Perplexing Problem With Steering Arms

[hrosenthal]

What seemed like a minor, but annoying error has turned into a seemingly major problem.
When I was mounting the tie rods to the steering arms, I discovered that my steering arms were installed upside down, on the wrong side of the car.
I figured this out because the mounting holes on the steering arms are tapered and the tie rods can fit facing down, but not facing up.
The only problem is that the bolts for the steering arms don't give enough clearance to remove the steering arms without either removing the hub or disconnecting the lower control arm from the spindle.
After giving it some thought, I figured it will be easier to remove the castle nuts and cotter pins than the hub nut.
The problem I'm having is that even though I've removed the castle nuts, the control arms aren't budging and I'm not sure why.
I've tried everything I can think of, but the control arms seem to think they're still bolted on.
While I can go ahead and remove the hub nut, I seem to remember the hub is a very tight fit and I may have the same problem (plus, I don't know if removing the hub nut is a good idea)
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to rectify this problem?
Thanks

[Bob Cowan]

That's pretty common. The ball joints fit tightly in the tapered holes. Put the castle nuts back on just a few turns. Place a bottle jack in there, to put some pressure on the arms. Not a whole lot of pressure, just a little. Then, using two hammers, whack each side of the spindle where the tapered bolt goes through. Give it a few good whacks. That usually drops the ball joints out of the holes fairly quickly.

When you get ready to put it back together, give the ball joint studs a good coating of anti-seize lube.

[hrosenthal]

That's pretty common. The ball joints fit tightly in the tapered holes. Put the castle nuts back on just a few turns. Place a bottle jack in there, to put some pressure on the arms. Not a whole lot of pressure, just a little. Then, using two hammers, whack each side of the spindle where the tapered bolt goes through. Give it a few good whacks. That usually drops the ball joints out of the holes fairly quickly.

When you get ready to put it back together, give the ball joint studs a good coating of anti-seize lube.

I will try this in the morning.
Thanks.

[CraigS]

The hub nut is one time use I believe so don't take that off. Bobs technique is similar to mine for getting the ball joint to come loose. It just needs a big shock and it will pop out. You can use an impact driver w/ a dull end tip also. Tip like this or just a rounded end
http://www.toolking.com/grey-pneumatic-ch117-7-1-inch-hammer-impact-chisel?CAWELAID=845055717&catargetid=1924998172&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLPpkpaRnbcCFQua4Aod0ywAEQ
in a tool like this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Great-Neck-Saw-3-5-lbs-Long-Arm-Hammer-25776/202674230?N=25ecod#.UZYiDb7D-Pw
If you end up w/ one w/ tips like these, you could just grind the pointed one down some. Try renting at a car parts store. Good luck
Added: hit the spindle near but not exactly where the hole is that the ball joint is in. You want to shock it but not deform the hole.

[hrosenthal]

I've tried everything on this with no luck. There shouldn't be a problem with spraying some WD40 in there, should there?
Thanks,
H

[CraigS]

No problem w/ any penetrating oil.

[skullandbones]

If all of the above fail, rent/buy a ball joint fork tool. I have used mine twice only in several years but it works for stubborn cases. If you break down a lot of front ends, it is very handy. http://www.bing.com/search?q=ball+joint+fork+tool&form=AARTDF&pc=MAAR&src=IE-SearchBox

Good luck, WEK.

[rich grsc]

You really need to hit it HARD, and you need BIG hammers. Hold one hammer tight against the side of the spindle where the ball joint stud passes through, then REALLY hit the opposite side of the spindle. When you hit it hard enough it will pop free. You cant just tap on it, it takes a man sized hit. Paul Bunyan that thing.

[Bob Cowan]

I've tried everything on this with no luck. There shouldn't be a problem with spraying some WD40 in there, should there?
Thanks,
H


No problem w/ any penetrating oil.

Yes, any good penetrating oil will work. Like PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. What works really well is a 50/50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone.

WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil.

[CraigS]

What Rich said. I use a 4 pound sledge w/ a 12 inch handle. It will be very awkward doing this on the ffr w/ it on a jack or jackstands so there is no way you could hurt the spindle. just be sure to miss the body. Before I retired I was a lexus line tech and used that same hammer there. But there I had the car on a lift and could set it so I could get a really good swing. So, hit it as hard as you can w/ the largest hammer you have!!!BTW, WEK'S thought on the fork is a good one too. The only problem is that you will usually destroy the rubber boot. Actually forks are maybe the best tool but it depends whether you are re-using the parts or not. When replacing a ball joint a fork is the preferred tool.

[hrosenthal]

Thanks for all of your help on this.
H

[Jeff Kleiner]

Penetrating oils are primarily to assist with disassembling rusted parts. You're dealing with a tapered press fit, not rust. While penetrants won't hurt they won't be the magic bullet either. Whack the snot out of it like Rich & Craig said!

Jeff