When to cut inner tie rod

[hrosenthal]

I have read some posts where people have had to cut the inner tie rod.
This is something I did not do.
How do I determine if this needs to be done.
I have not fully tightened the tie rod to the spindle yet and am thinking I should get this sorted out before I do.
Thanks

[rich grsc]

When the tires point in opposite directions.

[Scott Zackowski]

I have read some posts where people have had to cut the inner tie rod.
This is something I did not do.
How do I determine if this needs to be done.
I have not fully tightened the tie rod to the spindle yet and am thinking I should get this sorted out before I do.
Thanks

Good discussion on this at mk4build.com

It comes down to 2 things:

1) Length of the inner tie rod on the steering rack

2) And the ability to screw the outer tie rod down far enough on the rack so that the brake discs are lined up as you would expect the tires to line up. In addition, the outer tie rod can not be screwed all the way in. You need space for the lock nut and space for alignment adjustment later.

If you have to shorten the inner tie rod (steering rack), a good way to do it is to use an extra nut to cut against. Screw on the nut at where you want to cut, roll tape behind it to prevent the nut from moving, cut with hack saw or cut off tool against the nut, threading the nut off will clean up the threads on the end of tie rod.

The web site referenced will explain how to measure where to cut and if you need to shorten the tie rods.


Mk IV, Complete kit, FFR 7304

[CraigS]

I am not sure the stage of your build but here is my idea. If the suspension is together enough to get the car on the ground it will be more accurate but possible even w/ it hanging on stands. Drop the car onto the tires. Use a carpenters square to adjust the front UCAs so the tires are vertical or leaned in at the top up to 1/2 inch. Don't worry about caster, just make the front and rear arms of the UCAs the same length as you adjust to the above. Now figure a way to make a crude toein/toeout measurement.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=152&catid=5
look at these and read the tech tips and make something out of wood trim boards. Get a helper and you can do it w/ just one tape measure. Adjust your toe so it is toed in maybe 1/4 to 3/8 inch (smaller measurement in the front). If you can do this you are good to go. If not, cut about 3/8 inch off both inner tierods. The real toein spec is closer to 1/16 inch but you want to have some leeway here so you still have adjustment ability when a good alignment is done and everything is a little different than this crude trial setup.HTH

[bwwooster]

It also depends on whether you are using SN95 uprights and/or a bump steer kit. I cut 1.5" off each end of mine to use a bump steer kit on my MkII with Fox uprights. I'm currently into my second month of trying to fit the SAI kit and SN95 bits and one of the problems I haven't yet solved is that I need a full-width rack or longer bump steer sleeves.

As someone already posted, you have to assemble everything and see where you are-- are the wheels parallel with at least an inch (or more!) of thread engagement in the tie rod ends and there's a bit of room for adjustment left on the tie rod ends.