View Full Version : Brake lines
jackboeker83
08-23-2013, 08:47 PM
Doing my brake lines and I am going to run braided steel lines from the master cylinder to the outside of the footbox and connect the hard lines from there. Has anyone done this that has pictures or that could give some advice? Also going to get rid of the rubber hose that comes with the complete kit and would like to run braided steel there as well. Has anyone done this and what parts did you use? I am looking on Summit but there are about a million brake lines/parts to sift through. Any help would be appreciated.
edwardb
08-23-2013, 10:48 PM
Have done brake lines on two Roadsters now. I haven't used braided lines at the M/C end. Most just use the regular hard line. On the four corners, I've used stainless braided on both builds. For my Mk4, I got them from Forte's. The pack slip shows them as "Russell PL-F4 DOT Hose Kit." HTH
you will need custom lines so it fits perfect. You need to find a brakequip distributor in your area so you can get DOT approved lines. However, i would still recommend against using flex line at the masters as they can leak even though they have been pressure tested.
jackboeker83
08-24-2013, 06:24 PM
ok got the brake lines done and ordered the braided steel from forte but should I be putting Teflon inbetween the connections? I heard both ways... some say only use liquid Teflon and some say don't use it at all.
lazrcng
08-24-2013, 09:35 PM
There are some photos in this thread in posts #62 & #63
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10060-Lazrcng-MK4-Build-Thread/page2
Bob Cowan
08-24-2013, 09:44 PM
Lately I have seen some new cars with braided line near the MC. As long as you use a quality DOT hose, I wouldn't have any problems with it. IMO, though, the fewer connections you make, the fewer potential leaks you'll have.
There's no need for thread sealant of any kind. But I do like to use a little bit of anti-seize on all brake connections. I might want to take them apart some day.
jackboeker83
08-24-2013, 10:41 PM
lazrcng... you are my hero... can I have your car? lol jk Good stuff thanks. Where did you get that steering wheel?
lazrcng
08-25-2013, 06:18 AM
Jackboeker83 LOL......No problem...as others have said just make sure to get DOT approved lines (and a power bleeder make it very easy too). If you have anymore questions let me know. The steering wheel is from Factory Five, I ordered it from the online store. Got the wood one with my kit then went a different direction.
CraigS
08-26-2013, 07:54 AM
I usually apply a small amount of grease or oil to the threads of the fittings. I make sure none gets inside the fittings. I do that because it is sometimes surprising how much you need to tighten them to get that final seepage stopped.
CHOTIS BILL
08-26-2013, 08:24 AM
One thing to be aware of when using liquid Teflon is that some types contain thread locker as well as PTFE. They look the same coming out of the tube.
From McMaster-Carr:
LoctiteŽ and LoctiteŽ PTFE—Ideal for high-vibration areas. Use on metal threads; not for use with thermoplastic or oxygen systems. LoctiteŽ PTFE are PTFE combined with adhesive.
I found out the expensive way.
Bill Lomenick
edwardb
08-26-2013, 11:05 AM
I agree 100% with what others have suggested. No Teflon anywhere on the brake fittings. These are mechanical flare fittings, so no sealant is necessary, plus you don't want to take any chance to contaminate the brake fluid. What I did do on my Mk4 build, where I used all stainless tube and fittings, I very carefully put a light wipe of anti-sieze around the threads of the tube nuts. A good idea in any case, and especially for stainless. I also put a dab of brake fluid on the flare before assembly. Just to give a little lube when tightening then, and later if needed.
Description and pictures of the installation in my build thread, starting a post #4: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/299597-mk4-7750-build-progress-update.html#post2759380