Found A Donor; Ordered My Kit

[Xusia]

Over the weekend I lucked out big time and a donor literally fell into my lap. The bad news is the rear end is badly damaged. I'll be lucky if the calipers are still good. I'm fairly certain everything else is shot and will need to be replaced. It's private party, so no fees! AND it's local, so no transportation costs beyond gas and a trailer. I pick it up tomorrow. :D

The specifics: 2003 WRX Sedan, 5mt, 91K miles, VF39, FMIC (I'm getting the TMIC also!!), and tuned. The dyno sheet reads 300 whp, so more than enough for me. The interior is all in good condition, and the engine bay & radiator were unaffected by the accident, so all the important bits should be in fine shape.

17701177021770317704177051770617707

Now that I have this (or will very shortly), I went ahead and placed my pre-order. I didn't place my order earlier because I was waiting on the roll up windows, but I've decided that if they aren't an option when my kit is ready to ship I'll just deal with it. I'm hoping I can upgrade the body to accommodate roll up windows in the future, as well as the coupe. If all else fails, I may just build another one!

[AZPete]

Beautiful! The previous owner added a few nice upgrades. Congrats.

[gwader]

Looks like a Trex tried to eat it

[FFR-ADV]

Congratulations Xusia! That should make for a nice build!

Cheers!

[Samiam1017]

Congrats nice find. How longs your wait. I'm hopeing when they do roll up windows it retrofits to the current door with minor fiberglass work my self.

[Xusia]

Congrats nice find. How longs your wait. I'm hopeing when they do roll up windows it retrofits to the current door with minor fiberglass work my self.

I just placed my order today, so I have not yet been contacted.

In regards to the windows, I am hoping the same thing myself. I'm just not planning on it! LOL

[RM1SepEx]

Congrats, looks like a nice low mileage starting pouint! Makes me think I should start an ugliest donor thread! Mine is pretty knarly but your's is right up there too

[riptide motorsport]

Congrats!

[Xusia]

Congrats, looks like a nice low mileage starting pouint! Makes me think I should start an ugliest donor thread! Mine is pretty knarly but your's is right up there too

Not sure about "ugliest" but I think mine takes top honors for most damage (at least the ones I've seen)! I seriously doubt there is a single panel undamaged! ROFL

[shinn497]

can I please be you.

[Samiam1017]

I'm gonna answer you here done want to hijack Wayne's thread. I labeled all wires with tape and a sharpie, every nut and bolt either went right back into the assembly or into a sandwich bag marked and taped to what it came out of, seams a lot of guys complain about separating the trans From the engine. I never had a problem I lift the motor a little to get the weight off and smack the bellhousing with a dead blow hammer and it opens up then use a pry bar to finish. ( helped to lower engine a little at this point). Good luck

[wallace18]

Great find!

[Samiam1017]

My other recommendation is to to get it running with no codes before you remove it so your 100 percent positive when you reinstall..I'm not cutting any of my harness until after I have mine on the road then I will go back and lighten up the harness and eliminate anything that wasn't used. Seems like like twice the work but it will have a few months to sit during the winter months anyway.

[longislandwrx]

Looks like a Trex tried to eat it

LOL

Too bad you're missing that mudflap... you can get good money for a set of RA's

If you sell that FMIC and BOV, you'll be able to break even with all the rear suspension parts you need.

Looks like you scored yourself a Grimmspeed EBCS too. All this stuff adds up. nice find.


My other recommendation is to to get it running with no codes before you remove it so your 100 percent positive when you reinstall..I'm not cutting any of my harness until after I have mine on the road then I will go back and lighten up the harness and eliminate anything that wasn't used. Seems like like twice the work but it will have a few months to sit during the winter months anyway.

I'm going a step farther, I'm going to strip the harness while the engine is still in the car so I can pull it apart slowly and see if I break anything.

[Xusia]

I think the FMIC might damaged, but if it's still sellable I'll happily do that.

What's an EBCS?

[Silvertop]

It hink the FMIC might damaged, but if it's still sellable I'll happily do that.

What's an EBCS?

Electronic Boost Control Solenoid. I didn't know what it was either, so I looked it up. I do know that Grimmspeed does a lot of neat stuff. They ported, polished, and ceramic-coated my intake manifold. Nice work.

[flynntuna]

I think it's been suggested before, that a glossary of acronyms would be very helpful to us ignorant nubies to the Subie vocabulary.

[BrandonDrums]

I think it's been suggested before, that a glossary of acronyms would be very helpful to us ignorant nubies to the Subie vocabulary.

Sounds like a great sticky thread.

Until then, just use NASIOC
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117475

[longislandwrx]

http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=145

and some reasons why:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/why-grimmspeed-ebcsi-182663.html

It's a must have for any upgraded Subaru (obviously requires tuning - which your car already has)

[Xusia]

Question for the Subie experts: Which option and why:

Option 1 - Grimmspeed exhaust porting ($230) + Grimmspeed crosspipe ($220)

Option 2 - Equal length headers (price seems to depend heavily on brand and source)

I don't like the boxer rumble, so my gut says option 2, but other than a potentially lower price, is there any distinct advantage to option 1?

[Silvertop]

Question for the Subie experts: Which option and why:

Option 1 - Grimmspeed exhaust porting ($230) + Grimmspeed crosspipe ($220)

Option 2 - Equal length headers (price seems to depend heavily on brand and source)

I don't like the boxer rumble, so my gut says option 2, but other than a potentially lower price, is there any distinct advantage to option 1?

Porting the stock headers does increase their performance, and at a reasonable cost, and they continue to be reliable. Apparently, aftermarket unequal length headers often have a tendency to crack and need to be welded up or replaced. This can also be a problem with the cheaper equal length headers. I think you get what you pay for. PM me if you want to know the source of my headers, which are upwards of $1000. But they probably aren't going to break, and they are well engineered.

[longislandwrx]

The Grimmspeed setup is great in so many ways, great heat retention, great performance, ability to be drilled and tapped for an EGT sensor, good coating. But it is still really heavy. If you were going this route, I would ditch the heat shields, and cut and grind all the mounting points/castings flash off to try and get the weight down.

For the weight, I went equal length Perrin header. I found a barely used one for $300 and I'm sending it out to Grimmspeed for coating for $150. The added expense being the STI oilpan/pickup and dipstick. But I'm still under what a new Grimspeed setup would have cost.

I think you can't go wrong either way.

[rjh2pd]

I've read somewhere (probably nasioc) that equal length headers dont add very much until you start putting out big power. If you are just trying to get rid of the (great) sound then i'd say do it. I have a feeling these things will be pretty loud with the engine right behind you and such short exhaust.

[longislandwrx]

Not true, gains of 10whp/10ftlb and up above 3500 rpm can be expected on a stage 2+ car. Perhaps more on the 2.5L or with any upgraded turbo. Plus saving 10lbs+ If you get a good deal especially since this car is going to be rear heavy, I think it's worth it.

[Silvertop]

Not true, gains of 10whp/10ftlb and up above 3500 rpm can be expected on a stage 2+ car. Perhaps more on the 2.5L or with any upgraded turbo. Plus saving 10lbs+ If you get a good deal especially since this car is going to be rear heavy, I think it's worth it.

According to the builder of my EL headers, the HP gains on even my modest NA engine build (cams, intake porting, ECU tuning, headers) will be worthwhile.

[Xusia]

Another question for the subie experts: Is there a trick to installing the TMIC? I can't get the fraking plastic tube on the turbo; it just keeps bending/kinking (as far as I'm concerned is s total POS part, but it's what I have).

For those who love a good TL;DR, my engine runs, but I have a check engine light. My theory is that's because the FMIC that was on the car was completely disconnected (both it and the piping were damaged), so there is effectively no pressure in the intake track. I have the original TMIC and am trying to re-install it to see if that's what is causing the CEL . I want to make sure the engine is working properly before I start taking those components out.

Related question, I don't have the bypass valve that connects to the TMIC. Can I just connect the blow-off valve that was in the FMIC piping to the vacuum line, and block off the hole? This is just for the purpose of getting rid of the CEL, so it would only be running at idle for a short period. If I'm not revving it, I shouldn't need to worry about not having a bypass valve should I?

[longislandwrx]

The oem tmic? there's a little nub that a flat blade screwdriver goes into to push it onto the turbo:

17868

To get the car running you can block off the blow off valve hole and plug the vacuum line. no need to hook up the other BOV.
Heck you can just run the turbo right into the throttle body.

Was the rear of the car damaged, is your EVAP system intact? Make sure you have a gas cap on as well. The code may be something super simple.

[Xusia]

The rear was heavily damaged, but from the sides, not from the back. I have idea where the EVAP system is, but I'll make sure the gas cap is on tight. Thanks! :)

[Nuul]

Nice find. Can you post the dyno sheet? I'm curious how they got a VF39 making 300WHP on a EJ205.

[longislandwrx]

Its a big black plastic box behind the rear passenger wheel. If you have hoses hanging out, its probably your problem.



look for this stuff:

http://cars.natemichals.com/subaru-2/wrx-vapor-canister-purge-valve-replacement-write-up/

[Xusia]

Ahhh, yes. That box is hanging down and damaged. I'll check it out. Thanks a bunch!

[Xusia]

Nice find. Can you post the dyno sheet? I'm curious how they got a VF39 making 300WHP on a EJ205.

I was mistaken. It wasn't the dyno sheet, but a picture of tuning results on screen during the dyno tune. I've attached it anyway:17869

That said, even if I had the actual dyno graph, I'm not sure how that would tell you how. Wouldn't a parts/mods list be more helpful? Here's what the car has (that I know of):

Catless up-pipe
Tsudo bellmouth down-pipe
Perrin FMIC
Walbro Fuel Pump
740cc Injectors
VF39
Grimmspeed EBCS
Dyno Tune



There may be other things. I hope that helps.

[Nuul]

Yeah, I meant to ask for mods too but forgot. That's what I get for talking on the phone and typing at the same time. Do you know what injectors you got? I've seen moded stocks an NASIOC that are said to be 740cc, that's why I ask. Not bad so far, looks like you got yourself a nice little donor going.

[Xusia]

Both the previous owner and the shop that did the tuning said they were modded stock injectors, so I suspect that's accurate. I think the shop that did the tuning also modded the injectors.

In addition, I am planning the following, though most of it is really more maintenance than performance mods:

New Timing Belt, Pulleys, & Tensioner
New Water Pump
New Clutch (OEM Exidy)
Flywheel Resurfacing
Killer B Oil Pan & Pickup
Replace Suspension Bushings (Lower Control Arms & Toe Links)
Spark Plugs (NKG Iridium)
Valve Lash Adjustment
Cams
Valve Cover & Oil Cooler Gaskets
Upgraded Turbo Inlet
Upgraded Throttle Body Hose
Upgraded Intercooler & Hoses
T-Bolt Hose Clamps
Stainless Steel Braided Oil Feed Line
Grimmspeed Phenolic Spacers
TGV Delete
Brake system refresh/rebuild (as necessary)
Grimmspeed Crosspipe
Grimmspeed Manifold Porting
Re-Tune


The tuner thinks that'll put me in the 325-350 whp range. :D <--- Can you see the ear to ear grin?!?

[longislandwrx]

I think until you are ready to do the bottom end, cams may just be a waste for you power goals. Everything else sounds good with your build, But i'd save that cam money and start saving for a fresh bottom end and ported heads with cams one day in the future.

[Xusia]

I'm not 100% sold on the cams. The tuner recommended it, mostly because he was already going to be in there adjusting the valve lash. He said the cams would make for a nicer sound, as well as shift the power curve to the right. Does that mean increase the max RPM? I don't know...

As it sits, the engine already exceeds my original power goals (~250 at the wheels). I don't plan on doing anything to the bottom end unless/until the engine is ready for a complete rebuild. At that point, I'll likely consider all available options, including going EV, or even a completely different power plant (H6? EcoBoost? Or whatever FFR may support...). In other words, in my case it's a waste for me to plan on doing any bottom end work - it's very possible it just won't happen.

All that said, what are people's thoughts on me getting cams? I'm not into wasting money...

Oh, one more thing about the sound. I don't like the "boxer rumble." I've decided to stick with the stock headers (with the Grimmspeed crosspipe), even though equal length headers would help change the sound. So if cams can help change the sound for a reasonable price, they might be worth it for that alone (he didn't mention what the cams cost, so that's an unknown for me right now).

So, thoughts??

[longislandwrx]

Cams/free flowing exhaust are just going to accentuate the boxer rumble.

What's wrong with your valve lash? @91k you shouldn't need to reshim yet. Although if the motors out, I guess it cant hurt, but it's going to be so easy to pull this motor/work on the car later though so...

[JAubin]

That's interesting about the cam recommendation. I would think that with the mods and upgraded turbo your power curve would already be shifted pretty far to the right. My understanding is that cams would probably help a bit, but you're probably moving towards hitting the limitations of the stock heads with regards to how well they flow. It sounds like you're going to have a lot of power as it stands now...certainly imaginable that you're really happy with the setup as is once it's in the 818.

[Xusia]

Thanks, guys. Based on that I think I've decided against the cams.

As for the valve lash, my understanding is that it's due 100K miles. Assuming that's true, if I don't do it now, I'll just be doing it in 8 months anyway. I don't do that work myself, so it seems to me it's going to be cheaper to do it while the engine is already out. It also has the advantage of a qualified person getting more eyes on it to spot potential problems (and fix them while it's already out). If it was going to be a couple years before it's due, that would be another story.

[longislandwrx]

Inspected @105k iirc, when the timing belt is due. 14k miles on my 818 will be a couple years if I had to guess.

[Xusia]

Yeah, I'm building it as a daily driver, but I won't be able to drive it all the time. Still, I'm guessing at least 10K miles per year, so the 105K mile mark would come in a little over a year. Hmmmm. Decisions, decisions...

[metalmaker12]

I think 325whp is going to be tough with what mod's you listed. Cams are not worth it unless you build the entire top end, or get some spec c's etc. Stock Sti's put down like 225whp-250whp depending on dyno, and with just tunes make like 310-360whp absolute max. The Sti has much better flowing heads, more aggressive cams, better turbo, injectors and a better intake manifold to work with the engine. I don't see a wrx making much over 290whp with stock flowing heads and stock turbo etc. I have seen some maybe break 300, but they were really pushed. Good upgrades are factory upgrades are STi: turbos, intake manifold, heads, intercooler, injectors.

[Xusia]

It was previously making 300 awhp. Driving only 2 wheels, I should see an increase (less mechanical loss). Even if I wind up with less, it hardly matters to me. It will still be far more than I need!

[longislandwrx]

I think 325whp is going to be tough with what mod's you listed. Cams are not worth it unless you build the entire top end, or get some spec c's etc. Stock Sti's put down like 225whp-250whp depending on dyno, and with just tunes make like 310-360whp absolute max. The Sti has much better flowing heads, more aggressive cams, better turbo, injectors and a better intake manifold to work with the engine. I don't see a wrx making much over 290whp with stock flowing heads and stock turbo etc. I have seen some maybe break 300, but they were really pushed. Good upgrades are factory upgrades are STi: turbos, intake manifold, heads, intercooler, injectors.

Did you read his mod list? He already has a VF39 and 740s.

[metalmaker12]

I only saw a limited mod list, Sorry guys, send me a list. It will be far more than most of us will need, you will soon see why.

[Xusia]

No worries, dude! Like I said, the actual number is kinda irrelevant at this point (for me anyway). :)

[Xusia]

So I got my letter in the mail (woo hoo!), but there isn't a field on it that says "Target Production Ship Date: mm-dd-yyyy." Should I infer my target production ship date from the "Comments" and "Date Required" fields?

[timmy318]

So I got my letter in the mail (woo hoo!), but there isn't a field on it that says "Target Production Ship Date: mm-dd-yyyy." Should I infer my target production ship date from the "Comments" and "Date Required" fields?

Yup! Let the chaos begin!

[metalmaker12]

when was your date in the first place