Clutch questions

[dailyptc]

I'm building an Mk3.1 complete kit with the Wilwood cast aluminum pedals and clutch cable included with the kit. Typically before I close anything off, I do a lot of reading just to be sure I'm not missing anything. I read that Dave weighed in on the snapped clutch pedal issue, so that makes me feel a little better. Although, I would sure hate to be the fourth snapped pedal after everything is closed up and nearly impossible to get at. I have also heard that a genuine Ford clutch cable travels much smoother than the cables provided with the complete kit. So, here are my two questions:

First: If I wanted to replace the pedal to the new forged style is it possible to replace just the pedal or do I need to replace the whole pedal box assembly?

And second: Is the clutch cable provided in the complete kit a Ford factory part? And if not, is there any truth that the factory cable will result in an easier clutch action? I have read anywhere between 30%-40% smoother.

[GWL]

First: If I wanted to replace the pedal to the new forged style is it possible to replace just the pedal or do I need to replace the whole pedal box assembly?

And second: Is the clutch cable provided in the complete kit a Ford factory part? And if not, is there any truth that the factory cable will result in an easier clutch action? I have read anywhere between 30%-40% smoother.

First: You can replace the pedal from under and inside the footbox. 'Oxbow', had his clutch pedal brake, he is a big guy and did it himself last summer. Do a search for him for more details.

And second: I understand from others that the original Ford part works better and will last longer.

Additional thoughts: I would consider making a removal panel in the top panel of the drivers footbox on the engine side for access at a later time. I've got to make a new top panel because of some modifications and am going to make it completely removable.

George

[efnfast]

A lot of people say the OEM ford one will last longer, but i havn't seen that - my adjustable BBK is fairly smooth and shows no signs of getting ready to pack it in after 3yrs of use.

Some clutch cable failures may be attributable to other factors - for example, perhaps the aftermarket ones are not as heat resistant, and as most people don't have it clamped away from the headers, perhaps the extra heat causes extra fatigue which causes it to fail sooner?




Additional thoughts: I would consider making a removal panel in the top panel of the drivers footbox on the engine side for access at a later time. I've got to make a new top panel because of some modifications and am going to make it completely removable.

George

This.

Hold the top, inner panel in with rivnuts and make the entire panel removable - you'll be thankful you did if you ever have to access the upper area of the d/s footbox with the body on.

[toolmaker]

I have a MKIII with a Ford clutch cable. In 6 years, and 27,000 miles of driving, no issues.

Just my 2c worth.

Dave.

[Rootbeer Roadster]

I was also worried about this. Here is what I did:
1. I modified the inner top cover to be removeable.
2. I bought an FMS cable from Forte and put a heat shield sleeve on it.
3. I bought a clutch fork extender from Forte. This made the pedal easier to press and should help with the breakage issue (if there is one).

Jeff

[Darren]

Just go with a hydraulic clutch and utilize the Wilwood pedal box as it was intended. Mine works perfectly. Cost me about $200 total when all was said and done.

[Don]

Let me know if you want to switch to a hydraulic clutch. ;)