View Full Version : I Have An Idea For a Chassis Change
2FAST4U
05-15-2013, 11:36 AM
When I built my MK2 the frame did not have the "X" tubing below the door opening. The under door aluminum was made to the contour of the door opening in the body. It made for a real nice finished look. With the MK4 the final product doesn't have the same nicely finished look. So what if I removed the "X" tubing and weld in a piece of .120 mild still plate that follows the contour of the door opening? It would join the front upright pillar, the bottom, and the rear brace. Under door aluminum would be more like MK1 and MK2 configurations. Comments welcomed.
frankeeski
05-15-2013, 12:42 PM
Bill, Why not leave the x frame in place and use a piece of flat steel to form the contour you are looking for on top of it. That way you won't loose any of the strength the x frame provides but gain the finished look you are after.
2FAST4U
05-15-2013, 12:46 PM
Good idea. I like your thinking. My plan is to use bare aluminum like the original FIA cars, so the under door needs to be correct
CraigS
05-15-2013, 05:34 PM
You can certainly cut out the "X" tubes. My MkII has the backbone tubes but no "X" tubes under the door. But, let's see what other ideas come up in replies to this thread.
2FAST4U
05-15-2013, 05:57 PM
I plan to remove the "X" tubing beneath the doors. I might weld in steel plate or I might leave it open like on the MK1/2 models. I know I'll have to make custom aluminum panels to fit the 289 body.
It seems Bruce is making some radical changes to that area of the chassis already with the removal of the footbox tubing and addition of outriggers. I would think this would be a good suggestion to run past him to have him recommend a course of action while retaining the additional strength of the X members if it will fit with his 289 body. He may already be planning on removing them anyway?
If you look at the Shelby/Kirkham chassis, they have a straight 1 1/8" (or possibly larger) across the area under the door sill that ties the bird cage in the rear to the front tube and gives additional strength . When I did mine, the lip of the door sill came down over the tubing , so I cut a piece of aluminum to fit to the contour of the door opening on top and the bottom fits on the floor. When I made the floor panel, I bent the edge about 3/4" up to match the inside door angle where it meets the floor. Then I just pop rivetted the side panel to the inside body around the door and the bottom edge to the angled piece at the floor edge. At the front and back edges, I made up a piece of aluminum angle, 1" x 1" and attached it to the wheel arches (after forming it to fit the curve) and the body support tube in front, both aligned with the line of the inner door panel, and pop rivetted it in place at all four edges. Very solid and adds a lot of rigidity to that area of the body. Let me know if a picture would help.
Bob
2FAST4U
05-15-2013, 08:56 PM
Yes a picture would help and appreciated
CraigS
05-16-2013, 07:19 AM
I don't know how the top edge of the aluminum is finished on the originals but maybe you could make a steel plate of 3/16 and then cover it in aluminum. Possibly the additional thickness could be hidden.
Sorry Bill, I can't find my camera USB cable so can't download pics at the moment. As soon as I get this resolved I post a couple pics.
Bob