Push button starter question

[maczter]

Hey Roadster gurus...I am building the 33 HR, but understand our wiring harness is very similar if not the same. Have any of you wired up a push button starter with ignition switch as opposed to a key start? Do you have any pictures/info/documentation of what wires you wired where? I understand how the switch works per se, but am VERY confused at to what wires from the harness go to the button and which to the switch. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

[skullandbones]

Hi maczter,

I got my push button starter switch from Finish Line. It's very nice quality. There were no instruction but it's a racing switch so I think they expect you to know the circuitry if you are a racer. It is pretty simple (the way I did it). I first checked by doing a continuity check with my multimeter on the ignition switch by turning the key (just to be sure of which terminal). Then I disconnected the purple wire from the ST terminal on the back of the ignition switch and connected one of the push button switch wires to the purple wire and the other wire to the ST terminal on the key switch. This method disables the "start" function of the key but the key still has to be in the ignition "on" position for the push button to work. If you don't want to do it that way, you will have to wait for the gurus to chime in. The push button doesn't make it go faster (one of my rules to add stuff) but it is cool looking. Good luck, WEK.

[OCCPete]

I'm not totally familiar with the RF harness, but there should be be ignition power and solenoid wires. You'll need to split the ignition power wire so you can run it both to the ignition switch and the starter button. Run the solenoid wire to the other terminal on the starter button.

Pete

[ajt725]

Hey Roadster gurus...I am building the 33 HR, but understand our wiring harness is very similar if not the same. Have any of you wired up a push button starter with ignition switch as opposed to a key start? Do you have any pictures/info/documentation of what wires you wired where? I understand how the switch works per se, but am VERY confused at to what wires from the harness go to the button and which to the switch. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

I used the Digital Guard Dawg set up with the rf key fob and push button. It was very easy to install. Check their web site out and if you decide to order call them. They run specials and gave me their hot rod set up unpackaged for around $150 off.

On a side note, I see you are from Xenia. Warrior Racing in Tippcity is building a 33 right now in their shop. They dropped a nice blower motor in it not to long ago. Check them out if you are ever North of town

[maczter]

I have actually talked with DGD about using their system with my buttons, and we are working on it. Tipp huh? I will have to make a trip up there very soon. Where are you out of?

[ajt725]

I have actually talked with DGD about using their system with my buttons, and we are working on it. Tipp huh? I will have to make a trip up there very soon. Where are you out of?

I am about :15 min West of Tipp. Just got the call yesterday that my vin is in so hopefully I will have plates next week! My car is Kona blue with whit strips. Flag me down if ya see me!!

[DaleG]

I used the Digital Guard Dawg set up with the rf key fob and push button. It was very easy to install. Check their web site out and if you decide to order call them. They run specials and gave me their hot rod set up unpackaged for around $150 off.

Which button did you go with? On their site, I see the installed diameters for the red/blue/green std ones, but not for the Lexus, Toyota, and others. I'm concerned about the diameters, as my dash is already drilled and somewhat congested.

[ajt725]

Which button did you go with? On their site, I see the installed diameters for the red/blue/green std ones, but not for the Lexus, Toyota, and others. I'm concerned about the diameters, as my dash is already drilled and somewhat congested.

I used the blue polished button. My dash was also installed and the keyed ignition hole was just a little too large for the button. I had an extra bezel that I had used for my boat ignition. It fit the button perfect and matches perfect. I can get a pic of you want to see it. The ignition bezel can be purchased through Eddie Marine or Dana Marine in all colors. I am not sure about the Toyota or Lexus switches.

[Dlirium]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I am researching push button options - the guard dawg does seem like a leader, albeit pretty expensive (north of $600 with the cool honda s2000 button). Anything a bit more reasonably priced with a proximity?

Also, how does using the brake for selecting ACC mode work?

Thanks!!

[skidd]

I used a DEI-2102T in my build. Along with a Honda S2k push button, primary ignition toggle switch... and NO key.
The 2102 has a pretty good proximity system... and it only cost me $20 from Amazon.
But.. it has a design flaw, that I asked DEI about, and they said it was actually by design. Stupid design if you ask me.
The "starter kill" input works perfectly... unless you disconnect and re-connect the battery.
If you do that, it enables the starter by default. Can you believe that? Enable by default? WTF!!! I was so annoyed.
But.. I found a very workable solution. Instead of using the "starter kill" to prevent starting the car when not in range, I used the pulsed "lock/unlock" outputs of the 2102.
I tied those 2 outputs into a simple custom circuit that is a soft-latching relay. It enables and disables it's output based only on the pulse from the door-lock output. More importantly, the default state when the batter power is connected, is "disabled".
Like the DEI should have been. The soft-latching module I built is working perfectly, and is a bit of a chore to build due to needing to have the parts and solder them into a bread-board. But, .. it does what it's supposed to do.
So.. if you need to use the "starter kill" , I suggest you don't simply due to the design flaw. If you don't need the starter kill, this is a cheap and workable solution.

Here is the circuit design that I used to create this latching module. I'm sure someone with better electrical engineering skills could make a better one, perhaps one that doesn't need a pair of small relays to detect the triggers.
https://easyeda.com/normal/Schematic-a718ab62a9084e34a21d2dc20d558aff

[phileas_fogg]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I am researching push button options - the guard dawg does seem like a leader, albeit pretty expensive (north of $600 with the cool honda s2000 button). Anything a bit more reasonably priced with a proximity?

Also, how does using the brake for selecting ACC mode work?

Thanks!!

I bought Digital Guard Dawg's PBS-I system (http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/automobiles-trucks/push-button-start-automotive/pbs-i). For this model, "proximity" means you're in the car and wave the "key" (mine looks like a credit card) within couple of inches of the sensor (which can be placed pretty much anywhere within reach).

To operate, you wave the key at the sensor, and the system beeps and the outer ring of the button flashes. Pushing the button WITHOUT your foot on the brake is the equivalent of turning a key to ACC. Pushing the button a second time WITHOUT your foot on the brake is the equivalent of turning a key to RUN. Pushing the button WITH your foot on the brake (and your other foot on the clutch to close the clutch safety switch) starts the car. You can jump in, wave the key at the sensor, step on the brake and clutch, and push the button to start the car immediately.

I also found DGD's technical support to be very helpful. I see they're running some SEMA specials, so it's worthwhile to give them a call just to get additional information. When I first called, there was a group buy going on that they told me about and let me join; I ended up saving a couple hundred $$$!


John