Donor pricing and salvage question

[Flying Low]

818 community, as I prepare to build the 818 (since the gtm is a bit too much money for me right now) I was wondering what a good price for a low mileage donor 2006/2007 Imprezza WRX would be? What about an STI version? I am cruising Copart periodically and have seen couple of good prices for some WRXs. What is the rough range for these vehicles? Unfortunately I cannot seem to see the old sales data to figure it out on my own. I am looking at a couple of ones - 1 rollover, 1 rear end and 1 flood damage....

Any suggestions for things to look for on the vehicles or avoid?

Richard

[Xusia]

I'm not an automotive expert, and I don't know Subaru's very well (yet; I'm learning!). I do know electronics fairly well, and have no fear when it comes to wiring (patience is another thing!). So there you have my "qualifications," and you can weigh my statements accordingly.

Personally, I'd avoid flood damage vehicles unless you know the specifics of what happened. Water damage can remain hidden for quite a little (salt water is especially damaging). Some of the problems you could see are damaged electronics (including overheating of electronics causing "interesting" issues), corroded wiring, accelerated rusting, as well as mold, mildew, etc. in fabrics. It could be fine, but it seems to me to be a big risk, so I'd only consider one I could get for a really low price.

Speaking of price, I followed Copart autions in the Pacific Northwest for almost a year. I found the 2.0L models typically had 100K+ miles and sold for $2k - $4k (price depends heavily on what's damaged). If they list a car as "Runs & Drives" you are not likely to get it for a decent price. Lower mileage ones tend to go for even more (I was outbid on a 2004 "runs & drives" with 92K, selling eventually for $5700). Although the less damage there is, the more parts you can sell to recoup some of the cost. I don't like selling off parts, so I'd rather get a car with more damage, pay less, and not bother with selling much. If I have to buy some new parts - oh well! :)

I saw the 2.5L models go for almost never less then $3500; usually over $4k. These models do typically have lower miles, though in my personal experience, probably 50% were over 100K miles.

If you want to pay less, look for cars where that don't "Run & Drive," and where the estimated damage is close to - or, ideally, exceeds - the ACV (Actual Cash Value). This combination turns off the guys that buy them to fix & sell, so there are fewer potential buyers.

Have you decided if you want a 2.0L or a 2.5L? If not, you might read this:
http://818donors.com/general/2002-2005-wrx-vs-the-2006-2007-wrx/

I think it's easy to dismiss the 2.0L because of it's smaller displacement (bigger is always better, right!), but those guys are experts and they make a good case for the 2.0L. I happen to be building my 818 with 2.0L WRX donor, and think it will be fine engine for the 818, but if I had found a 2.5L donor for a good price I'd have bought it without a second thought. So if you had misgivings about the 2.0L, hopefully that blog gives you some piece of mind. :)

[Wayne Presley]

Figure $4K minimum for an 06-07 with 100k miles, the ones in the last 2 weeks have been going over $6k on IAA and Copart with 60-80k miles. My car is getting a 2.0 with ported heads, JE 9.5 CR pistons, King bearings, DeatschWerks injectors and a bigger turbo. It should make 320 RWHP with ease.

[longislandwrx]

Also the less you pay, and the higher mileage, the more you are likely to spend on maintenance to get the parts up to spec. Higher mileage cars might need bushings, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, plugs etc etc. The parts will likely be grimier too and require more time to shine up. Make sure you consider your time when choosing the donor that's right for you.

I would say $6k for an 06-07 would be a reasonable estimate if you are doing a budget.

[RM1SepEx]

lowest cost option is to find a roll over, looks bad, big $ to fix yet should leave most of our parts in good condition.

I'm sure that the 818 release will drive up donor costs a bit as 200 builders can bid vs each other.

I bought my donor almost exactly a year ago from Copart, check the working on the donor thread for tons of info on some early donor deconstructions and rebuilding... tons of great info in that thread. Mine has been discussed all over several threads in this forum.

I think finding a low mileage donor is the key to keeping the budget down, less rebuilding to do.

There are so many possibilities/variables on this type of project. I'd look on Craig's list for local repairables, cars with issues... they tend to languish and can be had for less $

[Flying Low]

Thank you all for your insights! I was thinking the same thing on the flood damages vehicles. Who knows what electrical gremlins are lurking...

I am definitely going in the direction of the 2.5L although now I am a bit confused on the STI vs normal imprezza for fitment. I will need to look into that.

[metalmaker12]

Sti or imprezza engines mount in the same

[ktm]

Now that the cars are available, I figure that cost of donors will increase dramatically. Similar to the transaxles on the GTM's.

I paid $3500 for a 02 with 150K and a blown head gasket. On the plus side it has a rebuilt trans new clutch and tires, lots of rebuilt parts that will be easy to sell. I figure I can sell some stuff, and get it in the $2000-$2500 range.

Compare to a recent copart auction on a wrecked 02 with 95K that I *almost* won -- I was the high bidder at $2450, the seller ended up with a reserve set at $4800! Went back and forth a few times, but wouldn't come down below $3900. At ~$2500 with fees, I was pushing $3200/$3400 -- at $3900 with fees I was almost $5k. The same car has been through 3 more auctions with the minimum bid at $3500 currently. Pretty steep for an 02, particularly when you add fees on top.

Now, I'd look for a used runner for $5-$7k and sell a lot of parts of of it, or a rolled and very damaged donor.

[shinn497]

I don't know about the cost of the donor increasing ddramatically. How many of the kits can FFR make per month vs number of WRX sold o copart and such. The GTM transaxle is one thing, but it was highly specialized and also in demand for other purposes than the gtm. Anyway, hard to predict. So don't worry TOO much.

I've actually seen some interesting donors on craigslist every now and then. But I'm looking for a super cheap impreza less than 2000$

[RM1SepEx]

If two people want the same car pricing goes up... simple supply and demand. That's why I bought my donor in May of 2012

my 05, 70K roll over went for $1850 on Copart, $3500 with fees and shipping... I've sold about $1300 in used parts. It did have a damaged rack, damaged rear transverse links, and one damaged LCA

I'd watch all sources, local damaged cars or "projects" can go cheap... Craigslist is your friend!

[Samiam1017]

I've been watching prices since the 818 was announced. And I would say they have already went up. Let alone when a few more people start doing donor kits. But that doesn't mean you won't get lucking and find one cheap if somebody prebids and doesn't have time to watch the live auction. I've won my first car three times before the insurance company sold it to me for 300 lower then The first time I won it. I bought it for 3000 delivered and have sold 3200 in parts. Ended up with a bad motor. I got all my donor parts off it except motor, and brakes. And I still have a few items to sell

[SixStar]

lowest cost option is to find a roll over, looks bad, big $ to fix yet should leave most of our parts in good condition.

There are so many possibilities/variables on this type of project. I'd look on Craig's list for local repairables, cars with issues... they tend to languish and can be had for less $

Be careful of rollovers. In my experience (14 years in auto recycling, 8 in just Subaru, 4 as a yard owner) I've found that 99% of the suspension parts are junk in a rollover. Crossmembers are junk, as are the LCAs, trailing arms are bananas, even the lateral links get trashed. It took lots of trips to the alignment shop and pissed off customers to finally learn that if it's been rolled everything at the corners is junk. That said we're only after LCAs and some rear bits, which could be had for a few hundred so a SUPER deal on a flipper could be offset by the parts you'll have to source elsewhere.

As far as CL, that's a solid idea. I've personally purchased dozens of Subarus from private parties over the years, about 8-10 of them being WRXs and they can be had for cheap with burnt valves, rod knocks, shot trans/clutch, etc. Even had a few 400whp+ cars that the owner just gave up on and called it. Remember though, buy local and look it over thoroughly. A rust bucket or deer killer (think GRM project wagon) is a perfect candidate.

[Wayne Presley]

CL is great if you a Subaru population around you. I can count the number of Subie's I see in a week of driving around here on one hand... :-(

[RM1SepEx]

a dear killer can be difficult to buy from a prison inmate
now a deer killer does end up with tons of cosmetic body damage...

:-) LOL

My brother just hit a small buck with his truck, kamakazi deer ran into the side, fender, door, side of the bed, $4000 of cosmetic body damage!

[SixStar]

Ha ha, damn American english!! You are TOO right, there are TWO versions of that word TO use with only one being correct! :D