Cool Things To Help Your Build

[Xusia]

I got some good suggestions from others - things that will make stripping the donor easier - so thought I'd start a thread. Please post tools, tips, tricks, etc., you use - or plan to use - in order to make the entire process (donor strip AND 818 build) easier/smoother.

I'll start.

Tools - and I use that term loosely

Baggies - keep parts together. Be sure to label!!
Grease Pen - label items, mark orientations, etc.
Labeler - I have a Dymo Labelwriter Turbo 450, but there are many that would work. This one is currently on sale at Office Depot (http://www.officemax.com/office-supplies/labels-labelmakers/label-machines/desktop-label-makers/product-prod2840007?cm_mmc=Googlepla-_-Office%20Supplies-_-Labels%20and%20Labelmakers-_-Label%20Machines&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=21910176). I have found this particularly useful for labeling the wiring harness, specifically because the labels are larger (so you can use more text), stick better than most, and are durable (I'm using the address labels that came with it). I'll post some pics for the curious later.


Tips

Remove the door cards and any parts you want from the door BEFORE removing the battery (if you have electric windows). I rolled the windows down and removed the battery first. I was able to work around the windows being stuck down, but it seems like it would be easier to able to move the windows.

UPDATE: Pic of labeler usage added.
18168

[PhyrraM]

For donors with pull type clutches ... most Turbo models.....
Remove the clutch fork cross pin before attempting to separate the engine and transmission. This gets almost everyone the first time they pull an engine or transmission.


An old dishwasher re-purposed to the garage does a surprisingly good job at cleaning auto parts.

[WIS89]

Phyrra-

Now THIS is an excellent idea. And why not add a little parts washer (very modest amount) to the cleaner since the dishwasher has become basically a disposable item anyway? Any damage it could do to the plastic or other parts wouldn't matter, just throw it away and get another (cheap) one... Super idea!!

An old dishwasher re-purposed to the garage does a surprisingly good job at cleaning auto parts.[/QUOTE]


Regards,

Steve

[JAubin]

I know this isn't accessible to everyone, but Air Tools! Specifically I've fallen in love with my air hammer lately. The flange on my downpipe is very close to one of the nuts, and I couldn't get even a normal socket in there nevermind an impact. A flare wrench (Also good to have for brakes, etc!) would fit but couldn't turn...and an open end wrench would slip. So I made a quick notch on the side and hit it with the hammer and zipped it right off.

Right now I'm fighting with the front axle nuts...after thoroughly de-staking them (don't forget to do that before you attempt to remove them!) I have spent a bunch of time hammering on them with the impact (600 ft-lbs) and they're not budging. Either my gun isn't working right or they were put on at some insane torque...loaded them up with penetrant, hopefully that helps next time I attack them today.

After removing doors by myself an extra set of hands would've been nice to hold onto it while removing that last bolt!

[metalmaker12]

Use a long braker bar, with some PB blast prior, should come off no issue.

[longislandwrx]

I have a craftsman seat with wheels, with a shelf for tools underneath. it's great for assembling/disassembling brake and suspension parts on the car. quite the back saver. I'm thinking it will come in handy on the 818.

[Samiam1017]

After removing doors by myself an extra set of hands would've been nice to hold onto it while removing that last Bolt!


Take the front fenders off first. Unhook wires. Remove bolts with the door closed. Open door and hold on! Repeat on rear doors. Easiest way I found

[JAubin]

Take the front fenders off first. Unhook wires. Remove bolts with the door closed. Open door and hold on! Repeat on rear doors. Easiest way I found Yeah, that's pretty much what I did, except for the first one I forgot that inside pivot bolt...needed a go-go gadget arm to reach my 10mm socket.

Metal good call on the breaker bar + pipe...definitely generating more torque that way, unfortunately managed to snap my 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter. Doh! Time to get to sears and get more 1/2" drive sockets.

Another thing I've found useful: Camera. Not only for documenting things as you disassemble, but for taking pictures of things like lights, switches that you want to try and sell while you still have power connected. Makes selling stuff quite a bit easier.

[wallace18]

While building my 33, my dremel tool with cutoff wheel and other bits was very usefull in the build. I highly recommend one.

[Xusia]

Labeler usage pic added to first post.

[StatGSR]

Pro tip,

loosen the crank pulley before you remove the engine/transmission from the car. this is pretty much a requirement if you don't have a good impact and would like to get behind your timing covers for any reason when the engine is out.

[Ironhydroxide]

Pro tip,

loosen the crank pulley before you remove the engine/transmission from the car. this is pretty much a requirement if you don't have a good impact and would like to get behind your timing covers for any reason when the engine is out.

along with that, if you plan on removing the cam gears, leave the timing belt on, set the motor to mid stroke (so if it jumps you aren't screwed) and hit the gear bolt with an impact.... pretty much the only way without the special tools.

if you do want to use the special tools

http://www.company23.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=61_60

[first time builder]

Wayne Pressley !!!!

Kenny

[longislandwrx]

What size rivets does FFR use? If I'm going to order clecos what size should I be looking at? 1/8th?

[wallace18]

Most are 1/8" but you will have some 3/16" as well. I got by with 1/8" clecos just fine on my 33 build.

[longislandwrx]

Sweet, I'll probably just pick up this set with my next Summit order. I will stock up on drill bits too.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1850

If I need more 1/8 they have a set of 20 for $14

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1852

[wallace18]

Check with Michael Everson. He is on the forums. He has a cleco kit that was very reasonable. Here is his website.
He is very nice to deal with. I bought some tools and 33 stuff from him. I was very happy with all of it. http://www.replicaparts.com/

[riptide motorsport]

great tips, definitely a newbie with the Scooby stuff here.

[RM1SepEx]

Eastwood's Fast etch

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

I use a small peanut butter jar and do a few nuts and bolts at a time. Works great on small brackets etc... leaves a great finish for future painting. About 1/2 of my old Subaru bolts are done... by delivery they will all be de-rusted and ready for use... the solution can be used over and over. I spray bigger areas. a quart spray bottle can do everything from a WRX donor...

[rjh2pd]

This is a must for your build. It gets rid of everything very quick.
18256
Not really that cool though

PS dont wet your hands before/while using it, ive noticed it doesn't work nearly as well.

[RM1SepEx]

Another item from Eastwood
http://www.eastwood.com/green-rust-cutting-tumbler-media.html?reltype=2&parent_id=26145

media for a vibratory bowl to remove rust

[wleehendrick]

media for a vibratory bowl to remove rust

What is this mysterious 'rust' you keep speaking of? :confused: My donor was a CA car, so a little degreaser and everything looks brand-spanking new!

j/k... I grew up in New England and remember what road salt does to the underside of a vehicle. :(

[longislandwrx]

Horrible Freight also sells that media... Price is decent and their vibratory polisher works well too.