Boz's 33

[Boz1911]

Got my car last Saturday. Been organizing and trying to be diligent about a parts inventory. Still couldn't help but work on her since I've been off a couple of days. Probably won't do a full-on build thread but I'll update as we go along. I had almost a full page of items not shipped but got most of them yesterday. Got the front suspension mostly done along with the rear (waiting on rear springs). Did quite a bit of panel work while I was waiting on parts. To day I tackled and I believe conquered the pedal box assembly. I was short a couple of items but once I understood the concept I was able to adapt and finish. 20049200502005120052

[ehansen007]

I would highly recommend a build thread. You'll look back on it and be amazed at all the pictures, comments, and help you'll get and you'll even be surprised by some of the things you said when trying to figure things out. I go back and look at mine from time to time.

[Boz1911]

Got a few things done today. Really wish I had my firewall and steering column. Ran some of the brake lines and finally decided to mount the front brakes low and avoid drilling the front center round bar between the shocks. I may have to make the last couple of pieces and since I have to mount the rear brakes I'll finish the rear brake lines then. Mounted the fuel tank but the pickup assembly seems a tad long?? Any ideas? Also loosely threw the power steering on since I know it will need to be clocked after the motor install.2008420085200862008720088

[Boz1911]

Damn , I need a firewall and steering column.......

[Boz1911]

Got the front wheels today and plumbed/mounted the fuel pump and fuel filter. Rear wheels won't be shipped until late next week. Already have the tires 285/30r20 rear, 245/35r18 front. Bought a tool to cut the braided hose with, sure wish I had it in the old days when I was drag racing. Haven't decided whether to go up the left frame rail or cut diagonally across the car. Either way I need to end up at the regulator which will be slightly offset to the passenger side on the firewall.

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[wallace18]

Nice looking wheels. You may want to mount that fuel pump with rubber isolaters. I had to redo mine. Way too noisey mounted right to the frame.

[Boz1911]

Nice looking wheels. You may want to mount that fuel pump with rubber isolaters. I had to redo mine. Way too noisey mounted right to the frame.

Thanks. I'll find some isolators today especially since it is right behind the driver.

[maczter]

Did you buy a cable cutter for the lines? It was a great investment for mine. Also, take a look at Koul Tools (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/koul-tools?tw=koul&sw=Koul%20Tools) for doing the ends, especially if you are doing them on the car not in a vice, they will save your fingers, and was money well spent in my opinion.

[riptide motorsport]

Congrats on the purchase ..................fantastic start!

[Boz1911]

Did you buy a cable cutter for the lines? It was a great investment for mine. Also, take a look at Koul Tools (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/koul-tools?tw=koul&sw=Koul%20Tools) for doing the ends, especially if you are doing them on the car not in a vice, they will save your fingers, and was money well spent in my opinion.

Wow, I hadn't even seen those, may be a future purchase for sure.
I bought the cable cutter tool and have been using a vice I bought at a yard sale. The vice has plastic V-shaped inserts that work perfectly. I was sort of dreading this job, all I could remember from the old days was using a hack saw, duct tape, a lot of cussing and some painful cuts.
I did run the fuel line up the inside frame rail on the drivers side but that is as far as I can go until the firewall arrives and I install the engine.
Also made and installed a pretty mount for the power steering module.

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[Boz1911]

Congrats on the purchase ..................fantastic start!

Thanks, been on vacation for a week, don't think I've had this much fun in a while. It's back to work tomorrow, where I'll be thinking of what I can accomplish next.
Since this is my first build I've been content with most of the parts supplied although I try to use cool hardware whenever possible. The build threads on these forums have been absolutely invaluable.

[Boz1911]

Good news, firewall and rear springs were shipped today. Maybe I'll at least have a "roller" next week. My rear wheels arrive tomorrow so I can mount the tires Saturday. Guess after I get the firewall I'll start the wiring. Any tips ??

[wallace18]

Plan out any modifications you want to the harness. Speakers, ect. And run the wires in the looms ahead of time.

[Boz1911]

Plan out any modifications you want to the harness. Speakers, ect. And run the wires in the looms ahead of time.

Good advice, I do plan on a radio and maybe a couple of speakers. I'm not a big music kind of guy so basic stuff will be all I need. Maybe I'll check into one of the classic - styled radios.

[Boz1911]

Got the rear wheels yesterday and mounted the tires today. For me I love them and think they have an old/new school blend. Also a pic of the power steering module bracket I made and a very useful new angle drill.

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[Boz1911]

Unpacked the wiring harness box today and read the directions several times, including the online version. Very difficult to get started as it seems the mounting bracket had the angle bent the wrong way. I checked every photo I could and finally just bent it the opposite way and mounted the harness. Loosely ran the rear and the front harnesses but everything else will have to wait until I get the firewall installed, which is due to arrive Tuesday. Mounted the horns in the front center location. Would have been a lot easier to drill a mounting hole without the shocks in the way. I used a 12 inch bit, but it took forever. Also trimmed the gauge panel and made sure they all fit, then installed the temp and oil sending units in the engine. This is a blast and actually no where near as difficult as I imagined.

[Boz1911]

Looked for 30 minutes for the headlight switch which I knew was here cause I saw the darn thing......

Gotta ask, why would it be packed in the radiator fan motor/coolant hose box????

That's okay, after today the only big boxes I have left contain two windshields and the radiator.

[Boz1911]

2043920440 Got my firewall, rear springs, and the fuel tank vent yesterday and since I was off today I feel like I got a lot done, including setting her on the ground for the first time. I did the 10-32 button head bolt thing to install the firewall and stole the idea of one set of bolts to overlap the top and bottom pieces. I mounted the master cylinder reservoir also. Anybody got an extra one their not using? I would feel more comfortable with separate reservoirs. My transmission will be here tomorrow so the next goal is to install the engine and trans. Even though I started the wiring harness I feel having the engine installed will dictate where a lot of stuff ends up and is routed. I also do not have my steering column yet.
My overall impression so far is the car is basically a 33 body sitting on a race-car chassis. Personally I think it's a great combo. The frame is a work of art and the majority of the parts are better than adequate. I wish there were a few less "imported" parts, but guess the cost would be higher. With the manual, online manual and the build threads things have been relatively easy so far. The build threads have saved me a lot of headaches and prevented some mistakes. I've been using upgraded hardware when I think it's needed but that's about it as far as "customizing" goes so far. My main goal is to build a good solid car to start with, I figure I can customize later on. I really hope I can do this again, I've learned a lot and enjoyed almost every minute.
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[68GT500MAN]

Looking like you are making great progress.

[Boz1911]

Looking like you are making great progress.

Thanks, even though she arrived less than three weeks ago, I had a week's vacation in there, so in actuality I have a good bit of time already invested. Today was a good photo day since this was the first day I could let her walk a little.

[Boz1911]

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FedEx was very good to me today and left me a brand new Tremec 600. I fitted the bellhousing. knowing it would very tight the first install. Hopefully it will be easier the second time.
One observation and one question. First, these things are heavy, or I'm gettin' old because I've been on my back and installed manual transmissions in the driveway by myself without too much strain. Of course that was 30 years ago. Second any suggestion for a shifter??

[esff32]

Hey Boz1911, i went with this item. It was just a replacement lever and i got a shift knob from Speeddawg. I think it puts the knob in a decent position and i believe that Tremec is already equipped with a short throw shifter. It was fairly inexpensive. You build is coming along nicely. Hope this helps.

Evan

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-5-0-Gold-Short-Replacement-Shifter-Handle-/181005490799?hash=item2a24c49a6f&item=181005490799&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b481/esff32/Factory%20Five%2033%20Build/556c3cf8edc68dd41c9c0ab0b2fbd7dd_zps87d7c64f.jpg

[Boz1911]

Well, got the engine and trans installed, got a very tight oil pan to cross bar clearance issue on the drivers side but I think I have a solution.
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Now the real work begins.....

[maczter]

Did you still need an extra reservoir?

[Boz1911]

Did you still need an extra reservoir?

Yes, I would prefer to have two on the car. Send me a message.

Thanks, Brian

[wallace18]

Boy! that is looking good! I like how you tie all the red together with the shocks, calipers, wires and coil.

[Boz1911]

Boy! that is looking good! I like how you tie all the red together with the shocks, calipers, wires and coil.

Thanks, you forgot about my roll around stool.

[Boz1911]

Installed the inner firewall and ignition box. Had quite a few things wired up then undid all of them to work on the tunnel. My tunnel doesn't want to fit flush on the right side so I need to figure out why. Any suggestions? Also ended up mounting my alternator upside down.

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[wallace18]

My firewall to tunnel on the right side was off 1/4" on the verticle part. I ended up making spacers out of scrap fiberglass I had. I just traced the outline of the tunnel and made spacers. I shifted my tunnel as far to the right as I could for extra foot room for the driver.

[Boz1911]

Figured out the tunnel problem. It wouldn't fit flush because the top left was hitting the fuse panel mount so the whole thing was cocked to the right. Not going to be a lot of foot clearance on the go pedal. I would like to keep the tunnel removable. Other than the few hard points to drill and tap, anyone have any ideas?

[wallace18]

I installed my tunnel with rivnuts so I can remove it if I want to easy.

[jayguy]

For gas pedal clearance, several builders have cut a relief into the side of the tunnel. I vaguely remember FF offering a kit to do that even, or maybe it was someone else.

[Boz1911]

For gas pedal clearance, several builders have cut a relief into the side of the tunnel. I vaguely remember FF offering a kit to do that even, or maybe it was someone else.

In the manual they show installing a piece of aluminum but I'm not sure I have that piece. I only have one unidentified part that may be that piece they are indicating. Regardless looks like I'll have to do something. I squeezed the left side of the tunnel in about a half an inch. Really can't go much further without interfering with the clutch fork.
Anyone have pics showing where they passed the main harnesses through the tunnel or firewall?

[Boz1911]

I installed my tunnel with rivnuts so I can remove it if I want to easy.

Even though I've always been a car guy I have never installed a rivnut, guess it's time to learn.

[maczter]

I could not find the instructions for the gun, so it took a ton of browsing on the web to figure out how to get it right.

[maczter]

Does anyone have pics of the relief they cut in?

[wallace18]

I cut the relief as per page 543 in the manual.

[Boz1911]

I cut the relief as per page 543 in the manual.

Did your kit have the aluminum piece included? I checked my parts list and there is nothing shown. I wonder if the tunnel has been changed, mine is the two piece unit and after shifting the left side I only have about 1/4 inch clearance to the shift fork. Just wondering if I could even get any more foot clearance??

[Olli]

Definitely make the tunnel removable. I did and I am glad that I did as I had to remove the trans twice already. It is easier to remove the trans from inside the car then pulling the engine /trans combo from the front..

That trans tunnel in your picture is something that I have never seen before. When did FFR start sending those out???


Olli

[Boz1911]

Got some stuff done today. Mounted the coolant reservoir, finished the trans tunnel. Mounted the grill first, then dismounted and reinstalled with the radiator, cooling fan and the radiator shroud. Learned how to use the rivnut tool. Pretty cool tool.

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[Boz1911]

Got a few things done today. Got a floor pan for the fuel tank area from one of the custom vendors (Kootenai). Obviously I had to remove the fuel tank which gave me some easier access to shore up a few items underneath that area. Sprayed the underside of the pan with undercoating. Reinstalling the fuel tank got very tight, so tight in fact I had to use a block of wood and a rather large hammer to reinstall. Used a valve cover grommet to protect the fuel and vent lines. Also UPS brought me a new starter and like everything else it didn't fit the first attempt. The good news though is you can rotate the nose on the starter and mount it in any position. Pretty cool.
Are you guys sealing the battery access panel or making it removable?

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[Boz1911]

I cut the relief as per page 543 in the manual.

Checking your build thread it looks like you have the two piece trans tunnel like mine. When I called FF tech about the aluminum part not with my kit or shown on the packing slip, they told me it is not needed with this tunnel. I can understand since I was able to move the left side of the tunnel over to within a 1/4 inch of the clutch fork. There really would be no need to add the panel except for possibly some clearance at the top.

[wallace18]

looking good! I made mine removable. But most likely will remove batt from underneath if needed.

[Boz1911]

looking good! I made mine removable. But most likely will remove batt from underneath if needed.

That's what I figured.

[Boz1911]

Got a few goodies in the mail today, mainly the driveshaft and the steering column. Also went to Summit and picked up my Odyssey battery and oil filter adapter. First on the install was the driveshaft. After removing the rubber plug from the Tremec trans and lubing the splines and seal the driveshaft fell in place. I did notice it wasn't straight in the tunnel so while I was there I just reached back and adjusted the track bar until it was centered at least by eye.
Next was the steering column, only problem there was the mounting bolts nearest the wheel end touch when fully tightened, a washer should take care of that. The column is a very nice piece.
Final item for the day was the oil filter adapter. Now I should be able to finish the power steering install this weekend.
Since the rivnut tool supplied with the kit has a 10-32 attachment I ordered some rivnuts from Jeg's to install the top of the trans tunnel and the battery access panel.
Since you guys don't know me I'll let you know I shoot USPSA competition hence I do a lot of ammo reloading. What's that got to do with anything you ask? Well, if you look at the picture with the carb you'll see an aluminum tube that will attach to the Kootenai throttle linkage. That tube is a primer tube from one of my reloading machines. :D
Hope you guys don't mind all the pictures, I just know the ones you posted were a great reference for me and if any of mine help someone that would be great.

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[Boz1911]

Spent all of yesterday morning installing the emergency brake system but it works great. The 10-32 rivnuts arrived so I finished making the trans tunnel cover removable. My shifter arrived also. It is a Joe's racing 8 incher. I thought that it would be on the short side but after installing and sitting in the car seems to be ideal for me.
I'm at the point where I understand what can be final installed so when I'm in those areas I tighten and double check everything.

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[wallace18]

Thanks for all the great photos. I like the reloading tube. Everything is looking great!

[Boz1911]

Thanks for all the great photos. I like the reloading tube. Everything is looking great!

Thanks, still waiting on exhaust parts and steering wheel. Wish I had the exhaust so I could install the interior panels for the last time. I installed insulation between the inner firewall and the engine side firewall wall then reinstalled the inner firewall for the last time yesterday. Figure getting one thing done at a time it will eventually come together.

[Boz1911]

A very productive 24 hours. Got the power steering installed, looks easier than it is. Also finished the last few steps needed to fire the engine and she sounds sweet. If I had my exhaust, steering wheel , and radiator adaptors, she's ready to go cart. I call every week to check status. The steering wheel is the only item being shipped at this point. I may go to Summit and just buy the radiator adaptors so I can run this sweet soundin' 408 some more. I'm not much of a drinker but I found a bottle of high end champagne in the fridge to celebrate. Also enclosed a pic of the brace I made for the clutch cable, not sure it's enough though. Here's a link to the crappy video I made of the engine running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JkU5-JObOs&feature=c4-overview&list=UUgA_Dnb4hms24nh1FBZvKPw

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[David Hodgkins]

Looking great Boz!

[Boz1911]

Looking great Boz!

Thanks, getting there one step at a time.

[Boz1911]

Since I started the engine I decided to make a punch list to make it go-kartable. I gave up on FF and went to Summit and picked up the radiator hose adapters and some discontinued billet hose end covers from Mr Gasket. They were only 7.00 each. Installed the radiator hoses, filled the trans with fluid, bled the brakes, and finally installed the throttle linkage. Waiting on some rod ends from Jegs to dress up the linkage. I used some stuff leftover to make it function for now. Thought my steering wheel would arrive today but no such luck. Car is loud but when I get the wheel I should be able to kart this baby.

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[esff32]

Looks awesome Boz, can't seem to get a free moment to work on mine. Looking forward to seeing some go kart video.

Evan

[wallace18]

Getting to gocart will be a fun time. I remember doing mine the first time. It was a hoot! Engine looks awesome!

[Boz1911]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RWTQ7bnUiA&feature=c4-overview&list=UUgA_Dnb4hms24nh1FBZvKPw

Her first steps, wifey says she's too loud to test drive down the street...........can you say difference of opinion?? She won't be home Wednesday.:cool:

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[Boz1911]

Guess I'm ready to mount the body so I couldn't do a whole lot today. Finished the cowl access panels, mounted the tail lights, mounted the fuel filler, did the final gauge layout and finally a little sanding on the body seams. Anyone know in the last pic whether I need to grind that overlap flat or plan on building it up?

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[wallace18]

If you mean the part that faces the front I sanded mine flat. The rear waterfall covers that area. On top the door goes in the small slot area. I hope that helps you out.

[Boz1911]

Got the body set on last night, now to get her all mounted up, then the doors, trunk, hood and side panels. But at least she's starting to look like a car. Sure did gain some garage space, temporarily that is...........

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[wallace18]

Wow, that is looking good! I like the gauge placement and shifter. Any idea what color or colors you are going to paint it?

[Boz1911]

Wow, that is looking good! I like the gauge placement and shifter. Any idea what color or colors you are going to paint it?

Thanks, I decided since this car is a blend of old and new school, I'd do an old school layout with the modern gauges.
Paint? That seems to be the question everyone wants an answer to. The real answer is I should know but I don't. I am pretty good mechanically but the creative side ..... not so much.
I've been looking at tons of color schemes and nothing hits the spot yet. I remember seeing a Harley paint job in a magazine that really hit my hot button, so I'll be searching through some old mags to see if I can find it and see if it might work.

[wallace18]

Thanks, I decided since this car is a blend of old and new school, I'd do an old school layout with the modern gauges.
Paint? That seems to be the question everyone wants an answer to. The real answer is I should know but I don't. I am pretty good mechanically but the creative side ..... not so much.
I've been looking at tons of color schemes and nothing hits the spot yet. I remember seeing a Harley paint job in a magazine that really hit my hot button, so I'll be searching through some old mags to see if I can find it and see if it might work.

My paint job idea came from my 2012 HD Ultra Limited. It was the same colors except shiny instead of the satin on my HR.

[Boz1911]

Didn't have a lot of time today but I did completely mount the body except the lower front extensions. I have a little grinding to do there. I was pretty amazed at how sturdy the body was after mounting it at the firewall, door sills, and rear. Fitted the passenger door and started mounting it. Seemed to go pretty smooth so maybe this won't take as long as I thought. At first glance fitting the hood appears to be a little scary, any tips out there?

[wallace18]

Trim it from all sides. Same with the doors and trunk. If you only trim one side you will have fitment problems. Tony at FFR confirmed this to me. I laid out each component in its place. Then I used 3/16" tape to give me my body gap. I then used a paint marker to mark how much I had to trim. Then I used a belt sander to get my gaps. I had to do a little at a time but it gave me great results. See the door videos in the 33 forum. They helped me a lot.

[Boz1911]

Thanks for the tips. It took me way longer than I expected but finally a functioning door.

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[Boz1911]

Been working like a dog on these damn doors. I watched Eric's videos consulted the online and paper manuals and they are stiil a PITA. I do have them both mounted and functioning but they both still need some minor tweaking. I finally had to move on to something else and got the hood fitting pretty well and also the trunk.

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[wallace18]

Been working like a dog on these damn doors. I watched Eric's videos consulted the online and paper manuals and they are stiil a PITA. I do have them both mounted and functioning but they both still need some minor tweaking. I finally had to move on to something else and got the hood fitting pretty well and also the trunk.

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I think my first door I had on and off about 25 times till I got it right. The second one went much faster. Yours looks good! The hood looks spot on, good job!

[Boz1911]

A couple of evenings and finally a functioning hood. Looks like I'll have to relocate the mounts for the struts since the hood does come off the body when popped and forward. Any suggestions? Also had to trim an inch or so off the prop rod to access it. I can't see why anyone wouldn't order the Kootenai hood pins and guides, worthwhile investment for sure.

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[Boz1911]

I think my first door I had on and off about 25 times till I got it right. The second one went much faster. Yours looks good! The hood looks spot on, good job!

It will be at least 25 times...............

[crspdsk8]

Just came across your build and you have made great progress! I get my kit in a few weeks and seeing your progress has boosted my confidence in my upcoming build! I am looking forward to following you as you work closer to finishing!

Charles

[Boz1911]

Just came across your build and you have made great progress! I get my kit in a few weeks and seeing your progress has boosted my confidence in my upcoming build! I am looking forward to following you as you work closer to finishing!

Charles

Thanks and congrats !!. I know I've become a bit obsessed with it but it's a ton of fun, The feeling you get when you get past a hurdle is very satisfying. With the manual, online manual and the build threads on here you should find all the answers you'll need. Just to get you started, a couple of tips on the front suspension. Order the ball joint boots from Summit, the number is listed in some of the build threads, much easier to install. Also I ordered a 1/16 NPT tap to thread the grease fitting holes in the control arm brackets. You can get one from Amazon. The so-called self-threading grease fittings gave me fits. Enjoy your new kit !!

[Boz1911]

Last night and this morning, got the windshield mounted (don't trust the gaskets) and the front lower cowl just about finished.

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[Boz1911]

I ended up moving the lower mounts for the hood struts down exactly one inch. This made all the difference in the world in hood operation. Here's a pic to show the difference in the mount locations.

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[Boz1911]

Any suggestions on what to do with the front brake flex hoses that have been mounted but now are going to interfere with mounting the side panels? I assume get to removing fiberglass until I get clearance?

[esff32]

Can you post some pics Boz. I would like to see where the clearance issues are, maybe i can help.

Evan

[Boz1911]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20071&d=1374949167

If you look at the brake hoses on Tom's car they exit about two inches higher than where mine will. Maybe he'll give me some insight as to where he mounted his because mine are a couple inches lower and pretty much match the manual installation. I hate to remove the flange on the the side panels to get clearance but I also don't want to have to disconnect the front brake hoses in order to remove the side panels. Also I would prefer to not redo all the front brake lines but I may have to.

[wallace18]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20071&d=1374949167

If you look at the brake hoses on Tom's car they exit about two inches higher than where mine will. Maybe he'll give me some insight as to where he mounted his because mine are a couple inches lower and pretty much match the manual installation. I hate to remove the flange on the the side panels to get clearance but I also don't want to have to disconnect the front brake hoses in order to remove the side panels. Also I would prefer to not redo all the front brake lines but I may have to.
I looked at mine, they are where the pictures on page 110 and 111 of the manual show. I am not sure why yours are giving you a problem. I was careful that they followed close to the suspension and stayed out of the way of the wheel. Maybe you just need to loosen and adjust some.

[Boz1911]

That may be the case, my mounts do angle inwards at the bottom which does make the hose come out lower. Mine are mounted with 10-32 bolts so at least it shouldn't be difficult to change.

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[Boz1911]

Finally some decent progress, right door is perfect, left door 99%. Got the trunk lid down far enough and fit properly also, helps it the hinge isn't hitting the third link cover box laying in the trunk area. Got the waterfall mounted up and the roll ball holes located and cut. Starting to look like a real car. Guess this week I'll tackle those side panels after some brake hose relocation. Almost finished with the carb linkage also. Actually sat in the car today with everything layed out and thankfully looks like there is plenty of room for me. I like the gauge layout I did, they are all nice and visible and the switches are within easy reach. The E-brake is a bit awkward to reach though. Clutch operation is much better with the body mounted also. I may still add some bracing when I remove the body for paint, now that I know where everything to be mounted is mounted. I'm open to any criticism, suggestions, mistakes, or ideas as I go along. I have certainly made a few goofs but try to fix those asap.

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[wallace18]

I think you are looking real good! You may want to rethink the armrest. Unless you have super long arms it is not very useable in the stock location. See my thread for what I did. Great job! keep up the good work.

[Boz1911]

I think you are looking real good! You may want to rethink the armrest. Unless you have super long arms it is not very useable in the stock location. See my thread for what I did. Great job! keep up the good work.

Thanks, means a lot coming from you. The arm rest didn't seem bad when I was in the car today but I of course saw the one you did and some modification may be coming. I am 6-2 and well over 1/8th of a ton so a compromise may be in order. When I installed the waterfall, I removed too much off the top so the surround upholstery sat too high. Since it and the armrest were going to need regluing any way I cut a 1/4 inch off the bottom. Now it fits well and there is more material to glue back in place. After being in the car today I was pleased I had enough foot room.

[esff32]

Looks awesome Boz, im jealous. I am currently fitting the trans tunnel, i have the old style that does not have the cutout along the top. I am having to trim quite a bit to get it to fit. I was wondering if you can post some pics of your tunnel and the throttle pedal area. I am concerned that the supplied pedal is going to be way too far away for me because it mounts to the lower toe board of the firewall. I may have to purchase a floor mount version unless i can figure something out. Thanks and again very nice job.

Evan

[Boz1911]

Looks awesome Boz, im jealous. I am currently fitting the trans tunnel, i have the old style that does not have the cutout along the top. I am having to trim quite a bit to get it to fit. I was wondering if you can post some pics of your tunnel and the throttle pedal area. I am concerned that the supplied pedal is going to be way too far away for me because it mounts to the lower toe board of the firewall. I may have to purchase a floor mount version unless i can figure something out. Thanks and again very nice job.

Evan

Thanks. I used 1 and 1/2 inch spacers to put my pedal even with the frame. The main reason for that was to make my linkage system work better. I believe the two piece tunnel is more forgiving than the old one which is why they don't supply the pedal box modification any more. I moved the left side of the tunnel to within a 1/4 inch of the clutch pivot for pedal clearance and it appears even with size 13 feet it's gonna be okay. Gotta be careful with the front mounting on the tunnel because you lose aluminum to mount to as you shift the tunnel. I'll do some pics this morning and post them tonight.

[Boz1911]

These are for Evan. Not sure if any of these help or not. My tunnel is mounted on the bottom to the floor panels with a couple of bolts in the frame. The front mounts are only on the lower firewall and the upper frame section, I didn't want any bolts protruding the through the firewall area that would be visible in the engine compartment. Seems very secure to me and I'll use either silicone or a weatherstrip during final assembly.

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[Boz1911]

Oh and a master switch..........wonder where I got that idea???
22136

[esff32]

Thank you very much for the photos Boz, they definitely helped. I spoke to Tony Zullo today from FFR, and he too had the old trans cover and he had to cut a ton out of it. He said the new one is much narrower and doesnt require as much alterations. You do some very nice work, im impressed with the level of detail.

I do like that location. �� Thanks again.

Evan

[Boz1911]

Just got the email, my exhaust has been shipped. Time to remove everything, install the exhaust and reinstall the interior for the last time. Bad thing is my weekend has been spoken for..........

[esff32]

Hey Boz, are you doing the rear exit or standard side?

[Boz1911]

Hey Boz, are you doing the rear exit or standard side?
Rear exhaust, got the spring special when I ordered the kit.

[esff32]

Hey Boz, just wondering how you like the Kootenai throttle linkage?

[Tim Whittaker]

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo39/6t5cobra/33ford/HPIM1107.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/6t5cobra/media/33ford/HPIM1107.jpg.html)

Boz,

I elected to go this route for the front brake lines. No hose flopping around and cleans things up a but.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley customs

[Boz1911]

Hey Boz, just wondering how you like the Kootenai throttle linkage?

The parts are gorgeous but I'm still not happy with the way I have it attached to the pedal yet. I like your pedal spacer by the way, nice work !!

[Boz1911]

I've gutted the interior and have been working on the exhaust in the little time I've had lately. I also abandoned the heat shield material idea I had originally planned on using under the floor pans. Doesn't feel like I've made much progress............

[Boz1911]

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo39/6t5cobra/33ford/HPIM1107.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/6t5cobra/media/33ford/HPIM1107.jpg.html)

Boz,

I elected to go this route for the front brake lines. No hose flopping around and cleans things up a but.



Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley customs

So you are using a very short flex line? What about at the caliper, another flex hose? Do you have a pic installed?

[Tim Whittaker]

Hi Boz,

That's correct. Two short stainless flex lines. Sorry, no picture yet.

I should have sent you a fork clevis with the throttle kit. That didn't work for you for the pedal to to firewall linkage ? Anything I can supply to make it work ? I'd be willing to build something at my expense to make it right for you.

Tim

[Boz1911]

Hi Boz,

That's correct. Two short stainless flex lines. Sorry, no picture yet.

I should have sent you a fork clevis with the throttle kit. That didn't work for you for the pedal to to firewall linkage ? Anything I can supply to make it work ? I'd be willing to build something at my expense to make it right for you.

Tim
Tim, the parts you sent are fine, just need work out a few kinks on my end without making ugly holes in the firewall.
Actually I need to order a couple more goodies from you.
I appreciate the offer though.

[Boz1911]

By the way, if anyone needs the side exit pipes they are welcome to them for the shipping costs.

[Boz1911]

Wow, what a long week. Got my exhaust last Friday but had to take my wife and sisters out of town last weekend so I've only had an hour here and there and this installation is something that asks for a good bit of time without interruption. Making both sides a mirror image of each other is not easy especially with the rear exit pipes. I really can't access/mount the rear hangers until I remove the trunk aluminum but I can easily position the tail pipes to match so I know I'm good there. The raw steel hangers got a coat of silver engine paint. The exhaust is really beautiful but those hangers were ugly. Also worked on the trunk latch. I had to use washers to get the latch bolt to clear but I have since picked one up at the hardware store that will work without the spacers. Trunk floor definitely needs reinforcement so I grabbed some 1/2 aluminum angle also for that task.

22445224462244722448

[Boz1911]

Is been nice to start installing the interior for the last time. Dressed up the e-brake handle and driveshaft while I had them out. The exhaust lookd great against the black underneath, so I'm paying attention to how everything looks under the car. Also I can do all the mounts for the wiring etc now that I know where the exhaust is located. First bolt I installed for the drivers seat hit directly on the front exhaust mount bolt. Thank goodness I was drilling a 1/8 starter hole.

225472254822549225502255122552

[esff32]

Looks awesome Boz, I'm sure you are getting anxious to get her on the road. Looking forward to seeing some video.

[Boz1911]

Looks awesome Boz, I'm sure you are getting anxious to get her on the road. Looking forward to seeing some video.

Thanks, the final assembly is much slower than the mockup. Trying to learn to be patient and make sure everything is just right.

[Boz1911]

Worked most of the day getting the car ready to start with the FFR exhaust installed, secured the tailpipes, reconnected the wiring, installed mounts for the e-brake cables and undercar wiring, etc. Finally cranked her up and I had the some awful exhaust leaks. I was very surprised as I really tightened it all pretty darn tight. Turned out the exhaust was fine it was the holes in the ends of the AFR heads for the thermactor system. Quick trip to the hardware store for some 5/8 x 16 bolts and bronze washers and now with the exception of a noisy release bearing she sounds awesome. Took some pics and video but I had the camera set up for macro mode and they suck. Anyone have thoughts on the release bearing noise. goes away when the clutch is depressed. Do I have something adjusted wrong?

[wallace18]

Worked most of the day getting the car ready to start with the FFR exhaust installed, secured the tailpipes, reconnected the wiring, installed mounts for the e-brake cables and undercar wiring, etc. Finally cranked her up and I had the some awful exhaust leaks. I was very surprised as I really tightened it all pretty darn tight. Turned out the exhaust was fine it was the holes in the ends of the AFR heads for the thermactor system. Quick trip to the hardware store for some 5/8 x 16 bolts and bronze washers and now with the exception of a noisy release bearing she sounds awesome. Took some pics and video but I had the camera set up for macro mode and they suck. Anyone have thoughts on the release bearing noise. goes away when the clutch is depressed. Do I have something adjusted wrong?

Boy, that sounds like it could be in the trans. The input shaft is still when the cluch is depressed. and rotates when released. If it was the release bearing it would make noise depressed. At least that is my experience with cars. Unless it is hitting something in the released mode. You may end up pulling the trans to find out. Sorry to hear about that.

[Boz1911]

Yeah I hope not, the trans is a brand new TKO600. If I don't find the source I'll at least drain the fluid and check for metal this weekend. Think I'll work on those side panels and roof to distract myself for a few days.

[Boz1911]

Been working on all the little details and mounting the side panels for a few days. I guess I need to accept I'm only a 5 or 6 at fiberglass work. My plan is to final fit the doors, hood, trunk, side panels, and top then remove them for primer. After any body work and primer they will all be mounted once last time to check fit and function, at which point the teardown and my attempt at painting will begin. I plan on building temporary spray booth like some I've seen on these forums.

22683226842268522686

[esff32]

Looking good Boz! Would you do me a favor when you have a chance and measure the overall height of your rear wheels. I was just curious how it compares with my 19's. Thank you for the help.

[Boz1911]

Thanks, rear looks to be about 26.5 overall diameter.

[esff32]

Thanks you Sir. Just checked my tire height on the rear 19s and it matches the height of your 20s. Still need to see if the 10.75" width is a problem. Thanks for the help once again.

[Boz1911]

Just doing miscellaneous stuff. Mounted the lights, they look cool. I guess you have to really decide whether or not you're gonna run the engine side panels all the time or not because disconnecting the headlight wiring would be a PITA. I've seen some clever ways around this but I'll just have to think about it for a while. I also think I'll attach the spacers inside the panels to the panels so at least aligned all the wiring, spacers, and mounting holes will be easier.

2277722778

[wallace18]

Just doing miscellaneous stuff. Mounted the lights, they look cool. I guess you have to really decide whether or not you're gonna run the engine side panels all the time or not because disconnecting the headlight wiring would be a PITA. I've seen some clever ways around this but I'll just have to think about it for a while. I also think I'll attach the spacers inside the panels to the panels so at least aligned all the wiring, spacers, and mounting holes will be easier.

2277722778

Looks real good. That is why I split my side panels for easy removal. Maybe FFR will address this in 33 MK2.LOL

[Boz1911]

I went and looked closely at your 33 Tom and now I see where you split the side panels. Obviously you did a great job because I hadn't noticed before you said anything.
On another note I know there may have been a redesign on the mufflers and since mine are relatively fresh has anybody noticed fiberglass coming out of the tailpipes?
My truck sits behind the 33 and it is covered in what appears to be fiberglass. I would assume it's muffler packing for noise? Heck there is so much when I run the car I rechecked to make sure I didn't mount them backwards. I had heard mention of previous mufflers blowing up so I wonder if they used less or looser packing? The car does seem to sound better the more I run it. ;)

[Boz1911]

Thanks you Sir. Just checked my tire height on the rear 19s and it matches the height of your 20s. Still need to see if the 10.75" width is a problem. Thanks for the help once again.

Looking at your pics and my car my guess is you're good to go. Carry on !!

[esff32]

Thanks Boz, I hope so. I've just been finishing up some small items, the ebrake being one of them. The linkage hits the bracket underneath, not sure if you had the same problem and what you did to fix it. I saw a thread where they just made a bracket extension and it solved the problem. Kind of a pain, figured something like this would have been dealt with by FFR. I also got my trans tunnel bolted in.

[Boz1911]

Thanks Boz, I hope so. I've just been finishing up some small items, the ebrake being one of them. The linkage hits the bracket underneath, not sure if you had the same problem and what you did to fix it. I saw a thread where they just made a bracket extension and it solved the problem. Kind of a pain, figured something like this would have been dealt with by FFR. I also got my trans tunnel bolted in.

Yes mine does hit also. Seems to work okay though. I still need to add a mount for the right cable and they seem to get a little looser as I use the e-brake more so I was going to address the interference issue a little later. I know that tunnel is more work than it first appears, drove me crazy for a few days. When you run your engine will you let me know if fiberglass comes out the exhaust? I imagine mine are newer but I just wonder if this is how they have always been.

[esff32]

I definitely will Boz, from what I have heard from the other members...it is common. Erik Hansen said his blew out every bit of fiberglass. Many people have gone to Magnaflows. If I dont like the sound after, I will probably switch down the road. Maybe your updated mufflers wont do it.

[Boz1911]

I definitely will Boz, from what I have heard from the other members...it is common. Erik Hansen said his blew out every bit of fiberglass. Many people have gone to Magnaflows. If I dont like the sound after, I will probably switch down the road. Maybe your updated mufflers wont do it.

Okay, at least now I know. The sound with the rear exit exhaust is pretty nice and seems to be getting better. Of course I'm getting the engine dialed in better also.

[mavisky]

Car looks good. What do you have planned for emissions come registration time with this motor setup? Would love to checkout the build sometime.

[Boz1911]

Car looks good. What do you have planned for emissions come registration time with this motor setup? Would love to checkout the build sometime.

From what I can tell it will be exempt, as a "hobby" car. I've printed the title application papers and need to get that going as well. Send me a PM with contact info, you're welcome to check it out.

[wallace18]

Looking good Boz. My car has got louder the more I drive it. I have resonators for tips and that seems to help some. Cruiseing it is fine IMO. But I like the sound when I get on it hard. LOL.

[Boz1911]

Looking good Boz. My car has got louder the more I drive it. I have resonators for tips and that seems to help some. Cruiseing it is fine IMO. But I like the sound when I get on it hard. LOL.

I actually like a little loud so fiberglass be gone !!. After hearing about everyone changing mufflers makes me wonder if they had the side or the rear exhaust??

[Boz1911]

She looks so sinister with the top on. I had to grind a bunch just to get the roof semi-close to fitting. There's more to do before I even consider drilling the first hole. I took the roadster windshied apart to polish the frame. Eventually I'll have it chromed.

229202292122922

[crspdsk8]

Looking really good Boz! Got a quick question, what length 10-32 screw did you use on your firewall?

[Boz1911]

Looking really good Boz! Got a quick question, what length 10-32 screw did you use on your firewall?

Thanks. I used 1/2 inch long on the inner / outer firewalls / forward mounts on the tunnel and floorpan to lower firewall. Most everywhere else I used 3/8 inch long. I bought 200 altogether and there aren't but a few left.

[kraftee]

Charles,

Make sure you go to a proper fastener supplier for those SS 10-32 Buttonhead screws. They're pretty cheap by the box of 100. If you buy them at Lowe's or Home Depot, you'll pay two bucks for a bag of three or four!

[crspdsk8]

Charles,

Make sure you go to a proper fastener supplier for those SS 10-32 Buttonhead screws. They're pretty cheap by the box of 100. If you buy them at Lowe's or Home Depot, you'll pay two bucks for a bag of three or four!
Thanks, I did. I picked up a box of 100 from Grainger for $18!

[Boz1911]

I have a Fastenal store right around the corner. They usually have what I need in bulk. I also have used a bunch of 1/4 x 3/4 button head bolts to replace some of the ugly ones supplied. I have tried to eliminate as many rivets and screw as possible, replacing them with bolts whenever possible. I'm also a stainless washer nut. That's just me, I guess.

[Boz1911]

I got the rear of the top mounted and now I'm working on the front mounts. I decided to use studs instead of bolts since I'll be switching back and forth between roadster and hardtop. Also working with Tim on the bump stop kits so I finally got off my butt and did a preliminary alignment. I forget how low this car is when she's off the jack stands.

23133231342313523136

[wallace18]

Looks good Boz. I used studs as well . Good call.

[esff32]

I am hopefully going to be at that phase soon so please educate me fellas. I have heard of using the studs before so are you installing a riv nut in the top and threading a stud into that. Then I would assume you have a nut on the underside of the access openings? Any help would be great, sorry to hijack your thread Boz. :)

[Boz1911]

That's why we have these threads. The way I'm doing it is studs in the body on the rear and studs in the hardtop in the front.

[esff32]

I would love to see pics whenever you get to that point Boz. I appreciate the help. Thanks

Evan

[Boz1911]

I would love to see pics whenever you get to that point Boz. I appreciate the help. Thanks

Evan

Will do, the studs I got at the hardware store. I figured out right away starting bolts in the holes you'll make in the rear of the hardtop was going to be a difficult task at best. Are you going to use the roadster windshield and the hardtop? If so you may want to check both before drilling any holes. My top is not very symmetrical compared to the windshield.

[esff32]

I am Boz, i like the look of both and hey you can't beat so cal weather when driving while a roadster. I will definietly take my time measuring before drilling anything.

[Boz1911]

Body work is boring, plus work your butt off with little to show. Which is why I haven't posted lately.
While bored I went and bought this:

23633

2003 Honda CBR1100XX Blackbird.

[wallace18]

Body work is boring, plus work your butt off with little to show. Which is why I haven't posted lately.
While bored I went and bought this:

23633

2003 Honda CBR1100XX Blackbird.

Nothing boring about that bike. Be safe and have fun. I can tell you there is nothing boring about driving your 33 when done. I get a adreniline rush avery time I drive mine. Hard to drive slow though.

[Boz1911]

Another new toy, one badass buffer: 24245 that does stuff like this on stainless steel: 24246

Also got the bump steer kit installed:24247

Just about there on the throttle linkage: 24249

And then of course, filling, sanding, repeat:24248

For those running rear exhaust, I noticed my right side e-brake cable too near the exhaust so I made a couple of brackets to keep it clear. I had already made a bracket for the left side but it was never close to the tailpipe, just needed some support. I also installed studs on my Odyssey battery and incorporated a lead for a battery maintainer. Right now I have that lead going into the trunk until I figure out where a good final location will be.

[Boz1911]

Oh, while I'm thinking about it, if you plan on putting a fuel pressure gauge on the engine like I did and you're running a boatload of cam like I am, I suggest getting a liquid filled gauge.....

[myjones]

Boz
How far did the bump kit raise the end of the rack from it's original position?

I'm still trying to figure out why no one has swapped the links side to side to reduce the
height of those spacers. All that's needed is to add a small chamfer to that link where it
touches the spindle so it will bolt on the other way and greatly reduce the drop in it.

Yes you would still drill out the taper because it's upside down now but you drill it anyway
for the bump kit
Thanks
Dale

[Tim Whittaker]

My bump steering kit doesn't require you drill the control arm . The stud has a tapered end to it. The key here is to actually measure the bump steer as ride height will have some influence as well. Once it has been measured with the ride height locked in, a spacer could be machined to eliminate the stack of spacers with a single sleeve.

The production version of my kit has a slightly longer barrel for deeper thread engagement to the inner tie rod.

As with Dale's method of swapping the arms from side to side, a shorter sleeve could be used and a bump steer stud with a straight through bolt rather than the tapered end stud.

[esff32]

Where did you get the wheel covers Boz, thats nice to avoid thrashing them while doing bodywork? Some useful info I got from Tim Whittaker, make sure you sand the fused panel seams below the level of the fiberglass, then fill them to avoid seeing them after the body is painted. Give him a call, he can explain it better than I. It would suck to go through all that work and still see the seams. Looking good bro!

Oh..on a side note about the fuel pressure gauge. I too have one and it is liquid filled. A good friend of mine who's a motor head told me that liquid filled gauges often cause a lot of problems. Example, when I fired up my motor, I had the gauge set to about 5-6 psi. Shortly after running for a while, it was up to 9 psi. He walked over and let a bit of oil out and the gauge returned to 5-6 psi. He told me that the liquid in the gauge will give you a false reading. Why most fuel pressure gauges are liquid filled if this is the case, I'm not too sure. Maybe someone else has an explanation. I drained all the oil from the gauge and haven't had a problem.

[Boz1911]

Where did you get the wheel covers Boz, thats nice to avoid thrashing them while doing bodywork? Some useful info I got from Tim Whittaker, make sure you sand the fused panel seams below the level of the fiberglass, then fill them to avoid seeing them after the body is painted. Give him a call, he can explain it better than I. It would suck to go through all that work and still see the seams. Looking good bro!

Oh..on a side note about the fuel pressure gauge. I too have one and it is liquid filled. A good friend of mine who's a motor head told me that liquid filled gauges often cause a lot of problems. Example, when I fired up my motor, I had the gauge set to about 5-6 psi. Shortly after running for a while, it was up to 9 psi. He walked over and let a bit of oil out and the gauge returned to 5-6 psi. He told me that the liquid in the gauge will give you a false reading. Why most fuel pressure gauges are liquid filled if this is the case, I'm not too sure. Maybe someone else has an explanation. I drained all the oil from the gauge and haven't had a problem.

Yeah I've read that also but the standard gauge bounces so hard (Holley) you can't read it all when it's running. I'm also running a lot of cam and the idle is pretty rough.
Got the wheel covers from the Matco man, they had a special this month where you purchase a "x" stand and get the covers free. They don't fit 20's but it should help some. Could just use a trash bag, I guess.
As far as the seams, I did sand/grind down below the surface. I plan to use the feather fill primer. Wanted to get as much of the filler stuff done so it will have more time to cure prior to doing any primer or paint.

[Boz1911]

Boz
How far did the bump kit raise the end of the rack from it's original position?

I'm still trying to figure out why no one has swapped the links side to side to reduce the
height of those spacers. All that's needed is to add a small chamfer to that link where it
touches the spindle so it will bolt on the other way and greatly reduce the drop in it.

Yes you would still drill out the taper because it's upside down now but you drill it anyway
for the bump kit
Thanks
Dale

I won't know the final measurements until she's down on the ground and I take it to work for the alignment. I'll work out the spacer or spacers then.

[Boz1911]

Thinking about adding a video upgrade to the car. Any thoughts?? I believe I'll need a digital antenna.

24258

[Tim Whittaker]

You might try a search. I think several of the GTM guys have installed screens for back up cameras. I assume yours would be a back up camera ?

[Boz1911]

Guess nobody thought my 1960 12v portable TV upgrade was funny..............Anyway Evan wanted a pic of the trunk reinforcement for the latch. Just 1/2 angle with a 3/8 box piece tying in the trunk floor, 1/2 angle and the lower section of the latch. Between the trunk glass and the upper part of the latch I added a 17-18 inch piece of 1/8" flat stock. I know I'll have to drill the rivets out to remove the latch prior to removing the body which is why I just used 1/8 rivets for now. I'll reinstall with 3/16 rivets. I plan on adding some more of the channel stock from the box outward when I remove the tailpipes.

2438324384

[esff32]

Thanks for the pics Boz! I did think your tv was pretty funny. You should mount it right next to the boom box. Haha

BTW...did you have your trunk sheet metal in when you first fit the body or did you fit it then put the sheet metal in after?

[Tim Whittaker]

LOL !!! I'll have to look closer next time, I thought it was a back up camera LCD !!!!! :)

[Boz1911]

Thanks for the pics Boz! I did think your tv was pretty funny. You should mount it right next to the boom box. Haha

BTW...did you have your trunk sheet metal in when you first fit the body or did you fit it then put the sheet metal in after?

I had it fitted but it's easier to install the body without the sides or the rear lower section. Biggest thing when installing the body is getting it over the door brackets, install it over one bracket at a time. Also my body had some excess glass around the firewall surround, make sure it is smooth all the way around before attempting to install. I only had to remove a minor amount from the right side of the firewall for a decent fit. Other than that she lined up pretty good. The body should be even with the frame on the bottom. It's amazing how sturdy it gets with just a few bolts in place.

[esff32]

Thanks bud, wish me luck. Hopefully it will be a pretty straight forward process. Merry Christmas to you and yours!

[Boz1911]

Merry Christmas to you, your family and all the great forum members. Stole this idea from Tom:

Top removal tool:

24419

Now just gotta move the car to mount to the ceiling. I used 3/4 black pipe and some threaded eye bolts. Allows me to move the hoist a few feet side to side.

[Boz1911]

Got the car off the stands and mounted the hoist, other than an extension cord the right length looks this will work out well.

24712

[Boz1911]

I'm tired of sanding....dammit. I've removed all the panels and sanded/filled each one inside and out. Just have the outside of the roof and the waterfall next. Then it will be body off time which is really gonna kill my work space. But after I finish the 33 Hot Rod this will be my next project, a 1964 Fairlane 500. Picked her up yesterday and she ain't too bad at all. I'm thinking 347 stroker, 4-speed, and Thunderbolt hood, bumpers, fenders, and deck lid. All in fiberglass of course. This car now is a 289, three on the tree, for those that know what that means......

2486024861248622486324864

[sheephearder]

Love it! I wish I had my first ford. '67 fairlane, candy apple red with a black vinal top and 289ho with 3 on the tree.

[Boz1911]

Well everything but the body (most of it though) is finally sanded inside and out. Went ahead and installed the seat belts today and did some cleaning up. Since I got my new buffer every stainless bolt now gets polished before reassembly. Next step is to prime everything and do a final fit, then off with the body and get it primed and painted.

249452494624947

[esff32]

Looks great Boz! Hopefully I am going to start fitting the doors this week. Hope all is well.

Evan

[Boz1911]

Good luck with the doors, my right door is great, the left door still needs more work

[Boz1911]

Just realized Evan you can see the studs sticking up from the body through the top in the second picture in post #153. The studs will be mounted in the top on the front part below the windshield.

Has anyone used the crotch belt? If so is there a decent place to mount it? I plan to paint the waterfall so I can see some trim where the shoulder belts come through is really needed. Any good ideas?

[Tim Whittaker]

There are some defroster vents out there that are pretty nice looking. I used them for the shoulder belt trim on the waterfall exit area.


http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo39/6t5cobra/33ford/HPIM0906.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/user/6t5cobra/media/33ford/HPIM0906.jpg.html)

I just cut the center bar out with a dremel tool. Cheap too.

[narkosys]

You could almost use those vents as a 'neck scarf' for cruising on those cooler days.

N

[Tim Whittaker]

I'm not into womens clothing, so I guess I don't get the comment about the "neck scarf" ......

[esff32]

Just realized Evan you can see the studs sticking up from the body through the top in the second picture in post #153. The studs will be mounted in the top on the front part below the windshield.

Has anyone used the crotch belt? If so is there a decent place to mount it? I plan to paint the waterfall so I can see some trim where the shoulder belts come through is really needed. Any good ideas?

I saw that Boz. So those studs are threaded? What covers the holes in the body when the hardtop is off?

Can you share the link to those vents Tim...sorry for the thread hijack Boz. :rolleyes:

[narkosys]

the neck scarf is found on Mercedes convertibles. It is basicly a vent installed in the seats which blows hot air onto the back of your neck keeping it warm and in turn more comfortable when driving on colder days.

edit: my mistake. they call it the Air Scarf (http://techcenter.mercedes-benz.com/en_CA/airscarf/detail.html).

P

[Boz1911]

Evan the studs just screw out then the upholstered surround will cover the holes.

How did I know Tim would have a great idea. Thanks

[Tim Whittaker]

Sachse Hot Rod parts. Pg. # 129 on their online catalog.

narkosys ...... got me thinking now ........

[esff32]

Thanks Tim!

[Boz1911]

Well decided to purchase some aluminum and a brake to make some needed components for the rod. I spent over an hour looking for aluminum yesterday. You would think as big as Atlanta is everyone would have some. Not! Then a flashbulb went off and I remembered we had an aircraft supply place here in town, Aircraft spruce and specialty. Alas they had everything I needed plus a host of other goodies that will be useful. To top it off they're not five minutes from my house. Made a couple of heat shields for the mufflers to get my feet wet. I polished the muffler side as Eric suggested to reflect some of the heat. For anyone building a 33 and using the supplied exhaust be aware the floorboards get super hot, I hope these help some.
25014

[esff32]

I made the same thing for mine too Boz. In the short time I have had it running, it has made a huge difference. I was able to put my bare hand on the sheet metal above the muffler after it had been running for about 40 minutes. I took mine and had them ceramic coated. Looks great.

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b481/esff32/Factory%20Five%2033%20Build/c364c0b46ae10c8287116d97d9a6777f_zpsa8b36f2d.jpg

[maczter]

Would you mind sharing the size specs on these? I am not buying a brake but I think I can do it on bench with clamps and a 2x4.

[Tim Whittaker]

Bummer Boz ..... You're going to need another $10K to finish the car now. I get all my materials from Aircraft Spruce and I see stuff on almost every page of their 1"+ thick catalog that I really need .....:)
Great source for Clekos, aluminum, glass cloth, resin and everything in between. I could probably have afforded to buy another 300 Hp for my 33 if I lived as close to them as you do and didn't have to pay all the shipping I do for parts and materials.

[Boz1911]

Would you mind sharing the size specs on these? I am not buying a brake but I think I can do it on bench with clamps and a 2x4.

I used the muffler dimensions plus 1 1/2 inches on each side. No room on mine to add any extra to the length. My muffler is 8 x 13.5 so the panels are 11 x 13.75 with the angles being 1.5 inches each side. Material is .063 6061.

Sorry Evan, should have credited you for the idea. I thought I would get by without but there is no way, those floorboards were getting damn hot after running for a while.

Yes, Tim I brought the catalogue home with me. I also picked up some fiberglass and heat shrink tubing while I was there. They are going to be a handy source and the prices are reasonable.

[esff32]

No problem, I got the idea from Erik, thats the best part about this forum.

[rcotner]

Evan, Boz, do you guys plan to use spacers to create a gap between the heat shields and car frame below the floor panels? Seems that shield to frame contact might conduct heat to the floor. Are you planning the same type of shields over the cats?

Thanks for the info, Ray

[Boz1911]

Evan, Boz, do you guys plan to use spacers to create a gap between the heat shields and car frame below the floor panels? Seems that shield to frame contact might conduct heat to the floor. Are you planning the same type of shields over the cats?

Thanks for the info, Ray

Mine are bolted directly to the floor boards for now. I thought about using a washer or two to create an air gap but then I thought about the crap that could get in that gap. So for now I'm gonna try them as is. I can always add the gap if needed later on. My car has no cat's but if it did I sure as heck would make some shields.

[esff32]

PM sent Ray, with new pics

[Boz1911]

Evan did you space the shield away from the floorboard? Ran the car yesterday, the floorboards are definately cooler but still get pretty warm. This 408 is making some good ponies.

[esff32]

Nice, I love driving my car and it isn't even done. Wheres the video...I've been waiting. ;)I used riv nuts but flipped them over and used the squashed backside as the spacer. I want to say it gives about a 1/4" gap between the two. It should be enough airflow to make a difference. I ran the car for about 30 minutes without driving and I could put my hand on the bare sheet metal without a problem. I used SS button heads to anchor them from the inside.

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b481/esff32/Factory%20Five%2033%20Build/c1d9f995d3de192c06580c7bcce28c65_zps209c4b42.jpg

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b481/esff32/Factory%20Five%2033%20Build/b3499869617dcb491a6a95b22c7d49f0_zps0cc3bf5a.jpg

[Boz1911]

Little thing but now with the aircraft supply so close, I picked up some aluminum tubing and made a polished PCV tube.

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Oh, on another note, I always wanted to learn how to weld. I know an older gentleman that owns a steel building company and he graciously offered to teach me. Wednesday morning he gave me a lesson and I practiced with a stick welder for a couple of hours. I really enjoy learning a new skill and he has plenty of scrap to practice on, not to mention the Mig and Tig welders he has. Tomorrow going back for another lesson. :D

[TigerBill]

My tunnel (kit no. 522) is like Boz's. I just cut the connector piece at the top next to the fire wall. Then you can squeeze the tunnel in and take out several inches of width. Mine is just about as narrow as the cutout in the firewall now. So I couldn't go anymore if I wanted to. However I have a fairly comfortable amount of room for my pedal (it came with my LS3 package and us hung from the pedal box above).

[esff32]

Little thing but now with the aircraft supply so close, I picked up some aluminum tubing and made a polished PCV tube.

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Oh, on another note, I always wanted to learn how to weld. I know an older gentleman that owns a steel building company and he graciously offered to teach me. Wednesday morning he gave me a lesson and I practiced with a stick welder for a couple of hours. I really enjoy learning a new skill and he has plenty of scrap to practice on, not to mention the Mig and Tig welders he has. Tomorrow going back for another lesson. :D

Looks good Boz. Welding is one of those skills that is invaluable. I used to work for a mechanical effects company that did work for movies, commercials, and theme parks before I got hired with the fire dept. I learned how to mig and tig weld as well as a host of other fabrication skills. I currently own a Miller mig welder with a spool gun to weld aluminum. You are only limited by your imagination.

[Boz1911]

Spent the last few days remaking my battery cables. I have three hot cables, one from battery to master switch, one from switch to solenoid, one from solenoid to starter. I used welding cable and solid copper lugs. Got some nice heat shrink from aircraft supply that dressed them all up pretty. With our cold azz weather lately looks there has been no hope of shooting any primer so I started on my console and working on ideas for the console. Got the storage area under the armrest laid out and in place, waiting to see if some more ideas pop up in Evan's thread, so far I like 33 machines layout, just got to have a cup holder or two.;)
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[esff32]

Hey Boz, can you take a few more detailed pics of the console inside and out and post them. I'm curious as to how you went about making it. One of the photos came out a bit fuzzy. Thanks for the help bro.

[bbksv]

How do you like the spool gun? I want to start welding and trying to figure out if I should get a mig with a spool gun or get a tig and plasma cutter as well.

[Boz1911]

How do you like the spool gun? I want to start welding and trying to figure out if I should get a mig with a spool gun or get a tig and plasma cutter as well.

Haven't used a spool gun yet but from what I've seen and watched for aluminum Tig is the way to go for appearance. I'm going to buy a Miller Mig first then later a Tig machine.

Evan the console is just two 18+inch x 3.5 inch pans (3/4 inch brakes all around) joined with a flat piece of stock at each end. After I hinge it I'll rivet it to the trans tunnel and to the rear. I made the console slightly narrower (1/4 inch)than the tunnel and will probably narrow the pad also because of seat interference. Thanks for the links by the way, some cool items there............you seem to always be forcing me to spend more money.:rolleyes:

[esff32]

Thanks Boz, I'm happy anytime I can spend someone else's money. The Miller spoolgun I have works very well. Aluminum can be a bit tedious only because the material must be extremely clean. The weld locations have to be brushed with a stainless steel brush and thoroughly cleaned with acetone. But it does weld very well and the results look awesome.

[Boz1911]

Since I'm more or less waiting on the weather to get started priming and painting I went ahead and made the drivetrain purchase for the 64 Fairlane. 460 big block motor to be stroked to 521CI and C-6 auto, that way my wife can drive it. ;)

[esff32]

That will haul some groceries in a hurry! :cool:

[Boz1911]

Still finishing some little items like final mounting the hood release cable, but there's not much to do until I get some painting weather. I was going to drive the car around the neighborhood yesterday but limited the driving to up and down the driveway for a couple of reasons. One, the manual brakes require a lot of force or they need some break in, either way I need to get used to them. Second, the go pedal needs to be moved further away from the stop pedal. If I just stop by instinct I hit both pedals. Also I need to raise the car a bit, my oil pan is the lowest part and my driveway is fairly steep. Also I need to make a decision on rear view mirrors, the car is not easy to see out of.

[wallace18]

Still finishing some little items like final mounting the hood release cable, but there's not much to do until I get some painting weather. I was going to drive the car around the neighborhood yesterday but limited the driving to up and down the driveway for a couple of reasons. One, the manual brakes require a lot of force or they need some break in, either way I need to get used to them. Second, the go pedal needs to be moved further away from the stop pedal. If I just stop by instinct I hit both pedals. Also I need to raise the car a bit, my oil pan is the lowest part and my driveway is fairly steep. Also I need to make a decision on rear view mirrors, the car is not easy to see out of.

Get the convex mirrors from Napa for the side ones in the kit. They really help with seeing behind you. Check the thread on this subject .

[Boz1911]

Thanks, Tom, probably going with a different mirror that the ones supplied.
A few pics of my baby in the sun for the first time.

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[EBarnes]

Hey Brian... getting back to working on my coupe and caught up with your progress. NICE! Looks like the weather is going to improve over the next week or so. I'd love to come see your project.
Eric

[Rod Shop]

your pictures have got me pumped up to get my car, I just ordered it two weeks ago, you have answered some questions I have had,good luck

[Boz1911]

Hey Brian... getting back to working on my coupe and caught up with your progress. NICE! Looks like the weather is going to improve over the next week or so. I'd love to come see your project.
Eric

Just give me a call, I can't wait for some decent weather !!

[Boz1911]

your pictures have got me pumped up to get my car, I just ordered it two weeks ago, you have answered some questions I have had,good luck

Congrats!! It's a good idea to page through the build threads, they are extremely helpful. Everyone solves problems in their own way but that is part of the fun. I feel like I'm pretty good mechanically but I'm not trying to go overboard on the custom stuff, just want a good, solid driving car that I can modify any way I want to later. Planning ahead can really save you some money if you shop wisely. For example, I'm building 557CI engine for my 64 Fairlane and by using CL and E-bay, etc I should have it built for about half of what I put in the 33's 408. Which by the way is too much power for this car. If I had it to do over probably would have gone with a 302 based engine. Good luck, I know the anticipation is awesome!!

[Rod Shop]

stainless fasteners are good, I used them almost everywhere i could in my 34 ford sedan when I built it back in '78, & '79 it was finished in '80 for the street nationals, the car now has 114,069 miles on it, still have my T-bucket that was at the first street rod nats in Peoria' Il in 1970. Your car and garage looks good!!my wife noticed your garage when i showed her some pictures of your car!!

[Boz1911]

A week or so ago I was planning on some neighborhood driving to do some shakedown but before I got out of the driveway I realized several issues that have now been addressed.
First: The car seemed to low and my driveway is pretty steep so I adjusted the ride height 1.25 inches above what the manual shows. My biggest concern is my oil pan hangs an inch or so below the frame.
Second: The go and whoa pedals were too close, when I went to apply the brakes my fat foot was hitting the go pedal. A new lower and further right bracket for the go pedal solved that problem.
Third: The car is hard to see out of and I had no outside mirrors so I added these for now.2659526596. I may change the brackets but for now they'll suffice.
Fourth: The drivers door was very difficult to open from the inside. After securing everything and readjusting for the 500th time the door fits and opens with just a finger.

Perhaps if this weekend is nice I'll move the Fairlane and do a little neighborhood terrorizing.

[rcotner]

Boz, if only I were as far along. I dream of the day I can pull out of the garage shake out stuff! Great job!

[Boz1911]

Boz, if only I were as far along. I dream of the day I can pull out of the garage shake out stuff! Great job!
Thanks.
Seems like things are just creeping along at the moment waiting on some paint weather. Oh also put down the sound/heat barrier on the floorboards and lower firewall. Made a huge difference in the cockpit heat.


I have found the doors to be by far the biggest PITA by far on this entire car so here's a tip that helped me finally get the doors perfect. Make sure the bolts that hold the latch bracket can move freely horizontally. Mine would lock down and wouldn't budge in the slots. Once I could move the door freely I was able to center it up nicely.

[Tim Whittaker]

Boz,

If you find any slop in the hinges, I get good reports on the delrin bushings.

[Boz1911]

Didn't know everyone one be driving around my neighborhood this afternoon and my wife is no photographer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB6mRbBYlYw&list=UUgA_Dnb4hms24nh1FBZvKPw&feature=c4-overview

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6ORjidc69w&list=UUgA_Dnb4hms24nh1FBZvKPw&index=3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En5AvECxIhA&list=UUgA_Dnb4hms24nh1FBZvKPw&index=2

[esff32]

Sounds great Boz, I can't believe you had the patience to wait so long to drive it. Very nice.

[MT-ED]

Loooooooove that idle! Sounds nasty exactly like it should do :cool:

[Boz1911]

Sounds great Boz, I can't believe you had the patience to wait so long to drive it. Very nice.

Thanks Evan, I knew she was drivable, just wanted to go slow. I will admit I have a steering issue after this jaunt. Seems with all the bump steer install, uninstall, reinstall the steering is a turn off. she turns great to the right but not so much to the left. I'll fix that in the morning. And I did have an adult beverage after being on the road finally. Wifey wanted to know if it was always going to be that loud and I assured her it wouldn't after she settled down a bit...........:rolleyes:

[Boz1911]

Loooooooove that idle! Sounds nasty exactly like it should do :cool:

Thanks, it's exactly what I was looking for too. She's got more cam in her than the 557 I'm building for the Fairlane.

[wallace18]

Wow! that sure does sound nasty. Nothing like driving the 33 after all that work.

[Boz1911]

Wow! that sure does sound nasty. Nothing like driving the 33 after all that work.

Thanks Tom, any thoughts on the ride height? She's exactly one inch above the manual. Just wondering how the height and drivability turned out with yours.

[wallace18]

Thanks Tom, any thoughts on the ride height? She's exactly one inch above the manual. Just wondering how the height and drivability turned out with yours.

I set mine at 5" and have had no problems at all. The 33 corners like a go-cart. I enjoy seeing your progress.

[Tim Whittaker]

Once properly aligned, I'd be curious how the bump kit worked out for you.

[Boz1911]

Once properly aligned, I'd be curious how the bump kit worked out for you.

I'll let you know but at this point using all the spacers may be the way to go, just eyeballing it when I jack the car up. The alignment machine will tell the story later.

[Boz1911]

I swore I'd get something primed today, and the weather finally cooperated a bit.

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[esff32]

Lookin' good Boz! What color are you going with?

[Boz1911]

Lookin' good Boz! What color are you going with?

Grey primer, can't you tell? :p

Seriously, probably bright silver on the bottom, dark grey (gunmetal) on the upper with some type of red-orange stripe or graphic as an divider.

By the way I added several layers of fiberglass strips and filler to the rear mounting area of the hardtop to get it to fit better.

[esff32]

That sounds like a nice combo, can't wait to see it.

Did you have to add any reinforcement to the front mounting area of the hardtop? Although there is metal in there, the fiberglass has a seam or gap in the middle where the riv nuts would go. The metal sits above this area and it looks like the fiberglass needs to be trimmed back a bit in order for the rivnut to sit flat. If you have any photos of that area, that would be helpful. Thanks for the update.

Evan

[Boz1911]

Evan I did add some steel reinforced epoxy for the rivnuts. I'm not sure what part your referring to about trimming. I get you some pics when I pop the top again this week.
The primer reveals a lot of tiny imperfections that I mark with tape as I see them. I'm getting the body unbolted and hope to have it off sometime this week.

[Boz1911]

Well went from terrorizing the neighbors a week and a half ago to this this afternoon.

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[Boz1911]

I "repurposed" a discarded display from my local Kroger supermarket into my body cart. Works great for my car anyway.

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[Boz1911]

Got the body primed and filled then primed again then sanded again.................I need stock in 3M. Then got some silver on her.

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[rcotner]

Looks great Boz! Did you do the painting in your garage or shop? Do you have some sort of paint booth?

[Boz1911]

Looks great Boz! Did you do the painting in your garage or shop? Do you have some sort of paint booth?

Most of it has been done in the driveway but I'll be using the garage for the clear. I know it won't be a 5-10k show paint job but at least I can say I tried. My original goal was to build a car from the ground up testing any skills I have or don't have including paint. Other than lifting the body on and off no one else has touched this since day one.

[wallace18]

Nice job! I do not have the skills to paint. You should be proud of what you have done so far.

[Boz1911]

Thanks Tom, that means a lot to me.

Here's a few with the gunmetal grey upper. I'm toying with either red or orange (to match my Challenger) pin striping on the color break.

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[rcotner]

That looks really good!! My favorite car color is Ford race red which is kind of an orangeish red. My profile picture is my boss 302 which is black and ford race red (my '33 frame is also race red). That is a great color combination. I am planning on using flat black lower and race red upper with a pewter stripe in the middle. I really look forward to seeing your car finished!!

[H R Lucky]

Nice job BOZ.

[Boz1911]

Thanks guys. Made a few mistakes but my wife reminded me that I had never painted a car before so that helps when I do goof up. One thing I do like is the Dekups throw away paint liners, they make cleanup a whole lot easier. I didn't get to paint the top, just no physical way to do it in my limited space but the paint for the upper was already reduced so as long as I do the same number of coats it should match okay. Doesn't look like we'll be having good weather for a while so probably work on the chassis/interior details.

[esff32]

Love the two tone Boz. Nicely done!

[MPTech]

Those paint colors really look good together and a red or orange pin-stripe will set them off even better.
Nice job!

[Boz1911]

Thanks again guys. The creative part is not my specialty but I did hear somewhere that a light color will add depth to the body lines because it creates a shadow effect which is why I went with a really bright silver up to and above the body lines. My cart worked well except the underside of the dash is not accessible as it is. Guess I'll just jack it up and touch it up later. I'd like to get her cleared within a few weeks but it'll take a couple of sessions considering I have to do all the inside stuff first then do the exterior. I have a guy that will buff the car when I'm finished, supposedly he's really good and loves old cars.
Now that some of the parts are finished I've been putting them in the house to avoid damage, luckily wifey hasn't said anything yet......

[Boz1911]

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Sorry for the delay Evan, this top is cumbersome, so I usually wait for help moving or flipping it. I sent you a PM of how I was able to get these installed, hope it helps.

[bbksv]

Depending on the paint you might have a certain window that you have to clear coat in..you might want to check it out...

[Boz1911]

Depending on the paint you might have a certain window that you have to clear coat in..you might want to check it out...

I won't make that window. I'll actually be sanding the entire car once again with 6-800 prior to clear coat.

[erlihemi]

Boz, Those colors look great. I vote for matching the challenger with a race hemi orange accent line:)

[Boz1911]

Boz, Those colors look great. I vote for matching the challenger with a race hemi orange accent line:)

hmmm... Hemi orange, how would I figure you'd vote for that ;)

[Boz1911]

Sometimes you make a mistake that won't really affect anything in the long run but I had one that really bothered me. Even though I am planning on some polished covers for my door striker bolts the drivers door hole had become a little large with the several month struggle I had making that door work perfectly. Note the size difference between sides. 27297. So last Sunday morning I decided to fix it. Three layers of glass mat on the inside then three layers cut to fit the hole, some filler, primer and paint.272942729527296
It was the only mistake (and there have been many) that I had not addressed yet. I just couldn't let it go even though it would have been covered.

[rcotner]

Steve Jobs is famous for saying a products beauty goes all the way through it. He obsessed about the order and design of the parts inside his sealed computers, ones that no one ever sees. I like that idea too.

[Boz1911]

Just trying to get ready for final assembly, parts and tools everywhere. I had a full page list of things to do while the body was off. I plan on adding the orange stripe after the car is assembled so that I can get it straight with the hood and doors mounted. Sorry for the mess but things are really tight in a two car garage.

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[esff32]

I'm impressed Boz, very clean build. Can't wait to see it all put together. Well done.

[amasciarelli21]

Hi Boz, just curious I see u have you trunk aluminum in place, any problems w fitting the body back on. I wanted to rivet all my in but wasn't sure if I should

Thanks, Ang

[Boz1911]

Hi Boz, just curious I see u have you trunk aluminum in place, any problems w fitting the body back on. I wanted to rivet all my in but wasn't sure if I should

Thanks, Ang

The side pieces are just in position so that I have a little flexibility with them on the install. I will tape them up before install. Trunk floor goes in after body. Or at least that's my plan.

[amasciarelli21]

Thanks Boz, I, ll plan on doing the same, Awesome build by the way have enjoyed following your build pages, Look forward to seeing it finished.

Ang

[Boz1911]

Thanks guys, I can actually see the finish line. Someone asked me the other day if I would do it again and the answer was definately yes.

[esff32]

Thanks Boz, I just got your PM and saw your pics regarding the riv-nuts on the underside of your hardtop. So, you filled in the seam? Mine has a huge opening all the way across the bottom side of the hardtop. I will take pictures next week as I will be at work Sunday and Monday.

[Boz1911]

Thanks Boz, I just got your PM and saw your pics regarding the riv-nuts on the underside of your hardtop. So, you filled in the seam? Mine has a huge opening all the way across the bottom side of the hardtop. I will take pictures next week as I will be at work Sunday and Monday.

Sorry I had forgotten that I had filled the seams, it was a good opportunity to start body work practice..........

[Boz1911]

Thanks Boz, I, ll plan on doing the same, Awesome build by the way have enjoyed following your build pages, Look forward to seeing it finished.

Ang

Right or wrong, this is how I had the trunk prior to body install. I recommend leaving the door hinge supports off or at least one off before body install. With both installed clearing even one can be tough.

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[Boz1911]

Thanks to my great friend, Bob K, we got the body installed today. Finally some room to work. It sure is fun installing bolts for the last time........:cool:


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[Tim Whittaker]

Once the doors are adjusted prior to removing the body ( after body work ) I always drill a 1/8" hole for a cleko. That way, when the doors go on for the last time, there's little or no adjustment to fuss with on final assembly after aligning with a cleko. I do the same for the hood, trunk and grill. I just fill the holes with drive rivets on the ones that show afterwards.

Nice work Boz !!!!

[Boz1911]

Thanks Tim. That would have been a great idea had I thought of it. Hoping to really fine tune fitment during the final assembly, then apply the striping. I cleaned up the wiring on the upper part of my dash before body install but the rest is going to take a while. I figure final assembly will still take a few months?? Time to get in gear and start the title process.

[bbksv]

Is it just me or does your last attachments come up invalid?

[sheephearder]

invalid to me also

[Boz1911]

I think I fixed it and added a today pic, I don't know why it did that?? Hood and side panels are just sitting in place, just had time today to loosely install the right door.

[Boz1911]

Final mounted all the trunk aluminum, be forewarned a very minute shift in the body mount will make some rivet holes not align properly especially the sides after the bulb seal is installed. Took damn near a day to get everything aligned again. I had planned on using the insulating material shown in the cockpit but changed my mind so I put it to good use in the trunk. The piece of carpet provided for the three link cover leaves a seam showing so I took some carpet shavings and used Elmers glue (dries clear) to clean up the seams. Overall I like it and no more tinny/echo sounds in the trunk. One tool that has come in handy is a gasket hole punch. Mine is a Mac with a bunch of hole sizes. I use it to punch nice clean holes in the insulation and carpet.
Last but not least I bought an orange shifter ball to match the orange pinstripe I'll be adding to the car. Gotta say I got this from Sickspeed on ebay and it's a very nice piece especially for under 25 bones shipped to my door.

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[bbksv]

Its looking great man. Doesn't seem like it took you too long on the body work. How much time do you think you had in it (the body work)??

[Boz1911]

Its looking great man. Doesn't seem like it took you too long on the body work. How much time do you think you had in it (the body work)??

Since I'm a novice I'd say 1-200 hours. With a bunch of room where I could spread things out I could have shaved a good bit of time off of that. I'm convinced that when you get to the end of the manual it should say congratulations you're about halfway done............