Aluminum Coatings

[Mechie3]

It's been mentioned within other threads, but didn't have it's own topic that I recall.

Some have talked about sharkhide ( http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=sharkhide%20aluminum%20protectant ) to coat the aluminum panels with. Erik mentioned he was using an epoxy (but didn't say what type or brand).

I'd rather have a black coating to help hide dirt on exteriour parts. Probably a satin gray or clear for interior parts. Does anyone have any specific recomendations, or is it easy enough to just go to a big box store and look for epoxy paint?

[michael everson]

I would send the aluminum to a powdercoater
Mike

[68GT500MAN]

2x for powder coating.

[BipDBo]

I like the aircraft-like bare metal look of the interior. Some have pointed out, though, that it might feel like a hot dog cooker and reflections could get dangerous to driving. I like the idea of painting the interior much more than trimming it out with something like leather or cloth. Paint is much cheaper, lighter, and problem and maintenance free. Something like Plastidip or a good spray paint might work, but I don't know how good it would look up close or how durable it would be. Truck bed coating might work well for the floors. Powder coating is likely the best option. There are a lot of items on the 818 that may be good candidates for powder coating. It may be worth it to buy the equipment (or perhaps even rent) rather then to send it away. Harbor freight has the equipment for pretty cheap, but I don't know about the quality. It would definitely be prudent to do some practice painting.

Color is a good question. I'm partial to white, but black is probably best for the floors for the reasons you state. The problem with black is that it might absorb a lot of solar heat and get hot easily, but this isn't necessarily the case. I've heard of some black paints that are designed for automotive purposes to not put an extra strain on the car's AC. They absorb the visible spectrum and therefore have a black color, but reflect the infrared (heat) waves. I have no idea about availability or price of such a product.

[C.Plavan]

I have to agree, I like the look of raw aluminum, but the reflection can be bad (And HOT!). I have a new enclosed race car trailer with a Diamond plate extension ramp- It blinds you everytime you walk into the trailer from the ramp, and if you put or park anything just right near it, it will/can melt depending on the outside temp!

Personally, I'm thinking about powdercoating my 818R a light satin grey or white. Why? It allows you to see leaks/dirt before they can become a problem, unlike black.

19745

[Mechie3]

My only concern with spray paint is chipping/scratching. I redid my Fmod frame with primer and rattle can paint followed with a clear coat. It's ok. It's not extremely fragile, but it's not terrible durable to rubbing.

I'm going to an anodize house tomorrow to see what they would charge and what colors they have. Would it be tacky to do the inside in gold. Lol. I'd likely do the interior in a clear or gray depending on what they charge. Since it'll be a lot charge, I might just do the whole thing in gray/clear...or blue. ;)

[BipDBo]

FFR will powder coat the chassis for $399 and will likely do a much better job than a paint shop, and certainly better than I could do. The order form specifies gloss black , but maybe they'll be flexible about the color if enough people ask. White or satin grey as Plavan suggested sounds like a great idea and it would look sharp too. FFR may even be willing to do to exposed surfaces of the interior panels. Unless they are completely stacked with orders, I don't know why they would refuse to do it for a reasonable cost.

[Mechie3]

I orderd my kit with the PC'd frame. Just need to figure out the panels now.

[metalmaker12]

Mechie I am powdering the firewall panels satin black and I will be twill carpeting the interior stuff along with carbon veneers etc.

[RelfF2]

I was thinking of spraying the interior with lizard skin, but I'm not sure about the rest of the aluminum, I dont want it bare, but dont want to pay a powder coater either. I'd be interested to see what kind of paints people are using.

[Mechie3]

Oooh...carbon fiber. That might have to be a winter project for me though.

[Frank818]

Would that be ok for you?

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch.htm
http://www.nextel-coating.com/nextel/default.asp?lng=eng

[Jacob McCrea]

Just FYI, if you are going to paint aluminum, I'd take the time to research the various products and processes for attaining proper adhesion. On the one hand you can just clean it, use garden-variety primer and hope for the best. At the other end of the spectrum is something like PPG's two-step pretreatment process (Alumiprep DX533 and Aldoline DX503), followed by a good epoxy primer. Rustoleum makes a rattle-can primer specifically for aluminum, which probably falls in between these two approaches. I used it once and it seems like a good product.



Personally, I'm thinking about powdercoating my 818R a light satin grey or white. Why? It allows you to see leaks/dirt before they can become a problem, unlike black.

This is part of the reason why my Type 65 frame is white. It should also make it easier to see under the car when doing maintenance. I believe a few others have gone with white for the same reasons, despite the drawbacks.

[wleehendrick]

Metalmaker and I are on the same page. I plan to cover the Aluminum panels with a suitable material, carpet on the floor/console and probably vinyl (or something sexier like carbon fiber) on the door panels and in other key locations. Aluminum can look great, and has a classic aviation aesthetic if finished properly, but has some significant issues in an open cockpit with thermal conductivity, reflectivity and noise.

While metal surfaces would be OK for a show or track car, I want a civilized daily driver, so so soft-touch interior surfaces and soundproofing (dynamat, etc underneath) will also be used. For the remainder of the chassis panels, I will probably powder coat. I'd consider a bed-liner type material (Lizard skin, etc...) in the wheel wells and underside to protect the surface and deaden noise from road debris pinging off the aluminum. Since the interior will require more 'custom' work, I expect it to lag a bit and turn into a longer term project after the 818 is otherwise road-ready.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Craig,
If you opt for powder coating I can recommend:

Gale Enameling 317-839-7474 in Plainfield.
Indy Powdercoating 317-244-2231 in Speedway.
Pro-Kote 317-872-0001 on the NW side.

Jeff

[wallace18]

Lizard skin works great on the outside of the panels. It protects from road debris and adds heat and noise insulation. JMO

[Wayne Presley]

Powdercoating mine like I do all my FFR's...

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/P1020172_zps224f7dbb.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/P1020172_zps224f7dbb.jpg.html)

[C.Plavan]

Powdercoating mine like I do all my FFR's...

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/P1020172_zps224f7dbb.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/P1020172_zps224f7dbb.jpg.html)

Hey Wayne,

Are you drilling holes first, then powder coating? Or powder coating then drilling?

[Wayne Presley]

I drill then powdercoat. Do yourself a favor and go get a 3-4" thick,table 2'x4' piece of styrofoam as your drilling table surface. I use an air drill, my rivet guide and blow though the drilling process. Buy 10 of the #30 drill bits and throw them away as they get dull/broken.

[Mechie3]

Nice tip Wayne. Thanks.

[longislandwrx]

Wayne,

How much should you expect to pay to coat all the 818 panels?

[BipDBo]

I drill then powdercoat. Do yourself a favor and go get a 3-4" thick,table 2'x4' piece of styrofoam as your drilling table surface. I use an air drill, my rivet guide and blow though the drilling process. Buy 10 of the #30 drill bits and throw them away as they get dull/broken.

Might be a good step to get your kids involved, with close supervisions of course. I'm reminded of when my dad (a USCG aircraft mechanic) and I built a boat when I was 12. We drilled a lot of screw holes. My dad was too old fashioned and too cheap to buy a 2nd drill, so all of those screws were driven by hand. I offered to ride my bike to the store and buy one myself, but he insisted on us doing it by hand. I guess he valued keeping time with me more than getting the job done quickly.

[THE ITALIAN]

My Roadster is also Powder Coated. It is super tough and can actually be polished.
Mine looks the same as the day it was coated. The inside panels need a sound material after install.
Paint chips, period.

[Mechie3]

What colors have you used for interiors?

[THE ITALIAN]

Mine is a grey , but shiny grey
Black is fine, but a light color helps see those black parts and any oil that may be squirting out
The grey makes the engine stand out and it is also in my trunk
I have no Powder in my interior

[CHOTIS BILL]

I have built many frames and tried several different colors and my favorite is light gray. I chose a color that is close to my favorite spray can color to make little touchups. I think white is too bright and detracts from everything around it and black is to dark and makes working around darker areas more difficult. For me light gray is a good compromise.

Bill Lomenick

[bromikl]

Would something like this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271210266836

[THE ITALIAN]

Would something like this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271210266836
I would just powder coat and suck up the extra$, it is the best way in the long run.

[WIS89]

Sorry for the ignorance, but I have no direct experience with powder coating...

How much should one expect to pay to powder coat the Roadster panels-- say the firewall, engine compartment, trunk, and interior?

Same type of question for the 818 -- best guess obviously as no one has done it yet I presume.

Hot Rod?

Coupe?

I am just looking for potential ranges for this, no need to get agonizingly specific, and you don't need to put your cost here if you are not comfortable sharing that information. I just have no idea what a good starting point would be budget wise to have a good powder coating job, and know that many of you all do. Again, sorry for the ignorant question, but would be grateful for the help!

Regards,

Steve

[Jacob McCrea]

I'm not an authority on the powder coating process but I have had my frame blasted and coated, and have spoken at some length with a few knowledgeable people. I've never had panels coated, but the comments below should be somewhat helpful.

The price seems to depend on whether you go with a higher end prep process and materials. For example, I paid over 4 times what FFR charges to have my frame media blasted with a titanium dioxide medium (if I recall), followed by a top-of-the-line primer and a top-of-the-line top coat. It was not cheap, but the finished product was also top notch and I am confident that it won't peel off 40 years from now. By contrast, a friend paid under $500 to have his tube chassis for a stock car powder coated, but the prep process was minimal because the frame will be junk well before the powder coat quality is a problem.

I would also like to know what folks are paying for powder coated panels, and importantly, what the prep process was for that price point.

[metalmaker12]

I am having a friend of a friend powder my panels. He has a business were he powder coats often. I have experience at work and from various parts I have done elsewhere. You can prep the panels with acetone and powder, this is the quick cheaper and decent way to do it. You can aluminum oxide blast the panels light and clean with acetone than powder prime and top coat which will be more expensive but last forever. 150-350 max is my guess for the panels and 400-1000 for frame. If you have more specific questions pm me

[Turboguy]

Anyone else amused that -while we have threads going on nit-picking on how the 818 actually weighs a touch over 818KG- here we are discussing adding paint/coating and therefore weight to an item that doesn't really need to be coated?


Of course I see the logic behind it and will probably do mine on my 818R - however, I still think it's funny.....

[THE ITALIAN]

I never thought about the weight myself, but your right, many are concerned with "how much does a radio weigh?".
When my friends used to tell me "I just bought these crank arms for my mountain bike that are drilled & milled", I would say, "Hey just go take a dump before riding"

The weight has never been my wow factor, never was. I like the concept, and FFR's past success and MY Roadster. If I'm around 2000lbs I'm fine
That's a TON O FUN
The car will be very fast & quick no matter what weight comes in and until someone can master the speed and capabilities of this new car, weight is no issue until then.

Some of us (even my beautiful self) spend way too much time in front of this Mac Book Pro (sorry you guys still living in the PC world) and could use a little time burning off some of this well earned FAT , trim the ear & nose hair, trim those 2" toe nails (yellow of course) & brush that build up on those front teeth, hell that's almost 40 pounds right there!
Trim it where you can you weight hungry fanatics

[Mechie3]

There's a local PC place 5 mins from my house. They had a blog at one point, but it's missing now. They powdercoated a late model chassis and it weighed less than an identical chassis that was painted.

[RelfF2]

Looks like FFR coated/covered/sprayed/did something to the interior of their street car. anyone know exactly what?

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/FFR-818/IMG_8347_zpse1ca9d66.jpg

[wallace18]

looks like vinyl to me. l

[SkiRideDrive]

Looks pretty good from the photo.

[Mechie3]

I don't see any exposed rivets on the door top.

[GUNS]

In my packing list, one of the items not included was door liners. I wonder if they came up with some interior bits.

[Erik W. Treves]

they are being redesigned...the metal exposed rivet edge was done on the first few kits...they will have it figured out long before you get to first start.

[GUNS]

they are being redesigned...the metal exposed rivet edge was done on the first few kits...they will have it figured out long before you get to first start.

Happy to hear that. The interior above IMO looks much better than what was shown at the open house.

[metalmaker12]

I am going to use powdercoat, wrap,carpet, and carbon veneer in the interior to give it a finished turner look

[Mechie3]

they are being redesigned...the metal exposed rivet edge was done on the first few kits...they will have it figured out long before you get to first start.

Yesterday then? ;)

No call from Stewart so no idea when the actual pickup is. The nice part about no rivets is it'll be easier to wrap with a fabric and still mount it (theoretically).

[FFR-ADV]

Looks like FFR coated/covered/sprayed/did something to the interior of their street car. anyone know exactly what?

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/FFR-818/IMG_8347_zpse1ca9d66.jpg

Nice photo! Could this be Plastidip? FFR was trying this out on the exterior of the 818 during track testing. The edges look allot softer than the riveted panels shown at the open house.

Cheers!

[mrbiglar]

Curious on thoughts for using Herculiner for the bottom of the car. This would be both the frame (already powder coated) and the aluminum panels? I don't have an oven big enough to bake the panels, and like some of the protection this might provide from rocks, etc. Plan to use lizard skin on the inside, but trying to figure out what to do with bottom.