Chassis Dolly

[AZPete]

I made this chassis dolly but don't laugh at the extra holes and splices because I made it from the AJW crate wood. This holds the chassis at the engine mount cross bar so I can add the engine and transaxle without it becoming tippy to the back, and it's much more stable than jack stands. The bottom of the frame is 16" above the floor and easy to crawl under. As I did with a roadster, I'll have the engine running and about everything else installed before I have to buy wheels/tires and lower it from the dolly. To remove the dolly, I made the four blocks removable so I can put my jack on some 2x8's to reach the frame, jack it up, remove the blocks, lower it to the base cross piece, jack it up again and remove the dolly from the side. If you will have Stewart deliver your 818, I suggest you don't mount the small 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks but just have the driver set the frame on the four blocks. Roll it into your garage, remove the body panels, position it exactly and then screw on the small blocks to lock it in. You can probably improve upon this design so please post what I should have done.
Pete

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/818Chassisdolly2.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/818Chassisdolly2.jpg.html)


9/16: See Post #19 for slight revision
7/22/14: another slight revision. Others have good suggestions so read through this thread before sawing 7 bolting.

[68GT500MAN]

Nice recycling project, I knew these cars were green!
Doug

[Larry J W]

Nice job. I built a similar dolly for my MK2 that was very useful. Thanks for the dimensions.

Larry

[Turboguy]

You sure that thing is going to hold 1,800 lbs? Safely?

[skullandbones]

Hi Pete,

Keeping to the KISS principle, I see. like the removable adaptors. You said you were going to use that crate wood from AJW so you did. The only thing I would suggest is to add a few "through" bolts with washers on both sides to strengthen the cross pieces unless I missed that in the pic. Good luck with the upcoming build. WEK.

[anejo99]

Pete, don't throw it out when you are done, I may want to borrow/buy it from you for when my kit arrives later next year.
Pat

[AZPete]

Tguy: Hold 1,800 lbs? Each wheel is rated at 450 lbs . . . 6 X 450 =2,700. I can climb all over it or sit on the door sill and it doesn't tip.
Remember the Top Gear episode building a Caterham on jack stands? Jerome: "I was under it just a minute ago!"

WEK: There are lag screws from the bottom and the force on the backbone isn't much because the weight is held by the front and rear cross arms. On my roadster chassis dolly I had trouble getting it down so this time I made removable blocks, which shows that old guys can learn a few things from lots of mistakes.

Pat, sure you can use it. I'll try to keep the blood stains to a minimum.
Pete

[Silvertop]

Don't laugh??? Hell, I'm going to COPY it, using the wood from MY Donor Crates. Thanks for the idea -- AND for the dimensions. Neat idea!

[Silvertop]

Pete:

I can't tell for sure from the photo -- For the lower portion of the central backbone -- Is that a single 2 X 8, or did you bolt together (side by side) a couple of the 3 X 4's from the crates?

The 22" gap you identified clearly relates to the distance between the blocks on the REAR crossmember. What's the gap between the blocks on the FRONT crossmember?

Do you buy all six casters with the built-in locking brake? Or did you use the brakeless version also?

And is there any particular reason that the blocks are 6" high at the rear but only 5" high at the front? Is that just to make it easier to attach the 2" X 2" positioning pieces?

[AZPete]

Silvertop,
1.The backbone has several pieces of the crate wood screwed and glued together. The crates had more 2x8s than used here but I am keeping some for other uses like raising my floor jack to reach the frame on the dolly. Just screw & glue together what you have and then explain to all that it was made on the Range (Oofta, it's Minnesota humor meaning the Iron Range up north).
2. The gap between the front blocks can go as wide as 50" but is not specific because the front part of the cockpit floor is 50" wide and flat so anywhere is fine. The reason for the little 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks is to keep the flat bottom from sliding on the front blocks, plus I used a tacky shelf liner on the front blocks though inner tube rubber would be better.
3. The casters are from my roadster dolly and are 3 swivel/3 non-swivel and 2 of the swiveling casters have lever brakes. The caster brake is nice but certainly not necessary. Wait for when these are on sale at Harbor Freight. I think they go for about $9.99 and maybe slightly more for the swivel or swivel/brake types. Then after you are done with this dolly save them for other projects.
4. The 818 frame has a cross bar at the engine mounts that is 1 inch above the bottom of the cockpit area so the rear blocks of the dolly have to be 1 inch higher than the front blocks to maintain the frame in a level position.
5. Perhaps you can improve upon this. Beer can holders?
Pete

9/7 correction: "da Range" is the correct name for that area of nordern minisoata

[Mitch Wright]

Having lived in Minnesota for 6 years and 4 of those in Duluth I got the "Made on the Range" comment. LOL

[Silvertop]

Having lived in Minnesota for 6 years and 4 of those in Duluth I got the "Made on the Range" comment. LOL

Yes, I got that too. I grew up in Duluth. But we always used the inflection "Da Range". :)

[Silvertop]

Silvertop,
1.The backbone has several pieces of the crate wood screwed and glued together. The crates had more 2x8s than used here but I am keeping some for other uses like raising my floor jack to reach the frame on the dolly. Just screw & glue together what you have and then explain to all that it was made on the Range (Oofta, it's Minnesota humor meaning the Iron Range up north).
2. The gap between the front blocks can go as wide as 50" but is not specific because the front part of the cockpit floor is 50" wide and flat so anywhere is fine. The reason for the little 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks is to keep the flat bottom from sliding on the front blocks, plus I used a tacky shelf liner on the front blocks though inner tube rubber would be better.
3. The casters are from my roadster dolly and are 3 swivel/3 non-swivel and 2 of the swiveling casters have lever brakes. The caster brake is nice but certainly not necessary. Wait for when these are on sale at Harbor Freight. I think they go for about $9.99 and maybe slightly more for the swivel or swivel/brake types. Then after you are done with this dolly save them for other projects.
4. The 818 frame has a cross bar at the engine mounts that is 1 inch above the bottom of the cockpit area so the rear blocks of the dolly have to be 1 inch higher than the front blocks to maintain the frame in a level position.
5. Perhaps you can improve upon this. Beer can holders?
Pete

Thanks, Pete. I'll let you know if I come up with any improvements. And I appreciate the Iron Range humor. As a former Duluth Resident, we loved to haze our neighbors to the north on "Da Range".

[Silvertop]

Pete

Have you worked on your kit enough to determine if you are happy with the overall height of your chassis dolly? I'm considering adding another layer of 2 X 8 to the support blocks in order to add another approximate 2" to the existing 16" clearance underneath the chassis to make it easier to work underneath -- but not if it is likely to make working on the rest of the car uncomfortably high. Just looking for an opinion here. I know there are also easy ways that I can raise the whole assembly up temporarily if I need to work extensively under the car. How's it working out?

[AZPete]

So far I haven't done much to the bottom but I've installed the front firewall, front suspension and now the steering rack. I find it's a nice height for the HB shop stool I have. I think if you raise yours up more it would only be better because you'll easily reach the upper parts. It's not like you'll be working on a sunroof so everything will still be in reach. Maybe today I'll drop the engine/transaxle in. Maybe.
Pete

Edit: Oh, and figure out how you can lower the chassis off the dolly before you go too high. And, make sure you can get your engine hoist legs under the dolly.

[Silvertop]

So far I haven't done much to the bottom but I've installed the front firewall, front suspension and now the steering rack. I find it's a nice height for the HB shop stool I have. I think if you raise yours up more it would only be better because you'll easily reach the upper parts. It's not like you'll be working on a sunroof so everything will still be in reach. Maybe today I'll drop the engine/transaxle in. Maybe.
Pete

Edit: Oh, and figure out how you can lower the chassis off the dolly before you go too high. And, make sure you can get your engine hoist legs under the dolly.

Pete, thanks for the advice. I think I WILL build my support blocks slightly higher. The blocks will still be removable, so it shouldn't make lowering the chassis any more difficult. Not sure what to do about the engine hoist concern, since I don't own one, and for as often as I will need it, I will probably rent as necessary. I guess I'll check out the clearances on the readily available rental cherry pickers. I'm guessing it will be OK, but I'll scope it out.

I will probably build my dolly this week. I want to make sure that I have it available when Stewart Transport shows up with my 818 on the first week in October, and don't want to wait for the last minute. I'll let you know about the beer can holders. :rolleyes:

[nkw8181]

Pretty cool!

[riptide motorsport]

Brilliant!

[AZPete]

REVISION TO CHASSIS DOLLY:
I installed the engine yesterday (hooray!) and found a problem with the dolly. No, no, the dolly did not collapse! It held the weight easily and I even added my 225 lbs and all's well and stable. I had to remove the headers (Perrin Equal-length) to get the engine in place and when I reinstalled the headers the 2" x 2" piece on the right rear block was in the way. I shortened the little piece to solve the problem.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Dollyrevision.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/Dollyrevision.jpg.html)

[Silvertop]

Thanks for the heads-up, Pete. It may not affect my build since I'm NA, and my exhaust system is a different design, but we shall see.

I have spent the last week or so detrashing my garage (it was an unbelievable train wreck in there), so I haven't gotten to constructing my version of your chassis dolly yet. But I'm just about there now -- I even have a usable surface on my workbench!! I expect that I will be dismantling my 818 Donors crates tomorrow, and should have my dolly completed before the end of the week.

[AZPete]

Get working! Your crate stuff will need cleaning, your 818 is coming, and you need to split fire wood, carve a pumpkin, hunt down a wild turkey, insulate the outhouse, and stock the ice fishing hut in the next few weeks. Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.

[Xusia]

Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.

But it never arrives in AZ! LOL (unless you live in Flagstaff!!)

[Silvertop]

Get working! Your crate stuff will need cleaning, your 818 is coming, and you need to split fire wood, carve a pumpkin, hunt down a wild turkey, insulate the outhouse, and stock the ice fishing hut in the next few weeks. Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.

That would be really funny -- except that it's too close to the truth.:p The crate stuff DOES need cleaning, and I need to install my Grimmspeed ported/polished/ coated intake manifold to the engine along with my lightweight flywheel and clutch, depower my steering rack, install my Quaife LSD (if it ever arrives) and a whole mess of other things. I don't actually need to split firewood, but I do need to bring the electrician in next week to wire the garage for the electric heater. But no self respecting Minnesotan would ever have an outhouse that wasn't insulated from the gitgo -- however, I actually do need to insulate the garage! The ice fishing house is a folding portable (yes, I really do have one), so stocking it is a little difficult...............

But don't exaggerate about Minnesota winter -- it seldom actually arrives before October 15! :rolleyes:

[Goldwing]

21531

I'm using a scissor lift for my build, so I made corn hole sets for my friends with the crate wood. The cleverness of the build dolly setup has me wondering if I made the right move. We'll have fun regardless. :)

[Silvertop]

21531

I'm using a scissor lift for my build, so I made corn hole sets for my friends with the crate wood. The cleverness of the build dolly setup has me wondering if I made the right move. We'll have fun regardless. :)

Your scissor lift is going to be a lot handier than the build dolly, at least when working underneath the car. The build dolly, however, will be way cheaper (free almost, except for the wheels, nuts and bolts) -- plus one will have the ability to easily move the whole works around by hand when necessary. Overall, the benefits of one compared to the other is probably a push. But one way or another, yes, we will have fun. :)

[flynntuna]

I've been going back and forth in my mind whether to use a chassis dolly or a lift. They both have their merits. The dolly being the cheapest way, but the lift can be used for years to come . Anyway I'm considering one of these lifts if I decide to go that route.

[wallace18]

I've been going back and forth in my mind whether to use a chassis dolly or a lift. They both have their merits. The dolly being the cheapest way, but the lift can be used for years to come . Anyway I'm considering one of these lifts if I decide to go that route.

If you can afford it do the lift. You will never regret it. I am ashamed I waited till I was 50 to get one.

[Silvertop]

If you can afford it do the lift. You will never regret it. I am ashamed I waited till I was 50 to get one.

It would be nice to have, and that's a fact. But for this build, I'll try the do-it-yourself chassis dolly. If there is a second kit car in my future -- we'll see!

[indiana818]

nice job
i like people that think outside the box and actually try ideas

[cmcintyre]

Well, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery....Here ya go!

I have a Max Jax (a shop warming gift from my wife!) as you can see in the corner of the first photo, but decided to go with your design for ease of access and portability. I can always set up the 'Jax when I need to. 2173021731

I made my blocks a little taller (6 3/4" and 7 3/4") both because it was a stack of 4 pieces of 2x8 and it looks right for the rolling stool I use under the lift.

Pete, is this the 22" dimension you list? The blocks aren't screwed down yet, just want em in the right spot when I drop the frame on it (Oct 4th, now, whoo hoo).

Thanks for the Post!

[AZPete]

Yup, that's the correct space between the rear blocks. You might want to leave all four of the blocks so you can slide them until you get it in your garage and then set them exactly - and lock in the rear of the frame with those little 2x2 pieces. Actually, I planned to put in a screw to keep the blocks from sliding,, but they are fine without that drywall screw you show. Last night I was riveting the driver footbox to the floor and the hole ended up on a front block so now I'll jack it up a bit and slide the block.
BTW, the 818 is much cooler than the pictures and you are on the brink of a really fun project!
Pete

EDIT: I'm wrong. Go down to Post #39!

[Silvertop]

Yup, that's the correct space between the rear blocks. You might want to leave all four of the blocks so you can slide them until you get it in your garage and then set them exactly - and lock in the rear of the frame with those little 2x2 pieces. Actually, I planned to put in a screw to keep the blocks from sliding,, but they are fine without that drywall screw you show. Last night I was riveting the driver footbox to the floor and the hole ended up on a front block so now I'll jack it up a bit and slide the block.
BTW, the 818 is much cooler than the pictures and you are on the brink of a really fun project!
Pete

Hey Pete!

Well, how strange is that??? I just came on line for the express purpose of asking the same question. And there it is!

My dolly is also nearly complete except for placement of the rear height adjustment pads. For some reason my rear pads look a little different than yours in terms of their placement on the 2 X 8 crossmember -- they seem further outboard than yours. For clarity then -- , Is that 22" distance from inside edge of the left set of height pads to the inside edge of the right set? That's where I have mine set right now, and they seem further apart than yours. Could just be camera angle, or something.

Could you double check your measurements? I really need to make sure I get it right. It needs to fit right when Stewart Transport gets here, so we can offload directly from the truck to the dolly without any glitches -- and that should be sometime next week! My kit is scheduled for production completion this Saturday -- and Stewart will likely be picking up early the following week. How long it takes to get to Minnesota will depend on how many other kits are in the truck and where they are going. But if things go well, I should have mine by October 3rd or 4th.

cmcintyre -- Is October 4th your production completion date, or your delivery date? Are you using Stewart, or are you picking up? If you are using Stewart, it is likely that our kits are going to be on the same truck!

[Xusia]

Silvertop, my plan is to leave the pads (or stacks, or whatever you want to call them) unattached to the2x8 cross-members, so that I can position them exactly when Stewart drops off my kit. The component blocks of the stacks will be secured together using the side panels that extend down in front of, and behind, the 2x8 cross-member. Once positioned, I can just put some screws through the side panels into the 2x8 cross-members. This frees me from having to make sure they are positioned precisely beforehand.

[Silvertop]

Silvertop, my plan is to leave the pads (or stacks, or whatever you want to call them) unattached to the2x8 cross-members, so that I can position them exactly when Stewart drops off my kit. The component blocks of the stacks will be secured together using the side panels that extend down in front of, and behind, the 2x8 cross-member. Once positioned, I can just put some screws through the side panels into the 2x8 cross-members. This frees me from having to make sure they are positioned precisely beforehand.

That's exactly what I am doing. The side panels are secured to the load-bearing cross member, and each pad is held in place by one long woodscrew (from my AJW crates) driven into it from the side panel to keep it from shifting at an inopportune time. I will need to roll the thing about 60 yards down a dirt road to my house because I don't think Stewart will want to drive down it (dead end, and hard to back out of). And I don't want to be moving my side panels around or the individual pads while Stewart Transport sits waiting. The process is more time-consuming than one would expect. I know -- I just spent the last couple of days building the dolly -- and most of two hours this afternoon fitting the side panels and the pads. I suspended final finishing of the thing (specifically, the rear pads and side panels) this afternoon because I wanted to make sure those rear pads are in the ballpark of where they need to be from the gitgo. I just don't want any surprises on delivery day. :p

[AZPete]

Silver, Just to be sure, I'll measure mine again when I get home this evening.

[cmcintyre]

Silvertop - I'm 3 hours from FFR, so I get to go pick mine up, 10 AM on the 4th. I have a Nissan Titan and an open 18' Trailex aluminum trailer. I'll post a few pictures, although the transport thing seems to have been pretty well covered....

[Xusia]

Hey Pete,

What exactly rests on the front blocks? It looks like the sheet metal from the cockpit floor, but is there a beam or anything above that to help with the weight? I'd rather the front blocks sit under something solid (if they don't already).

[Silvertop]

Silver, Just to be sure, I'll measure mine again when I get home this evening.

Thanks, Pete. I know that's kind of a pain in the butt. Actually, if it's not too much trouble, the key measuirement on chassis dolly fit is probably the width of the 818 frame at the square tubing crossmember that actually rests on the dolly. Could you provide that as well?

I promise to stop asking stupid questions.................:)

[AZPete]

Oh no! My measurement was wrong! The length of the motor mount bar (1.5" square) is 30 inches - side to side:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/motorbar30in.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/motorbar30in.jpg.html)


The distance between the rear blocks (inside to inside) is 15 inches. The distance from the outside to outside of the blocks is 27 inches.
My dolly has the motor mount bar sitting at the rear of the wooden blocks but it might be better to have it sit in the middle of the wooden blocks, about 3 inches forward. I suggest that you don't screw on the little 2x2 pieces until you get the 818 into your garage. At delivery, you can have the frame lowered onto the four wooden blocks with the motor mount bar on the rear blocks and then push it into your garage and screw on the 2x2 pieces exactly where you want them. Here's a closeup of the left rear showing the little 2x2 pieces.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/leftrear.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/leftrear.jpg.html)

My apologies for the wrong measurement! I'm working alone so there's nobody else to blame . . . except maybe a defective tape measure. I'll try to go back and edit the original post.
Pete

[AZPete]

Xusia, you asked about the front blocks. The footboxes have a strong steel floor welded into the frame. I don't know what gauge steel but it's strong enough to support the weight. In this photo you can see from the reflections in the panel that it is not flexing with the weight supported by the wooden block. That's why the exact position of the front dolly blocks is not critical. You could position the front blocks of the dolly 50 inches apart (outside to outside) and they would be on the outer frame bars and the steel floor.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/footboxbottom.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/footboxbottom.jpg.html)

[Xusia]

Hi Pete (again! LOL),

Thanks! How long is 2x2 #1?

Oh, and where did you get your lateral links? It seems the forward ones (left & right) are polished, and the rearward ones are black, but adjustable.

BTW - I really appreciate this thread. Thank you. :)

[AZPete]

The #1 2x2 is 4 inches. If your engine is turbo then the same piece on the right side should be about 2".

The front lateral links are from my 06 WRX donor - aluminum, polished on a wire wheel and then I replaced the bushings.
The black rear adjustable lateral links are freebies from FFR. They sent these out with a note that said the OE rear lateral links didn't offer enough toe adjustment. I think, but not sure, that FFR may make some change in the frame to account for this and these black ones may be only for the first kits. Save all donor lateral links and mounting bolts until you know for sure.

This is a good example that FFR takes care of us. We all run into problems, both our own and theirs, but FFR will help with instructions, fixes and parts when needed. It may not be as soon as we'd like (NOW!) but once a problem is verified they will act. Thousands of roadster builders have seen this.
Pete

[Xusia]

Thanks, Pete. Saving my existing lateral links is not an option - they were destroyed in the accident. I need new ones, hence my reason for asking.

[Silvertop]

Well, Pete -- I finished mine. For some reason, I can't seem to upload a picture. Looks pretty much like yours. I think it's a good design, so I didn't mess with it too much. I did make a few changes, though. I did buy one standard 2 X 8 from the lumberyard because I just preferred to have a single 6-foot board rather than three short ones attached to the dolly's spine. Not necessary, I'm sure, but it just seemed like it would be stronger to me. The components of the spine (which consists of two of the oddball 3 X 4's used to hold the AJW crate lids together plus the aforementioned 2 X 8) are held together with through-bolts, long lag screws, and supplemented with a lot of Gorilla Glue. It's not gonna come apart.

I did go one layer higher, to gain about 2 more inches of clearance beneath the car. Each set of pads has a piece of non-skid shelf liner stapled to the top. And although my height adjustment pads are still essentially removable, they are each secured by one long woodscrew coming in from the sidepanels which sandwich them -- except for topmost pad, which have screws coming in from both sides. They are still easily removable -- but they are not likely to remove themselves at an inopportune time, which is important to me -- since my build dolly will also be used to transport my 818 from Stewart's Truck to my garage by way of a 60-yard long dirt road.

I used three swivel casters with brake-locks (two of them outboard at the front and one in the center at the rear), one regular swivel caster (center front), and two non-swivel casters (outboard rear).

I did design in a high-technology towing system (two eyebolts and a length of half-inch rope). Haven't figured out the cup-holders yet. :rolleyes:

[Xusia]

I followed Pete's design (Thanks Pete!!), with only some minor differences, and had some feedback to share with those planning to build a similar chassis dolly. Here's a pic of my dolly almost finished:

24578

As you can see, I only used 4 of the Harbor Freight wheels (Pete used 6). Load rating is 450 lbs each, for a total of 1800 pounds. I went with only 4 for 2 primary reasons:

1. I plan to have it on wheels before I reach 1800 total pounds.
2. If 450 lbs each is the advertised rating, they will probably hold more (If for some reason, #1 doesn't happen).

It feels perfectly stable and fine, and I have no worries at this point.

Moving on, I was pretty exacting in my measurements, and consequently the rear 1.5" blocks were just a tad tight and the frame didn't settle in easily. I wasn't sure how much room I had in either direction when building mine, but as you can see from the pic below, there is plenty of room for some adjustment. My suggestion is to increase the spacing between the 1.5" pieces (vs. the measurements Pete provided) by moving the circled pieces 1/8" further from the other piece. As can be seen, there is plenty of room to move that piece in the other direction as well.

24579

That's all for now. I'm happy to answer any questions anyone may have.

Thanks again to Pete for a great design. :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

As you can see, I only used 4 of the Harbor Freight wheels (Pete used 6). Load rating is 450 lbs each,

If 450 lbs each is the advertised rating, they will probably hold more :)

You got this all wrong. All harbor freight ratings have to be divided by 2.41237. It says that on the back of the receipt.
Of course you saved the receipt, because they don't honor warranties without them.
ASK ME HOW I KNOW. :)
Bob

I don't work on cars for a living, so I buy cheapo tools. usually 2-3 times.

[Xusia]

So far, I have saved every receipt for every item I have bought for this project. So I should have it. FINDING it would be a challenge though!

I don't work on cars much either, so like you, I tend to buy cheap tools. They get me by...

[svanlare]

Crates from AJW arrived Friday so this weekend I put together another "AZPete"-style chassis dolly. I didn't make any improvements in the dolly, but with some of the other left over lumber built a place for folks to sit and have a cold one.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/svanlare/DonorDelivery2014-03-09SVLDSC_9052_zps668a7d4e.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/user/svanlare/media/DonorDelivery2014-03-09SVLDSC_9052_zps668a7d4e.jpg.html)

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/svanlare/DonorDelivery2014-03-09SVLDSC_9056_zpsa9e8726f.jpg (http://s66.photobucket.com/user/svanlare/media/DonorDelivery2014-03-09SVLDSC_9056_zpsa9e8726f.jpg.html)

-Steve

[DodgyTim]

Great idea for the seat, but rate of progress is now reduced by 50%:cool:

[AZPete]

That's the BEST upgrade! Now you can have consultants! Don't look at it as slowing progress but extending the fun.

[Burner1]

I make my own dolly and rotisserie. I can build them from steel in about the time it takes to build them from wood:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/roto/roto.htm


26831

[Xusia]

Great idea for the seat, but rate of progress is now reduced by 50%:cool:


That's the BEST upgrade! Now you can have consultants! Don't look at it as slowing progress but extending the fun.

Excellent laugh factor here!

[FFRSpec72]

Thoughts of why not just using jack stands (these could be bordered by some 2x2 to keep them from moving) on the 2x8 so one can raise/lower height as needed ?

[bompus]

I believe the idea is that you can raise/lower height by taking out single pieces inside of the border. If you had jackstands there, you would be limited on how low you could take it down.

[Xusia]

The key reason is to be able to move it around. You could put mover's dollies under jack stands, but a chassis dolly is a bit more stable. Also, many movers dollies are rated for the weight of the 818.

After building my dolly, I've hardly used it. If I were to do this again, I would probably forgo making one.

[wleehendrick]

After building my dolly, I've hardly used it. If I were to do this again, I would probably forgo making one.

My build has been completely on 4 jack stands. In tight conditions I could see the benefit of a dolly to move the frame around, but I've had no problems with building in one spot. I'm almost ready to put wheels on, so at that point, it's moot.

[AZPete]

I agree that if you put wheels on early to make a roller ASAP, then jack stands may be best for you. Jerome had his 818 on the street in less than 2 months! My build is much slower so I like the dolly because I don't want to buy wheels & tires until needed and like the extra height. Wheels & tires are expensive and the tires age so, like I did with my roadster, I'll get the everything done and the engine running before I add tires and go-kart. A good idea I saw here was using 4 HB furniture dollies for the wheels. Steve, are you adding seat belts to the consultant's seats? Think of the liability. :-)

[svanlare]

I'm sure the seats will slow down the build, I've just been getting the garage set up and I've had plenty of visitors already. Beer with the neighbors is a good thing though and I definitely look at that part as "extending the fun". I also envision it will get plenty of use when reaching those times where you just need to sit and stare at the project figuring out what to do next.

At to why the chassis dolly... I am building in a tight space, and moving to the driveway on nice days or shuffling the garage around is a very nice option. We'll see if that pans out during the build, but since the wood was free seemed like a no brainer to start that way.

[svanlare]

As for jack stands on the on the dolly itself, just didn't think about it.

[Brando]

I really enjoy being able to spin my 818 around at will. I build in a 2 car garage and wifey takes one of those spots. Having the flexibility to spin the car to the middle of the garage in a few seconds has been huge for me. I just sat the car on the wheels for the first time, it took a mere 30 minutes to get it off the dolly.

[FFRSpec72]

I really enjoy being able to spin my 818 around at will. I build in a 2 car garage and wifey takes one of those spots. Having the flexibility to spin the car to the middle of the garage in a few seconds has been huge for me. I just sat the car on the wheels for the first time, it took a mere 30 minutes to get it off the dolly.

yea my wife tells me to sit on my Challenge car and spin, now she will be able to do this with the 818

[FFRSpec72]

The key reason is to be able to move it around. You could put mover's dollies under jack stands, but a chassis dolly is a bit more stable. Also, many movers dollies are rated for the weight of the 818.

I was going to build the I frame as described in this thread and just use jack stands instead of the blocks

[DruOdil]

I used wheel dollies with plywood to make it level. Then I put on a jack stand. It worked on my donor and is completely adjustable. I did use a tie down to hold it in place. Harbor freight special.

[Xusia]

I agree that if you put wheels on early to make a roller ASAP, then jack stands may be best for you.

That was pretty much what happened. This car is so easy to get to a roller, it's ridiculous. I did a few things out of order (i.e. skipped the front firewall), and got to a roller in pretty much a weekend. If you have all the suspension parts ready to go, it's a bolt together affair...

[mrprgrmr]

moving to the driveway on nice days
This sounds like the absolute best reason for building a dolly.

[metros]

Hey Pete,
I'm picking up my kit this weekend and double checking all my plans to make sure transport and unloading goes smoothly. I saw you had the rear posts 15" apart to catch the rear frame, but the frame extends beyond that 15". Do you have a rough estimate of how far past 15" the frame pick up points extend in the rear? My 2 rear posts are 18" apart and I want to make sure it's going to have plenty of frame to support while still being steady.

Thanks

[AZPete]

Metros, does this photo help?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/rearspacing.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/rearspacing.jpg.html)

To get your 818 into the garage it does not have to be precisely in place on the dolly. On the front the floor is wide and flat so you can place support blocks about anywhere and then line up the rear blocks to the frame. Once you have time you can shift it to exactly where you like and anchor it with the little wooden 2x2 blocks. Tip the driver if he deserves it ($50 is common), have beer or champagne ready to toast your new baby. You are also required to sit in it while making "vroom-vroom" sounds. Good luck trying to sleep before Santa arrives!

Edit: I just noticed you are picking up your kit so delete the tip and Santa. I picture you sitting in the 818 on an open trailer as someone else drives . . . vroom, vroom. Bring goggles. :-)

2nd edit: scratch the goggles. FFR mounts the windshield on the kit.

[svanlare]

metros and pete

Car is supposed to show up Friday, beer is in the fridge and I am indeed pacing like a kid getting ready for Christmas... Hoping to send the obligatory "vroom-vroom" photo next week when I start my build post.

:-)

[metros]

Thanks Pete! That a to d measurement clears it up. I should have plenty of wiggle room with my current build trolley.

I have a weird feeling that Monday morning I'll be under the weather and need to stay home from work. Ffr should produce a tshirt "giving reasons to play hooky since 19xx".

[FFRSpec72]

So still confused, and I'm slow so please help me out here, so the length is 72" and width of each end is 48" wide. The front blocks will sit under the steel floor panel and thus can be almost any stable distance apart, like 40" and should be about 5" tall. The rear I'm not quite sure about, so what is the approx. placement for the rear block for turbo?

[AZPete]

Tony, see post #19 for a close-up of the rear with my 2.5 turbo. The best thing to do is leave the little 2x2 blocks off at first - see svanlare's photo in post #48 - and then once your kit is in your garage and you've got time, screw on the 2x2 blocks to hold the rear of the frame from sliding around (post #19). Once the rear is secured from sliding the front will stay wherever it is. The 2 rear blocks are 1 inch higher than the front to insure the frame is level. Does that help?

[FFRSpec72]

That helps, thanks, I got some 8" 1000lb per wheel casters for $12 each so that should be enough to hold this thing

26907

[AZPete]

I'm glad to help. Better wheels than mine so 4 will be plenty. Have fun!

[DodgyTim]

Here is my dolly made from recycled steel and cut up cheapie car stands
26919
26920
Just as well I didn't design the 818, it would have become the 1818:cool:

[FFRSpec72]

Here is my dolly made from recycled steel and cut up cheapie car stands

I like it, as it serves as extra frame parts as needed.

[FFRSpec72]

I finished my dolly tonight

Inventory of parts used:

(2) 2x8x8
(1) 2x6x8
(1) 2x2x4
(4) Swivel Plate Caster with brakes and with 8" x 2" Polyurethane Wheel 1000# each (ebay)
(16) 3/8 inch by 2" stove bolts (for caster)
(16) 3/8 washers
(16) 3/8 nuts
(8) 3/8 by 3.5" bolts
(8) 3/8 washers
(8) 3/8 nuts
(1) Sheet of 1/4" thick rubber gasket material (non slip)

Cost was around $80, ($55 in the wheels) but boy they are nice and move effortlessly and quietly. I made mine 82" long and 48" wide, as I wanted to make sure that the front support was on the front lower frame and not just on the floor pan.

[sponaugle]

Quick question that I didn't seem to spot the answer to:

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/ChassisDim.png

What is the yellow/red dimension?

[Jaime]

There's a lot of room for error there. The pads go under the plate under the foot box. I made mine with the red dimension 48 inches, but shorter would be fine.

[sponaugle]

There's a lot of room for error there. The pads go under the plate under the foot box. I made mine with the red dimension 48 inches, but shorter would be fine.

Ah yes.. I should have noticed that in the pic! Thanks!!

Jeff

[ruckus racing]

Gunna have to do this

[satmarshall]

I just finished putting my new kit on the dolly (I built per the dimensions here) and was wondering if anyone who is further ahead on their build is noticing any issues with the position of the front support blocks. They are directly under the floor panels rather than under a framing member. Does that become a problem after more weight is added? The floor panels don't look like they'd support much weight.

[cmcintyre]

I ended up putting an additional board across the two supports that was wide enough to distribute the load to the frame members. In addition, if you will be putting your engine in using a standard wheeled hoist, measure the width of the legs of that hoist and install the rear wheels so as to be either inside or outside of that dimension. Had to put my frame up on stands to get the engine in.

[AZPete]

When I mounted the rear tires one rubbed against the rear cross member of the dolly. I suggest you make the rear a couple of inches narrower. It will still be stable and the blocks on the rear are much narrower, so there's room for a narrower rear.

Yippee! My 818 is now a go-kart terrorizing the neighborhood!! The dolly worked well so now I'll make something else with the wood & wheels.
Pete

[svanlare]

Congrats on reaching the go-cart stage!

[harrymorrow1]

Here is my dolly made from recycled steel and cut up cheapie car stands
26919
26920
Just as well I didn't design the 818, it would have become the 1818:cool:

Hey Tim,

I really like this dolly very surprised no one else seems to have mentioned it, I am a carpenter by trade but the steel version could be adapted so it could fit multiple projects in the future or sell it on for someone else to use, or make it so it folds flat, limited space in the garage so nice to see it tucked away against the wall, do you have any dimensions.

Cheers

Harry

[DodgyTim]

Hi Harry
Thanks for the compliment. I'm away in Cambodia for another week, I can post some better pictures and some dimensions when I get back.
Cheers
Tim

[D Clary]

34461I made my mount pads adjustable so I can move them as needed. As the car gets heavier it also got a lot harder to move. I think the HF casters may not last the build.

[harrymorrow1]

34461I made my mount pads adjustable so I can move them as needed. As the car gets heavier it also got a lot harder to move. I think the HF casters may not last the build.

Interesting most people seem to be using the extra wheel and I think the 8" wheel version or 400+lb load per wheel, thinking I want something like yours and Tim from Australia's design's, I am thinking of possibly doing a rough sketch in the next few weeks, I was thinking a single backbone but then a longer collar than Tim's to be able to adjust the length for different projects in the future, plus I was thinking of having a good level base so that I can use a laser level for fitting the body panels, I saw one previous GTM owner use this method on Youtube.

Thanks for the input.

Harry

[DodgyTim]

Hi Harry
Here’s the layout for my trolley. Some of the dimensions and sizes are a bit odd, because I used up as much leftover steel as I could. Overall width of the black frame is 1500mm and the length is 2300mm. The second dolly I made was the same width, but shorter because I ran out of steel
34698
The black “T” frame and the cross pieces on the far end are all 90mm x 90mm square hollow section
The silver castor/stand sliders are all 100mm x 100mm square hollow section. There is about 4mm clearance so all parts slide fairly easily.
I drilled 5 holes in each of the silver sections at 40mm centers, then lots of holes in the black main frame at 50mm centers. This allows each sliding section to be moved 10mm before a set of holes align, so basically any part can be positioned to within 10mm.
All the sliding sections can be reversed by knocking off the end caps. I did this to support my open wheeler at the front, the two stands can be as close as about 200mm apart.
The cheapie car stands (Supercheap brand) were $19 for two, and saved a heap of fabrication time. I tried to line them up directly above the castors so there aren’t any “tipping over“ forces.
One mod I have made from the above picture is to replaced the two fixed (non swiveling) castors at the near end with swiveling castors. The castors came in a four pack, two fixed + two swiveling. Cheap, but a pain in the …… Four swiveling castors makes it much more flexible to reposition. Castors were bolted to a drilled/tapped 10mm thick plate, in turn welded to the sliders
34699
Length was 300mm, 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the outside end. The holes aren’t exactly on centerline on the silver 100mm x 100mm SHS section because of the clearance between the 100mm SHS and the 90mm SHS.
34700
The center slider length was 380mm with 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the end.

Cheers
Tim

[harrymorrow1]

Hi Harry
Here’s the layout for my trolley. Some of the dimensions and sizes are a bit odd, because I used up as much leftover steel as I could. Overall width of the black frame is 1500mm and the length is 2300mm. The second dolly I made was the same width, but shorter because I ran out of steel
34698
The black “T” frame and the cross pieces on the far end are all 90mm x 90mm square hollow section
The silver castor/stand sliders are all 100mm x 100mm square hollow section. There is about 4mm clearance so all parts slide fairly easily.
I drilled 5 holes in each of the silver sections at 40mm centers, then lots of holes in the black main frame at 50mm centers. This allows each sliding section to be moved 10mm before a set of holes align, so basically any part can be positioned to within 10mm.
All the sliding sections can be reversed by knocking off the end caps. I did this to support my open wheeler at the front, the two stands can be as close as about 200mm apart.
The cheapie car stands (Supercheap brand) were $19 for two, and saved a heap of fabrication time. I tried to line them up directly above the castors so there aren’t any “tipping over“ forces.
One mod I have made from the above picture is to replaced the two fixed (non swiveling) castors at the near end with swiveling castors. The castors came in a four pack, two fixed + two swiveling. Cheap, but a pain in the …… Four swiveling castors makes it much more flexible to reposition. Castors were bolted to a drilled/tapped 10mm thick plate, in turn welded to the sliders
34699
Length was 300mm, 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the outside end. The holes aren’t exactly on centerline on the silver 100mm x 100mm SHS section because of the clearance between the 100mm SHS and the 90mm SHS.
34700
The center slider length was 380mm with 5 holes at 40mm centers starting 50mm from the end.

Cheers
Tim

Hey Tim Thanks for the reply, this is my kinda of measuring metric, although I was around in the UK under the imperial system, my Toyota van is metric here in the US, but still most things are still in old imperial, I am going to have a look around to see what steel is available and if it is ok with you use a similar system to your dolly as I would need it to come apart after using it, also I would want to make it more universal so the castors would also slide along to adjust the width and the center section could also be adjustable, also I was thinking of making the uprights adjustable so I could level the frame up if so, will try to find some materials first but I thank you for sharing your information with us, deffinatly be putting the swivel casters on as I will have limited space, so being able to move something around easy will be a great help.

Am I right in saying that Australia drives on the left same as the UK, as I may have to move back to the UK earlier than expected so would be good to note someone building the kit with the steering on the right hand side or is not a FFR option.

On a small side note as not sure if you are a footy fan but it was a great grand final, when I lived in the UK I played the sport from 8 years old until around 33, I get all the Aussie and British games over here.

Thanks again for the detailed notes.

Harry

[Chef818]

Sorry to bother you, but I have been going over the thread for a while. I did not have a donor pallet, but bought a salvage car. I was able to get some free pallets at work and have built me dolly from those. The one question I have is
On post #67 you give them measurements of the blocks you support the frame with and if my calculations are correct then it is 5.75", but I can't find the other measurement , is it 8"?

[AZPete]

Chef, no bother at all. I'm always glad to see a new post but I'm not sure what you are asking. It's been a long time since I have thought about this dolly since I'm now thinking about the best way to install the power windows. After checking Post #67, the front blocks were 5" and the rears were 6"? Perhaps someone who has more recent experience with this dolly can reply, I hope.
Soon you've start putting things together, rather than taking them apart. Enjoy the journey!

[FFRSpec72]

Chef, no bother at all. I'm always glad to see a new post but I'm not sure what you are asking. It's been a long time since I have thought about this dolly since I'm now thinking about the best way to install the power windows. After checking Post #67, the front blocks were 5" and the rears were 6"? Perhaps someone who has more recent experience with this dolly can reply, I hope.
Soon you've start putting things together, rather than taking them apart. Enjoy the journey!

My experience with the dolly is the center beam is the pits as it right at the cockpit tunnel and doing work under the car is a real pain. The front and rear mounts did not get in my way except when trying to do the under the car aluminum (sealing up the undercarriage).

[Chef818]

Thanks for the quick responses, what I am looking for the dimensions of the 5" high and 6" high blocks that the car sits on. From what I have read it seems they are 5" high in front and 6" high in back with them being 5.75" wide but how long are they?

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks for the quick responses, what I am looking for the dimensions of the 5" high and 6" high blocks that the car sits on. From what I have read it seems they are 5" high in front and 6" high in back with them being 5.75" wide but how long are they?

I made mine as long as the width of the cross beam, the height will very on how much room you need under the car, too high and it is hard to get in/out of car when you are doing the interior. Once you sit the car on the dolly you may have to make additional changes in height and location of the front/rear cross beam.

[UnhipPopano]

Could the blocks be made so that they will stack? Lower one would be high enough to get the jack under, and upper one high enough to get under the car?

[Chef818]

What was the width of you cross beam?