Painting engine bay

[jackboeker83]

Ok so I am painting my F panels (front wheel wells) with rubberized undercoating right now and I was wondering if anyone has every painted their aluminum panels for the engine bay. I saw Lazrcng's post and he had his powder coated and I loved the way that looked but not sure if it would look good spray painted flat black. Another thing I would want to do in the future is lizard skin for sound and heat but would the spray paint interfere with the spraying of the lizard skin? obviously I would just do the foot boxes and firewall not talking about doing the panels that are gonna be under carpet or anything like that... this is for looks only. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[Dan Babb]

On my first car, I spraypainted them flat black and liked the look. I had left the raw alum inirtially, but they get messy looking over time. When i pulled the motor for a rebuld, I cleaned up the engine bay too.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/Cobra4Sale/CIMG2394.jpg

I used an etching primer first to help it stick.

[riptide motorsport]

Yup........and Dan is still longing to have his first love back!! On a serious note, the flat looks great as does satin, I prefer satin myself.


On my first car, I spraypainted them flat black and liked the look. I had left the raw alum inirtially, but they get messy looking over time. When i pulled the motor for a rebuld, I cleaned up the engine bay too.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/Cobra4Sale/CIMG2394.jpg

I used an etching primer first to help it stick.

[jackboeker83]

did you have to use high temp paint or no? I know the engine bay can get pretty hot. also what type of paint did you use? and on the primer... whats the difference between self etching and clean metal primer (that's what I have currently)?

[Dan Babb]

I didn't use a high heat paint. I don't remember the heat range for regular spray paint, but I don't think your engine bay panels will get over 120 degrees and regular paint will hold up to that.

The etching primer has an acid that effectively eats into the metal a bit and helps it grip better. You probably get the same result from using something like a scotch brite pad to rough up the panels before you paint them.

PS...I still do miss my first car. That kenne bell s/c really put out great power.

[WIS89]

Jack-

If you like the silver look of the aluminum, there is another option as well. It is called sharkhide. You can clean the panels with their cleaner, polish it with their polish, and then seal it with a finish coat, and you will have an easy to clean relatively shiny surface that hold up pretty well over time.

Powder coating is another option as well if you like that look. Rattle cans are also going to get it done as folks have already mentioned. Frankly, a number of good options, depending on your goal. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, but ultimately is up to your taste. I am not sure I helped or not, but hopefully you think I have added more than I subtracted...

Regards,

Steve

[Scott Zackowski]

Jack-

If you like the silver look of the aluminum, there is another option as well. It is called sharkhide. You can clean the panels with their cleaner, polish it with their polish, and then seal it with a finish coat, and you will have an easy to clean relatively shiny surface that hold up pretty well over time.

Powder coating is another option as well if you like that look. Rattle cans are also going to get it done as folks have already mentioned. Frankly, a number of good options, depending on your goal. There are advantages and disadvantages to each, but ultimately is up to your taste. I am not sure I helped or not, but hopefully you think I have added more than I subtracted...

Regards,

Steve


Sharkhide is what I went with, but it has some limitations.

Pros:
1) Relatively inexpensive
2) Easy to apply
3) Can be easily reapplied by you
4) Gives you the vintage aluminum look (I applied only to the visible panels)
5) Cleans up nicely with Windex
6) Withstands heat

Cons:
1) Dissolved by petroleum based products (a bummer in the engine bay)
2) Won't last forever (in a garaged car I suspect it will last 10 years maybe longer though)


If using sharkhide, you will need to experiment with what it can be cleaned up with. As mentioned Windex works very well and does not affect the finish, Simple Green affects it, and any petroleum based product takes it right off.


Mk IV, Complete kit, FFR 7304

[CraigS]

Another option is Rustoleum Hammered paint.
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-hammered-spray-paint/
I love this stuff. gives a finish somewhat similar to a wrinkle but smoother. It dries quite fast which is a big help. Since the finish isn't a perfect smooth gloss, it's also easy to touch up later if needed. On small parts I just do a couple of light coats and then a heavy one. Heavy is actually good for this type paint. On panels, I might etch it, and then prime, and then paint. If you did the silver color a scratch wouldn't show easily since the paint will be a just a little darker than the aluminum itself.

[WIS89]

Scott-

Many thanks for the information on SharkHide. I appreciate the experience and clarification on the actual use of the product. I may re-think my own use, or at least how I use it when the time comes. Good information, and I thank you for sharing!

Regards,

Steve

[dforthof]

Starting my roadster later this month, but I've done a couple restorations and had a lot of luck with the Eastwood engine bay paint. Seems to be able to withstand just about any chemical without peeling (except for brake fluid) and looks good, can be powerwashed as well. I used the lacquer based, prime it and the it's just a one-shot deal, no clear. http://www.eastwood.com/2k-ceramic-underhood-black-quart-kit.html#tab_content_reviews

[johnpinetree]

Oh that Eastwood stuff looks nice. Do you have to use it all in one session? Or can you cap it and hold off for later?

[Jhinkemeyer]

Oh that Eastwood stuff looks nice. Do you have to use it all in one session? Or can you cap it and hold off for later?

In their "Application Tips" Pot life is 48 up to 72 hours at 68 degrees

[smccoy]

For the Eastwood 2k paint, it has a pot life of approximately 48 hours after you 'activate' the can so you really need to be ready to use the entire can when you start.

[edwardb]

Oh that Eastwood stuff looks nice. Do you have to use it all in one session? Or can you cap it and hold off for later?

This is nearly a 10 year old thread and the person you're asking the question to hasn't been on here for almost 4 years. :confused:

For the record, I did try a can of that particular paint. It was OK. But expensive and as already stated, once you break the seal on the activator, you have to use the whole can. I personally didn't find the positives outweighed the negatives.

[johnpinetree]

Got my threads mixed up!

[Fordman114]

I scuffed mine with scotchbrite pads then coated them with Rustoleum Bedliner spray

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