King's MK4 Coyote Build

[2bking]

I'm still working on the body. You don't know what you don't know until you don't know something. I think that statement means I'm confused when it come to the process of transforming the nice red shiny gelcoat into a different color. I've cruised the forums to find answers and reached out to some. I have to give many thanks to Jeff Kleiner for helping me with my many dumb questions. This isn't my first rodeo when it come to painting a car and my skills may be a little rusty. I don't know much of the new paint lingo. I looked like a fish out of water when I went to the paint store with a color number for a tri-color paint. The first serious question from the man behind the counter with 30 years of painting experience was, "have you painted a car before?" He seemed torn between loading down the freshman with all the books in the book store and getting me exactly what I needed but after a little cobra talk and telling him about the kit he soften up. He explained the pitfalls in the tri-coat painting and loaded me up with 2 gallons of paint, a quart of stripe color, 5 quarts of clear coat, free stirring sticks, and free paint filters. When I factor in all the sandpaper, sanding blocks, body filler, feather fill, K2 primer, and a few miscellaneous items, I'll have about $1,400 invested in the supplies. But it doesn't stop there because I still have about $150 worth of cut and buff products to buy that doesn't include a buffing machine. That's another $75. I'm over running my $1,000 dollar paint budget!

I decided to start on the underside of the hood and complete it so I could reassemble the body on the chassis. I get to practice my painting skills there and see how the ghost stripe will look before committing to the outer body surfaces. The underside of the body is very rough and has numerous lumps and runs/puddles of resin. The fiberglass reinforcement layers over the seams makes humps that can't be ground down without weakening the body structure. A lot of the area over the tires will be covered with bed liner so I'm not concerned with the surfaces there. The other areas that are visible with the front tilted open are what I am concentrating on. I've used 3/4 gallon of body filler (most of it sanded away) and it is looking very good. As the major flaws are smoothed out the minor ones become major ones and another round of filler get applied. I had to make a judgement call as to when to quit filling and sanding and start painting. I started painting it today. Below are some progress pictures with the last having two coats of base color. I have some runs that need attention before spraying another coat. This is very thin paint that I'm getting used to.

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[sbak]

That hood underside is looking good.Congrats on tackling your own body work. Working on the FFR body, I suspect, would be the same as a fiberglass boat. I raced sailboats for about 30 years and while we were only concerned with the part below the waterline, getting the fiberglass filled and really smooth is a process. Then would spray it with a 2-part barrier coat, sand off most of it.. spray more on, sand off that and repeat this about 4 times. At least you don't have to worry about dealing with any blisters in the gelcoat on a new car body or sanding something 25 feet long.

[carlewms]

King,

Looking good ... As soon as I get the start and go kart ... body is next.

Carl

[2bking]

That hood underside is looking good. Congrats on tackling your own body work......Then would spray it with a 2-part barrier coat, sand off most of it.. spray more on, sand off that and repeat this about 4 times. At least you don't have to worry about dealing with any blisters in the gelcoat on a new car body or sanding something 25 feet long.

Thanks sbak! Yep, the dust on the floor is expensive stuff. But your imperfections get hidden underwater where only the fish get to see.

Carl, are you going to do your own body work?

[RRussellTx]

King,

I just read the entire build thread from the beginning and it's very impressive! You are definitely building it with 'all the options'! I'll need to come check it out sometime since you are so close by.

[carlewms]

King,

I am giving it serious thought. I do at least want to do as much of the preparation as possible to both learn and get er done.

Carl

[2bking]

Just another update on the body work. Here is a picture of the under side of the hood before the clear coat. The room reflections make it look like the paint is different shades but it really is nice and even and really popped when the clear was applied. I experimented with the stripe and decided I wanted it darker than the body color on the top side.
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I think the hard part is behind me, sanding that is. The paint color is Ford RZ Candy Red which is a tri-coat paint meaning there is a base coat that has the glitter, a mid-coat that is a see through that gives the paint depth, and then the clear coat that provides the protection and shine. The base coat has no shine and the mid-coat has a little and the color doesn't come alive until the clear is applied. I've gotten the base coat done and am in the process of masking the stripes. I'm going with ghost stripes which will be done by varying the mid-coat thickness. I'm thinking the painting will be finished later this week. Here are a few pictures of the body in primer and reddish base coat. Next layer is the mid-coat which is a see through red. Then the clear coat and I'm done painting.
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[DaleG]

Can't wait to see the finished paint job!

[sbak]

Very nice.. like how you're doing it yourself.. nice color too!

[WIS89]

King-

I love that color! I am really looking forward to seeing you finish her up.

Awesome build thread!

Regards,

Steve

[2bking]

Thanks everyone for the accolades. Today the painting is done! "Dallas" says that the body work was the most enjoyable part of his build. I can sense some of what he is referring to but it was a lot of labor and mess. I have a couple of mistakes, one in the body work and one in spraying but only I know where they are. I think when I'm done with the cut and buff they will be unnoticed. For this novice and his first time painting with a tri-color paint, I think it turned out very nice. I was worried about color variance and planned the spraying pattern so the overlaps were in curved areas and that seemed to work out very well. The stripes are really ghost like, they are there but not very noticeable.

I'm not sure how the painters get to the bottom edges of the body but I solved the problem by hoisting the body buck up about three feet. It allowed me to get below and get good coverage on the lower edges and inside the wheel wells. And the spray gun didn't stir up dust from the floor. I needed to paint all areas at the same time so I made a rotisserie for the trunk lid. It allowed me to paint the top and bottom sides without having to wait for the paint to dry. It was built in about 30 minutes using a bumper from a tractor, some square tubing and a little welding. It's pretty crude but worked well.

Here are some pictures of the stripe masking and the finished product.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Ya' done good my friend :D

Jeff

[wrenchhead]

King,
Impressive build thread and I love the color.

Yigal

[Q7S6R8]

King,
I live in Austin. I'd like to fly up in my plane and check out your build. I am thinking about a build like yours. Seems like a huge time commitment.
Ed

[DaleG]

Man! Gotta love the look without the hood opening; so clean.

[2bking]

King,
I live in Austin. I'd like to fly up in my plane and check out your build. I am thinking about a build like yours. Seems like a huge time commitment.
Ed

Hi ED, I see you have one post so I don't think you can use the private messages yet but if you can, PM me. I'll give you the almost done tour.

[dallas_]

Looks fantastic King!! You done good. :)

Almost to the finish line now.

[DaleG]

Looks fantastic King!! You done good. :)



Now THAT is an understatement!

[carlewms]

King,

Simply amazing job. Could you amplify on how you did the ghosting?

Congratulations!

[2bking]

King,

Simply amazing job. Could you amplify on how you did the ghosting?

Congratulations!

Actually I got help from the forum on the method I used. Originally, I was thinking a different shade of the mid-coat but in some exchanges with Jeff Kleiner, he suggested varying the mid-coat thickness (number of coats) which would not have any color compatibility issues that might be present with a different shade. The bottom side of the hood has a two coat difference with the stripe being a lighter color. I wanted a little less contrast on the top side and decided I wanted the stripe to be a darker shade from the rest of the body. So the top side has one coat difference and the masking wasn't any harder than the underside of the hood. I made the stripe on the underside of the trunk lid match the underside of the hood. The first coat of the mid-color was applied to the stripe on the top side and masked from the stripe area on the bottom of the trunk lid. After the first coat the masking was removed and three more coats of mid-coat were applied to all surfaces.

[WIS89]

King-

The ghost stripes look terrific! Very subtle effect, but stunning result.

More pics man, more pics!!! ;-o)

Great work.

Regards,

Steve

[gunkk]

Very nice work. Great choice of color!

[2bking]

I'm finishing up some small details, one of which is a splash shield to cover the opening into the side of the body at the front of the rear wheel well. This is a picture looking into that opening where the aluminum covering the bottom of the door opening is visible.
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I made a part out of cardboard to get the curves dialed in and used it as a templet to cut the real parts. The left and right sides are very close to the same contours so I was able the use the templet for both sides. I like to be able to remove the parts that may interfere with the body removal if that time ever comes again so I use nutserts in the place of rivets to attach the parts. I've discovered the Truck Bed Liner in a spray can is much more durable than the undercoating so I am using it now for the black panels under the car. I sprayed the parts and baked the coating at about 200 F to get a faster turn around. I used some left over bulb seal on the edge where it contacts the body to get a good seal. These are pictures of the bare part and installed.
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I have a few more parts to make to cover some body openings around the foot boxes and the car is about finished. I think the last items are the roll bars that are at the chrome platter now and won't be ready until mid December. I will try to register it next week but it being a short week will probably mean a slip into the next.

[carlewms]

King,

Thanks for sharing ... I like that nice finishing touch.

Carl

[cgundermann]

Nicely done!

[rcflash]

looks awesome

[2bking]

This build is coming to an end in a few weeks. This post is a catch up of some of the details I have been during the last few weeks while doing the final assembly and adding the accessories. Before I installed the body, I carefully measured the body contour around the foot boxes in plane with the firewall so I could cut a foam seal to block any air from the engine compartment from getting into the passenger space. I used some black 1 1/2" thick closed cell foam that is used in the refrigeration industry for sealing around cooling coils. I cut it about a 1/2" larger than the space between the body and foot box so it will get compressed when the body goes on. Since I have a tilt front, I only have to deal with half the body and it is easy to pull the sides out to slide it down over the door hinges and other protrusions (foam). The foam crosses right below the rear of the windshield slots and was easy to force out of the way when the windshield was inserted thus maintaining a seal from lower body lip to firewall bulb seal. I glued the foam to the foot boxes using a weather strip contact cement. Weldwood contact cement would have probably worked but I went with what industry uses for this foam.
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When I placed the windshield and did the final torque on the side frame screws, two wouldn't torque down and stripped the threads. My first reaction was to pull the brass strips and replace them with the stainless ones offered by Breeze. But on closer inspection the screws only caught half a thread and weren't long enough to utilize all the thread in the brass strip. So I flipped the brass strip and put it back in the slot and replaced all the screws with button head stainless ones that were a bit longer. The little longer screws won't be an issue as far as causing a windshield crack because there is a metal barrier behind these screws so they can't touch the glass in the windshield. All the screw torqued down with a solid feel. Here is a picture of extracting the brass strip. A flip front has its advantages.
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Its not completely assembled but here are a few in progress photos. I have the FFR premium top by Rod Tops (very impressed with the attention to detail and quality) and installed it to figure out how it played with the rearview mirror and sun shield.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Bravo! Well done King :cool:

Jeff

[chopthebass]

Looks great! Some creative fabrication there.

[DaleG]

Gobsmacked!

[2bking]

Bravo! Well done King :cool:
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, you helped me a lot. :)


Looks great! Some creative fabrication there.
Thanks chopthebass, I think the biggest feat was the tilt front. It works very well and I am quite pleased how it turned out.



Gobsmacked!
Thanks Dale, I had to look it up and found it to be Australian lingo.

Some of the still to be done items on the list was setting frame height and checking corner weights. I set the frame height about a year ago but it now has additional weight on the chassis so it was about 1/2" low all the way around. Adjusting the coil-overs on the rear was easy because the IRS would droop enough to free up the springs. The front shocks limited the droop so the springs were still loaded with the wheels off the ground. I made a spanner tool to adjust the front springs. It took about 30 minutes with some scrap material and worked very well.
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After the ride height was established, I wanted to weighed each corner but didn't have anything but three bathroom scales purchased a few years ago for another purpose. The bathroom scales have a maximum weight reading of 300# and I knew the each wheel would be around 600# so it would take all three scales and divide the weight between them. I unassembled a wheel dolly to use as a cradle for holding the tire with the scales placed under it. I blocked the other tires to be the same height as the one being weighed so the chassis wouldn't be disturbed during the process. I biased the fulcrum for the end with the single scale so it would have less than half of the weight by using a thin strip of wood at the very edge of the dolly. It can be seen in one of the photos. To make a long story short the total weight was 2360 with a 51% rear bias. The maximum left/right difference was on the rears with the right side 30# heaver than the left. Here are a few pictures of the Red Neck method.
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Now I need to check the alignment on all four and I think I will be ready for the ASE Master Mechanic inspection.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ahhhh, that wasn't the bathroom scale method I was expecting when I first read what you were doing! Nothing at all wrong with that way and just as an FYI here is another approach for anyone who may be curious.

No photos but hopefully you can get the idea from this crude representation:

Pivot]_ 1/4_____]TIRE[____ 3/4___________[Scale

You're working with a fulcrum principle. The vehicle tire is placed on a 2X12 which spans between the scale and a pivot (a piece of angle iron perpendicular to the board with it's point up would work well) To make it easy lets say the center of the tire is 1 foot from the pivot and 3 feet from the scale. Done in this ratio the weight shown on the scale is 25% of what is actually on the wheel; i.e. 200 on the scale=800 at the wheel. Clear as mud? Sure, it's not as accurate as using a full set of digital race scales but it also doesn't cost 2 grand and will get you closer than nothing which is how 95% of these cars roll out after they're built.

Good job King!

Jeff

[2bking]

Ahhhh, that wasn't the bathroom scale method I was expecting when I first read what you were doing! Nothing at all wrong with that way and just as an FYI here is another approach for anyone who may be curious.

No photos but hopefully you can get the idea from this crude representation:

Pivot]_ 1/4_____]TIRE[____ 3/4___________[Scale

You're working with a fulcrum principle. The vehicle tire is placed on a 2X12 which spans between the scale and a pivot (a piece of angle iron perpendicular to the board with it's point up would work well) To make it easy lets say the center of the tire is 1 foot from the pivot and 3 feet from the scale. Done in this ratio the weight shown on the scale is 25% of what is actually on the wheel; i.e. 200 on the scale=800 at the wheel. Clear as mud? Sure, it's not as accurate as using a full set of digital race scales but it also doesn't cost 2 grand and will get you closer than nothing which is how 95% of these cars roll out after they're built.

Good job King!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, and good info for anyone trying to do the home weight. I considered it but to make it accurate, the tire needs to be on a fulcrum so the distances are fixed. I was lazy and didn't want to spend the time to fabricate the lever with three fulcrums. It wasn't going to save me any time because the scales I have don't read weight until its applied and then the display blanks out after 5 seconds. For the short story long it was a PIA to jack each wheel three or four times until I got repeatable results. Even though each scale read a different weight with each jacking, the total was within 5# of each measurment.

In the process I came to realize it was a waste of time other than the info gleaned. I weighed each wheel before I fine tuned the ride height. In the beginning the frame had a tilt of a 1/8" from one side to the other at the rear as well as too low by a 1/2" while the front of the frame was too low by 1/2" on each side. The front wheels were within 15# of each other and the rears had a difference of 75#. The wheel with the most weight was the one where the frame ride height had the highest out of plane error and in my case it was the right rear. After setting the ride height through several iterations (4.5" rear, 4" front), I took the wheel weights as posted previously. My conclusion is the frame is stiff but flexible so corner weight jacking can be found with a good flat floor. When the frame is level side to side (assuming no frame damage), the car should be balanced for turning left and right.

[Georg]

Congratulations King, your build is really exceptional and very helpful for my future build. I love the color theme and all the details and looking forward to see more pictures!
Thanks a lot, Georg

[2bking]

As part of the registration in Texas, I need a certified weight receipt and a inspection by a ASE Master Technician. I drove it to a nearby scale (at a land fill trash site) that will issue a certified weight receipt. The certified one reads 2380#, my bathroom scales showed 2360#. It gave my method of weighing the wheels some validity.

Next was the inspection. I took it to a Firestone Car Care Center that had the needed Technician for the inspection. They had me drive it on the alignment lift and proceeded to check some known areas of problems and came back all smiles and complements. The rest of the visit was spent with them taking pictures (first Coyote they had seen) and talking cars.
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I was not exactly satisfied with the way the windshield wipers laid at the bottom of the windshield at rest. I wanted them parallel with the chrome frame. I had seen where others had heated and bent them so I did the same. I have a heat barrier blanket that is used around combustible items when using an open flame that is in the picture that allowed me to do the bending on the car to see the immediate results. The arms are stainless so the heat marks are easily removed with fine sandpaper.
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As part of my accessories is a windshield washer. I mock up the parts to find the best location for the squirters and discovered the aim of them was too low for best installation location. I search for others and found these that looked to be adjustable but didn't say so.
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Sure enough, the ball at the base of the nozzle is molded in but with a little encouragement it pivots. I can finish the washer system in the next few days.

During the drive to the scales and inspection, I put about 40 miles on the car and had a few times where the Coyote died coming to a stop. I found if the clutch was disengaged with the engine above 1500 RPM the PCM would control the idle and below that it was hit or miss. I have the speed dial installed but haven't wired it to the PCM so I'll do that and see if it fixes the problem. If not, I'll need a tune.

[RRussellTx]

Looking good King!!

Did they say anything about the amount of threads extending past the nuts?

[2bking]

Looking good King!!

Did they say anything about the amount of threads extending past the nuts?

I don't think they inspected for that unless that was what he meant when he said, "a known problem area," while pointing to something under the car and talking to another employee. But he could have been referring to the fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, etc. Whatever it was he liked what he saw and came out all smiles.

[KDubU]

This is a great build! Love the tilted hood.

[soaringDude]

Congrats King, the car looks great. Next time I am in the area I have to stop by and see the finished product. You did an amazing job...

[2bking]

Congrats King, the car looks great. Next time I am in the area I have to stop by and see the finished product. You did an amazing job...
Give me a shout and I'll take you for a ride.

Today I completed the registration process. I knew more about the process than the woman helping me thanks to all the info available on these forums. She had to get the office managers help who then had to research the title manual to verify that I didn't need the State Inspection. I had all the paper work in hand that was needed and after conformation concerning the State Inspection, all went smoothly.
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[2bking]

I'm down to little things while waiting for the roll bars to come back from the plater. Just to finish up on the windshield washer install, the new washers have a 3/8" threaded post. I could have used then as is but the large post would have required them to be moved closer to the cowl edge to get nut clearance on the bottom side (there is a rib under there that can't be seen now). I cut the posts down on the lathe and rethreaded them to 1/4-20 UNC threads. After I installed them ,I adjusted the nozzles to get the water stream to hit the mid point of the windshield. Here are a few pictures of the before and after of the posts and them installed.
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I also found after some driving that the FF floor mats wanted to migrate to the front of the foot boxes. I had purchased the Toyota mat retainers but thought they really wouldn't be needed. After witnessing the migration, I burned holes in the mats and installed the retainers. The hole required in the floor panels for the retainers is quite large, 7/16" drill, and is pictured. I used a butane soldering torch to punch the holes in the mats and cleaned up the holes.
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One last problem I encountered was the removal of the mats. The retainers are designed for a metal grommet in the mats which I can't duplicate so the lip on the retainers didn't want to give up the mats. I sanded off the front edge of the lip and problem was solved. The retainer in the bottom of the picture is as purchased and the top one is sanded down.
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[chrisarella]

As they say, the devil is in the details.

[MPTech]

Really like those floor mat retainers (I've experienced the same thing, mat sliding to the front). Do you have a part# or year model?


Found these:
Genuine Toyota Floor Mat Retainer Hooks Black Plastic Floor Mat Clips Hook Style, Excludes FJ Cruiser (http://www.brandsport.com/toy-00206-00801.html?cmp=fwgs2011&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4qSzBRCq1-iLhZ6Vsc0BEiQA1qt-zhtpbmjV4Oxnlht3YKuNioRLiavAojFayqy3CzQCca0aAjCJ8P 8HAQ)

http://ep.yimg.com/ay/brandsportinc/genuine-toyota-floor-mat-retainer-hooks-black-plastic-floor-mat-clips-hook-style-excludes-fj-cruiser-40.jpg

Thanks! GREAT build

[chrisarella]

That looks like them. I found them on Amazon for $4.50 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Accessories-00206-00802-Custom/dp/B00BRL73ZQ

[MPTech]

Even better! Thanks, just ordered them. (this has been on my winter mods list, but I never knew what to search for for holders)

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I haven't used them for the floor mat solution, but I've got several different sized grommet kits that I've used over the years. Here's an example from Home Smepo:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-1-2-in-Solid-Brass-Grommet-Kit-71264/100200416

You can get them in brass and aluminum, but I think this would really clean up the hole in the floor mats. Burning the hole will keep things from fraying nicely, but the grommets give it a very clean and professional look. Something to think about to keep the very professional look of your car King.

-TJ

[2bking]

That looks like them. I found them on Amazon for $4.50 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Accessories-00206-00802-Custom/dp/B00BRL73ZQ
That is the retainer that I purchased. You get two retainers per package and I used two per mat.

[bansheekev]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

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http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the male part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin

[2bking]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

48509

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the make part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin
That looks like a good solution and I could have used the idea but you are a little late to my party now. Perhaps a mat retainer thread would be beneficial for throwing in all the ideas.

[2bking]

There are not many items left on my list of things to complete but fixing things like trim that won't stay on, cleaning up some wiring, and installing rearview mirrors. Most are little things that don't warrant pictures but the rearview mirrors are a deviation from what is supplied in the kit. I didn't want to install the fender mirror because it needed holes drilled in the body and the mirror surface is a little small. I didn't want a $200 mirror either so I looked for something less expensive. I found these motorcycle ones for less than $20 a pair and thought I might make them work.
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I modified the first set I bought only to find I cut the shafts too short even though I measured twice so I ordered another set so I have $40 now invested.
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I actually had to cut the end of the shaft at 15* to get them to look right and get enough adjustment out of the mirror without interfering with the wind wings. I drill and tapped a #10-32 UNF hole in the end for mounting it to the windshield side bar.
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I marked the hole location on the side bar and drill the mounting hole. The DS is shown but the PS is similar.
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I also am not planning on using the dash mount rearview mirror because of the same reasons as the fender mount mirror. I purchased a Ford Rearview auto dimming mirror with compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink. I'll post some pictures of that installation later.

[David Hodgkins]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs!

:)

[edwardb]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs! :)

Hey, I like my Lego blocks! :p I agree. Amazing build. Looking forward to more details about that rear view mirror. Interesting...

[2bking]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs!:)
Thanks David but you have a nice set of Legos too!


Hey, I like my Lego blocks! :p I agree. Amazing build. Looking forward to more details about that rear view mirror. Interesting...
Paul, I like the way you perfectly put your Legos together.

[2bking]

I got a call from the plater today saying my roll bars are ready for pick up. They will be the last thing I need to install and then graduation.

I finished the center rearview mirror today. It is a Ford Accessory that can be found on the internet and Ford dealerships. It has auto dimming, compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink for garage doors and other devices. The mirror mounts to the windshield glass so I purchased a mounting block and attached it to the windshield. To keep the mirror from blocking the view out the front I mounted the block as high as possible. This one used a silicone base adhesive and required 18 hours to set. There are five wires that run to the mirror for all the functions so hiding them is not easy. I considered removing the windshield glass and using the inside of the frame but the entry and exit points were too complicated. I took a simple method and ran them through a 1/4" brake line and fit it to the inside contour of the windshield frame and safety wired it to the sun visor mounts. The tube doesn't interfere with the movement of the visors. I drilled a 3/16" hole at the inside of the windshield post to pass the wires into the engine compartment. Two of the five wires are to the temperature sensor and the other three are ground, +12, and ignition. It's very simple to wire up. I mounted the temperature sensor top center inside the nose. It has a clip that fit the lip so it attached quickly. I ran the wires along the other cables back to the windshield to keep them hidden. My Infinity front Power Cell is located on top of the PS foot box and had the circuits available to splice into for the other wires and added an inline fuse for the +12. The tube around the windshield that houses the wires isn't noticeable from the rear and can't be seen from the front. Here are the pictures somewhat in order of installation.
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I have the FFR premium top so the mounting of the mirror had to not interfere with the top attachment. Otherwise, the top channel in the windshield frame would have made an excellent path for running the wires.

[2bking]

I wanted backup light(s) and considered a lot of places to mount them and the type of fixture. I decided on the super bright LEDs and clustered them in the rear lights.
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They worked very well and then a couple of days ago only one of the four would light. Upon inspection three had burn spots like the right one in this picture.
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The fourth one quit a day later so I'm not sure what caused the failure. The specs say they are for 12 -14.5 V and I tested one to 20 V where it quit but a burn spot didn't appear like the others. They are all replaced now so time will tell if the same fate awaits these. On the way to the store to get the wiring supplies I got this hit on my windshield from a gravel truck coming toward me.
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I'll have to get another windshield soon.

[Jazzman]

Now that's a bad day! Sorry the trucks are out to destroy your work of art.

[WIS89]

King-

An awesome build wrapping up, is pretty darned exciting! I have really enjoyed following you along, and it is pretty cool watching you finish her up.

I like your back-up light solution. I have been wracking my brain trying to find a solution as well. I like the mini light that a lot of folks are using. However, your LED-fest really presents a unique solution. Can you post some more when you get finished?

So sorry to see that damage done to the windshield. Is this an insurance solution, or are you on your own?

Congratulations on finishing her up. I look forward to the graduation thread! Well done!!

Regards,

Steve

[2bking]

I like your back-up light solution. I have been wracking my brain trying to find a solution as well. I like the mini light that a lot of folks are using. However, your LED-fest really presents a unique solution. Can you post some more when you get finished?

So sorry to see that damage done to the windshield. Is this an insurance solution, or are you on your own?

Regards,

Steve

I'll take some detail pictures of a lot of parts when the weather gets a little warmer and I can move it to a more picturesque setting. The backup LEDs are Super Bright (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SOK3ZQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) sold by a lot of vendors. The windshield is on me, I only have liability insurance and I have ordered a replacement from FFR.

[dallas_]

On the way to the store to get the wiring supplies I got this hit on my windshield from a gravel truck coming toward me.
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I'll have to get another windshield soon.

King,
That sucks. As many trucks as you have around your place you might want to hold off as long as you can before you replace that one.

Car is looking great. Hope to see you at one of our monthly meetings soon.

[carlewms]

King,

That does suck about your windshield ...

Everything looks great. I really liked your side mirror solution which I will add to my list.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Carl

[aspbite]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

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http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the male part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin

Apparently these were used to hold the entire carpet on a lot of the English roadsters. Has anyone tried these for their carpet install?

[dallas_]

King,
Good seeing you today. Car turned out amazing. Really nice custom touches and the quality is great. Your tilt front is the new standard for that mod. Well done!
How about a graduation thread?

[2bking]

As most of you that follow my build thread and post have noticed, my avatar has changed. I couldn't find any badges for the fenders that matched my car so I had Billet Badges make a custom design. My avatar is the CAD proof they sent me for approval. The badges should be done in the next few weeks. I'm waiting on them for the graduation pictures. Here is the full size proof.
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I have another update I've been working on for the last few days that involves the side pipes. The sound from the FFR pipes turns heads and announces the coming of the car but can get very annoying for travel of longer distances. At highway speeds conversation is reduced to sign language. I have been following a thread on the other forum involving muffler testing (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/544713-muffler-testing.html) and the Flowmaster 13530320 Slimelines. (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/541570-these-side-pipe-mufflers-get-flowmaster-13530320-slimeline.html) The reports indicated the Flowmasters not only reduced the noise about 10 db but didn't rob horsepower doing it. It was a tough decision to cut out these beautiful mufflers.
51618

I did it and welded in the Flowmasters. They have a outer shell of stainless steel but a mill finish so they don't shine like the rest of the FFR pipes until they are polished. There are plenty of pictures on the other threads so I didn't document the process but I did retain the heatshields. The pictures are from the first install so the new mufflers haven't been polished yet. I wanted to hear how much change they made before putting the polish labor into them. I can say they were worth the pain. Conversations are easy and I'm thinking now that radio/speakers are useful. It still has a deep throaty sound but just quieter. It's everything David Borden claims and even better than I expected.
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[Jazzman]

Great badging, King. I am a long way from being ready for them, but I would like to do the same. Will Billet Badges now be offering them, or are they one of a kind just for you?

[MPTech]

Very cool eye-candy, the badges look really good. Thoroughly enjoyed your build.

[edwardb]

Nice work on the mufflers. I've always found the FF mufflers to be hard on the ears. I'm anxious to hear how the GAS-N's sound with the Coyote in my new build. Don't want to cut those up. Your badges look good. A little like the DART version I had them do (!), also in my avatar. They are good to work with, just not real fast. But very nice final product. You'll like the badges a lot. I'm pretty certain they would offer that same artwork to others.

[2bking]

Great badging, King. I am a long way from being ready for them, but I would like to do the same. Will Billet Badges now be offering them, or are they one of a kind just for you?
Thanks, I initiated the design but am sure they will sell it to others. I don't think I own the copyright since they made some changes from the original artwork I submitted.

Very cool eye-candy, the badges look really good. Thoroughly enjoyed your build.
Thanks

Nice work on the mufflers. I've always found the FF mufflers to be hard on the ears. I'm anxious to hear how the GAS-N's sound with the Coyote in my new build. Don't want to cut those up. Your badges look good. A little like the DART version I had them do (!), also in my avatar. They are good to work with, just not real fast. But very nice final product. You'll like the badges a lot. I'm pretty certain they would offer that same artwork to others.
I'm sure if the GAS-N's were satisfactory for your last build they will be a little quieter for the Coyote because of the smaller cubes and valve control.

I found Billet Badges through your lead thinking there was a badge that I could use but didn't so I went through the process of designing one. My previous avatar was the artwork I sent them; the new one is the changes they suggested and I approved. I purchased 4 thinking I might need an extra or two but may try to sell the extras to help pay for the artwork charge.

[WIS89]

King-

I like the new badges! It sounds like the folks at Billet Badges were reasonable to work with. I may end up doing something on mine, and may have to reach out to them.

Your car is really terrific, and that tilt front is just awesome!

Congratulations again.

Regards,

Steve

[TMScrogins]

Awesome build and awesome badges. Billet Badges do awesome work. I've used them twice. I had them make some badges for my Coyote Aluminator XS a while back. Here is the digital proof and the actual badges. Like others have said, very easy to work with, just very slow.
5165751658

[2bking]

Awesome build and awesome badges. Billet Badges do awesome work. I've used them twice. Like others have said, very easy to work with, just very slow.

Thanks, they are slow but truthful. The 4-10 weeks they quoted in now in week 8 so they should be getting here shortly. The badges are either fill in work where they are made or there is a ton of customers needing special ones.

[2bking]

Billet Badges finally came through after several polishing mistakes and machining errors (they did verify the problems with pictures they sent). I received the badges about May 20. My attention has been focused on the TKO 600 transmission vibration that was apparent on the first go cart drive. I have verified the bell housing is centered and drive shaft is balanced. The vibration goes away when the clutch disengages so the problem seems to point to the front of the transmission. If you saw my thread on the TKO 600 problem, I was convinced the problem was related to the front bearing but after replacing the bearing and re-shimming, the problem got worse. I removed the tranny one more time. I measured the tail shaft and input shaft runout before disassembly. The tail shaft was about perfect but the input shaft had .010 TIR runout at the pilot bearing surface. I removed the input shaft and measured it on centers and found a .002 TIR runout almost mid center of the length of the shaft. I ordered a new shaft but what I got was an almost new one. It had evidence of having been meshed with gears and a trace of wear at the front seal surface. I installed it and measured the runout at the pilot bearing surface. It had .004-.006 TIR runout. I put the transmission back in and drove it. The vibration is now acceptable but not gone. I'm thinking the shaft I received was removed from a transmission for the same problem I'm trying to solve. I should have measured it on centers too. I'm going to do some more thinking about options that may involve another transmission.

But back to the completion of the car. I've completed all the items on the build list so I can say it is done. Here are some pictures of the badges and car. Perhaps I can find some places to take the graduation pictures and post them in another thread.
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[Paul Mischenko]

Amazing build thread King, car is looking sweet. Many thanks for all the details, very cool mods.

[Jester]

King - thanks for the great post - Very nice work and great result! I may have to get a set of those badges.

Re the shimmy - I noticed on my build (Coyote with tko600) there was a slight shimmy at speed and I made a slight adjustment to the pinion angle and the shimmy went away (I believe I slightly reduced the pinion angle). I have the Moser 3 link rear (less complicated than the IRS). Please disregard if issues is solved

Keep us posted with this issue (my next build will be an IRS FFR)

[2bking]

King - thanks for the great post - Very nice work and great result! I may have to get a set of those badges.

Re the shimmy - I noticed on my build (Coyote with tko600) there was a slight shimmy at speed and I made a slight adjustment to the pinion angle and the shimmy went away (I believe I slightly reduced the pinion angle). I have the Moser 3 link rear (less complicated than the IRS). Please disregard if issues is solved

Keep us posted with this issue (my next build will be an IRS FFR)
I had thought the vibration felt in 3rd and 4th gear at the shifter handle was fixed when I replaced the drive shaft but it slowly came back. It's more pronounced during acceleration and deacceleration but is there all the time. I'm fairly certain it is originating in the transmission due to all the other things I have replaced and/or checked which includes clutch and drive shaft investigations. It is worse when the transmission is hot which seems to indicate the cool thicker fluid is dampening the vibration. I don't think it is something that will leave me on the side of the road someday so am going to let it go for a few thousand more miles. I will then open up the tranny and hopefully there will be some tell-tell wear marks to indicate the source.

Other than the vibration, I have had no other problems. The car is fun to drive and has plenty of power in the first couple of gears. Second gear ends at 80 mph so more power isn't much usable on the street. It's easy to service with the tilt front and I'm glad I did the mod every time I open the hood.

[carlewms]

King,

As usual looking really great and thanks for the detail on the Billet Badges ... I am going to order ones that have 347 on them ...

[Jester]

Thanks for the updated King.

Keep us posted re the vibration. Hopefully something simple.

Good luck

[2bking]

I've been enjoying the ride and have over 4k miles now. Around the Dallas area are many freeways and toll roads that I travel going to destinations around the area and I find trying to maintain a constant speed with a sensitive throttle is difficult. I find I have to constantly keep an eye on the speedometer and sometimes hinder the other traffic when my speed drops a little. I've wanted to add Cruise Control and read different threads related to the installation. From the threads I learned there was a Hot Rod kit available for the drive by wire controls like the Coyote has and checked out the units available. There were two options for locating the controls, either turn signal stalk or wireless on the steering wheel. I wanted the controls on the steering wheel where they were accessible without removing the hand from the wheel and but the wireless steering wheel control didn't fit our steering wheels.

I had modeled the steering components in ProE to make the horn honk with the hub on the center of the wheel so I had a quick start for designing the steering wheel control. I needed to get about five wires through to the wheel and there are two basic ways to do that: either a clock spring type device that allows a limited amount of steering shaft rotation or a slip ring device that allows unlimited amount of rotation. I couldn't find room for a clock spring device but could fit a slip ring inside the Russ Thomson VW Steering head. This was a research and development effort where I had no clue if such an endeavor would work mechanically or electrically but it seemed to have some chance of success so I ordered the 250-1882 kit from the Cruise Control Store. My plan was to strip the unknown guts from the stalk control that comes with the kit and repackage the switches in a housing that would fit on the steering wheel and run the wires through the slip rings to the control module.

The kit and stalk control that came with the kit looked like this:
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When I disassembled the stalk, I found three PWBs wired together and buttons that used resistive pads to activate the modes of On/Off, Set, and Resume and six wires that needed to get through the steering shaft. I designed a housing that would accept the guts and fit on one of the spokes of the steering wheel.
73153

This housing and the guts inside looks like this:
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The design of the slip ring looks like this in a section view of the steering assembly and a cut away view of the slip ring only:
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I found these small brushes to use for contacts to the slip rings.
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I designed a plastic block to mount the brushes and machined the bottom of the Russ Thomson Turn Signal housing to attach it. This picture was taken before the wires were attached to the screws holding the brushes:
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Two of the six wires had the identical +12V source so I combined those two in the control housing I made and reduced the number of wires to five, thus a five channel slip ring. I drilled the slanted hole through the steering shaft as seen in one of the pictures above and drilled the hole in the steering hub for the exit of the wires to the controller. I had some doubts about the system working because of the resistance in the slip rings of 10-15 ohms which seemed high for carbon brushes but that turn out to not be a problem.

I tried to use the output from the Speed Dial as the VSS input to the Cruise Module so I didn't have to install the magnets on the drive shaft but although it did accept the signal, the operation was erratic and the speed it maintained was -/+3 mph of the set speed. The kit comes with a divide by 3 module for reducing the VSS signal from the magnets and attaching it to the Speed Dial output might have fixed the problem but I was hesitant fearing it might destroy the Speed Dial when the grounds were combined so I installed the magnets. The operation of the Cruise Control became very similar to the DD. I have used it on several occasions in the last few days and am very happy with its manners. Here's one last picture of the control module attached to the steering wheel.
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[carlewms]

King,

Great Idea and, of course the wonderful execution.

[WIS89]

King-

Super job as always! I think cruise control is critical for my car, and I wondered how difficult it was going to be to execute. Thank you for sharing your application!

I may have to pester you when I get to that point in my build.

I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience!

Regards,

Steve

[sbak]

Excellent design and workmanship!

[edwardb]

Very nice work. I've had my eye on that cruise control setup after it was mentioned in another thread. Good to hear it works as advertised with the Coyote DBW.

[Dave Howard]

King is one of the early Coyote installers who broke a lot of ground for others to follow. There were no Coyote buildthreads to follow in 2012-13. A TRUE inovator and custom builder.

Good job brother

[wareaglescott]

Nice work King! Very cool

[2bking]

Carl, Steve, sbak, Paul, Dave and Scott, thank you for the accolades you bestow on me. Like GO Dad Go said about going off the reservation with his LS engine, like wise I did too with my flip front and dash but I am thankful to myself that I did put in the extra time. It's not close to a period correct Cobra but I didn't want one. Mine is easy to drive with some nice creature comforts. The flip front is a joy anytime there is something needed under the hood or just a front wheel alignment check. The speedo and tach are easy to observe, the wipers are close to the hand on the wheel, the console makes a good arm rest, and the parking brake is in easy reach for holding the car on a hill at stop lights. Oh, the AC in an open car has enough cool air flowing about to keep the sweat off me and my passenger in our Texas heat, I really like that. The cruise control is also very nice but the off/on light is a little too dim during the day. Anyway, thanks again.

[Mark Eaton]

There are not many items left on my list of things to complete but fixing things like trim that won't stay on, cleaning up some wiring, and installing rearview mirrors. Most are little things that don't warrant pictures but the rearview mirrors are a deviation from what is supplied in the kit. I didn't want to install the fender mirror because it needed holes drilled in the body and the mirror surface is a little small. I didn't want a $200 mirror either so I looked for something less expensive. I found these motorcycle ones for less than $20 a pair and thought I might make them work.
48575

I modified the first set I bought only to find I cut the shafts too short even though I measured twice so I ordered another set so I have $40 now invested.
48576

I actually had to cut the end of the shaft at 15* to get them to look right and get enough adjustment out of the mirror without interfering with the wind wings. I drill and tapped a #10-32 UNF hole in the end for mounting it to the windshield side bar.
48577

I marked the hole location on the side bar and drill the mounting hole. The DS is shown but the PS is similar.
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I also am not planning on using the dash mount rearview mirror because of the same reasons as the fender mount mirror. I purchased a Ford Rearview auto dimming mirror with compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink. I'll post some pictures of that installation later.

King,

I really like how you did these mirrors. I'm am going to try this on my build, thanks!

Mark

[BTHWarrior]

Do you still have the template or at least a paper one that I can use for my grommets? I am located in Lewisville so not to far from you. I am not quite there yet (cutting the holes) but I am always looking for better ways to do something before I get to that step.

Roy