256

Then I removed the rest of the body panels and plan on priming in the booth Saturday.
30257

[VD2021]

Great job.

Mute point if your 5min epoxy holds over time in the automotive environment. But I highly recommend panel bonding adhesive for tasks such as this. I have been using 3m8115. It's formulated for automotive use/repair. You can see the actual joint separation, per substrate, test on the spec sheet. In most cases the substrate will fail before the adhesive bond will.

[metalmaker12]

Looking good, hope to get some time to paint

[carbon fiber]

Great job.

Mute point if your 5min epoxy holds over time in the automotive environment. But I highly recommend panel bonding adhesive for tasks such as this. I have been using 3m8115. It's formulated for automotive use/repair. You can see the actual joint separation, per substrate, test on the spec sheet. In most cases the substrate will fail before the adhesive bond will. X2. The 3m8115 is strong. Or glass the strip in, I wouldn't rely on the 5 Min. epoxy alone. P.S. Hula girl seems to be giving me the evil eye after that comment I made about her... tell her I'm sorry and didn't really mean it.

[CptTripps]

You're crushing the bodywork. It's going to look amazing.

[Aloha818]

Great job.

Mute point if your 5min epoxy holds over time in the automotive environment. But I highly recommend panel bonding adhesive for tasks such as this. I have been using 3m8115. It's formulated for automotive use/repair. You can see the actual joint separation, per substrate, test on the spec sheet. In most cases the substrate will fail before the adhesive bond will.

Thanks for the suggestion and product number. I have the shape pretty close, but it might need a little adjustment on final assembly. Right now I only have the epoxy on each end of the steel. After paint and after final fitment I plan on glassing it in. Or maybe use the 3m8115 around the perimeter, force as much under, and call it good?

[Aloha818]

Looking good, hope to get some time to paint

Metal thanks!

How's the priming going? Looking forward to seeing your paint scheme.

[Aloha818]

X2. The 3m8115 is strong. Or glass the strip in, I wouldn't rely on the 5 Min. epoxy alone. P.S. Hula girl seems to be giving me the evil eye after that comment I made about her... tell her I'm sorry and didn't really mean it.

Thanks Carbon!

It's really me that's getting the evil eye, she didn't like my PrimaDonna comment! But she said thanks for the apology.

[Aloha818]

You're crushing the bodywork. It's going to look amazing.

Cpt, thanks for the vote of confidence!

We will see soon.

[metalmaker12]

Metal thanks!

How's the priming going? Looking forward to seeing your paint scheme.

Half is primed and some painting, more priming tomorrow, will post pics when base color is cleared, than decisions on rest might be awhile. Gotta build engine right now

[Aloha818]

In an effort to let the doors open farther, but still have matching body lines, I "moved" the body line on the sill under the door by about 3/16". Then the door can be pushed in a little farther and still match the body line.

The door is pretty straight at the very bottom, so I used a straight edge and traced a pencil line from zero on the latch side to 3/16" on the hinge side
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So the idea is to sand the angle body line up to the pencil line. Unfortunately the gelcoat is not very thick here, so I sanded into the glass and had to slightly radius this area. While sanding I found more voids in the glass. The passenger side also had a void in this same spot, although not as big
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All filed, sanded and radius'd
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So tomorrow the balance of body panels goes into the booth for primer. Lucky for me the paint booth is less than 3 blocks away, so easy to shuffle parts back and forth.

Besides painting the hood I have the front fenders and front bumper wet sanded and touched up with spot putty, about ready for touch up primer. Going pretty fast now, relatively speaking, toward final paint!

[Aloha818]

Half is primed and some painting, more priming tomorrow, will post pics when base color is cleared, than decisions on rest might be awhile. Gotta build engine right now

Great! Looking forward to seeing. I have to tell you, I would prefer engine building! But the painting must be done too!

[Boog]

Some of the voids seem shockingly large but I have no basis for comparison. Is this pretty normal with commercial fiberglass? If I were to go online to a typical retailer and buy a new front fascia for a civic, WRX, GTI, etc..., should I expect to find similar hidden surprises lurking below the surface?

[carbon fiber]

Some of the voids seem shockingly large but I have no basis for comparison. Is this pretty normal with commercial fiberglass? If I were to go online to a typical retailer and buy a new front fascia for a civic, WRX, GTI, etc..., should I expect to find similar hidden surprises lurking below the surface? Depends on who makes it for sure. that's a pretty nasty one there.

[Scargo]

... If I were to go online to a typical retailer and buy a new front fascia for a civic, WRX, GTI, etc..., should I expect to find similar hidden surprises lurking below the surface? Yes, especially the cheaper stuff and knock-offs.

[Aloha818]

Some of the voids seem shockingly large but I have no basis for comparison. Is this pretty normal with commercial fiberglass? If I were to go online to a typical retailer and buy a new front fascia for a civic, WRX, GTI, etc..., should I expect to find similar hidden surprises lurking below the surface?


Depends on who makes it for sure. that's a pretty nasty one there.


Yes, especially the cheaper stuff and knock-offs.

Boog, I'll have to defer to others like carbon and Scargo as I have no prior experience.

As far as the FFR 818 panels go, I guess I have to agree that I am a little disappointed in the panels. I have really been trying to stay optimistic and supportive, but now that I have figured out that I have over 180 hours prepping the body, and that for sure it has to be painted (at least for a decent looking daily driver/street car). I know I am not a pro and probably taking too long, and that I might be pushing for to high of a result, but still.

[Aloha818]

So today I took the last of the body panels to the booth for primer.
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Here is a pic of the side sail that had a void and where I "moved" the body line to push the door inward. Other than a couple pin holes turned out pretty straight.
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Pics after 3 medium wet coats of 2k primer
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Pic of the rear bumper. I'm pretty happy with the look of my license plate mod. Still needs a little work, but I think adds a little character.
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Hopefully I can finish sanding panels this week and start final painting Saturday.

[Aloha818]

Sunday I put in about 4 hours prepping the first half of the panels that I primed. There is probably a faster way than I'm sanding/prepping, especially someone with power tools and experience. But as I don't trust myself with any power sanders it's all sanding blocks for me.

My process, for better or worse, is after 3 coats of primer/filler is to block (dry) with 320 grit with a 12" block as much as possible. Then finish with a smaller flexible block still with 320 (dry) and uncover any issues to repair/re-prime. Then after primer touch-up sand the whole panel with 600 (wet).

Since I already spent so much time with filler and block sanding before primer most of the issues I'm discovering are pinholes in both the primer and gelcoat. The large flat areas of the engine cover are going to need some more coats of primer/filler to get "flat". I've blocked into the gelcoat and filler and still have a low spot. Put in a good 8 hours today.

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But for the most part prepping the body well before primer is saving time now.

Depending on the pinhole I find I mostly use spot putty. Due to the voids in the gelcoat/fiberglass if I think the pinhole is not in filler I poke it with the point if my knife to see if there is any depth to it. Even after all the time I've spent trying to make sure I've found every possible void, I found another one today, that looked like a pinhole. I dug and dug. It ended up being a good inch or so long and up to 1/4" deep. Sorry I didn't find it before primer, but glad before paint!

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[indiana818]

I bought the same seats. I think they look cool in the car
kerry

[Aloha818]

I bought the same seats. I think they look cool in the car
kerry

Kerry, I think they are great seats, I think they will really compliment my black paint scheme. Good lunch with your build!

Back in the paint booth today, front fenders, front bumper, engine cover, and trunk getting final paint and clear today.

[Aloha818]

What a day. I hope I live through the night. ;)

Someone else had the booth this morning and planned to be out by 11:00. So I made use of the time and kept pepping the side sails. Well it took the other guy till 12:30 to vacate the booth, so I kept sanding, and finished.

It took me about 2 hours to get all the parts secured/hung on saw horses, paper dust/overspray protection, cleaning all the panels with DuPont residue cleaner, and a quick run with a tack cloth.

I started spraying at 2:30, 3 coats of color, 2 coats of clear. Finished cleaning up around 6:30. I had started prepping at 7:00 am, no lunch, I'm dead.

I used more color than I needed, but achieved good coverage. I was pushing more toward wet, as apposed to medium wet as called for. Mistake, had to go 4 coats on a couple panels to get even look/sheen.

When I painted the hood last week it went well except the finish is more toward orange peel than flat, not quite to orange peel though.

So I spent some more time searching how to get the clear more "flat". It's fine line before you start to get runs. Basically I widened the fan, increased the paint flow, increased the pressure at the gun to 50psi, and sprayed with the tip of the gun about 6-8" from the panel. I made a couple passes around all the edges and recesses first, then a slow pace across the panels, 75% overlap. Man I was dumping some clear, thought for sure it would run. I started with the front fenders, was still a little hesitant on how much clear I was laying down, but should have gone for more. It seems like I couldn't get it to run.

I used a gallon of clear and a gallon of paint between the hood, engine cover, trunk lid, front fenders, side sails, and front bumper so far. Back to the paint store!

I would say the final finish is better than a production car paint finish, some areas way better, except for some dust. But that will come out with color sanding.

The priming and prep really paid off. 3 coats covered the sand marks (600grit) and reflections look about as straight as the panels are supposed to be. One of my co-workers stopped by, he thought the panels were metal and was shocked when I told him they were Fiberglas.

Here are some pics from the booth. BTW, the color is really cool.

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[BryceJ]

Wow, those are some great looking panels! I always look forward to your posts.

[metalmaker12]

What a day. I hope I live through the night. ;)

Someone else had the booth this morning and planned to be out by 11:00. So I made use of the time and kept pepping the side sails. Well it took the other guy till 12:30 to vacate the booth, so I kept sanding, and finished.

It took me about 2 hours to get all the parts secured/hung on saw horses, paper dust/overspray protection, cleaning all the panels with DuPont residue cleaner, and a quick run with a tack cloth.

I started spraying at 2:30, 3 coats of color, 2 coats of clear. Finished cleaning up around 6:30. I had started prepping at 7:00 am, no lunch, I'm dead.

I used more color than I needed, but achieved good coverage. I was pushing more toward wet, as apposed to medium wet as called for. Mistake, had to go 4 coats on a couple panels to get even look/sheen.

When I painted the hood last week it went well except the finish is more toward orange peel than flat, not quite to orange peel though.

So I spent some more time searching how to get the clear more "flat". It's fine line before you start to get runs. Basically I widened the fan, increased the paint flow, increased the pressure at the gun to 50psi, and sprayed with the tip of the gun about 6-8" from the panel. I made a couple passes around all the edges and recesses first, then a slow pace across the panels, 75% overlap. Man I was dumping some clear, thought for sure it would run. I started with the front fenders, was still a little hesitant on how much clear I was laying down, but should have gone for more. It seems like I couldn't get it to run.

I used a gallon of clear and a gallon of paint between the hood, engine cover, trunk lid, front fenders, side sails, and front bumper so far. Back to the paint store!

I would say the final finish is better than a production car paint finish, some areas way better, except for some dust. But that will come out with color sanding.

The priming and prep really paid off. 3 coats covered the sand marks (600grit) and reflections look about as straight as the panels are supposed to be. One of my co-workers stopped by, he thought the panels were metal and was shocked when I told him they were Fiberglas.

Here are some pics from the booth. BTW, the color is really cool.

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Nice job!!! With the base I hit the edges two- three times misting the rest of the panel and than give it three medium wet coats with flash time and tack between.Yeah clear is all about the first coat really. I tend to put the first coat on wet as possable without running it. I also use a sata jet for clear that has a very wide fan and adondizes the paint perfectly. But why am I telling you,,, your doing it right man. Like the black, remember black is not a color it is a job," a good job you have done. And I have painted hundreds of cars so maybe I know at least a little. I am painting half my parts the week of July 7. Shop/Booth has very been busy with backed up work from the crazy winter crash season. I have the other parts almost all ready, but you know how that goes with these panels.

[Erik W. Treves]

very nice!!!!

[metalmaker12]

All glassed and filled, it should draw in plenty of air with the fans I am installing and the R windscreen 30710

[wallace18]

Wow! what a great job!

[Aloha818]

Nice job!!! With the base I hit the edges two- three times misting the rest of the panel and than give it three medium wet coats with flash time and tack between.Yeah clear is all about the first coat really. I tend to put the first coat on wet as possable without running it. I also use a sata jet for clear that has a very wide fan and adondizes the paint perfectly. But why am I telling you,,, your doing it right man. Like the black, remember black is not a color it is a job," a good job you have done. And I have painted hundreds of cars so maybe I know at least a little. I am painting half my parts the week of July 7. Shop/Booth has very been busy with backed up work from the crazy winter crash season. I have the other parts almost all ready, but you know how that goes with these panels.


All glassed and filled, it should draw in plenty of air with the fans I am installing and the R windscreen 30710

Thanks for the info and positive comments. I'm using a Sata gun also, need to check which model. The engine cover was the hardest panel to paint for me, inside the humps. In hindsight I should decreased the air pressure, I think too much blowing back, not sure.

It's cool how with the same "kit" everyone can still make it their own. I closed my trunk lid vent, you opened up your engine cover for a vent. Looking good!

[Aloha818]

very nice!!!!

Erik, Thanks!

[Aloha818]

Wow! what a great job!

Thanks Wallace! I think I'm going to love the look of this black on the 818. With the faint gold metallic I think it will really highlight the body lines on the street.

Although, doesn't have the same attention grabbing pop of your orange!

[metalmaker12]

Thanks for the info and positive comments. I'm using a Sata gun also, need to check which model. The engine cover was the hardest panel to paint for me, inside the humps. In hindsight I should decreased the air pressure, I think too much blowing back, not sure.

It's cool how with the same "kit" everyone can still make it their own. I closed my trunk lid vent, you opened up your engine cover for a vent. Looking good!

Sata jet 3000 hvlp with a 1.4/1.5for base and 1.3/1.4clear. When clearing tight spots, lower pressure considerably and pull back on fan width. Hit edges light a few times to build up the finish, but be careful not to dump it in one spot, stay moving. Than set back to normal and quickly clear it all up so it all flows together. It looks good in the pics, so you are doing this or a similar style. I like how we both cut out the front!!

[Aloha818]

Sata jet 3000 hvlp with a 1.4/1.5for base and 1.3/1.4clear. When clearing tight spots, lower pressure considerably and pull back on fan width. Hit edges light a few times to build up the finish, but be careful not to dump it in one spot, stay moving. Than set back to normal and quickly clear it all up so it all flows together. It looks good in the pics, so you are doing this or a similar style. I like how we both cut out the front!!

Good info. By the time I got to the clear my energy was low, I was hungry, and my brain a little slow (did wear a respirator though) so I didn't think about lowering the pressure till this morning. The area is not bad, just not as good as the rest. But nothing a little more sanding won't fix. Good thing I had written out all my pressures and gun settings before I started!

Now I need to glass in some on the doors and backside of my license plate mod on the rear bumper.

[Aloha818]

Had a little time this morning to start putting the panels back on the car. I left the panels in the booth over Sunday and brought them back to my "shop" early today. I will say it goes back together a lot faster after once assembled! One thing I had learned from watching car shows was before you take everything back apart for painting, to drill 1/8" holes in strategic places, then put the bit back through the holes before you tighten up that area. Works like a charm!

I have the side sails on with some of the 1/4-20 bolts and cleco's, but the front fenders, lights, and front bumper are complete. I slid the hood into place but have not attached the front brackets that lock the front between the bumper yet in this pic.

I am very happy with the prep, the paint, and the mods so far. What a different look than where I started. Seeing all the crisp rounded edges and even gaps looks fantastic. As typical, for my experience anyway, I have a few specks of dust and some patches here and there that is a little orangepeelish that will need to be sanded and polished to look good. But I will sand and polish all to look great!

I will say the 818 looks great in Black! So what do you guys think?

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[GhibliCup]

Looks fantastic! You must be really proud of how it is coming together.

[RM1SepEx]

the specs in the paint really POP

[tango68ss]

Damn sexy!! Can't wait to see it out in the light!

[AZPete]

Wow, the black is beautiful! Both of you must be very proud.

[Boog]

Freaking awesome! Those gaps and body lines around where the hood meets the nose turned out shockingly well. How did the trunk fitment end up?

[metalmaker12]

Had a little time this morning to start putting the panels back on the car. I left the panels in the booth over Sunday and brought them back to my "shop" early today. I will say it goes back together a lot faster after once assembled! One thing I had learned from watching car shows was before you take everything back apart for painting, to drill 1/8" holes in strategic places, then put the bit back through the holes before you tighten up that area. Works like a charm!

I have the side sails on with some of the 1/4-20 bolts and cleco's, but the front fenders, lights, and front bumper are complete. I slid the hood into place but have not attached the front brackets that lock the front between the bumper yet in this pic.

I am very happy with the prep, the paint, and the mods so far. What a different look than where I started. Seeing all the crisp rounded edges and even gaps looks fantastic. As typical, for my experience anyway, I have a few specks of dust and some patches here and there that is a little orangepeelish that will need to be sanded and polished to look good. But I will sand and polish all to look great!

I will say the 818 looks great in Black! So what do you guys think?

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Nice!!! Be careful assembling, take care with this beast!! Happy for you man!!

[Aloha818]

Thanks all for the comments! As you can tell I'm (and hula girl ;)) excited on how it's coming together and looking forward to seeing more 818's get to this stage.


Looks fantastic! You must be really proud of how it is coming together.


the specs in the paint really POP


Damn sexy!! Can't wait to see it out in the light!


Wow, the black is beautiful! Both of you must be very proud.


Freaking awesome! Those gaps and body lines around where the hood meets the nose turned out shockingly well. How did the trunk fitment end up?

I still have the bumper, doors, hoops, and windshield frame to complete and paint, so final assembly on the trunk is held up. But before I pulled the panels off I had the covers gapped with a paint stick to the side sail, about 3/16" gap between the engine cover and trunk, and trunk to rear bumper. Since the trunk lid opens I wanted a little more room. The bumper does curve out about 1/16-1/8" wider in the middle, but when I fab the trunk holding area I will rein in.


Nice!!! Be careful assembling, take care with this beast!! Happy for you man!!

I need to pick up some protective tape when I get ready to work on the doors for sure. It was nice spending the day away from paint prep and see some real movement forward. Now back to glass work.

I'm thinking about removing the plastic trim piece that goes between the two halves of the windshield frame and glassing together/over, any reason why this would not be a good idea? I am getting rid the angle cut at the bottom and setting an even 1/4" gap between the top of the door and the bottom of windshield frame. I believe FFR designed this area to give room for the side mirrors, but I'm using different mirrors.

[ehansen007]

Man, that license plate is so good. Makes it look OEM for sure. you're doing a great job.

[wleehendrick]

I've never owned or wanted a black car because of all the work to make/keep it looking good... but damn that's sexy!

I think you need to change your "OEM" mantra... very few production cars have that level of finish!

[Aloha818]

Man, that license plate is so good. Makes it look OEM for sure. you're doing a great job.

Thanks, I appreciate the compliments! I'm really happy with how the license plate recess looks now in primer, should look even better in real paint.


I've never owned or wanted a black car because of all the work to make/keep it looking good... but damn that's sexy!

I think you need to change your "OEM" mantra... very few production cars have that level of finish!

Thanks and thanks for commenting!

I've had a few dark blue and black cars, have one now also, they are a pain to keep clean and hotter in the summer sun. But cleaned and waxed its a hard color to beat! Since my cars pretty much are always parked in a parking garage it's not quite as bad to keep clean.

And as far as OEM look I'm trying to keep, remember this is a "kit" car, I have to "over succeed" every place I can!

I'm hoping to at least get the bumper ready for paint Saturday. Then I can have most of the body mounted and lights, etc installed. The door mods are going to take a little more time.

[bil1024]

Awesome, great job !

[sponaugle]

Agreed... Fantastic look... and now I know what to look forward to when the time comes to work on my 818 body panels!
Jeff

[WIS89]

Holy cow, that paint really looks terrific! All of the effort you put into panel alignment and gaps really shows with that paint job.

You did a fantastic job with the paint, and I really like the black on the 818; frankly, I am a little surprised at how much a like it! Black is a tough color, but it really looks awesome!

I look forward to seeing the paint out in the light. Really just an awesome job!! I have enjoyed following your build, and really appreciate the updates. Your hard work really shows in the great results you are achieving!

Regards,

Steve

[Aloha818]

Awesome, great job !


Agreed... Fantastic look... and now I know what to look forward to when the time comes to work on my 818 body panels!
Jeff


Holy cow, that paint really looks terrific! All of the effort you put into panel alignment and gaps really shows with that paint job.

You did a fantastic job with the paint, and I really like the black on the 818; frankly, I am a little surprised at how much a like it! Black is a tough color, but it really looks awesome!

I look forward to seeing the paint out in the light. Really just an awesome job!! I have enjoyed following your build, and really appreciate the updates. Your hard work really shows in the great results you are achieving!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks again guys! Hula Girl and I are both smiling.

Knowing I was painting black I knew everything had to be as perfect as within my ability. Others could have done better and faster for sure, but I'm happy non the less. I've been working on such tiny details for so long, when I look back at my pics and of other 818 body details I can't believe how far I've come. Major improvement. Thanks for you guys noticing and commenting.

I stopped by the paint store today to pick up more clear and color, close to $1600 so far in prep, paint, clear, sandpaper, supplies, FYI.

Been busy at work this week, so no progress yet. Tomorrow morning I'll finish prepping the rear bumper and spray out on Saturday. Then I can get the 818 back off the jack stands and into the sun! I myself can't wait to see how it all looks in real sunlight.

I'll also try and get started on the doors. Besides fixing where FFR cut too much off the front of the passenger side, I'm going to be pushing the interior door panels forward about 1 1/2" so that the door mounted strike plate clears. This requires me to fab up fiberglass returns on the back edge do the exterior door panels. This is a more OEM way to finish off this area. Look at any OEM car door and the latching/locking mechanism is always beyond the interior door panel with the exterior side of the door going beyond and covering the mechanism on the outside. To me there is no good way to put a slot in the interior door panel to allow the strike to pass through. I will also be setting this up to receive a soft rubber bumper to take the slop out of the Subaru latching system.

[RM1SepEx]

wow, adding an extended edge to the rear of the doors, so you can have a slot and hidden latch! Can't wait to see it...

just waded through latest rev of the manual, noticed page 420 where they have a shot of the hood pin on the right side coming up through the hood... My hood fits exactly like that, the hood sits up on top of the windshield surround and won't seat itself on the fender lip.

Your's is I'm guessing 1/4 inch farther forward... perhaps this is why your passenger side door is coming up short? It shouldn't be an issue when you send the entire door forward to build your rear lip except now the angled portion of the door is farther forward, won't that cause problems opening the door?

My doors open a different amt on each side... the door stop doesn't come to play with my right hinges, on the left there is only 18 inches of door opening.

[Aloha818]

wow, adding an extended edge to the rear of the doors, so you can have a slot and hidden latch! Can't wait to see it...

just waded through latest rev of the manual, noticed page 420 where they have a shot of the hood pin on the right side coming up through the hood... My hood fits exactly like that, the hood sits up on top of the windshield surround and won't seat itself on the fender lip.

Your's is I'm guessing 1/4 inch farther forward... perhaps this is why your passenger side door is coming up short? It shouldn't be an issue when you send the entire door forward to build your rear lip except now the angled portion of the door is farther forward, won't that cause problems opening the door?

My doors open a different amt on each side... the door stop doesn't come to play with my right hinges, on the left there is only 18 inches of door opening.

Happy 4th!

Sorry I didn't explain my planned door mod very well. I have fitted both doors as per FFR direction and gapped as I like (paint stick gap). My planned mod is with the interior side of the door and door card. I will slide the door cards forward about 2" so that the latching mechanism does not require the FFR detailed slot. I will cut about a 1/2" off of the rear side and make a return to the back end of the door card. For me this cleans up several issues The slot in the door card, delete the plastic trim between the edge of the door and door card and give a place for a door bumper, not hitting the door card.

I made a template of the drivers door panel, which works ok, look at the difference on the passenger side;
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Spent about 7 hours today working on the rear bumper. In primer I saw a couple issues with my license plate mod, a couple lines needed straightening and some pin holes needed filled. Wet sanded to 400 and then a little touch up with primer. In the morning I have the booth so I'll wet sand to 600 and spray the bumper out in color/clear.
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[RM1SepEx]

I did the same paper trick on my doors, they are within 1/32 in of the same...

Latch, striker etc

FFR way: door skin .127 spaced from body, all around (measured several paint sticks, ave = .127)
FFR aluminum plate .040 in This reduces the space to 0.087 not much clearance for the door to close. They cut a slot into the door for the "hoop" of the striker but not for the base plate of the striker that is sitting on top of the body's fiberglass in the door opening.
The Striker's base is .227 in thick, if it is screwed on the surface there is no way that a gap less than about .300 inches can be used. Eliminate the aluminum cover plate and you are now in the .260 range and .033 isn't much for a door swinging through an arc into the opening

Wayne, GRM etc, eliminated the aluminum plate and cut out a rectangular portion of the door to clear the striker's base.

Options:

Increase the gap at the rear of the door, I'm not sure what the practical minimum using the FFR instructions so that it doesn't scrape, leaves a slotted door edge, gap over .300

Delete the Aluminum plate from outside the door skin, close the gap an additional .040, leaves a slotted door edge, gaps sub .300

Use Wayne's solution, leaving the open rectangle, wide enough to clearance the striker. it is easiest to implement, consistent gap possible

Inset the striker into the body, position the bracket and have it just sitting behind the fiberglass, slot at door edge, consistent gaps

so much work to do, slot looks better, I'd like gaps to be "close" to even....

UGH

[Wayne Presley]

My way is the easiest and I have very narrow door gaps.

[RM1SepEx]

I agree, as noted above, I just don't like the way it looks unfinished when the door is open, more than likely it is what I'll do.

My frustration is that the FFR way is impossible yet that method has not changed in their documentation, documentation written after you did your modification. You found it didn't work and came up with a simple solution on the very first customer car. When we get there, we follow the manual, work through the interference and search to find out how other's did it... It keeps happening over and over.

While it does reinforce this online community, it creates a ton of extra time delay and frustration for the other builders. You have done this multiple times and know many of the answers from experience with out kit builds, we are new at this and keep reinventing the wheel. Why doesn't FFR update their documents?

[Aloha818]

I did the same paper trick on my doors, they are within 1/32 in of the same...

Latch, striker etc

FFR way: door skin .127 spaced from body, all around (measured several paint sticks, ave = .127)
FFR aluminum plate .040 in This reduces the space to 0.087 not much clearance for the door to close. They cut a slot into the door for the "hoop" of the striker but not for the base plate of the striker that is sitting on top of the body's fiberglass in the door opening.
The Striker's base is .227 in thick, if it is screwed on the surface there is no way that a gap less than about .300 inches can be used. Eliminate the aluminum cover plate and you are now in the .260 range and .033 isn't much for a door swinging through an arc into the opening

Wayne, GRM etc, eliminated the aluminum plate and cut out a rectangular portion of the door to clear the striker's base.

Options:

Increase the gap at the rear of the door, I'm not sure what the practical minimum using the FFR instructions so that it doesn't scrape, leaves a slotted door edge, gap over .300

Delete the Aluminum plate from outside the door skin, close the gap an additional .040, leaves a slotted door edge, gaps sub .300

Use Wayne's solution, leaving the open rectangle, wide enough to clearance the striker. it is easiest to implement, consistent gap possible

Inset the striker into the body, position the bracket and have it just sitting behind the fiberglass, slot at door edge, consistent gaps

so much work to do, slot looks better, I'd like gaps to be "close" to even....

UGH

Dan, my door panels have a slight taper on the edge of the door increasing to the interior. Even though the door panel is on a curve the steel plate that the lock attaches too is flat. The net effect is that when you tighten the door panel/lock/steel plate the door panel is forced inward increasing the gap at the striker plate see pic,
30947

I have no rubbing, great even gap. I used the FFR trim plate as a template and with care cut a slot that opens slightly to the edge of the door and ends with a radius top and bottom. When painted this will look like any OEM product.

Glad your door panels are similar side to side! I guess FFR got a little wild when they cut my passenger door.

[RM1SepEx]

Wow, excellent photo, perhaps the key is location of the latch so far in towards the frame, their manual shows it being straight, parallel with the frame, by swinging it past that pint it actually makes it effectively shorter... your latch is 1 inch or so closer to the frame... I was just about to inset the latch plate and make my own cover plate.

Can I assume that you will use flatheads countersunk into the door and no aluminum cover plate.

Something to play with this afternoon. I need to go to the bone yard and find another WRX wiper arm to play with the wipers some more.

Edit, just checked, going past does indeed work on mine too! Great job.

[Aloha818]

Wow, excellent photo, perhaps the key is location of the latch so far in towards the frame, their manual shows it being straight, parallel with the frame, by swinging it past that pint it actually makes it effectively shorter... your latch is 1 inch or so closer to the frame... I was just about to inset the latch plate and make my own cover plate.

Can I assume that you will use flatheads countersunk into the door and no aluminum cover plate.

Something to play with this afternoon. I need to go to the bone yard and find another WRX wiper arm to play with the wipers some more.

Edit, just checked, going past does indeed work on mine too! Great job.

Here is a pic of the edge of my door showing the slot and the countersunk opening for the screws
30973


And here is a mock up to better explain my interior door and door card mod
30974

You can see the +/- 3/4" area I need to cut back a little and fill with a return. Here is a pic of my Jeep door, similar situation, although I hope to make the 818 mod a little cleaner, you can see the overall concept.
30975

I hope you come up with a good wiper solution, I'll be following as I will need a wiper and I need it to work with the narrow gap I have.

[Aloha818]

Yesterday after spending most of the day on the rear bumper we walked across the street for the fireworks, but I think the sunset was a great first act!
30976

It took me about 4 more hours this morning to wet sand the touch up primer from yesterday, move everything over to the booth, get set up, clean and prep for paint.
30977

I had to buy another 1/2 gallon of paint, I'm a little worried that the paint doesn't match up, looks like to new order has more flake in it. I'll know for sure Monday when I get it back to my shop.

Other than that concern everything went well. Although I did figure out the limit on how much clear I can dump on at a time. I have a couple little sags that will have to be sanded off later :(

I know in the overall effort of building the 818 and all the little decisions that have to be made along the way my license plate mod is a small thing, but I'm really happy with the concept and final execution.
30978

Spent a couple hours after painting to start working on the doors. I have the concept in my head, now trying to work through the best means to get everything I need from this mod.

[Boog]

Its too bad you didn't make a mold of the license plate insert. I would buy one although I guess if you sold several dozen it would make the style less unique.

The stock rear bumper always seemed to be missing something and its unfortunate that some 'details' like these didn't make it into the initial design

[bbjones121]

Less unique??? umm. do we understand how few 818's there will be driving around?



Its too bad you didn't make a mold of the license plate insert. I would buy one although I guess if you sold several dozen it would make the style less unique.

The stock rear bumper always seemed to be missing something and its unfortunate that some 'details' like these didn't make it into the initial design

[Boog]

Sometimes there is a desire to have a one-off creation but point taken.

Several parts of this build seem to fit so well I get surprised when I look around and realize that it wasn't part of the original FFR design. Chief among these would be the license plate inset and the roll bar modification. I'm sure things will change once my kit arrives and I spend time each day interacting with it, but I often do a double take when I see a picture of an S's roll bar and am momentarily confused that it goes flat across.

[bbjones121]

Sometimes there is a desire to have a one-off creation but point taken.

Several parts of this build seem to fit so well I get surprised when I look around and realize that it wasn't part of the original FFR design. Chief among these would be the license plate inset and the roll bar modification. I'm sure things will change once my kit arrives and I spend time each day interacting with it, but I often do a double take when I see a picture of an S's roll bar and am momentarily confused that it goes flat across.

I love what has been done on this build and cant wait to see pictures of it finished.

I pressed really hard for the double hoops over the last several years, but no go. Racing requirements say it must be the way it is. Something to do with only two bends allowed or something. See the Lotus 2 eleven. Ariel atom did it with only one hoop in middle to meet the bend requirement i would guess.

[Oppenheimer]

I agree, as noted above, I just don't like the way it looks unfinished when the door is open, more than likely it is what I'll do.

My frustration is that the FFR way is impossible yet that method has not changed in their documentation, documentation written after you did your modification. You found it didn't work and came up with a simple solution on the very first customer car. When we get there, we follow the manual, work through the interference and search to find out how other's did it... It keeps happening over and over.

While it does reinforce this online community, it creates a ton of extra time delay and frustration for the other builders. You have done this multiple times and know many of the answers from experience with out kit builds, we are new at this and keep reinventing the wheel. Why doesn't FFR update their documents?

What if FFR made an online, open-source version of the manual, and made it like a wiki, where the community could submit edits? (but make it only available to registered forum members). That way, as soon as issues are found, or better ways are invented, they could be posted into the online manual and available to the next builder.

In situations where more than one way of doing something is available, the online open-source manual could just reference all of them, giving builder the choice of which way to do it.

This would act as a way to reconcile all the goodness that is currently squirreled away in endless build threads that new builders have to wade through, giving new builders instant access to all the latest knowledge and tips and tricks.

[flynntuna]

I totally agree, and I don't understand why the WiKi section of this forum is basically empty. A centralized section for build tips and instructions would IMO streamline searches and can be a tremendous resource.

[Boog]

I pressed really hard for the double hoops over the last several years, but no go. Racing requirements say it must be the way it is. Something to do with only two bends allowed or something. See the Lotus 2 eleven. Ariel atom did it with only one hoop in middle to meet the bend requirement i would guess.

I saw a bolt in hoop discussed in another thread. Do you think something similar could mount on top of or around the double hoop to get you past some tech inspections? I'm going for primarily a street car but I would like to attend PDX/HPDE style events on occasion.

Edit: Could you possibly skirt the regulation by having each of your hoops be made with a single, sweeping, 140-ish degree bend instead of two 70 degree bends with a flat section in between?

[Aloha818]

Its too bad you didn't make a mold of the license plate insert. I would buy one although I guess if you sold several dozen it would make the style less unique.

The stock rear bumper always seemed to be missing something and its unfortunate that some 'details' like these didn't make it into the initial design


Less unique??? umm. do we understand how few 818's there will be driving around?


Sometimes there is a desire to have a one-off creation but point taken.

Several parts of this build seem to fit so well I get surprised when I look around and realize that it wasn't part of the original FFR design. Chief among these would be the license plate inset and the roll bar modification. I'm sure things will change once my kit arrives and I spend time each day interacting with it, but I often do a double take when I see a picture of an S's roll bar and am momentarily confused that it goes flat across.


I love what has been done on this build and cant wait to see pictures of it finished.

I pressed really hard for the double hoops over the last several years, but no go. Racing requirements say it must be the way it is. Something to do with only two bends allowed or something. See the Lotus 2 eleven. Ariel atom did it with only one hoop in middle to meet the bend requirement i would guess.


What if FFR made an online, open-source version of the manual, and made it like a wiki, where the community could submit edits? (but make it only available to registered forum members). That way, as soon as issues are found, or better ways are invented, they could be posted into the online manual and available to the next builder.

In situations where more than one way of doing something is available, the online open-source manual could just reference all of them, giving builder the choice of which way to do it.

This would act as a way to reconcile all the goodness that is currently squirreled away in endless build threads that new builders have to wade through, giving new builders instant access to all the latest knowledge and tips and tricks.


I totally agree, and I don't understand why the WiKi section of this forum is basically empty. A centralized section for build tips and instructions would IMO streamline searches and can be a tremendous resource.


I saw a bolt in hoop discussed in another thread. Do you think something similar could mount on top of or around the double hoop to get you past some tech inspections? I'm going for primarily a street car but I would like to attend PDX/HPDE style events on occasion.

Edit: Could you possibly skirt the regulation by having each of your hoops be made with a single, sweeping, 140-ish degree bend instead of two 70 degree bends with a flat section in between?

Thanks guys for all your comments and ideas!

License plate mod. I guess a mold could be made, but it can be easily be copied now as you can visualize what I have done. Until you finish a mod like this you only hope it looks good when it's done. Imitation is the best form of flattery right?

Double hoops. I don't plan on racing mine, so I have not done any research. But how do cobras race with only one hoop behind the driver? Maybe make the passenger side bolt on and remove to race?

Open source manual. I would think that someone at FFR would be keeping up with the posts and comments and update "their" manual accordingly. But I also like reading everyone's build threads for ideas and progress. Might be less community involvement if everything was in a manual. Plus, who would we complain about then?;)

[Aloha818]

Door mod.

It's taken me most of the week thinking about how I want to do make this change, and what other impacts it would make. So to recap, I want to move the interior door panel forward about an inch to keep from having to notch it for the jamb mounted strike. This will require the void left to be filed with fiberglass.

Here is the only finished pic I could find, that shows exactly how FFR planned for this area to be finished.
31184

To start I set the door in the opening, with the exterior flush and in its correct location, then marked the inside perimeter to cut the door return off 3/8" from the side sail where the door would touch in the closed position. The door panel will eventually be positioned so that when the door is closed there will be a 1/4" gap to the side of the side sail.

Then I took some thin aluminum sheet and traced the inside of the curve of the rear of the door and taped it in place. Here is a couple shots that kind of show where I'm going. Although the return lip of the interior door panel has not yet been cut to fit.
31185

31186

I'm holding the interior door panel 1" forward of the FFR designed position. After I had the aluminum sheet cut to match the door panel, I traced out where the interior panel will sit, traced the outline, and cut the balance off. Then with some 3/4" x 1/8" steel flat stock I made some 1" 90* angle brackets. After first drilling a hole and scuffing up the mating surface I attached the angle brackets to the door with 5min epoxy.
31180

I will attach the sheet aluminum to the angle brackets with rivets and then layer over the aluminum with about 5-6 layers of Fiberglas mat. Then prime, sand, and paint the doors and mods.

[Boog]

Looks like the first three pictures didn't upload correctly, although it might just be me.

[Aloha818]

Looks like the first three pictures didn't upload correctly, although it might just be me.

Not sure what happened, up now.

[AZPete]

Nice work. Thanks! With over 50,000 views I guess others agree.

[RM1SepEx]

Actually, I just got the rubber from FFR, it wraps around the edge of the door skin and acts as a sort of cushion for the closed door. That photo was sent to me, Erik bought his own molding...

[Aloha818]

Nice work. Thanks! With over 50,000 views I guess others agree.

Thanks! Maybe or maybe just waiting for me to really screw something up!

[Aloha818]

Actually, I just got the rubber from FFR, it wraps around the edge of the door skin and acts as a sort of cushion for the closed door. That photo was sent to me, Erik bought his own molding...

I need to look through my last box and see if I was sent any. I will be using it at the bottom of the door.

[Aloha818]

My last major body mods are the doors and the windshield frame. I haven't completely fastened the painted body panels to the body, but have been working through some to make sure the doors will fit correctly when I'm done changing them. Thought I would share a couple pics to highlight how the hoops look now with some paint on the car.
31249

31250

Next up on the doors was attaching the sheet metal base to my angle brackets with rivets
31251

Then 3 layers of fiberglass
31252

Here is a rough idea on how the parts will all come together. The return part of the door will be about 1/4" away from the body when closed and the door panels will be adjust just proud of the door so that the face of the interior door panel will just about touch the body
31253

31254

I was able to get this done on both doors and started spreading filler.

I also needed to add some fiberglass to the top front of both doors to close the gap, more so on the passenger side. Here is a rough idea on how much I needed to add (tape outline). I put 2 layers on the back and then when hard I put 2 layers on the front
31255

Here you can see how the addition of fiberglass to both doors will look so much better
Passenger
31256

Driver
31257

Fiberglass work sucks! I was able to get all the glass required added and sanded down today, tomorrow I'll try and get the filler on and prime. Back to the booth next Saturday! Yea!

[Scargo]

I totally agree, and I don't understand why the WiKi section of this forum is basically empty. A centralized section for build tips and instructions would IMO streamline searches and can be a tremendous resource.
I am frustrated about how difficult it is to track good data that is scattered throughout build threads and specific topic threads and the fact that there's sometimes no effort made to put a post with an appropriate thread/topic. Kinda like what I/we are doing at the moment by putting our comments in Aloha818's thread.

The Wiki notes says "We welcome new Wiki submissions! Just submit a new thread or post to the car category of your choice and then either report the post - which will notify the mods - or send a PM to a mod with your request to promote it to a Wiki." We have no one to blame but ourselves.

[metalmaker12]

I am frustrated about how difficult it is to track good data that is scattered throughout build threads and specific topic threads and the fact that there's sometimes no effort made to put a post with an appropriate thread/topic. Kinda like what I/we are doing at the moment by putting our comments in Aloha818's thread.

The Wiki notes says "We welcome new Wiki submissions! Just submit a new thread or post to the car category of your choice and then either report the post - which will notify the mods - or send a PM to a mod with your request to promote it to a Wiki." We have no one to blame but ourselves.

I hear ya, I have covered like every topic twice in my threads but the questions are asked over and over. I am kinda tired of re posting, answering etc. between me, aloha and a few others we have covered the whole build and some more than twice, but hard to find.

[bompus]

I started building a Wiki ( outside of this forum ) and fully intended to put all good tips/pics/info I found on it, but haven't really done anything with it yet. If this is something that folks would want to contribute to, let me know.. Otherwise use the Wiki that is part of this forum :)

[RM1SepEx]

I am frustrated about how difficult it is to track good data that is scattered throughout build threads and specific topic threads and the fact that there's sometimes no effort made to put a post with an appropriate thread/topic. Kinda like what I/we are doing at the moment by putting our comments in Aloha818's thread.

The Wiki notes says "We welcome new Wiki submissions! Just submit a new thread or post to the car category of your choice and then either report the post - which will notify the mods - or send a PM to a mod with your request to promote it to a Wiki." We have no one to blame but ourselves.

You need to remember that we are building our cars and are documenting our builds. We all do it differently and it takes quite a bit of energy away from building the car. Grab a few beers and take the time to read the build threads, there are not that many that go very far. Everyone documents differently. I'm so happy that others took the time to share with us. I'm sorry but I'm not able to spend additional time to make it easier. Every time I hit a roadblock I go back through threads and see what others have done. (Thankfully there are only 5-6 to check!) After you share ideas with each other it becomes easier. It is very hard not to get sucked into every thread or discussion but many of these were discussed in detail months ago. This forum does have limitations.

If FFR was to dedicate some resources they could pick, choose, augment and piece together a very nice how to build an 818 resource. The 500+ page manual is barely adequate, without Chis, Craig, Wayne, Erik, Erik, Bob, Pete, Aloha818 (sorry no first name) I wouldn't have the build as far as it is. (I hope I got everyone!)

It's free, enjoy what you get... It's a bargain! :)

[Mechie3]

I agree documenting is nice, but time consuming. Taking pics of finished stuff is easy, remembering to do it as you go and then writing it up takes time. I'm still glad there's at least something.

[Erik W. Treves]

Well put Dan!

[RM1SepEx]

PS I did a really good job of it when it was my job... :) as a new equipment/process engineer in the Semiconducter industry... now, not so much! To do it right takes 3-4 times longer than the build itself...

[Aloha818]

I am frustrated about how difficult it is to track good data that is scattered throughout build threads and specific topic threads and the fact that there's sometimes no effort made to put a post with an appropriate thread/topic. Kinda like what I/we are doing at the moment by putting our comments in Aloha818's thread.

The Wiki notes says "We welcome new Wiki submissions! Just submit a new thread or post to the car category of your choice and then either report the post - which will notify the mods - or send a PM to a mod with your request to promote it to a Wiki." We have no one to blame but ourselves.


I hear ya, I have covered like every topic twice in my threads but the questions are asked over and over. I am kinda tired of re posting, answering etc. between me, aloha and a few others we have covered the whole build and some more than twice, but hard to find.


I started building a Wiki ( outside of this forum ) and fully intended to put all good tips/pics/info I found on it, but haven't really done anything with it yet. If this is something that folks would want to contribute to, let me know.. Otherwise use the Wiki that is part of this forum :)


You need to remember that we are building our cars and are documenting our builds. We all do it differently and it takes quite a bit of energy away from building the car. Grab a few beers and take the time to read the build threads, there are not that many that go very far. Everyone documents differently. I'm so happy that others took the time to share with us. I'm sorry but I'm not able to spend additional time to make it easier. Every time I hit a roadblock I go back through threads and see what others have done. (Thankfully there are only 5-6 to check!) After you share ideas with each other it becomes easier. It is very hard not to get sucked into every thread or discussion but many of these were discussed in detail months ago. This forum does have limitations.

If FFR was to dedicate some resources they could pick, choose, augment and piece together a very nice how to build an 818 resource. The 500+ page manual is barely adequate, without Chis, Craig, Wayne, Erik, Erik, Bob, Pete, Aloha818 (sorry no first name) I wouldn't have the build as far as it is. (I hope I got everyone!)

It's free, enjoy what you get... It's a bargain! :)


Well put Dan!


PS I did a really good job of it when it was my job... :) as a new equipment/process engineer in the Semiconducter industry... now, not so much! To do it right takes 3-4 times longer than the build itself...

Thanks all for your comments and feedback! It is sometimes frustrating when you need a quick answer to how to put something together, no answer in the manual, then you have to read through several threads to find what you are looking for, sometimes I remember whose thread has the info I need, sometimes not, then an hour later your still looking. But hey, if it was easy anyone could do it!

I try to post what changes I make and I have tried to be inclusive of the paint and body prep as I haven't found much by others. It seems that engine mods get a lot of comments, buying a bunch of parts and engine building is easy and well documented (well at least the buying) spend 2 months with filler, primer, fiberglass, and paint and you figure out what is difficult and not very well documented. Sorry, spent the day again with fiberglass, filler and primer!

[Aloha818]

Finally got through the fab and Fiberglas on the doors and spayed out with primer. Really happy with the look so far
31396

31397

This is where FFR cut too much off the top front of the passenger door, glass from the back
31398

In primer
31399

Started on the windshield frame today. I want to get rid of the sharp rake back on the frame above the doors. So I'm building down the frame and level off 1/4" above the top of the door, after cleaning up the inside of the frame I started laying up some glass from the inside down. Since 3 angles are involved it took me three batches of glass to get a base for each section.
31400

31401

I have already ripped out the plastic trim installed by FFR between the gap of the two pieces of glass that make up the frame. I will glass the crack over and make it all like one piece. Reason again goes back to my OEM build philosophy.

I should be able to spray out the doors this weekend. I guess I need to start planning out windshield wipers. I was waiting for the FFR answer, but too late for me as my hood was painted before it came out. I only have about 1 1/4" max gap in the center between the hood and windshield glass. Any comments?

[metalmaker12]

I did the same with the windshield surround. Like door mod :cool:

[Aloha818]

I did the same with the windshield surround. Like door mod :cool:

Post some pics! Did you remove the plastic trim piece and glass over too?

[Aloha818]

I finally have the doors modified, primed, and sanded ready for paint. It's taken all my free time the last couple weeks to get everything the way I wanted. The doors are pretty much the only large flat surfaces on the body, so I spent a good couple days blocking, filling, priming to get them "flat". It took me 6 hours today final wet sanding.

Since I'm building down the windshield frame and I added extra glass to the top front areas of the doors, I needed to fit the doors again, cut back a little of the glass I added, and make sure that everything was good before paint.

Way better fitment and coverage of gaps now. If you look in at the right angle through the gap you can still see the end of the top of the door. But you have to have this for the door to open all the way. I also set the distance of the door, at the front, out away from the body a little so that the line of the top of the fender aligns with the body line on the door. Anyway, here are some pics

31459

31460

31461

31462

31463

31464

31465

[Aloha818]

I'm happy to report that my effort on the doors has been completed successfully!

Took the doors over to the shop and in the booth this morning. Since I basically have paint on all 6 sides I had to rig up a support to hold the door so I could paint all sides at one time

31504

31505

3 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear later

31506

31507

Looking pretty "flat" especially for black (and me). I know pro's could do better in less time, but it is a little satisfying to see complete. I left the steel frame, lock and screws in the door and painted over the screws. Hopefully I won't ever have to take the hardware off! But looks pretty clean.

Now all I have left to paint is the rear deck spoiler (like Wallace's from a Tiburon) and the windshield surround. Hopefully I will have enough time this week to finish glassing over the joint on the windshield frame and get everything ready to paint next Saturday.

[metalmaker12]

Nice man, looking almost complete

[wallace18]

Very nice!

[WIS89]

Everything is looking terrific. Nice paint!

I noticed that Hula girl didn't have on a respirator, is she ok?

Looking good.

Regards,

Steve

[VD2021]

Looking pretty "flat" especially for black (and me). I know pro's could do better in less time, but it is a little satisfying to see complete.

You're doing an Outstanding job and building the way I always think of when I think of a FFR build.

[Hindsight]

I really can't wait to see how this turns out, and especially get a look at the FIRST real all black 818 (since I will be doing the same color). I don't have the body fab skills you do so I won't be modding much of anything on the body but I am really looking forward to seeing the fit and finish on yours just to know what's possible.

The info on all the prep work for the body and paint is VERY appreciated and will help me quite a bit since this will be my first DIY paint job.

[Aloha818]

Nice man, looking almost complete


Very nice!


Everything is looking terrific. Nice paint!

I noticed that Hula girl didn't have on a respirator, is she ok?

Looking good.

Regards,

Steve


You're doing an Outstanding job and building the way I always think of when I think of a FFR build.


I really can't wait to see how this turns out, and especially get a look at the FIRST real all black 818 (since I will be doing the same color). I don't have the body fab skills you do so I won't be modding much of anything on the body but I am really looking forward to seeing the fit and finish on yours just to know what's possible.

The info on all the prep work for the body and paint is VERY appreciated and will help me quite a bit since this will be my first DIY paint job.

Thanks all for the compliments and comments! I not sure how much each of you have done body and paint work (except for metalmaker), but until you do you can't really appreciate the anguish that happens just before you start to lay down color! And all the time leading up to that day, as your prepping for paint you are always wondering if you are getting it right. I know that people that do this for a living are probably laughing at my posts, but at least those like me that are not professional can understand where I'm coming from and at least learn enough to ask the pros questions.

Hula Girl just watches through the glass! She only comes in after the fumes are gone for the photo op. She says thanks for your concern. ;)

Hindsight, thanks for posting and enjoy your build experience. I'm probably crazy to make all these little changes. Probably no one will appreciate them but me and maybe others that know the 818. Please double check everything I've posted with your local professional, every paint supplier and brands of paint have different specs and sand to requirements.

I'll pick up my doors in the morning and try to install later this week, getting closer again to dropping off the jack stands and getting to take another test drive!

[Aloha818]

I'm down to two parts left to paint. The windshield frame and my rear deck lid spoiler. While I had the frame in place and my doors swinging I glassed in the bottom of the frame to be level with the top of the doors and eliminate the racked back angle. Spent a couple hours today to epoxy in the joint between the two halves of the fiberglass that make up the surround. I had previously removed the plastic trim that FFR had installed to "clean up" this connection.

After I removed the frame from the car I used my angle grinder and roughed up the return portion for the epoxy to grab on to. Also, found several voids in the glass in this area, so for those painting and or leaving as is, be careful, barely gelcoat covering a couple big holes.

31526

Then I used epoxy to secure and fill the gap

31527

31528

This epoxy needs to cure overnight, so tomorrow I will start to spread some filler. The spoiler shouldn't take much prep, but it is like 12 years old so will take some work. Once I get the frame and the spoiler ready for paint I'll finish setting the body and doors and get this thing out into the sunlight. Can't wait to see it whole and clean again. Then in the booth again Saturday, hopefully for the last time.

The rest of the build will be a little quicker, I hope. My last major "challenge" is the windshield wiper and designing a "bikini" top. Here in Hawaii I'm more concerned with an occasional "rain" and sun more than anything else. The FFR solution is kind of overkill for me and I don't want to have any fasteners on the body.

I'm thinking of something between the bikini top on my Jeep and what Porsche has. Maybe the u-channel across the windshield frame like on my Jeep, a support bar that bolts to the back across my two hoops, and receiver for rear straps inside the body through the engine cover intake slots on each side, similar to Porsche. Everything to be designed to remove and fit in the trunk without a lot of fasteners/connections left when the top if off to make you wonder what is missing.

31529

Any comments would be appreciated! Thanks.

[metalmaker12]

That 6/10 tube is very good stuff, I love it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm thinking of something between the bikini top on my Jeep and what Porsche has. Maybe the u-channel across the windshield frame like on my Jeep, a support bar that bolts to the back across my two hoops, and receiver for rear straps inside the body through the engine cover intake slots on each side, similar to Porsche. Everything to be designed to remove and fit in the trunk without a lot of fasteners/connections left when the top if off to make you wonder what is missing.

Any comments would be appreciated! Thanks.

Hi Aloha818 and Hula Girl,
First let me say: Great job. I look for you post every morning.

I also am entertaining a Bikini top idea. I'm planning on using some awning track for the front windshield edge.
See attached photos.
Bob
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[RM1SepEx]

I'm with you. I want to add a sort of targa bar over the roll bar, widen's the top at the occupant's head and supports the top. Use a "frankenstein bolt" like a miata uses for the hard top in the rear and a strap with a latch and the ability to pull it tight.... perhaps some strong elestic to aid in keeping it tight

[Hindsight]

And all the time leading up to that day, as your prepping for paint you are always wondering if you are getting it right. I know that people that do this for a living are probably laughing at my posts, but at least those like me that are not professional can understand where I'm coming from and at least learn enough to ask the pros questions.

The first and last time I did any body work was a bit over half a lifetime ago when I was 18. I had a 1968 VW Bug that needed a lot of body work and then a paint job. I did all the body work myself which was a real challenge for a novice since everything was so curvy.... not a single flat surface on that car! Someone else sprayed the paint. It turned out great, as I'm sure yours will..... I think a lot of us tend to go for perfection in doing body work, for the reasons you mention above, and we are surprised to see how good it looks after the paint is on.

As for no one noticing the little changes but yourself.... well, that's all that's important right? Otherwise just go buy a car :) Keep up the great work.

[wleehendrick]

I also am entertaining a Bikini top idea. I'm planning on using some awning track for the front windshield edge.
See attached photos.
Bob
31532315333153431535

I really want a bikini top, and I know several others do as well. I talked to Dru at Huntington Beach about it, and he has an upholstery guy he knows. I suggest we work together and group buy/fab the parts, or at least share design details. I'm a ways off from having my windshield frame and body on to take measurements, but will be willing to help out in the process in any way.

Lee

[C.Plavan]

I really want a bikini top, and I know several others do as well. I talked to Dru at Huntington Beach about it, and he has an upholstery guy he knows. I suggest we work together and group buy/fab the parts, or at least share design details. I'm a ways off from having my windshield frame and body on to take measurements, but will be willing to help out in the process in any way.

Lee

Mazda stole that idea from Porsche. That top is so similar to what is on my Spyder.

[flynntuna]

Looks that way.

[TahoeTim]

gawd awful

[Aloha818]

That 6/10 tube is very good stuff, I love it.

I picked the 6/10 up to fill this gap on the windshield frame and to add security to some of the places I used 5-min epoxy for installation speed. Glad it's got a good recommendation.

[Aloha818]

The first and last time I did any body work was a bit over half a lifetime ago when I was 18. I had a 1968 VW Bug that needed a lot of body work and then a paint job. I did all the body work myself which was a real challenge for a novice since everything was so curvy.... not a single flat surface on that car! Someone else sprayed the paint. It turned out great, as I'm sure yours will..... I think a lot of us tend to go for perfection in doing body work, for the reasons you mention above, and we are surprised to see how good it looks after the paint is on.

As for no one noticing the little changes but yourself.... well, that's all that's important right? Otherwise just go buy a car :) Keep up the great work.

Hindsight, thanks for commenting and adding to the forum. Well the 818 is similar to your bug, almost no straight panels anywhere!

[Aloha818]

Hi Aloha818 and Hula Girl,
First let me say: Great job. I look for you post every morning.

I also am entertaining a Bikini top idea. I'm planning on using some awning track for the front windshield edge.
See attached photos.
Bob
31532315333153431535


I'm with you. I want to add a sort of targa bar over the roll bar, widen's the top at the occupant's head and supports the top. Use a "frankenstein bolt" like a miata uses for the hard top in the rear and a strap with a latch and the ability to pull it tight.... perhaps some strong elestic to aid in keeping it tight


I really want a bikini top, and I know several others do as well. I talked to Dru at Huntington Beach about it, and he has an upholstery guy he knows. I suggest we work together and group buy/fab the parts, or at least share design details. I'm a ways off from having my windshield frame and body on to take measurements, but will be willing to help out in the process in any way.

Lee


Mazda stole that idea from Porsche. That top is so similar to what is on my Spyder.


Looks that way.


gawd awful

Thanks all for jumping in with your comments! I didn't realize that so many others had interest in a bikini top. I guess I hadn't read anyone making any comments.

Bob, thanks for the compliments! That is exactly what I had in mind for the overall look of the bikini top. The only attachment points being the inside of the windshield, the crossbar near the roll bar, and tie downs in the opening of the engine cover for the rear. Perfect!

Wheelhendrick, great idea. No sense in several people trying to invent the same thing. I'm about a week or two away from finishing putting the body together for the last time. When I'm done I would be happy to send measurements in. Let me know how I can get this started. I was planning on taking my car over to a local shop and see how we could come up with something, but then would be expensive for everyone else to pay to ship from Hawaii.

[wleehendrick]

Wheelhendrick, great idea. No sense in several people trying to invent the same thing. I'm about a week or two away from finishing putting the body together for the last time. When I'm done I would be happy to send measurements in. Let me know how I can get this started. I was planning on taking my car over to a local shop and see how we could come up with something, but then would be expensive for everyone else to pay to ship from Hawaii.

I'll start a new thread in the body section so we can put all our ideas and approaches in one place. I'll copy over some existing posts, and if you don't mind sharing your solution there, that would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Lee

[Mechie3]

There's an older thread about bikini tops. ;)

I bought both the 818s and 818r CD models too. :D

[Mechie3]

Found it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10545-Simple-Soft-Top-(bikini-s-inside!)&highlight=bikini

[wleehendrick]

Found it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10545-Simple-Soft-Top-(bikini-s-inside!)&highlight=bikini

Thanks, Craig! I knew it had been discussed before. I'm definitely up for this, so if someone beats me to it (and they probably will) I'll link into that thread to try to keep it current.

[Mechie3]

Not to get too off topic but....

My mom is staying with us (wife and I) to help with the baby. She just bought a new sewing/embroidery machine and brought it with her. Have to ask if she's still into helping me. Just heard back from FFR too. I'll be able to buy their windshield to soft top mounting hardware. It'd be nice for any solution to be compatible with other solutions.

[Aloha818]

Windshield frame prep continues. After the epoxy sat overnight I started spreading filler. I had just finished up the Extreme model filler, bought the Gold this time. I like the Extreme better for running thin skim coats, way less air bubbles. Also the Extreme sets up faster to sand without gumming up the sandpaper. Also started getting the spoiler ready for paint.

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I rounded the exterior corners all around, looks good

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Then into primer. Looks much cleaner now without that plastic trim.

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Wet sand tomorrow and into the booth on Saturday.

Next week I'll get the glass installed and start really looking at the bikini top.

[Aloha818]

Light day at work, so I thought I would take advantage and paint the last of the parts.

Had to get a little creative on how to support the parts and still have access to paint all sides
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Naturally the last parts are my best work!

The windshield frame looks so nice being a continuous painted surface. The 14 year old spoiler looks better than new.

I've been working in a complete mess as I didn't want to spend the time cleaning up with so much more filler and sanding to do. So I've retired my can of filler and cleaned up this afternoon. Tomorrow I can actually start re-building an 818. I've been on paint duty so long I hope I can remember what goes where!

If everything goes good I'll be able to take a test drive again tomorrow:)

[Aloha818]

I spent the day putting the painted body panels back on. As typical, it took a little longer than I thought it would. Since I hope this will be the last time for assembly, a tweak here, a tweak there. A little demel, here a little dremel there, most of the day. I bet I took the doors off and on at least 8 times each side to get just a little more perfect. Still have at least one more time each side for minor tweets.

I am very happy with all the extra work and prep I went through to get to this point. The car totally looks like any production car. Even gaps, straight lines, blind panel attachment (only hood pins will be locking type to secure trunk), and with the elimination of the plastic trim on the windshield surround turned out great!

The trunk and engine cover are both installed. I included a pic of the front of the hood lining up with the bumper, a little work and it can be done!

I think while I have the car on jack stands I'm going to go ahead and install and paint the inner wheel wells.

Here are some pics, pretty dusty though;

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[Aloha818]

While I have the car on jack stands I'm installing the fender well aluminum, painting with bedliner, installing vent mesh, and misc items that will be covered up by the aluminum.

It took me about 12 hours to fit, notch, clean scuff and paint the aluminum. I did not drill every rivet hole, but enough to cleco everything in place. No major issues, but did require notching and cutting around the fenders and obstacles.

Since I painted the front of the side sails, I cut the FFR supplied aluminum off in this area of both front fenderwells.

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I had to move the seats so I could remove the rear wheel and install aluminum, what better place than where they go! If only temporary.

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First piece of mesh, looks really clean without any trim.

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[metalmaker12]

While I have the car on jack stands I'm installing the fender well aluminum, painting with bedliner, installing vent mesh, and misc items that will be covered up by the aluminum.

It took me about 12 hours to fit, notch, clean scuff and paint the aluminum. I did not drill every rivet hole, but enough to cleco everything in place. No major issues, but did require notching and cutting around the fenders and obstacles.

Since I painted the front of the side sails, I cut the FFR supplied aluminum off in this area of both front fenderwells.

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I had to move the seats so I could remove the rear wheel and install aluminum, what better place than where they go! If only temporary.

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First piece of mesh, looks really clean without any trim.

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Don't just scuff the aluminum, it needs to be hit with like 60-80 on a flap wheel so it bits hard and stays on forever.

Ps: car is looking greeeeeat!

[Hindsight]

Lookin good! Do you know how well the bedliner will hold up to rocks, and if it will offer much accoustic deadening? Any idea on the amount of weight it adds?

[metalmaker12]

Lookin good! Do you know how well the bedliner will hold up to rocks, and if it will offer much accoustic deadening? Any idea on the amount of weight it adds?

It's holding up to rocks very well, no chips after about 1,000 miles and it deadens the road noise very well.

Weight, that's what the tune is for lol, it does not add to much, maybe 15lbs if you cover all the wheel well and the surrounding area aluminum.

[Aloha818]

Don't just scuff the aluminum, it needs to be hit with like 60-80 on a flap wheel so it bits hard and stays on forever.

Ps: car is looking greeeeeat!


You mean like this 60 grit;

31971

I also pre clean with acetone first.

Thanks for the compliment!

[Aloha818]

Lookin good! Do you know how well the bedliner will hold up to rocks, and if it will offer much accoustic deadening? Any idea on the amount of weight it adds?


It's holding up to rocks very well, no chips after about 1,000 miles and it deadens the road noise very well.

Weight, that's what the tune is for lol, it does not add to much, maybe 15lbs if you cover all the wheel well and the surrounding area aluminum.

Like metalmaker said, bedliner lasts well, I painted in my Jeeps wheel wells 3 years ago and they look like new.

I'm going to use almost a gallon of bedliner on my 818, this includes painting almost all aluminum and all of the backside of all the fiberglass panels. I can't imagine that a gallon even weighs 10 lbs and probably 25% is the carrier that will evaporate.

Not sure what the acoustic benefit will be, but it will will be some, and at least better than just black paint that would still be needed to make the wheel wells look good.

[Aloha818]

Spent the last two days trying to finish up everything under the car and in the wheel wells so I can put the wheels/tires back on and drop the car to the ground.

I installed the mesh in both front and rear wheel areas, found a couple places that the brake line needed additional supports, needed to paint bedliner on the aluminum under the seating area, finish riveting the side sails, tighten some suspension bits and install cotter pins, the list goes on!

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[Aloha818]

The windshield should get installed before the end of the week, and I needed to clean the shop and get rid of the dust to get ready to start on the interior. So I drove it outside and gave it a quick blow off and wash.

I'm very excited on how this car looks, very sexy!

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Tomorrow I need to reinstall the rear lighting and the gas fill cap. Then a quick run and some more pics!

[tango68ss]

Nice! Black is the new Orange! LOL!!

[bil1024]

WOW!!!!!!!!!! Can not wait to see it all done, awesome job! Love the wing on the back too!

[Quiny]

What was the rear spoiler from? It goes really well with the car.

[Scargo]

You mean like this 60 grit;

31971

I also pre clean with acetone first.

Thanks for the compliment!That doesn't hurt but I would recommend an aluminum "metal prep" as a last step before painting aluminum. Like Afterblast (http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-afterblast.html#) which etches and leaves a zinc phosphate coating.
Carry on... nice work!

[RM1SepEx]

Quiny Tiburon

Scargo zinc phosphate etching is more for steel than aluminum, his aggressive scratching/etching should work fine since aluminum doesn't have a flash oxidation issue like steel

[mikeb75]

Car looks amazing Aloha.

[Oppenheimer]

Not sure if its the color, or the custom touches like the roll hoops, or the obsessive attention to detail of door gaps and panel alignment, or the excellent body prep, (or all of the above), but you can really see how great the FFR design looks with this car. It really does look awesome.

Maybe Jims design has grown on us a little, or maybe over time all the visions of what we individually wished for from all the design contest prototypes have faded, but wow, that just looks sooo good (and I'm not usually a fan of black cars). The way the curves of fender and Q panel flow, the vents, the aggressive look of the rear fender flares and humps. Just fantastic.

You've made FFR's vision really come to life. I'd like to see FFR look at incorporating some of your designs into the next 818 revision. Especially the roll hoops, sunken license plate (though I realize that complicates things for euro plates, 818 is a World Car), etc.

[305mouse]

That looks really really good. I like the two hoops and even the red seats, which I didn't think I would.

[waruaki]

Every inch a fantastic build!

[Hindsight]

Stunning!

[ehansen007]

Wow. Now let's see some sunset/golden hour pics with a good camera. Wish I was there!

[WIS89]

Wow. Now let's see some sunset/golden hour pics with a good camera. Wish I was there!

Erik-

I agree with one modest addition. I was hoping he could do the sunset picture with the girl in his avatar! To me, that would be perfect.

Awesome car with a stunning model at a location as close to heaven as there is. In my opinion at least.

The car is simply amazing, and I can't wait to see the final pictures!

Regards,

Steve

[metalmaker12]

The windshield should get installed before the end of the week, and I needed to clean the shop and get rid of the dust to get ready to start on the interior. So I drove it outside and gave it a quick blow off and wash.

I'm very excited on how this car looks, very sexy!

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Tomorrow I need to reinstall the rear lighting and the gas fill cap. Then a quick run and some more pics!

I never really liked the orange on the 818, but I like the black. I hate red seats and not a fan of the spoiler off the car, but you made it work nicely man. Looking like a car, and besides my love for white, blue, gunmetal and red on this car, the black is totally on my list with your beautiful body work. Now be careful and drive it fast.

[AZPete]

What a tease. One soapy shot and two with water drops. Like other guys, I look forward to the professional-quality shots of this outstanding 818. (or, a soapy shot of the hula girl)

I really look forward to seeing how you'll do the interior. I somewhat copied your E-brake mounting and used your source for seat belts so I know I'll love your interior ideas.

[flynntuna]

Let me add my voice to the choir, your decision to reshape the roll bar has been a home run! That mod has given the car a refined look that puts it in a class by itself (cliche alert!). Congrats. :cool:

[Aloha818]

Nice! Black is the new Orange! LOL!!


WOW!!!!!!!!!! Can not wait to see it all done, awesome job! Love the wing on the back too!


What was the rear spoiler from? It goes really well with the car.


That doesn't hurt but I would recommend an aluminum "metal prep" as a last step before painting aluminum. Like Afterblast (http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-afterblast.html#) which etches and leaves a zinc phosphate coating.
Carry on... nice work!


Quiny Tiburon

Scargo zinc phosphate etching is more for steel than aluminum, his aggressive scratching/etching should work fine since aluminum doesn't have a flash oxidation issue like steel


Car looks amazing Aloha.


That looks really really good. I like the two hoops and even the red seats, which I didn't think I would.


Every inch a fantastic build!


Stunning!


I never really liked the orange on the 818, but I like the black. I hate red seats and not a fan of the spoiler off the car, but you made it work nicely man. Looking like a car, and besides my love for white, blue, gunmetal and red on this car, the black is totally on my list with your beautiful body work. Now be careful and drive it fast.

All, thanks very much for the compliments and I'm glad you all are generally pleased with my choices in colors and mods!

As you are all in the family, so to speak, and can actually understand what it requires to make all these decisions and then successfully execute on them.

I have to say I really liked the orange builds, but we can't all choose the same color. I was hoping that with the design of the car, the mods I'm making and the quality if the exterior finish that just being black will still garner attention. I had the car out of the garage again today and everybody in the area kept stopping by to stare and talk!

The spoiler is from a 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, I stole the idea from Wallace (along with the Hollywood mirrors that I haven't put on yet). In my opinion no one could design a better spoiler, even if starting from scratch. The spoiler completely matches the width and the angles and looks exactly like it was designed for the 818. Wallace did good on finding the match. An added bonus is the 3rd brake light.

The red seats were definitely a gamble. Black would have been a safe choice. But hey, I wanted a little flash!

[Aloha818]

Wow. Now let's see some sunset/golden hour pics with a good camera. Wish I was there!


Erik-

I agree with one modest addition. I was hoping he could do the sunset picture with the girl in his avatar! To me, that would be perfect.

Awesome car with a stunning model at a location as close to heaven as there is. In my opinion at least.

The car is simply amazing, and I can't wait to see the final pictures!

Regards,

Steve


Not sure if its the color, or the custom touches like the roll hoops, or the obsessive attention to detail of door gaps and panel alignment, or the excellent body prep, (or all of the above), but you can really see how great the FFR design looks with this car. It really does look awesome.

Maybe Jims design has grown on us a little, or maybe over time all the visions of what we individually wished for from all the design contest prototypes have faded, but wow, that just looks sooo good (and I'm not usually a fan of black cars). The way the curves of fender and Q panel flow, the vents, the aggressive look of the rear fender flares and humps. Just fantastic.

You've made FFR's vision really come to life. I'd like to see FFR look at incorporating some of your designs into the next 818 revision. Especially the roll hoops, sunken license plate (though I realize that complicates things for euro plates, 818 is a World Car), etc.

Thanks all for commenting and the compliments.

As soon as I get finished and get some tags I will for sure grab a couple models and a photographer and some beach shots! If you've ever been to Honolulu you know there is no shortage of hotties around.

Oppenheimer, Hula Girl is blushing. I really need to get some better pics. What I have posted so far still does not really show how beautiful and sexy this car is. Each little detail helps refine the overall design. The windshield glass install will really help, but when you look at my 818 it doesn't not "feel" like a "kit"car.

[Aloha818]

What a tease. One soapy shot and two with water drops. Like other guys, I look forward to the professional-quality shots of this outstanding 818. (or, a soapy shot of the hula girl)

I really look forward to seeing how you'll do the interior. I somewhat copied your E-brake mounting and used your source for seat belts so I know I'll love your interior ideas.


Let me add my voice to the choir, your decision to reshape the roll bar has been a home run! That mod has given the car a refined look that puts it in a class by itself (cliche alert!). Congrats. :cool:

Thanks so much guys! Soapy Hula Girl shots, maybe a Carl Jr's (?) Ad?

Tomorrow I start on the interior, we will see how that goes. I have also ordered the technical bits to start the bikini top mod.

[Aloha818]

Spent the day continuing to work on the exterior. Finished adjusting the passenger door and installing the catch.

Then moved on to the hood vents. I had originally planned on wrapping the FFR screen cover in carbon fiber film and installing as per the manual. The more I kept thinking about it I couldn't get my head around the fact that there would be about a 3/16" gap between the backside of the trim and the screen. So I put on back burner while I thought about it. Then I installed the screen, no trim, on the front wheel and rear wheel vents. I had planned on this and made sure I prepped and painted ahead of time. In my opinion it looks good and clean. You notice the mesh (powder coated satin black, BTW), but does not jump out and make you pay attention. I wanted the same for the rest of the mesh on the car.

In preparation for the glass install I needed some trim to wrap the inside edge of the windshield surround before they installed the glass. The FFR cap trim that I removed from the outside of the windshield surround would have worked but it was a little too short. I stopped by O'Riely auto parts and picked up some protective door edge trim, it's black plastic and has a small amount of adhesive in inside. Worked perfect for the surround.

Then I started thinking that this also might work for the edge of the fiberglass around the rest of the mesh. Did a little sample and looked perfect, so back to O'Riely. Of course this meant recutting all the fiberglass edges again, this time on completed painted/finished panels!

This trim is a little narrower than the FFR trim and bends pretty good on the inside radius. I laid it out on top of tape, 3/8" in from the surrounding edges and used a 1" socket to trace the corners, about the min dim to not deform the trim.

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Then I reinstalled the gas filler (new design)

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Then on to the rear, reinstalled the lights, the license plate holder, installed some small LED lights over the license plate (in the overhang), then the same cut, install trim, install mesh on the lower area. Some will not like my choice of how I have my exhaust outlet. It's on one side and comes out at a little angle. It's as straight of an exit possible and leaves me some room for a trunk. Kind of like a crooked baseball cap! I have about 3/8" gap between the tip and the black plastic trim, we will see if that's enough.

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[RM1SepEx]

Nice job on the edging around the vents, I'm also struggling with the vents and the gaps when you put screen behind and trim in front of the bodywork. My orange vent screens and white body don't translate as easy as the black tho

With the finished paint it didn't look good w/o trim at all?

I'm playing with exhaust right now, how much does your engine rock when under power etc... I'm thinking that unless we either increase mount stiffness and/or add an anti torque strut like Subaru used on the transmission we will have issues where the pipe exits the body. Joe at FFR tells me 3/4 inch is adequate clearance to the fiberglass based on their Cobra experience over the years

[metalmaker12]

Looking great!!!!!

[Aloha818]

Nice job on the edging around the vents, I'm also struggling with the vents and the gaps when you put screen behind and trim in front of the bodywork. My orange vent screens and white body don't translate as easy as the black tho

With the finished paint it didn't look good w/o trim at all?

I'm playing with exhaust right now, how much does your engine rock when under power etc... I'm thinking that unless we either increase mount stiffness and/or add an anti torque strut like Subaru used on the transmission we will have issues where the pipe exits the body. Joe at FFR tells me 3/4 inch is adequate clearance to the fiberglass based on their Cobra experience over the years

Thanks!

I originally planned to use the FFR supplied trim on the hood and the rear bumper, so I didn't prep/paint the edge. Then changed my mind. By using the black plastic trim these two areas look very similar to the thin rounded edges on all the brake vents.

Not sure how much the engine rocks yet. I plan on building a brace for the exhaust tip just behind the screen so it stays put and let the exhaust system flex with the engine. If too much I will probably brace the engine too.

Did you ever figure out how to trim the sides below the engine cover between the back of the seats and the door opening?

[Aloha818]

Looking great!!!!!

Thanks Metal!

[Aloha818]

It's been a light week for me at work so I was able to devote most of my time to the build.

Today I built a couple brackets to hold the transmission (auto) cooler. It is placed just behind the drivers side quarter vent opening

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As I mentioned earlier, by building misc brackets I eliminated all the FFR designed hood pins. I did use a set of keyed locks to lock/hold down the rear of the trunk. The lock started out as a NRG carbon fiber locking hood pin set. But I thought it looked cleaner with just the cylinder showing. Not a lot of load here anyway. Crappy pic, sorry.

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I've been debating on how/what color to paint the hoops. Since I know that with the engine cover sitting on them and installing/removing my future bikini top brace that the paint will get scratched up and look worn later. If I painted the body color then it would be a lot of work to touch up. So I went a little different route and painted the hoops and the aluminum rear and lower covers with spray on bedliner. A little texture and will be easier to touch up if and when needed.

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Also tried my hand at upholstery work. I wrapped the firewall with leather (faux) and screwed in placed. I need to take a better pic. Was a little rushed today, going to the Jack Johnson concert tonight at the Waikiki Shell.

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About the time I was finishing up wrapping the panel the glazer showed up and put the windshield in. Starting to look like a real car now! I also installed that black plastic trim around the inside edge of the windshield surround first and then used the PGW17JR rubber trim around the glass.

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[Aloha818]

No build progress today. Enjoyed the day with the family. Had a great time at the Jack Johnson concert last night. Not your typical type of concert, more family oriented. Proceeds for the show go to the Kokua Hawaii Foundation, a non profit for environmental education in Hawaii.

No better place to enjoy a concert as the Waikiki Shell, pit in front of the stage, then some actual seating, and then a huge grassy area to sit on blankets and enjoy the fantastic Hawaiian weather! We bought seat, pit passes and also spread out a blanket (needed nap before concert from working on 818 all day).

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Then when the show started getting going, down to the pit, up close and personal.

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Starting to enjoy life a little now that paint and prep is over!!!!!

[shinn497]

Did you make the car longer? It looks like it in the photos. I can't wait to see more. I really like that spoiler.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks!

I originally planned to use the FFR supplied trim on the hood and the rear bumper, so I didn't prep/paint the edge. Then changed my mind. By using the black plastic trim these two areas look very similar to the thin rounded edges on all the brake vents.

Not sure how much the engine rocks yet. I plan on building a brace for the exhaust tip just behind the screen so it stays put and let the exhaust system flex with the engine. If too much I will probably brace the engine too.

Did you ever figure out how to trim the sides below the engine cover between the back of the seats and the door opening?

FFR puts that piece of aluminum between the frame and the striker bracket, that leaves the bolts showing. I'm planning on making an aluminum cover and my interior will be covered in black vinyl, FFR did it with carpet, looks like it is just laying over the bolts

32115

[STiPWRD]

About the time I was finishing up wrapping the panel the glazer showed up and put the windshield in.
Mind sharing how much it cost to get the wind shield installed (rough ball park)? I'm trying to research to see if I can do this but if it's cheap enough I'd just let a pro do it. Thanks

[Oppenheimer]

I like the flatness and texture of the rollbars. I think you made the right coating choice here. Adds a nice contrast with the shiny body. Durable. Won't show fingerprints. Bars are for utility, so this is the correct appearance IMO.

It would be a little cheesy, but did you consider adding a second, fake exhaust tip to the other side to add visual balance?

You do realize that now when anyone from FFR community goes on vacation to Honolulu they are going to want to see your car?

FFR Honolulu ToDo list:
- Waikiki Beach
- Pearl Harbor
- Diamond Head
- Hula Girl & FFR 818

[VD2021]

You do realize that now when anyone from FFR community goes on vacation to Honolulu they are going to want to see your car?

FFR Honolulu ToDo list:
- Waikiki Beach
- Pearl Harbor
- Diamond Head
- Hula Girl & FFR 818

Ditto :).

It just becomes another way to meet some great people. You just have to keep track of the time. It will pass quickly without you realizing.....

You've done an outstanding job and I'm eager to see it complete with a Hawaiian sunset in the background.:cool:

[Harley818]

Aloha,
I'm checking your updates first when I find time to check in with FFR forum. You never disappoint. The car looks awesome, and I like the rollbar mods, licence plate recess and other details. Hope you don't mind if I copy a couple ideas......
Thanks to your detail pics and updates, I don't feel as intimidated by the bodywork. Thanks for showing the rest of us. I'm just getting the suspension and engine put together so I'm along ways off, but looking forward to the bodywork now.
Keep it up.

[Aloha818]

Did you make the car longer? It looks like it in the photos. I can't wait to see more. I really like that spoiler.

Thanks for asking. No, one thing I didn't modify was the frame and overall dimensions. Must be the black paint, just like a woman in a black dress. Makes her look thinner and taller!

[Aloha818]

FFR puts that piece of aluminum between the frame and the striker bracket, that leaves the bolts showing. I'm planning on making an aluminum cover and my interior will be covered in black vinyl, FFR did it with carpet, looks like it is just laying over the bolts

32115

Thanks Dan. Post pics if you get there before me. I'm working in interior now too. I'll do the same.

[Aloha818]

Mind sharing how much it cost to get the wind shield installed (rough ball park)? I'm trying to research to see if I can do this but if it's cheap enough I'd just let a pro do it. Thanks

Thanks for joining in and posting. I paid $125 which included suppling the PGW17JR rubber moulding, primer for adhesive, adhesive and installation. I might have gotten a deal as the installer (professional) is the brother of one of my friends.

[Aloha818]

I like the flatness and texture of the rollbars. I think you made the right coating choice here. Adds a nice contrast with the shiny body. Durable. Won't show fingerprints. Bars are for utility, so this is the correct appearance IMO.

It would be a little cheesy, but did you consider adding a second, fake exhaust tip to the other side to add visual balance?

You do realize that now when anyone from FFR community goes on vacation to Honolulu they are going to want to see your car?

FFR Honolulu ToDo list:
- Waikiki Beach
- Pearl Harbor
- Diamond Head
- Hula Girl & FFR 818

Oppenheimer, I'm glad you agree with my paint choices. As I have started finishing more of the interior the choice, to me, looks even better.

I'm a symmetrical person, I would really have loved to have dual exhaust exits. But I can't have it all I guess. For trunk space I had to give up the extra piping required. I do think to add a faux exhaust tip would be cheesy. As a whole I'm happy with how it's all turning out. My buddy (amateur photographer) came by today and we started talking about a photo shoot (with some real Hula Girls). Better pics should show it looks fine as is.

Having visitors is always a pleasure here in Hawaii! Please come on and I welcome all to come to see both Hawaii and the 818!

[Aloha818]

Aloha,
I'm checking your updates first when I find time to check in with FFR forum. You never disappoint. The car looks awesome, and I like the rollbar mods, licence plate recess and other details. Hope you don't mind if I copy a couple ideas......
Thanks to your detail pics and updates, I don't feel as intimidated by the bodywork. Thanks for showing the rest of us. I'm just getting the suspension and engine put together so I'm along ways off, but looking forward to the bodywork now.
Keep it up.

Harley, thanks for posting and I'm glad you are enjoying my build and project updates! Copy anything you like and if you need any specific details lot me know. I've copied from metalmaker, Wallace and others, it's all in an effort to get the most we can out of our builds.

Enjoy the bodywork! I hated every minute if it while enjoying it and wouldn't have it any other way. I know, doesn't make sense. But in my opinion, nothing can make this car look more "real" than proper prep and paint! For me it's all fun in the building, although starting to think about what it's going to be like to actually start driving it!

Have fun.

[Aloha818]

Not much progress today, spent a little more time on a proper wash, cleaning back up after installing the windshield.

I took out the dash, unbolted the top part from the bottom part, and wrapped the top part with faux leather. It's the same material GM uses in their cars for interior. Of course before I actually sprayed the adhesive (special high heat contact cement) I sanded the fiberglass "flat" with 320 grit and cleaned with Lacquer thinner.

Really exited on how great it looks. My friend says its better material than in his new 911.

32160

Still working out what I'm going to do with the bottom part, experiment tomorrow.

[VD2021]

Not much progress today, spent a little more time on a proper wash, cleaning back up after installing the windshield.

I took out the dash, unbolted the top part from the bottom part, and wrapped the top part with faux leather. It's the same material GM uses in their cars for interior. Of course before I actually sprayed the adhesive (special high heat contact cement) I sanded the fiberglass "flat" with 320 grit and cleaned with Lacquer thinner.

Really exited on how great it looks. My friend says its better material than in his new 911.

32160

Still working out what I'm going to do with the bottom part, experiment tomorrow.

Very Nice.

Where did you source the faux leather? I've some samples from Perfect Fit, but it's not easy making a decision using the small patches.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks for joining in and posting. I paid $125 which included suppling the PGW17JR rubber moulding, primer for adhesive, adhesive and installation. I might have gotten a deal as the installer (professional) is the brother of one of my friends.

Thanks for the info! by the way, great color choice with the paint!

[longislandwrx]

enough with these teaser pics! where's the 3/4 Hawaiian sunshine money shot?

[Aloha818]

Very Nice.

Where did you source the faux leather? I've some samples from Perfect Fit, but it's not easy making a decision using the small patches.

I purchased from fabricdaddy.com

32214

Better pic of top of dash

32215

[Aloha818]

enough with these teaser pics! where's the 3/4 Hawaiian sunshine money shot?

Soon, Soon! As soon as I finish the door panels and dash. Latter in the week.

[Aloha818]

I have the original smooth door panels. I am wrapping them with the faux leather. The leather is really nice looking and pretty flexible. Able to make some inside and outside corners, but the limit is about 1/2" stretch. The recess in the door panels are too much for the leather to stretch and cover.

So first up I used 5- min epoxy to attach a piece of 1" wide by 3/4" deep u-channel to the forward edge on the back. Then after the epoxy set up I ran a bead of silicone around the channel. The panel is pretty light and flimsy. This worked pretty good to add some strength and hold the front of the panel straight.

32247

Then I sanded the interior side (flat) with 180 grit paper and with a special high heat resistant contact cement I wrapped the inside. I turned the leather around onto the backside about 3/4" to make sure it will not curl off the edge. You can see in the pic about the extent of the stretch. FYI, don't buy contact cement at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. you need to find commercial type with a high heat rating. The easily obtained stuff will delaminate the first time the sun hits it.

32248

So since the leather won't cover in one piece and since there is a nice little recess in the door, and since there is not really a good little storage place for sunglasses and stuff, I found an opportunity for a solution!

First I dry fit the panel and closed the door to see how the frame crosses the door panel, laid down some tape and traced a line. Then I took a piece of poster board and made a template of the face of the recess, marked and cut out of 1/8" aluminum plate. Using the lines on the tape I cut out the center of the aluminum to kind of match the angles. The panel will be slightly recessed, just like the area above, so that the door pull handle will work as designed.

Here is the dry fit.

32249

Then I made some 1" x 1" angles out of aluminum for attachment clips and riveted them to the backside of the face panel. I also countersunk the hole for the rivet. Then after I attached all the clips I bondo'd over the rivets.

32250

On my vertical center console area that I made to hold extra guages, I finished it with a faux black carbon fiber wrap. I don't want to use a lot of this but I figured this door faceplate would look good in it also.

After I sanded the bondo I wrapped the faceplate with the CF wrap and glued some of the FFR carpet on the inside of the recess.

32251

I ran out of time today to rivet the faceplate to the door, but here is what it looks like in place.

32252

Spent some time on the dash also, but since not done Ill finish and take pics tomorrow.