Starting a coupe in central Florida

[Rworthy]

I have been surfing the forum for the past couple of years and visited FFR Last Fall. Was really close to ordering coupe at that time but just couldn’t step off the porch. After seeing Karen’s coupe at SEMA last year and talking with her for a few minutes, my mind was made up to do a completion coupe. Thanks Karin, you don't know how much our short visit and getting a close look at your car motivated me on this project.

I ordered my complete kit on May 9; Car was completed on June 15 and delivered by Bob from Stewart Transportation last Saturday Morning. Got the car unloaded, body off and onto buck (thanks DARKPT For the plans!) and the chassis on the lift with the help of a few friends. Did inventory during the week and will be starting the aluminum removal and hopefully start the chassis modifications this weekend.

I think I have a very good idea on the SIB’s thanks to Hank’s excellent instructions and the fuel cell protection thanks to various threads and blogs. However, I’m not too sure what is recommended / needed for the front of the chassis. Any help there would be appreciated.

I may need a double strength straight jacket. I’m already getting bi-polar. What a great car…What am I getting into?…This will be a fun project…How am I ever going to get all this done?…Can’t wait to get started…Am I really going to cut up and modify my brand new FFR coupe chassis?

Thanks to all the forum contributors for unknowingly motivating me to get this project started.

I'm new at posting so if i violate any protocols, please let me know and I'll straighten up.

Looking forward to a fun build and getting some coupes to Sebring.

Ron

[QSL]

Congrats!!!!

Once you start cutting and seeing your progress you will feel much better. Just remember, you can always fix something if you mess it up. As far as the build goes. I know it can be very scary when you look at all those boxes and think to yourself how much money you have tied up in parts in boxes. But don't fear. Once you start bolting it on it goes very fast and in no time you will have a roller and at that point you will feel like you have a car in your garage instead of a stack of parts boxes.

If you look at our thread you will see what we did with the front bar. However, if your using a clutch, you will need to look at Karen's front bars as our setup WILL come into contact with the clutch severely. I currently have the jigs for the SIB mod and this makes the job much easier. If Hank and the others approve (since these are not mine) I have no problem shipping them to you.

good luck!

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome and congratulations on your new project. Karen can motivate people to do things they never dreamed of before. What are your plans as far as running gear?
Doug

[Jacob McCrea]

Welcome; you will have a great time working on this project.


I think I have a very good idea on the SIB’s thanks to Hank’s excellent instructions and the fuel cell protection thanks to various threads and blogs. However, I’m not too sure what is recommended / needed for the front of the chassis. Any help there would be appreciated.

Regarding the fuel cell protection tube/bumper, make sure that you put the rear tube outside the 3/4" square tubing, as shown in the Competition Coupe threads and blogs. Do not install this tube inside of the 3/4" square tubing, which is how it is shown in my build thread. For the benefit of everyone, the problems with my approach are two-fold: 1) it leaves a bigger gap between the body and the protection tubing, which may lead to more body damage in a crash; and 2) more importantly, you will end up having to do more fabrication work to mount the fuel cell. The factory frame is set up pretty well for a cell to drop into it with the addition of hangers/mounts, as shown in Karen's thread.

As for the front tubing, I agree with Mike above. If you compare what I did with the Competition Coupes you will see that I added a lot of frame stiffening tubing up there compared to the other cars. Frankly I was working without having a totally clear understanding of what I was doing. It looks very nice in my view but I wouldn't do the same thing again. Given what I know now I think that what I did was overkill, and I could have accomplished the same thing with a different design and much less metal. Bottom line: follow the design laid out by Karen et al. and you will be fine. Just make sure that you use 1.5" x .120 DOM tube from the bulkhead to the front suspension.

We have been working on a build manual for the coupe to put all the info in a concise document. It is nearly finished but some unyielding work deadlines and other responsibilities have kept me from finishing it for some time now. I am going to try to button it up shortly (yet again).

Again, welcome. You will have a great time doing this. I'd be happy to discuss any aspect of what I know. Send me a private message or track me down otherwise.

[jkrueger]

Ron

First of congrats. Second, we need some pictures :)

I felt the same way about cutting the brand spanking new FFR frame we started with frame mods. I let my Dad make the first cut. It was easier to watch it than do it.

If you need any extra pictures of frame mods let me know. I took a lot more than I posted here or posted on my blog.

Good Luck,

JC

[Rworthy]

First: thanks for the responses. I'm somewhat overwhelmed. I have been watching your builds for a while, and it's good to know that you offer all the help. However I'm not too surprised after seeing the support offered on this forum since I have been watching.

Mike,
I would love to have the jigs. I remember from a while back that there may be a set on the east coast. If that set is available I would like to find that one, use it and pass it on.

I am going with three pedals, so I need the "svelte" version of the front bars.

Doug,

I ordered kit with 302 headers, motor mounts and T5 transition mounts. After being tempted by LS motor (I have a Corvette too) and Coyote by Tom's experience, I decided to KISS with the more tame build. My goal is to be able to drive a tame coupe to the limit and then build from there.

Jacob,

How many Welders did you wear out building your car. Of course, your build is on that I have studied. I appreciate your comments on the fuel cell frame..When I get settled in a little with the project,I would like to get in touch and get your input. Right no I'm just trying to relate the real steel to all the photos that I have been studying. If you have any preliminary versions of the build manual, I would appreciate. Maybe I can help get it published..

JC,

Your build is another inspiration to me. You guys really crashed the build.

I'll figure out how to get in touch as I need to. I would like to get as many photos as i can. Too much information is better than not enough (most of the time). I tend to get finished and wish I had taken more photos. I do have a few from the arrival that the "crew" took. When I figure out how to post them, I'll include a few.

Thanks again to everyone for the responses and the help. I'm already beginning to feel more sane. Please don't tell me that's a false sense of security.

I am building a 65 coupe, what could go wrong?
I am building a 65 coupe, what could go wrong?
I am building a 65 coupe, what could go wrong?

Ron

[tcoon]

Hi Ron, welcome to the club! It is really cool to see people so stoked about these cars! Let me say they are totally worth it! I agree the frame mods are a tough leap to take , but DO IT! I would highly recommend the seat mod on both sides, wish I had done that one...

Drivetrain choice is not that critical, but I would not go with the T5...lots of breakage issues as you approach 300 hp...check out the challenge series threads on that one.

As far as the front bulkhead braces go, the original straight bars as designed by Rick Anderson and me have worked fairly well. Passed tech without an issue and do not interfere with cable clutch or hydraulic setup...I have had both. They are a bit of a hassle when trying to fit the front inner fender liners, mine are custom and Karen has none. Additionally they allow extra foot room in the box if you want to add a dead pedal. I will try to find a good photo to post for you.

Once again, welcome aboard!
Tom

[tcoon]

attached find a few extra photos which may be helpful...Karen's cell, my cell, my front bulkhead bars. Note how pedal box and clutch quadrant relate to the bulkhead bars...

[tcoon]

PS while your at it...this is what I did for the battery box. Rick has told me if he were to do Karen's car again he would do it this way, battery is out of the way and leaves more room under the hood for an Accusump. I used a small racing battery, I think others have a kit for this with a full size battery. while you're changing the birdcage in the back, this is easy to do.

[DARKPT]

Congratulations, Ron!

Be sure to come out of the garage once in a while so the family doesn't report you missing. :)

[Fluge]

Congratulations Ron. I shared many of the same feelings when i first got my car. Take it one step at a time and plan things out in advance. You'll find that there are many ways to do certain things...some better than others and some just better for you. I left a camera with the car as a reminder to take lots of pictures. Not having done this sort of thing before, I recall picking and putting down my die-grinder about 20 times before I could muster up the nerve to make my first cut in the frame. In the end I just said screw it...it I don't like it I'll find someone to fix it.

As for following forum rules...we like pictures! :)

Looking forward to reading your posts.

Marc

[Rworthy]

Thanks again guys.

Tom, a few more questions:
Does the fuel cell fit in the same space as the Mustang tank or does the square tubing need to be moved?
What model fuel cell did you use?
Why was the diagonal bracing removed above the fuel cell?

[tcoon]

The square tubing was moved a few inches. This to accommodate the cell and allow it to be removed from the top or bottom. We used the 22 gal cell, and at the depth I placed it, it does not hang down below the body. It is slightly higher than Karen's. If I want to switch to a 32 gal cell for endurance racing it is the same size except taller, so I can put in the larger cell and just raise the top 4" (hence removing the diagonal brace). Basically this is the same model as used in the Challenge series, can't remember the number but I think it's called a "sportsman". Same as challenge series except no side fill.

[Rworthy]

Since you asked for photos, some from last Saturday's delivery.
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[John Dol]

Ron,

Congrats on the purchase. These cars a ton of fun as you will find out, and the brotherhood here will pull you through the tough times.
Looking at your shop I'm a little worried that you do not have all the necessary tools though....;)

John

[riptide motorsport]

Congrats.........enjoy the build!