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michael everson
08-28-2013, 07:07 PM
I know its a little early to start my build thread since I don't have a kit yet. Have no fear, I have pictures to show. My kit will be picked up by me on Friday. My Boss and I are going down in the morning to bring it home.
My build will not progress as fast as some on here. I still have 4 cars in my shop to finish first. I plan to pick away at this 1 hour a night.
Here are some pictures of my donor, some parts that I picked up second hand and some stuff from other sources.

Donor lower controls arms from Ebay. These will look nice all cleaned up and polished. No one will ever see them again. What a shame.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05662_zps43e5de9e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05662_zps43e5de9e.jpg.html)

Donor pedal box. This will be disassembled and powdercoated black.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05658_zpsd9b0a175.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05658_zpsd9b0a175.jpg.html)

STI brakes from the Sube forum. These things are huge. 12 inch in the back and 13 in the front. The rotors will get cleaned up and powdercoated black. Just the center of course.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05657_zps88f11d5a.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05657_zps88f11d5a.jpg.html)

Front and rear calipers.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05656_zpseb5a5df4.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05656_zpseb5a5df4.jpg.html)

Rear rotors all cleaned up.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05647_zps3b40375f.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05647_zps3b40375f.jpg.html)

I bought these 4 links on Ebay. I cleaned and polished one of them. It looks real nice. I plan to do the others soon.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05645_zpsa1bd6121.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05645_zpsa1bd6121.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05648_zps8d0e278b.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05648_zps8d0e278b.jpg.html)

michael everson
08-28-2013, 07:11 PM
I bought these rear lower control arms on Ebay. They seem to be decent quality. I don't think they are powder coated though. If they are not, I will strip them and powdercoat them black.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05646_zps0b67a6f8.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05646_zps0b67a6f8.jpg.html)

here is my donor. I forget how many miles are on it. Somewhere around 130,000. I will be using the engine, transmission, some suspension hardware and maybe some of the wiring. Lots of other little stuff as well.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05655_zpsc023e968.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05655_zpsc023e968.jpg.html)

I am planning on aftermarket seats, FFR steering wheel and I already bought the new Boyd fuel tank for it. Also I have spindles from a 2004 WRX. My plan is to buy a wiring harness from Wayne Presley once I get the harness out and look it over. Not really wanting to tackle the donor harness at this time.

ehansen007
08-28-2013, 08:11 PM
Nice Mike! Can't wait to see the build!

Frank818
08-29-2013, 05:25 PM
What year those STI brakes? 5x114?

michael everson
08-29-2013, 05:29 PM
Frank. I was told they are from a 2004, but not sure. They bolt right up to my 2004 STI spindles which are 5x100
Mike

Frank818
08-29-2013, 05:34 PM
Ha that's the trick. :) Not sure how much they are sold for, but maybe it's a very good bargain over say the FFR Willwood upgrade. Of course it depends what one wants.

fateo66
08-29-2013, 06:00 PM
Fyi the brembos are from an 08+ sti. The fronts have obviously been redrilled though. Do you uave the rear aeapters? I think the 08+ rears have a different bolt pattern then the 04-07 so you might have a hard time finding the adapter.

Also those control arms are from a late 90's jdm car. So they are the narrower gc/ wagon width and you will also have to run spacers in the front to bolt them in.

fateo66
08-29-2013, 06:04 PM
Also if you see my kit down the ( Zach F) take a pic for me.

michael everson
08-29-2013, 07:23 PM
Zach. The brakes bolted right up to the spindles that I have. Not sure why, but it all worked. I did have to redrill the rotors for the smaller 5x100 pattern. I was told the spindles are from an 04 STI which is the only STI to have that bolt pattern. How can you tell that the arms are not WRX? Where would I need spacers? To move the wheels out?
Thanks Mike

metalmaker12
08-29-2013, 09:00 PM
Looks great, if you have any subaru related questions etc let me know

fateo66
08-29-2013, 10:54 PM
So do you have the rears bolted up too if so which hubs are you running? 06-07? or the 04's from your donor? I know the 08+ rear brembos have a different bolt spacing but I don't know how it changed

FYI STI front calipers will fully bolt up to any 91+ legacy or impreza hub.

There are several ways to tell if the arms are from a late 90's JDM STI. First off, the shape of the arm at the rear where the transverse link bolts on has a slightly different shape then the GD aluminum arms. I have two sets of GD arms for sale in the for sale section, you can go look at the pictures and see what I'm talking about. next up is the thickness of the aluminum next to the transverse link. On yours you can see that the aluminum is slightly wider than the black steel base. On a GD arm it is thinner than that bar. lastly and most obviously is the subaru cast into the front section of the arm. GD arms do not have this.

As for the width you'll just have to bolt the arms in the wagon bolt holes on your chassis. And here is a picture to show what I was talking about with the spacers that will be needed for the front bushing.

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9199/20120613013614.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/frontbushcomparo.jpg

Lastly, is one of the steel bars on your arms black and the other silver? All JDM GC arms that I have seen are silver and all GD ones are black. I only ask because I was curious if they have the same geometry

michael everson
08-30-2013, 04:22 AM
Youre right about the rear brakes. They do not bolt up. It appears I have enough room to drill another set of holes though. I will try drilling and mounting them this morning. Thanks for the heads up on the arms. I am all new to this Subaru stuff. Just glad they will still work for me.
Mike

fateo66
08-30-2013, 07:06 AM
If you want you can measure the distance from hole to hole and I can look threw my vast archive of info to see if I can figure anything out about an adapter.

Frank818
08-30-2013, 07:39 AM
Just so I understand, the front 2004 STI 13" do bolt up fine but the rear 2004 STI 12" don't?

michael everson
08-30-2013, 08:03 AM
yes

metalmaker12
08-30-2013, 08:07 AM
Youre right about the rear brakes. They do not bolt up. It appears I have enough room to drill another set of holes though. I will try drilling and mounting them this morning. Thanks for the heads up on the arms. I am all new to this Subaru stuff. Just glad they will still work for me.
Mike

Mike there may be mounts you can get for that configuration, but you can drill them to. I had to get mounts for my 02 spindles-2pot rears, and I think there may be a conversion for your setup. I have to look around

michael everson
08-31-2013, 07:23 PM
Picked up my kit Friday morning. There were about 3 others ready to go. All went well. There is a short list of backordered items, but nothing that will hold me up. I wont have much time to work on it anyway. Here are some pictures of the pick up.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05663_zps72818741.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05663_zps72818741.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05665_zps66e0a501.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05665_zps66e0a501.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05667_zps36a29528.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05667_zps36a29528.jpg.html)

Here is the kit finally in my garage

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05668_zps5231aa1b.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05668_zps5231aa1b.jpg.html)

Chassis stripped of its body. The body requires a lot of room to store all the panels safely. They too up most of my attic. I suppose they could just be left outside with the white surface up.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05677_zps420d52e1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05677_zps420d52e1.jpg.html)

My first load of powder coated parts. I went through all of the boxes to find anything that was uncoated steel. This is most of it. I will have another load going in tomorrow.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05685_zps409ac55a.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05685_zps409ac55a.jpg.html)

Anyone know what these 3 dog tags are? I am mildly concerned that there is 3 and not 4. I haven't looked them up to see what they do yet.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05688_zps03078dda.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05688_zps03078dda.jpg.html)

Mechie3
08-31-2013, 07:42 PM
Look like the new offset washers to mount the shifter. I think there should be four. I went to mount my shifter and found the spacing was off so ffr made those washers to replace the stock rubber bushings.

metalmaker12
08-31-2013, 07:44 PM
Shifter washers, you need 4, I have a couple sets

Bob_n_Cincy
08-31-2013, 07:45 PM
Hi Michael,
congrats on your delivery.
My kit did not have the dog tags.
I heard something about a change to adjust toe angle of rear wheels. I wonder if it's not part of that change.

edit : see shifter washers above
Bob

michael everson
09-04-2013, 08:32 PM
I will be doing a lot of jumping around on this build as time permits. One big set back is that the entire hardware package is on back order. So I really cannot bolt anything to the chassis.
I have all of the aluminum in the front drilled and clecoed. I have not riveted it yet because I may powder coat it black.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05694_zpse47f4417.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05694_zpse47f4417.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05695_zpsdaab9ff5.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05695_zpsdaab9ff5.jpg.html)

Here are my shocks all assembled.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05699_zpsece16e50.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05699_zpsece16e50.jpg.html)

I took apart the donor pedal box and sand blasted the whole thing. I then powder coated it all black. Looks a lot better than the slightly rusted unit.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05701_zps4f44fff1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05701_zps4f44fff1.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05702_zpsf205e6bd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05702_zpsf205e6bd.jpg.html)

Bob_n_Cincy
09-04-2013, 10:00 PM
Michael
Test fit your lower control arms before you final install the front firewall.
If there is an issue. It will be in the way of grinding the bracket.
Bob

RM1SepEx
09-04-2013, 10:05 PM
Grind the left LCA rear bushing's shaft flush with the nut to clear the aluminum of the firewall. The right one has no problems, that sheet of the firewall is on the other side of the 1 inch tube.

longislandwrx
09-05-2013, 06:05 AM
One big set back is that the entire hardware package is on back order.


Ouch. Hope they have them before I pick my kit up.

Pedal box looks great.

michael everson
09-08-2013, 06:28 PM
Well I spent a whole day taking most of my donor apart. This car was so rusty that most of the suspension couldn't even come off. The carcass is gone. I spent some time cleaning and depowering the stock rack. I wish I had taken before photos. This thing was so covered in rust and grime that I wasn't sure I could use it. I took it completely apart and sand blasted all the rusty and dirty parts. I then powdercoated everything. You can see through the powder coating how rough the surface is from the rust. I also removed the seal on the piston. There really is no reason to remove the piston itself. It does nothing once the seal is gone. I couldn't figure out what people were talking about with steering slop once the power assist is removed. Maybe I did something wrong, but mine has no slop. At least not that I can feel with it off the car.
I filled all the open ports with silicone.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05703_zps0c50b620.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05703_zps0c50b620.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05704_zpsc84d3cea.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05704_zpsc84d3cea.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05705_zpsa4c09df7.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05705_zpsa4c09df7.jpg.html)

Mechie3
09-08-2013, 08:25 PM
You won't feel the slop by hand unless you put a pair of vice grips on it.

RM1SepEx
09-08-2013, 10:00 PM
there has to be movement/slop in a PS rack, the relative motion allows fluid ports to open, the pressurized fluid "assists" the rack movement. The WRX rack uses a torsion bar to make it feel less obvious than say a Miata rack that just "flops" 3-4 degrees to open the ports

metalmaker12
09-09-2013, 03:10 AM
Looking good mike, I am going up yo FFR Thursday of your around.

michael everson
09-09-2013, 04:23 AM
Sorry. at work all day. What time were you planning on going up?
Mike

longislandwrx
09-09-2013, 06:09 AM
maybe the splines on your rack rusted together. BONUS.

508wrx
09-09-2013, 09:47 AM
Mike, I might have to bring a bunch of stuff by to sand blast & powder coat. I'm kinda jealous how good some of your stuff looks compared to mine. I would be happy to compensate you for allowing me to use it.

Erik W. Treves
09-09-2013, 10:27 AM
Mike, I drove mine up and down the street a couple weeks ago, and did not notice any slop at all..or nothing stuck out at me, like, "wow that steering stinks", felt much like my cobra....

michael everson
09-09-2013, 10:41 AM
Erik. Are you wishing for Power steering?
Mike

Erik W. Treves
09-09-2013, 10:45 AM
not at all! there isn't any weight on the front of this thing and I even have really wide front tires.... my biggest issue..and people are starting to see this... the tires are contacting the frame or aluminum prior to full lock...so turning radius is not fantastic...I am going to clearance the aluminum at some point.

wallace18
09-09-2013, 11:07 AM
not at all! there isn't any weight on the front of this thing and I even have really wide front tires.... my biggest issue..and people are starting to see this... the tires are contacting the frame or aluminum prior to full lock...so turning radius is not fantastic...I am going to clearance the aluminum at some point.
It is good to know I am not the only one having this issue. I would like a fix though.

wleehendrick
09-09-2013, 12:42 PM
...so turning radius is not fantastic...


It is good to know I am not the only one having this issue. I would like a fix though.

There's always another way to tighten the turning radius: ;)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DoP_FNcgYM

ehansen007
09-09-2013, 12:59 PM
I like that way better!

Erik W. Treves
09-09-2013, 07:39 PM
It is good to know I am not the only one having this issue. I would like a fix though.

Let me first apologize to Mike, not trying to hijack your thread.....one and done here....

you forget...I have the same problem but I was quite clear...I did not follow the recommended FFR tire size selection...I will clearance the aluminum and make it work...I am not lacking much....again...keep the alarms off...follow Jim's recommendations and you will be fine...I have said up front I am not stock so to group me with the norm or a guy that "follows directions" is an incorrect assumption..I like exploring the edge..sorry for being so blunt...

michael everson
09-10-2013, 07:45 PM
Found a little time tonight to do some more work. I decided to powder coat all the aluminum that is visible up front. I also powder coated all the rivets so that they blend right in. What do you think?

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05712_zps27846881.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05712_zps27846881.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05713_zps7278dbc9.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05713_zps7278dbc9.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05714_zpsd5c91cb5.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05714_zpsd5c91cb5.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05715_zps7f3d2f2d.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05715_zps7f3d2f2d.jpg.html)

I temporarily mounted the pedal box and master cylinder. I noticed that once you drill the holes through the pedal box for the master cylinder, there is no room for the nuts. I decided instead to just tap the holes 3/8-16 and bolt it to the front of the frame. Not sure if this is an issue on all of these or just mine. Here is a close-up of the offending area.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05716_zps60304cc8.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05716_zps60304cc8.jpg.html)

metalmaker12
09-10-2013, 08:19 PM
Yea I had to use 1/4 inch nuts that just fit, I was thinking of taping it also, everyone has had the same issue, I am going to try to shoot up your way if I can after FFR

I also have a tire fitment issue, bit I am going with different rims and tires altogether soon, also getting some other goodies

michael everson
09-10-2013, 08:31 PM
Glad it's not just me. I have been doing a lot of jumping around on this build. Its mostly due to the fact that I don't have the hardware pack yet. I have a bunch of stuff in stock so that helps. Also I need to buy almost all of my donor bolts because everything was so rusty.
Mike

Mechie3
09-10-2013, 09:46 PM
Ditto on the pedal box. Some people ground down the side of a hex head to fit others (me at least) cut out a hole to allow the nut and bolt to fit.

Bob_n_Cincy
09-10-2013, 10:14 PM
Some used smaller bolts.
I cut out a hole for the head of a class 8 5/16 x 1.5 socket head to fit in. Then put lock nuts on master cylinder side.
I don't think a 1/4-20 is strong enough to hold the master cylinder.
Brake systems can go to 1500-2000 psi during panic stop.
That master cylinder has about a 1-1/16" bore so approx. 1000 lbs. of tension on each bolt.
21409
just my opinion
Bob

Wayne Presley
09-11-2013, 06:42 AM
Some used smaller bolts.
I cut out a hole for the head of a class 8 5/16 x 1.5 socket head to fit in. Then put lock nuts on master cylinder side.
I don't think a 1/4-20 is strong enough to hold the master cylinder.
Brake systems can go to 1500-2000 psi during panic stop.
That master cylinder has about a 1-1/16" bore so approx. 1000 lbs. of tension on each bolt.
21409
just my opinion
Bob

Bob, FFR uses a 5/16" bolt and not a 1/4-20. The 5/16 bolt is plenty strong to hold the master.

metalmaker12
09-11-2013, 08:05 AM
Its plenty strong with even the 1/4 20 i used, they can hold much more than one might think, but i am going to tap my pedal set, or tack in nuts and use 5/16 bolts

RM1SepEx
09-11-2013, 09:41 AM
the force held in tension by the two MC bolts has to be able to offset the force that can be supported by the push rod in compression. High grade 1/4 will have no problem... the 5/16 -18 bolts from Factory Five are grade five bolts, grade eight 1/4 -20 would be as strong

Bob_n_Cincy
09-11-2013, 11:12 AM
Hi Wayne, Chris, Dan
Remind me again not to over engineer something as unimportant as brakes.

The manual calls out 5/16x1" button head for the MC. They are not listed on my BOM. I don't think they would have been long enough anyway as you see in my picture above only 3 threads show on my 1.5" bolts. I don't have my 2 layers of aluminum in yet.

Is there a reason not to use metric brake line instead of all the adaptors. The only standard thread is the proportional valve?
Bob

RM1SepEx
09-11-2013, 12:16 PM
Feel free to use 5/16 bolts... just saying the ones from F5 are only grade 5 and yes they are indeed too short. We all used different methods to resolve the issue to our own standards. I think the best solution would be grade 8, 5/16 bolts with heads ground like Wayne did. I used top notch 1/4 -20 socket head caps because I had them here, in stock... I buy them by the 1000's for my small home business... www.morencyrest.com

I think F5 used standard lines with metric adapters to limit the SKUs in their inventory system. confusion on metric vs std. threads creates havoc! We have been providing feedback to get the BOM to match what is needed to complete the brake and clutch system. Again we all ended up doing something different to get to completion. I've provided Tony Z with details to get it done as it is shown in the current manual. Right now the BOM and manual are not in sync.

Welcome to the world of an early kit builder.... :-)

michael everson
09-12-2013, 04:17 AM
Got both the clutch master and the brake master cleaned up and mounted. They clean up pretty good.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05718_zps414905e0.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05718_zps414905e0.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05717_zpsa83b9cda.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05717_zpsa83b9cda.jpg.html)

Steering column is in.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05719_zpsaf1c8975.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05719_zpsaf1c8975.jpg.html)

I have started to do some fitting of the interior aluminum as well.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05720_zps5b1f42bf.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05720_zps5b1f42bf.jpg.html)

RM1SepEx
09-12-2013, 02:17 PM
My black rivets came from McMaster Carr yours look much better, mine scratched easily. Think you could use more clecos! :-)

michael everson
09-12-2013, 03:06 PM
I looked on MC Master. I couldnt find them. Maybe they donmt carry them anymore? I must have about 400 Clecos now. I can and have easily clecoed a whole car.

Mechie3
09-12-2013, 03:10 PM
I wish I had enough cleco's to do that. Much better, IMO, than the 25 I leapfrogged around. I could only do so much before needing to pull things off or make them permanent.

RM1SepEx
09-12-2013, 04:50 PM
I looked on MC Master. I couldnt find them. Maybe they donmt carry them anymore? I must have about 400 Clecos now. I can and have easily clecoed a whole car.

I just bought them last month... http://www.mcmaster.com/#pop-rivets/=ohaca6 pick one of several colors

I use 50 clecos and I have 4 that are jaw type clamps too... I did the entire front firewall w/no problem and quite a few are still holding stuff together on my reverse trike body project. I should get some in 3/16

Mike, your project is looking good!

michael everson
09-12-2013, 05:59 PM
Learned something else new today. If you use 4 of the aluminum lateral links, one of them will have to be drilled out to fit the long bolt that holds the upright. each one had a small diameter hole and a large diameter hole end. The toe adjust needs a big hole and so does the lateral bolt. So one needs to get drilled out to about .54 diameter. Just a heads up.

metalmaker12
09-12-2013, 06:03 PM
I used new bushings one smaller and one larger, but factory five is supplying the rears

RM1SepEx
09-12-2013, 06:09 PM
I used new bushings one smaller and one larger, but factory five is supplying the rears

Chris, depends on your frame serial # apparently our early frames (I'm #17 you're #13 or #14?) don't allow for enough toe adj with the eccentric bolt so they sent us those adj rears (I already had adj front and rear) Mike's might not need those...

michael everson
09-12-2013, 08:07 PM
Mine is 33 I think.

Mechie3
09-12-2013, 08:22 PM
I have the aluminum ones but didn't have issues because I had TIC bushings from my old steel arm pressed into the aluminum ones. Good catch though.

VD2021
09-12-2013, 08:36 PM
Found a little time tonight to do some more work. I decided to powder coat all the aluminum that is visible up front. I also powder coated all the rivets so that they blend right in. What do you think?

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05712_zps27846881.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05712_zps27846881.jpg.html)

Wow, Michael. I just purchased a few boxes of black aluminum rivets from MacMaster Carr.

longislandwrx
09-14-2013, 10:57 AM
Did you run your tanks through the dish washer? They look great.

AZPete
09-14-2013, 11:59 AM
Good question . . . how did you clean up the brake and steering fluid reservoirs? They look new.

michael everson
09-14-2013, 12:21 PM
Just soap and water. Dishwasher would be ideal.

michael everson
09-20-2013, 04:50 AM
Started working on mocking up my suspension. Keep in mind I cannot make anything permanent due to the fact that I have no hardware. The hardware pack is on back order. I will continue to skip around until I have it.
Here are the holes drilled for my lower shock mount. I decided to tap them rather than nut and bolt. Just a little cleaner look.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05721_zps14000c96.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05721_zps14000c96.jpg.html)

I decided to mount the bracket opposite what the drawing shows. It just fits better and should make no difference. The mount hole is in the center of the 2 lower holes.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05722_zps2e61f13e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05722_zps2e61f13e.jpg.html)

All mounted up to the car. The 04 WRX spindles have not been an issue so far. Everything bolted right up. Hopefully alignment wont be a problem.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05728_zps31f6384f.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05728_zps31f6384f.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05730_zps20ea5cfe.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05730_zps20ea5cfe.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05727_zpsd3c0159c.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05727_zpsd3c0159c.jpg.html)

Brake rotor installed. These are off of a later model STI they are huge. 13 inches I think.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05731_zps8a938fdd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05731_zps8a938fdd.jpg.html)

Here is the caliper installed. I may pull these apart and powdercoat them red. Havent decided yet.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05732_zpsa8c5f4a3.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05732_zpsa8c5f4a3.jpg.html)

michael everson
09-20-2013, 04:52 AM
The rear suspension is starting to come together as well. A few complications have come up. Nothing major though.
The aftermarket lower control arms were not really a direct bolt in. Could be my fault. Maybe I bought them fro the wrong configuration. The portion that mounts to the spindle points straight back. However the boss on the spindle is at an angle. Probably 10 degrees or more. I just bent the mounts and then had to slot the holes to get them to line up again. Once I am satisfied with the fit, I will weld in the slots and redrill the hole in the proper place.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05734_zps8f61673b.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05734_zps8f61673b.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05733_zps0231cb6d.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05733_zps0231cb6d.jpg.html)

longislandwrx
09-20-2013, 07:30 AM
Looks fierce. The black brakes look great. I wouldn't touch them.

C.Plavan
09-20-2013, 09:16 AM
Looking good. Love the detailed pictures.

Goldwing
09-20-2013, 10:07 AM
Looks great! You might consider adding an inspection of the tapped lower suspension mount to the maintenance list. I bet they'll be fine (if I had aluminum LCAs, I'd consider doing the same), but just a gut reaction, dissimilar metal corrosion possibilities and the softer aluminum in a loaded spot could be something to keep an eye on. Just my gut speaking, not any real engineering background knowledge here.

michael everson
09-20-2013, 10:15 AM
Im not too concerned because the rear mount is done the same way from the factory. Tapped hole in aluminum, and steel bolts holding it together.
Mike

Mechie3
09-20-2013, 10:27 AM
Im not too concerned because the rear mount is done the same way from the factory. Tapped hole in aluminum, and steel bolts holding it together.
Mike

I can see two differences: The rear mount uses larger bolts (if I recall correctly) and are mounted transversly so they're loaded in shear. The front bolts are smaller (weaker thread) and mounted axially so they're loaded in tension. Shear loading takes the load along the radial direction of the threads so you're loading the body more than pulling on the threads. The tension loading pulls directly on the threads.

Not saying it won't be fine, just that it is a little different so keep an eye on it.

RM1SepEx
09-20-2013, 12:11 PM
Play it safe, use a nut too...

michael everson
09-21-2013, 01:20 PM
Got my tires and wheels mounted today. I bought the wheels through Very Cool Parts. (aka Wayne) Plenty of clearance around my big brakes. Doesn't look like I will have any rubbing issues either. Hard to tell with it in the air and not aligned though.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05736_zps1fc5af8d.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05736_zps1fc5af8d.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05737_zps3dd562f1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05737_zps3dd562f1.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05735_zps6c2bba06.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05735_zps6c2bba06.jpg.html)

Finally got the rack mounted. I broke down and bought all the bolts I needed. Cannot wait for the hardware package any more. (too impatient)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05738_zpsee3d3fd9.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05738_zpsee3d3fd9.jpg.html)

metalmaker12
09-21-2013, 04:27 PM
Like wheels might get the same ones, still debating

wallace18
09-21-2013, 05:06 PM
At least you had the spacers for the rack. I ended up making my own. I had to buy bolts as well, the ones with the kit were too short.

metalmaker12
09-21-2013, 05:43 PM
Dito

Mechie3
09-21-2013, 06:07 PM
My WRX winter wheels look like those. Switching to them is one thing I actually like about the coming cold. Lol

michael everson
09-21-2013, 06:09 PM
I didnt get the spacers either. I made my own.

RM1SepEx
09-21-2013, 07:17 PM
Early builders go through growing pains...

metalmaker12
09-21-2013, 07:28 PM
Wr blue decided

Frank818
09-21-2013, 07:59 PM
I want your brakes. Now. loll


215/45/17?

C.Plavan
09-23-2013, 11:25 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on your front control arms (rear mounts near firewall)- Shouldn't they be mounted on top of the mount (rear) or was that the early version that people had problems with?

Also, the "flat" ear of the rear bushing mounts should be on top (you have the curved side up)? They say to swap sides in the manual.

michael everson
09-23-2013, 11:43 AM
I did flip them. The manual is a little screwy on that part. It's says to do one thing but the pictures show another. I put them on the only way they would fit.
Mike

C.Plavan
09-23-2013, 11:49 AM
Ahh- Yeah- that is confusing. Is that the "R" ride height?

Bob_n_Cincy
09-23-2013, 11:50 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on your front control arms (rear mounts near firewall)- Shouldn't they be mounted on top of the mount (rear) or was that the early version that people had problems with?

Also, the "flat" ear of the rear bushing mounts should be on top (you have the curved side up)? They say to swap sides in the manual.

I believe mounted over/under the way he has it is correct. But curve side should be down, so he needs to just spin them around on the arm shaft.

michael everson
09-23-2013, 11:51 AM
Not sure. Maybe I have them on wrong.

RM1SepEx
09-23-2013, 11:55 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong, but on your front control arms (rear mounts near firewall)- Shouldn't they be mounted on top of the mount (rear) or was that the early version that people had problems with?

Also, the "flat" ear of the rear bushing mounts should be on top (you have the curved side up)? They say to swap sides in the manual.

they are correctly placed but the side with the inflection goes down. They need to be flipped. The manual shows them incorrectly on top all over the place,double digit locations!

michael everson
09-23-2013, 12:59 PM
If the bushing is in the center of the two arms, what will flipping accomplish?
Mike

Wayne Presley
09-23-2013, 01:01 PM
They are not in the center

longislandwrx
09-23-2013, 01:03 PM
If the bushing is in the center of the two arms, what will flipping accomplish?
Mike

The "arms" are different, one is flat and one has a bend. just rotate it.

21729

michael everson
09-23-2013, 01:03 PM
Ok thanks.

longislandwrx
09-23-2013, 01:04 PM
easier to see in the picture I added.

michael everson
09-25-2013, 07:28 PM
Started working on the front brake lines. I have the braided lines and hard lines all in place. I did them a bit differently than the manual but the end result is the same.

Instead of running a line out to a T I decided to use one of the junction blocks right off the bias adjuster.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05743_zps691f28ea.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05743_zps691f28ea.jpg.html)

Here are pictures of how I ran the hard lines.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05754_zps6db520de.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05754_zps6db520de.jpg.html)


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05753_zpse560fbba.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05753_zpse560fbba.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05751_zps76924de3.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05751_zps76924de3.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05750_zpsf7875f2d.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05750_zpsf7875f2d.jpg.html)

Here are the braided lines mounted to the calipers.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05748_zps972a0860.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05748_zps972a0860.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05746_zpsb9d11bb2.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05746_zpsb9d11bb2.jpg.html)

Frank818
09-25-2013, 07:38 PM
Mike, what's that blue stuff crushed under the upper triangle of the suspension in the 2nd to last pic?

RM1SepEx
09-25-2013, 07:45 PM
ball joint boot

michael everson
09-25-2013, 08:03 PM
Ball joint boot. Looks terrible. It's not finalized yet. Doesn't fit very well

RM1SepEx
09-25-2013, 09:05 PM
nice looking line routing! did you buy add'l lines or cut/flare as needed?

Xusia
09-25-2013, 10:12 PM
I'm really confused. In the pics it looks like the hard line that runs into the Wilwood bias adjuster is coming from the clutch master cylinder. I must be seeing something wrong.

AZPete
09-25-2013, 11:09 PM
Thanks, Mike. I'm just planning my brake lines and taking both fronts off the proportioning valve makes it much cleaner. I think I can mount the proportioning valve between the two masters.

michael everson
09-26-2013, 04:19 AM
The clutch master has the fitting right on the front. You can see that its open.
Pete. If you mount it there just be aware it will be very difficult to get to when it comes time to adjust.
Dan: A little of both. I try to make them as neat and clean as possible. I bought a very good flare tool so it doesn't concern me to make custom lengths.

Mike

wallace18
09-26-2013, 05:10 AM
Real nice job on the t-fitting. I wished I did it that way. I did it like the 33 rear brakes.

RM1SepEx
09-26-2013, 06:12 AM
I only have the old double bar flare tool, I'm really good at wasting brakeline stock! LOL I just bought the correct lengths... after... :-)

michael everson
09-26-2013, 08:56 AM
Dan. There is only one way to make a perfect flare using that tool. Just forget to put the fitting on first. It will be perfect every time you forget.
Mike

Wayne Presley
09-26-2013, 09:23 AM
Dan. There is only one way to make a perfect flare using that tool. Just forget to put the fitting on first. It will be perfect every time you forget.
Mike
So true...Ask me how I know...

metalmaker12
09-26-2013, 10:39 AM
Lol ditto

longislandwrx
09-26-2013, 11:34 AM
I wish there was a like button for comments, and a this happens to me all the time button.

RM1SepEx
09-26-2013, 12:07 PM
I did it too... sheepish grin

michael everson
09-27-2013, 06:44 PM
Here is my attempt at the rear brake line. I threw the body side panel on first to make sure I had plenty of room.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05778_zpsba822793.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05778_zpsba822793.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05777_zpsdbdbe2d9.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05777_zpsdbdbe2d9.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05780_zpsbe876425.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05780_zpsbe876425.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05776_zps02d526dd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05776_zps02d526dd.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05774_zps040d6200.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05774_zps040d6200.jpg.html)

I am using braided lines in place of the stock rubber lines. My stock ones were a mess.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05775_zps6e8b5335.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05775_zps6e8b5335.jpg.html)

I think the rear line came out pretty good. Too bad it will never be seen again. I plan to run the right side line down the tube and under the engine mounts. Then back up the right side tube to the other braided brake line.

michael everson
10-01-2013, 04:23 AM
Here is the crossover line. Brake lines are now all done. Will run the clutch hard line next.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05781_zpsb77219c3.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05781_zpsb77219c3.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05783_zps0510e372.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05783_zps0510e372.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05782_zpsbd25d29f.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05782_zpsbd25d29f.jpg.html)

wallace18
10-01-2013, 05:43 AM
Mike I really like your rear brake line setup. I hope you don't mind if I copy it.

Mechie3
10-01-2013, 07:59 AM
I ran mine along the rear firewall, but I'll need to put a heatshield over it. I don't like how close to the headers it is.

NicksPapaw
10-01-2013, 09:41 PM
Looking good Mike. Keep up the pace. You will be done in no time.

michael everson
10-06-2013, 05:20 PM
Now that my wife is commuting to and from Boston, It gives me a couple of hours at night to play in the garage. Here is some progress on my build.

My kit is now on all fours.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05787_zps1007653e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05787_zps1007653e.jpg.html)

I have the Boyd Fuel tank installed now. It went pretty smooth. I put rubber bulb seal on the bottom and back side to protect it and stop any rattles.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05788_zpse88a55d3.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05788_zpse88a55d3.jpg.html)

I made up spacers for the mount points so that I would not bend the ears while tightening the bolts. These are needed due to the thickness of the weather stripping.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05791_zps4c6da167.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05791_zps4c6da167.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05790_zps6698fa95.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05790_zps6698fa95.jpg.html)

I also put dynamat (knock off) on the tank floor to help with noise. The rear fire wall will be insulated inside and out once the car is complete

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05793_zps1aba0627.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05793_zps1aba0627.jpg.html)


The firewall is installed with 1/4-20 screws to make it removable in the future if needed.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05794_zps4f882677.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05794_zps4f882677.jpg.html)

Check the top corners for interference with the welds. If you want it to sit flat, you may need to notch these areas.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05795_zps8ffb1d4e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05795_zps8ffb1d4e.jpg.html)

michael everson
10-06-2013, 05:23 PM
I have fitted and drilled the E-brake plate too.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05799_zps6fb4396a-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05799_zps6fb4396a-1.jpg.html)

center tunnel all drilled and ready to go in.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/FFR818/DSC05797_zpsd2adcafc.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/FFR818/DSC05797_zpsd2adcafc.jpg.html)

More to come as I get time.
Mike

wallace18
10-07-2013, 04:35 AM
Any reason you did not move firewall back further with Boyd tank?

michael everson
10-07-2013, 06:09 AM
I didn't see any need with my height. Thought about it though.

michael everson
10-11-2013, 04:34 PM
Had some time this week to start cleaning up my drivetrain. Its really nasty. I didn't get very far, but here are some pics of the progress.

Here is the start as removed from the donor.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05806_zpsada40298.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05806_zpsada40298.jpg.html)
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05804_zps97fc971c.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05804_zps97fc971c.jpg.html)

After cleaning, painting and powder coating

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05811_zpsc769f620.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05811_zpsc769f620.jpg.html)

Here is the clutch slave cylinder. No before pic, but it was nasty. Its now powdercoated black.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05808_zps2a9d89b1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05808_zps2a9d89b1.jpg.html)

Before shot of the coolant fill container.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05807_zps19c8fa23.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05807_zps19c8fa23.jpg.html)

After

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05810_zps21773a68.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05810_zps21773a68.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05809_zps36771211.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05809_zps36771211.jpg.html)

michael everson
10-11-2013, 04:35 PM
TGV after modifying and powdercoating red. The intake will be done with the same red.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05813_zpsdfa2b7b3.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05813_zpsdfa2b7b3.jpg.html)

Mechie3
10-11-2013, 04:47 PM
The starter and slave look great.

waruaki
10-11-2013, 07:42 PM
On your TGV delete did you remove the vanes/injector plates from the inside?

I'm getting ready to do mine but I'm on the fence if its the best move to remove and grind them off or leave them and just remove the shafts and butterflies? I know Grimmspeed removes it on the ones they sell.

22468

Mechie3
10-11-2013, 08:32 PM
All gone. No rod, no plates, no divider, no motor and sensor.

michael everson
10-11-2013, 09:17 PM
I left the divides. Everything else is gone.

Kalstar
10-11-2013, 09:32 PM
I didn't see any need with my height. Thought about it though.

How far back could the firewall go? Crazy idea, if you relocate the gas tank maybe put a 6 gallon in the front of the car, would there be enough room to put two very small built in seats ala Lotus Evora? Seems the lotus and the 818 have a similar cockpit size.

metalmaker12
10-11-2013, 09:42 PM
How far back could the firewall go? Crazy idea, if you relocate the gas tank maybe put a 6 gallon in the front of the car, would there be enough room to put two very small built in seats ala Lotus Evora? Seems the lotus and the 818 have a similar cockpit size.

Lol, like real people size seats?

michael everson
10-13-2013, 04:11 PM
Got me alternator figured out. I bought the factory metal bracket and went from there. I stripped it and powder coated it black. Next I made an adjuster that is about 3 inches long with left and right threads. A spacer is required on the lower bolt to make the rod straight. Another smaller spacer is used on the top because the bolt size is smaller than the rod hole. The spacer goes all the way through the rod hole to make up the difference. It has a shoulder on it to keep it in place.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05819_zpsa9b549a7.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05819_zpsa9b549a7.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05821_zps9a5a9ca2.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05821_zps9a5a9ca2.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05820_zps9b644a48.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05820_zps9b644a48.jpg.html)

longislandwrx
10-14-2013, 06:35 AM
Where did you get your rod/rod ends, I have yet to find a place with a really good selection.

michael everson
10-14-2013, 09:09 AM
rod ends are from McMaster-carr. They are 3/8-24 thread with a 5/16 hole.I made the adjuster.

michael everson
10-18-2013, 01:49 PM
Trying to work on some ideas for a remote brake and clutch reservoir. I made up these nipples to go into the masters.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05824_zps18668f77.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05824_zps18668f77.jpg.html)


You can see the retaining bracket in this picture.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05826_zps007941f2.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05826_zps007941f2.jpg.html)This is the first attempt. Hoping to make them a little shorter in the end.



No need to figure out the hose routing and remote mounting area.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05827_zps3eeaafcd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05827_zps3eeaafcd.jpg.html)

I am not 100% sold on using this reservoir. Looking for one that I can mount on the windshield surround, has 2 nipples out the back and fits in that area nice. Does anyone see any reason why the clutch and brakes cannot share the same reservoir?
Mike

longislandwrx
10-18-2013, 02:19 PM
Does anyone see any reason why the clutch and brakes cannot share the same reservoir?
Mike

Nope, many manufacturers are doing this on new cars.

Xusia
10-18-2013, 03:31 PM
I assume they use the same fluid then? (remember, I'm not all that mechanically inclined!)

AZPete
10-18-2013, 06:25 PM
Xusia, yes, both clutch and brakes use DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Not a dumb question at all.

Mike, good work. I tried putting the windshield in place today and noticed how much it covers both reservoirs. I'm waiting for you to do the heavy lifting on the remote reservoir and then I'll just follow along and hopefully you will offer a kit.
Pete

07FIREBLADE
10-18-2013, 08:35 PM
Xusia, yes, both PS and brakes use DOT 3 brake fluid. Not a dumb question as many cars use power steering fluid in the PS.

Mike, good work. I tried putting the windshield in place today and noticed how much it covers both reservoirs. I'm waiting for you to do the heavy lifting on the remote reservoir and then I'll just follow along - (a freeloader saying the check's in the mail) :)
Pete

You mean clutch and brakes use the same fluid. We don't want to get people confused here. Power steering is different from dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. Most of the time it will be the same as the ATF the car is normally running.

AZPete
10-19-2013, 11:20 AM
Thanks, Blade, I edited my post to fix my stupid errors. Brake and clutch systems use the same: DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Power steering uses DEXRON lll.

And for those not familiar with the roadster forum, Mike Everson has designed, produced and sold several popular items for roadsters and I hope he will come out with a remote reservoir kit for the 818. Hurry up, Mike. :) I need it.
Pete

michael everson
10-25-2013, 05:23 PM
I think I have my engine looking pretty good now. I did a cosmetic cleanup which included powdercoating the valve covers and the intake\TGVs red. I powdercoated everything else that was nasty, black. Here are a couple of before and afters

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05800_zpsdbd17fdd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05800_zpsdbd17fdd.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05802_zps94db12ae.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05802_zps94db12ae.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05801_zps221cb91e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05801_zps221cb91e.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05828_zps0c4eaf30.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05828_zps0c4eaf30.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05830_zps4e02950f.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05830_zps4e02950f.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05829_zps43a6cc6d.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05829_zps43a6cc6d.jpg.html)

michael everson
10-25-2013, 05:24 PM
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05832_zps6054c536.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05832_zps6054c536.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05831_zpsd060bd20.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05831_zpsd060bd20.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05833_zps5ae9165c.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05833_zps5ae9165c.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05834_zpsfde95fbd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05834_zpsfde95fbd.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05835_zps76c68083.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05835_zps76c68083.jpg.html)

michael everson
10-25-2013, 05:25 PM
I thought about buying a new lower pulley, but once its in the car, you cannot see it. The exhaust pipe drives me nuts though. Its gotta go.
Mike

Kalstar
10-25-2013, 06:31 PM
Outstanding!

metalmaker12
10-25-2013, 07:26 PM
Not bad for a rookie lol, nice man

Erik W. Treves
10-25-2013, 08:20 PM
very nice!

Bob_n_Cincy
10-25-2013, 11:07 PM
Michael
The engine and transmission looks great.
Is there instructions or a youtube on how to clean up a transmission the way you did?
Bob

michael everson
10-26-2013, 04:56 AM
Bob. I washed off the heavy grease and oil. I then wire brushed and degreased it again. Then just painted it with "cast aluminum" spray paint. Looks better in pictures then in person. Still better than it was.
Mike

wallace18
10-26-2013, 05:01 AM
Looks good Mike!

Bob_n_Cincy
10-26-2013, 09:28 AM
Bob. I washed off the heavy grease and oil. I then wire brushed and degreased it again. Then just painted it with "cast aluminum" spray paint. Looks better in pictures then in person. Still better than it was.
Mike Thanks Michael

AZPete
10-26-2013, 11:56 AM
"Rattlecan rehab" It worked for me too.

Wayne Presley
10-26-2013, 07:24 PM
Looking great Mike

Scott J
11-10-2013, 04:16 PM
Mike, I have the same brake setup from a 2004 STI and the 02 wrx transmission. I was told by FFR that the axle conversion will not work with the rear hubs from the STI. Have you fitted your rear axle yet?

michael everson
11-10-2013, 06:46 PM
No. I have not. I knew going in that they would not work. If I had to do it again, I would buy 02 rear uprights and caliper bracket adapters. I am having the Drive Shaft Shop build me a set of axles. They are over $900 shipped. Ouch.
Mike

Scott J
11-10-2013, 07:00 PM
Thanks for the info Mike. I guess I'm going to get the 02 uprights and adapters. Sorry to hear the axles are so expensive:(

THE ITALIAN
11-10-2013, 09:13 PM
Nope, many manufacturers are doing this on new cars.
Just a question here; would you do this on a race car??
Using hard braking and shifting, you would think that 2 reservoirs would be best??

Dumb question here? or are there separate reservoirs in one unit?

michael everson
11-11-2013, 05:27 AM
I really don't know. In my head one reservoir would work just fine. That's why I am asking these questions. Probably 99% of people are not going to race there car.
Mike

Wayne Presley
11-11-2013, 08:13 AM
Just a question here; would you do this on a race car??
Using hard braking and shifting, you would think that 2 reservoirs would be best??

Dumb question here? or are there separate reservoirs in one unit?


Every OEM dual feed single reservoir system has a partial height divider in them to retain braking on one half if there is a leak in the other half.

metalmaker12
11-11-2013, 08:14 AM
I personally think one reservoir may be just fine for such a light car on a track. Certainly two would improve things and would not be a bad investment, but mike is selling these to the majority of the builders who will not be racing this car, and his kit will be very helpful to many.

michael everson
11-11-2013, 10:49 AM
Wayne is right. And I think the reservior I am using has this as well.
Mike

apexanimal
11-11-2013, 04:58 PM
I'll still be using two as the brake fluid I want to use is too fancy for clutch duty...

Wayne Presley
11-11-2013, 05:28 PM
I'll still be using two as the brake fluid I want to use is too fancy for clutch duty...

Uh how is brake fluid become too fancy for clutch use? :cool:

metalmaker12
11-11-2013, 06:30 PM
Uh how is brake fluid become too fancy for clutch use? :cool:

Yea enlighten us

apexanimal
11-11-2013, 09:53 PM
Fancy being more expensive...

#pennypinching

RM1SepEx
11-11-2013, 10:33 PM
we are talking 8 oz of fluid!

apexanimal
11-12-2013, 03:54 PM
Yup... I'm won't be doing the single reservoir either, but some dot 3 castrol works just fine in a clutch where some motul or other nicer brake fluid seems a bit overkill...

Not saying anyone else can't do it... I was trying to make a joke out of it... :/

THE ITALIAN
11-13-2013, 02:34 PM
Every OEM dual feed single reservoir system has a partial height divider in them to retain braking on one half if there is a leak in the other half.
DAM ! Dr Wayne hits it again ! Who the hell would know that and why?

Dr Wayne, Viagra or Cialis ? and what if I have an erection lasting more than 4 hours? My wife said get a girlfriend, but the costs……

Frank818
11-13-2013, 03:03 PM
lollll

indiana818
11-21-2013, 07:47 PM
[QUOTE=michael everson;121097]TGV after modifying and powdercoating red. The intake will be done with the same red.
im getting to ready to start on mine on friday i hope mine looks 1/2 as good as yours does
kerry: what type of paint did you use? powder coat?

michael everson
11-23-2013, 06:14 AM
Its been a long time since I have posted anything. I have been trying to get a HotRod ready for the paint shop. Since that's gone, I should be able to post a little more progress here. I have been jumping around a lot on this build, but there is a method to my madness. I started installing some of the body panels. I started with the side pieces and rear bumper. I then moved on to the nose and concentrated on that.

I found that there was no way to get the bottom of the nose to mount to the radiator cross bar. So I made up a bracket out of aluminum angle.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05870_zpsbd46cf9b.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05870_zpsbd46cf9b.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05871_zps0cd1b83a.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05871_zps0cd1b83a.jpg.html)

This bracket is slotted on one side and has nutserts on the other side. This allows for some adjustment up and down and left to right. The lower holes in the body are slotted as well.

Here is what the finished bracket looks like

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05874_zps11cad273.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05874_zps11cad273.jpg.html)

The headlight buckets went right in with only minor trimming. I went a different route for the lower bracket mounting.
I bought these weld in studs from McMaster-carr and bonded them to the underside of the nose.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05869_zps91986385.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05869_zps91986385.jpg.html)

Here is what they look like installed

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05892_zpse58eaece.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05892_zpse58eaece.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05891_zps1e10e576.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05891_zps1e10e576.jpg.html)
Using these allows me to not have the bolt passing through the nose.

michael everson
11-23-2013, 06:33 AM
I also needed to notch both the nose and the headlight buckets in order to get the nose far enough back to line up with the fenders. This may vary from car to car depending on tolerances.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05893_zps6a58e9f9.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05893_zps6a58e9f9.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05894_zpsaea834ad.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05894_zpsaea834ad.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05893_zps6a58e9f9.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05893_zps6a58e9f9.jpg.html)

On to the passenger door. No real issues, just lots of trial and error on the first one. The steel frame bolted on to the Subaru hinges with no issues. The latch bolted on perfectly too. The mounting screws were missing from the hardware pack. Not sure if its just mine or all of them. I found some metric flat head screws from the Roadster steering wheel mounting kit that worked.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05876_zps61e09678.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05876_zps61e09678.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05879_zps3cb9ce60.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05879_zps3cb9ce60.jpg.html)

I did find that once the door was mounted, I ran out of slot length on the frame. I could not move the door far enough forward and not hit on the back side of the door. I ended up making the slots longer by about 1/4 inch. that solved that problem.


Trial fitting of the aluminum.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05875_zpse420b21a.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05875_zpse420b21a.jpg.html)

here are all the door related parts all powder coated and ready for final installation.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05877_zpse25fd9db.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05877_zpse25fd9db.jpg.html)

michael everson
11-23-2013, 06:34 AM
And all installed.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05878_zpsd5b3f7ad.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05878_zpsd5b3f7ad.jpg.html)

I opted to use flat head bolts on the bottom of the door to give me a bit more room and not have them rub once its painted.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05880_zps62b4974c.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05880_zps62b4974c.jpg.html)

Here is the door fitted to the chassis. Works very well.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05883_zps1a184d32.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05883_zps1a184d32.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05882_zps894bcd6f.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05882_zps894bcd6f.jpg.html)

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05896_zpsf09b58d7.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05896_zpsf09b58d7.jpg.html)

wallace18
11-23-2013, 07:17 AM
Looks great Mike! Thanks for the pictures and tips.

Quiny
11-23-2013, 07:42 AM
looks great Mike, what did you finally decide on for rims and tires?

michael everson
11-23-2013, 08:52 AM
Quiny. I haven't decided if I am going to stick with what I have or go to something with more spokes. Really like the wheels that FFR used on the red car.
Mike

Erik W. Treves
11-23-2013, 09:26 AM
looking great

Frank818
11-23-2013, 11:22 AM
Nice pictures!

Scott J
11-23-2013, 07:45 PM
Thanks for all of the parts today Mike. I'm sorry I missed you. Your build is coming great, I'll definitely have to stop by again to see it when I purchase the next pieces you design. Is the alternator belt included with the kit or separate (part number?). What do you use for powder coating (Eastwood?) and how big of an oven do you use.
Thanks again, Scott

THE ITALIAN
11-24-2013, 04:48 AM
You are really giving GREAT shots of your altering ideas. Really enjoy your details. These ideas, and sharing your thoughts are appreciated. This is how questions are answered when confronted with the same problem
Thank You, you are building a data base for years to come. Mike
Have any ideas about finishing the inside of the fiberglass, I would like to "clean-up" the exposed fibers with one solution. I know there are weight junkies out there, but details can make the car , even some sound deadening where it is not exposed - just a thought.

michael everson
11-24-2013, 05:48 AM
I plan to use bed liner or undercoating on all exposed panels. I really don't want to see bare fiberglass.

Scott. the alternator belt comes with the kit from FFR.
Mike

metalmaker12
11-24-2013, 07:05 AM
Agreed, I am using bed liner on all exposed glass. Looks shaky, you must be an rookie lol. Getting one of my doors kinda together, they sent me a package with all kinds of stuff, it looks like door panel hardware. See ya this coming week, and thank you

C.Plavan
11-24-2013, 12:05 PM
Great job Michael. I love your detailed threads and ideas.

I received my care package from you also- great parts!


Are those studs 1/4 by 1/2inch long?

michael everson
11-24-2013, 04:45 PM
yes. 1/4 by 1/2
Mike

Mechie3
01-06-2014, 09:26 PM
Did you mount your doors in the order listed in the manual? It seems if you mount the catch on the door jam ,then mount the door skin and cut it and then adjust it you'd end up with the lock mechanism no longer being lined up.

Clubba
01-12-2014, 01:14 PM
Wow! That looks like a new motor! Great job!

Quiny
06-07-2014, 10:15 PM
Hey Mike how goes the build? Anything new?

michael everson
09-02-2014, 09:48 AM
I know its been a long time since I have updated my build thread. Truth is I have not had a second to work on my kit. This weekend I did find some time. I finally got the whole car wired and most of it checked out. Thanks to my neighbor and fellow builder , Randy we were able to get the headlight switch working properly. Other than that small glitch, everything worked. I have not tried to fire the engine yet though. Hopefully after buying some missing parts, I can finish up the engine and fire it up. After that, I will remove the harness and cover and tape it up. Its amazing how small my harness is compared to some others I have seen. I ended up using a Painless harness to handle the whole car with the exception of the engine. I dieted everything out of the stock harness that did not directly interact with the engine. Makes for a very small package. Once its running, I just need to finish up the interior and finish mounting the hood and rear engine covers.
Mike

Mechie3
09-02-2014, 10:18 AM
How much was your painless system? Did it retain the alarm?

michael everson
09-02-2014, 10:41 AM
I think the painless harness is about $400.00 It a stand alone universal harness I used part number10102. No alarm stuff.
mike

JeromeS13
01-29-2015, 09:52 PM
It's been wayyyy too long, Mr. Everson. Any progress?

michael everson
01-30-2015, 05:57 AM
Jerome. I have not had time to do much on it. I will post an update this weekend. with some progress.
Mike

michael everson
02-15-2015, 05:13 PM
Ok. Heres an update. I haven't had too much time to work on the 818, but did get some interior work done. First, I knew I wanted to use harnesses, so I needed a way to mount them. For the uppers, I bought the harness bar from Factory five. The lowers were a little more tricky I started with the thickest piece of metal I could find. Quick jacks.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02508_zpsffgncb6b.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02508_zpsffgncb6b.jpg.html)

I used quick jacks for one of the floor mounts. They are bolted through the frame in three places. Should be plenty strong enough.


http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02509_zpsk2upgdxk.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02509_zpsk2upgdxk.jpg.html)
Here is a pic of the quick jack modified and ready for use.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02511_zpsamrje2a8.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02511_zpsamrje2a8.jpg.html)

And here it is installed.
I thought I took pics of the outer mounts, but I guess not. They were made from the FFR supplied stock seat mounts. they are bolted through the frame in 2 places.

michael everson
02-15-2015, 05:20 PM
I decided to buy the covered dash and door panels. The dash is so much nicer than the stock unit. I have not opened the door panels yet.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02514_zps3zvx46by.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02514_zps3zvx46by.jpg.html)

Looks good mounted in the car.
needs more support than the 2 brackets that are supplied. I will make at least 2 more.

I also wanted to install a radio. I needed to make a console in order to do that. This is my first attempt. Came out pretty good.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02520_zpsxsro5jtl.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02520_zpsxsro5jtl.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02522_zpsmw9baven.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02522_zpsmw9baven.jpg.html)

The front plate is removable so I can add to it as I see fit. I know I will be adding some switches and possible a cubby. The plate will be powder coated black once it is finalized.


http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02521_zpszjakckzc.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02521_zpszjakckzc.jpg.html)

Even installed speakers in it.

I made the rear upper firewall removable even once the car is finished. This required cutting it a little narrower to clear the insulation and carpet. It was then insulated and carpeted out of the car. It can be removed with just a few screws. This panel got speakers as well.


http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02526_zps8lpbwzwq.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02526_zps8lpbwzwq.jpg.html)


Here are some pics of the interior fully insulated. Should be pretty quiet and cool.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02527_zpslx4350oo.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02527_zpslx4350oo.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02529_zpsat5rvmqq.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02529_zpsat5rvmqq.jpg.html)

michael everson
02-15-2015, 05:27 PM
http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02528_zpskzloldzj.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02528_zpskzloldzj.jpg.html)

I used the Breeze seat mounts and will be installing a set of FFR high back seats that I picked up at the open house.

The following pics show the interior almost done. I still need to finalize the tunnel, but waiting on a new shifter from VCP before I can finish that up. I also plan on using an electric parking brake, so no need for a handle.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02530_zpscg3m8ofi.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02530_zpscg3m8ofi.jpg.html)
http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02531_zps76wouzen.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02531_zps76wouzen.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02533_zpsnhcjybzx.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02533_zpsnhcjybzx.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02534_zpsobcjgt3y.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02534_zpsobcjgt3y.jpg.html)

michael everson
02-15-2015, 05:30 PM
My next project will be to see if I can get a heater and defroster mounted under the dash. There should be plenty of room.
Mike

icky
02-15-2015, 05:39 PM
Simple and clean, I like it.

JeromeS13
02-15-2015, 09:20 PM
Is that the FFR full carpet kit?

michael everson
02-15-2015, 10:25 PM
Jerome. No. I cut it myself. I don't know how much there kit covers.

wallace18
02-16-2015, 07:27 AM
Nice work Mike!

ehansen007
02-16-2015, 12:04 PM
Clean as always. What do you think about the kit and the way it goes together compared to the others?

michael everson
02-16-2015, 05:10 PM
Its been a huge learning curve for me. Not familiar with all the Subaru stuff, lots of guessing and changing along the way. I am sure 5 years from now these will be almost as easy to assemble as the Roadster kits. In my educated opinion, these will take longer to build than the roadster. Partly due to the multiple body panels, and the amount of aluminum that needs to be fitted and riveted. Not to mention the dieting of the harness. Someone really needs to come out with a cost effective harness that is plug and play. Somewhere around $800-$1000 would be fair.
Mike

AZPete
02-16-2015, 05:59 PM
Mike, I'm impressed with our build and just went back through this build thread.
"Someone really needs to come out with a cost effective harness that is plug and play." - I agree! I thought I was done with dieting/wiring but now I'm back into it chasing a few codes and dash lights. Yech.

rjh2pd
02-16-2015, 07:03 PM
Here is an option for a heater. Are you going to be doing a coupe, or an open top with a heater?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/70601/10002/-1

07FIREBLADE
02-27-2015, 06:11 AM
Looks good, I like your center console what are the sides made out of? Also you speaker locations are perfect might need to copy you.

michael everson
02-27-2015, 09:33 AM
The center console is made out of aluminum. It is then padded and covered in vinyl.
Mike

TouchStone
02-27-2015, 03:12 PM
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05746_zpsb9d11bb2.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05746_zpsb9d11bb2.jpg.html)

Your missing the front outer cv joint. This and the axle nut hold the wheel bearings in place and probably should be torqed before lowering the car.

39155

michael everson
02-27-2015, 04:48 PM
Touchstone. That's an old picture. I was waiting to have the outer joint cup removed. It never saw an pressure.
Mike

michael everson
02-27-2015, 04:58 PM
I have all the front wheel well panels powder coated and installed. Since I am not planning on using the sway bar, I made a panel to cover that hole as well.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02544_zps4xpqcljk.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02544_zps4xpqcljk.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02545_zpspxcq1qsu.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02545_zpspxcq1qsu.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02546_zpsugk4j7of.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02546_zpsugk4j7of.jpg.html)

Here are a couple of pics with the windshield installed. Really starting to look like a car now.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02550_zpsvwej9xpw.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02550_zpsvwej9xpw.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02547_zpsn4yjz0mf.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02547_zpsn4yjz0mf.jpg.html)

And the Dash and windshield together.
http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02549_zpswwnugtxy.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02549_zpswwnugtxy.jpg.html)

I still have quite a bit to do before its finished. Getting closer every day though
Mike

tmoretta
02-28-2015, 09:57 AM
Hey Michael - why did you separate the front of the hood?

RM1SepEx
02-28-2015, 10:24 AM
because if you don't you can't get an even space, the hood touches on both sides... Aloha818 did the same thing

metalmaker12
02-28-2015, 01:38 PM
I didn't have an issue, I am really unsure of why it's needed, though I like it too.

michael everson
02-28-2015, 03:09 PM
I did it so that I could hinge it. If you look back thruogh my build site, you will see it.
Mike

metalmaker12
02-28-2015, 03:40 PM
I did it so that I could hinge it. If you look back thruogh my build site, you will see it.
Mike

I know why you did it mike, just trying to understand what Dan means. What up man, weather breaks I am driving my 818 up to ya to check out what your doing.

RM1SepEx
02-28-2015, 05:00 PM
He cut the hood to make it shorter to not hinge it at the front edge. There is very tight clearance because of how the nose is molded too narrow and as it hinges the hood interferes with the nose.

Check Aloha818 build thread, I found the same thing, if you mount the hood so that it is even with the front of the car it is too wide and you can't hold a consistent 1/8 gap EVERY FFR car has the hood mounted a little bit back to avoid any interference with the hood and nose. I'm hinging mine, but with my new panels I'm going to get a bit fancier than what I did with the hood that now resides at FFR. My new hood and nose have the exact same issue as the originals. The returns under the hood hit the sides of the nose. Aloha split his nose panel a wee bit to add hood clearance. I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to do rev II

I like your pegs Chris, I can see how the hood could either hinge or be lifted off with some shoulder bolts sticking out of the side.

I just put it back on jack stands today to start seriously working on remounting my new panels.

AZPete
03-01-2015, 12:56 PM
As Dan wrote, I think Mike cut the front of his hood so he could hinge it. But, I don't see any detail in this build thread so, Mike, could you please explain or post photos of your front hood hinge?
Dan, Aloha didn't hinge the front hood but made internal brackets to hold it on. I found this on Aloha Build Thread, page 13, post #490. Maybe I'll do that but ideally someone (Mike?) will come out with a front hood hinge for sale.

07FIREBLADE
03-01-2015, 01:32 PM
Front hood hinge for sale done deal. Take my money :D

RM1SepEx
03-01-2015, 07:56 PM
Aloha818 didn't hinge it but he cut the sides of the front nose to keep even gaps, as molded, the hood is too wide at the front where it meets the nose. If you try to hinge it at the front point it rubs due to the interference and the angles of the return of the hood. Rather than deal with that Mike cut off the front of his hood and spliced it into the nose. Notice that it leaves a consistent gap. Then he hinged it in back of the place where he cut it. It does show some shots of his custom bent hinges in his thread

michael everson
03-02-2015, 05:45 AM
Here is a link to the hood hinge thread. I didn't realize I had a separate thread for that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14600-My-first-attempt-at-a-hood-hinge&highlight=hood+hinge

AZPete
03-02-2015, 01:38 PM
Thanks, Mike, for the link to the hood hinge thread. I had forgotten about that as it was past my limited memory span, I guess.
I repeat: Get to work on a front hinge for sale! ;) There's so much demand that you'll be able to retire to Monte Carlo and own an F1 team! Really.

Frank818
03-02-2015, 01:42 PM
I repeat: Get to work on a front hinge for sale! ;)

I second that!!


There's so much demand that you'll be able to retire to Monte Carlo and own an F1 team! Really.

Marussia?

michael everson
03-02-2015, 05:04 PM
Here is a step by step of how I am mounting my grilles. This will allow me to remove them for paint if I ever get that far.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02551_zpsixx6vl57.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02551_zpsixx6vl57.jpg.html)

First step is to cut the perforated material a little smaller than the trim ring.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02552_zpsu3nyayd4.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02552_zpsu3nyayd4.jpg.html)

Next lay both pieces in the recess and line them up so that they fit well and no perforated material is shown around the edges. Mark any 2 holes through the perforated material.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02553_zpsot5gyyyt.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02553_zpsot5gyyyt.jpg.html)

Remove the trim ring and drill the holes you plan to use to bolt it down. I drilled them the same size as the existing holes. 3/16 diameter.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02556_zpsmenhuqyb.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02556_zpsmenhuqyb.jpg.html)

Put the trim ring back in and mark where the body needs to be cut.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02558_zpsesmbxjbh.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02558_zpsesmbxjbh.jpg.html)

Next counter sink the holes that you transferred to the body. I used 6-32 flat head screws.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02560_zpspa5ccxlp.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02560_zpspa5ccxlp.jpg.html)

After all the holes were countersunk, I powder coated both pieces semi gloss black

michael everson
03-02-2015, 05:05 PM
http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02561_zpskhhtffaa.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02561_zpskhhtffaa.jpg.html)

After the powder coating has cooled, epoxy the 6-32 screws in the holes you counter sunk.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02563_zpsoohc5b6n.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02563_zpsoohc5b6n.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02564_zpsz3nvsqsj.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02564_zpsz3nvsqsj.jpg.html)

Run a bead of black silicone around the perimeter of the trim ring and place it on top of the perforated material and clamp in place.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02566_zpskpcia7m7.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02566_zpskpcia7m7.jpg.html)

Here is a different panel installed on the car. Just unbolt and remove if needed.
This opening still needs final trimming.
Mike

Scargo
03-02-2015, 05:28 PM
I like this a lot. Looks good! Do you mind sharing the perforation size/spacing or whatever you call the spec of the material?

michael everson
03-02-2015, 06:53 PM
Scargo, it just the stuff that comes with the kit.
mike

Scargo
03-02-2015, 07:06 PM
I guess I should unpack all my stuff! :o
In my defense, I think that the S is very different from an R. I don't know what those differences are.

matteo92065
03-02-2015, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the tips. I'll do this to my rear vent this weekend.

michael everson
03-03-2015, 07:22 PM
Started working on the rear wheel wells today. Once these are riveted and installed, there is no way to remove them. The upper mounting tab will be inaccessible once riveted together. I decided to cut the tab off and make a removable mount.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02573_zpsve88c1ih.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02573_zpsve88c1ih.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02574_zpsmywx3fyn.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02574_zpsmywx3fyn.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02572_zpscpe20mme.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02572_zpscpe20mme.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02575_zpszhft1hkv.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02575_zpszhft1hkv.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02576_zps7wkalefl.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02576_zps7wkalefl.jpg.html)

Now I can remove the wheel well as one piece if ever needed.


http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02569_zps5u9u1pqn.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02569_zps5u9u1pqn.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02570_zpsrthytwrk.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02570_zpsrthytwrk.jpg.html)

I have the wiper kit completely installed and working. Works pretty good.

michael everson
03-03-2015, 07:26 PM
Here are some pics of how the car looks today. Not too much left to do. Pretty short list.

Install door panels
install hood pins on both rear decks
Install pins on back of hood.
Install outside mirrors
Install inside mirror.
I think that's about it.
My plan is to put it up for sale as soon as its finished. I will sell it unpainted, and let the next person decide the color. The reason I am going to do this, is because I really want to build a hard top version.
I think it might be easier to start from scratch and make it a permanent hardtop.
Mike

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02579_zps1oecraty.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02579_zps1oecraty.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02581_zpsfeq1z2ud.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02581_zpsfeq1z2ud.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02582_zpska3sigq0.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02582_zpska3sigq0.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02583_zpskpilv458.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02583_zpskpilv458.jpg.html)

Kalstar
03-03-2015, 09:15 PM
Still love those wheels.

michael everson
03-04-2015, 05:38 AM
I am not a big fan of them. Especially once I accidently knocked one over. The spokes stick out so far that when I knocked it over, it scraped all the paint off them. Hitting a curb would do some serious damage to them.
Mike

wallace18
03-04-2015, 08:11 AM
Nice job Mike.

tmoretta
03-04-2015, 09:33 AM
Mike. Is your remote brake reservoir kit now available with the mount to adapt to the wiper kit (as shown in your pic.)? If so I want it.

michael everson
03-05-2015, 05:59 AM
Started working on the interior door panels.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02584_zpsnrbpj7zp.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02584_zpsnrbpj7zp.jpg.html)

I started by insulating the inside of the doors. I did this for road noise. It also gives the door I nice solid feel when you close them.

Trial fit the door panel and drill the mounting holes.

Check the fit of your aluminum inserts. If you have the padded panels your aluminum probably wont fit. I had to trim all fours sides to get them just right.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02588_zpsghealazo.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02588_zpsghealazo.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02589_zpsxd7lda9g.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02589_zpsxd7lda9g.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02590_zpsch4lxkzf.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02590_zpsch4lxkzf.jpg.html)


Use the aluminum insert to mark the location of the door handles.
Once this is marked. Use the actual door handle and make the opening bigger so that you can get the door panel off without removing the handle. You will thank yourself for this later. The aluminum panel will cover the hole.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02592_zpsmgbjhlqs.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02592_zpsmgbjhlqs.jpg.html)

Here is the handle with aluminum insert installed in the panel.

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02586_zpskmg8ythq.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02586_zpskmg8ythq.jpg.html)

http://i1365.photobucket.com/albums/r754/meverson1/DSC02585_zpshvbdsoo8.jpg (http://s1365.photobucket.com/user/meverson1/media/DSC02585_zpshvbdsoo8.jpg.html)

Here is the finished product. Start to finish was probably 6 hours. I suspect the second side will take half that.
I decided to hit the insert and the door pull with a scuffing pad and then clear powder coat them.

Hindsight
03-05-2015, 07:48 AM
Looks nice Mike!

svanlare
03-05-2015, 10:04 PM
Looking very good. Thanks for posting all the details!

Frank818
03-08-2015, 06:10 PM
6h for one door?? Wow that's pretty quick! I think it'll take me 25h for one door.

That reminds I haven't saved the donor's rear door hinges. Gotta call my Subaru dealer and order 4. Damn it.