Clutch Cable Adjustment

[SCFFR]

Before I posted this thread, I did quite a bit of research in both forums but in the end still wasn't quite sure if there was one correct procedure.
I have a 351W based engine, Quick Time bellhousing, RAM clutch, Ford Racing arm and release bearing and Steeda quadrant kit with adjustable cable.
There seems to be two thoughts on how to adjust the cable. One is to get light tension on the cable and let the release bearing constantly ride on the fingers of the pressure plate. The other way is to have about an 1/8" space between the release bearing and the pressure plate.
When I test drove the go kart last week, I had light tension on the cable and the bearing was in contact with the pressure plate. The car shifted fine but there was really no play in the clutch pedal.

Since I'm using the Steeda quadrant, I called their Tech Support yesterday and was told that my application was unique however the one thing I should do was have the 1/8" space between the release bearing and the pressure plate. I asked him by having the space, will the release bearing move back from the plate fingers when the pedal was fully released. He said in 99.9% of the time it will but there will be a case where a return spring will be needed.
After the phone call, I jacked the car up and crawled under to adjust the cable again. This time I adjusted the stemball nuts so that I can move the arm back about 1/8" from where it contacts the pressure plate. Note that the firewall adjuster was screwed completely in towards the firewall. With this setup, there appears to be between 1/2" to 1" of free play in the clutch pedal. I noticed that even though there is a stop on the clutch pedal (stock from the SN95 pedal box), in the FFR chassis, the back of the pedal hits the firewall before the stop can hit the stop plate. I took the rubber plate off the stop and put in a 5/16" bolt which is adjustable.

I need to get the go kart out again to see if this adjustment works properly. Fortunately, with the firewall adjuster I can easily add tension to the cable if this setup isn't correct/doesn't shift properly.

Just curious, how many of you have your clutch adjusted so the release bearing is in constant contact with the pressure plate and how many have a small gap between the two?

Thanks for your feedback,

Ron

[CraigS]

Mine is in the real light contact condition. When I push the pedal w/ my foot it feels like there is maybe 1/2 inch of free play. But, if I push the pedal by hand I realize there really isn't any free play. What I feel by foot is just the 'everything bends slightly' before I feel much resistance.

[SCFFR]

Thanks Craig.

After I posted this morning, I went into the garage and read the instructions that came with the Steeda quadrant again. It stated to turn the firewall adjuster until there was light tension on the cable which now seems to somewhat contradict what the tech told me yesterday. If there is any tension on the cable, the release bearing will be in constant contact with the pressure plate.
Agree with your assessment that the pedal play is easier felt with your hand than foot.
Another question... do you always push the clutch pedal until it hits the stop when changing gears or push it until the shifter moves smoothly to the next gear? I don't think I have ever had a car or truck when I always pushed the clutch pedal to the end of its swing. There have been quite a few posts about having a proper pedal stop so not to bind the clutch.

Ron

[skullandbones]

I have never used a cable system before this project. Most of the rides I had were mechanical and therefore by design easier to adjust, at least, that's my feeling about it. It was easier for me because I could see the "black and white" results of my adjustment and it was very repeatable. When I went to a hydrolic clutch, I wasn't as sure about the adjustment as with the mechanical. Now the cable seems to me to have that same gray area with respect to absolute observational verification. But the important thing is that the throwout bearing is floating on the tines of the pressure plate with no excess pressure on it until the clutch pedal is engaged. From what I have seen with mine is that the tension on the cable is necessary to keep it engaged or it will literally fall out of it's socket (non adjustable cable). The pedal stop on mine is to keep the pedal height constant in the resting position and gives a good starting point for the adjustment process. Now that I have driven a little, I can see that the cable is stretching in and I need to depress the pedal a little more and I can feel the slight give in the pedal (couldn't feel that before the driving). Now with the clutch adjusted pretty well, it will only take a minor tweeking of the firewall quadrant adjustor to bring the clutch engagement point back to where it should be when I have to press too far down to change gears. BTW, I have the RAM clutch and alum flywheel set and Wilwood pedals. I like being able to micro adjust the clutch with the quadrant adjustor without grabbing a wrench and crawling under the car. Also, there is the visual of the clutch fork. For those with an adjustable cable you can eventually readjust it after stretching (under the car) and put the firewall adjustment back to the firewall and start all over again. Ron, I appreciate your bringing the whole thing up in your threads. Thanks, WEK.

[CraigS]

I don't think having the t/o bearing in slight contact w/ the PP fingers is a problem. here is why: 1-Everything I have ever read about this says that is the way it's done.2-think about the stock setup w/ the ratchet mechanism that continually keeps adjusting on it's own.3- also think about a pure hydraulic clutch like my wifes 2010 mustang. There is virtually no noticeable free play in that pedal which makes sense. Compare it to a disc brake setup: how far do the pads move away from the rotors when the brakes are released? I think the t/o bearing moves about that same amount when the pedal is released. And that distance is measured in thousandths of an inch.

[skullandbones]

Exactly! X2 and in fewer words than I.

[SCFFR]

Thanks again for the feedback.
I currently have about 1/8" of play with the clutch arm but that doesn't mean the same play with the t/o bearing since it rides a little loose in the arm. I will test drive as is and see how the clutch feels. As WEK mentioned, it's easy to adjust the tension of the cable with the firewall adjuster so I'm not going to worry about it too much. At least I don't have to crawl under the car for adjustments!

Ron