Clutch Firewall Adjuster Question

[SCFFR]

Took my first go kart ride today.......pretty exciting. Everything seemed to work fine. The clutch engaged properly and the TKO-600 shifted smoothly. Probably need to bleed the brakes again but that's pretty easy.

I made myself a note to check the cable adjuster nuts on the arm since I reached under the car and felt the second nut was loose. I also went through all of my paperwork and found the instruction sheet for the Steeda quadrant kit I had installed. The instructions are pretty simple. The firewall adjuster can be turned out of the firewall to put light tension on the cable (so I guess the release bearing will always be in contact with the pressure plate). It goes on to say that as the clutch wears, the cable will get tighter so I assume that adjustments then will be made by screwing the adjuster into the firewall (as opposed to getting under the car). My question is, with the new cable and clutch assembly, where should the adjuster be initially set? Should it be screwed all the way into the firewall, all the way out or somewhere in the middle. Where I had the cable attached to the clutch arm, I only needed to screw the adjuster about one-half turn out to get the proper tension on the cable. If the cable gets tighter over time, I won't have much room to turn the adjuster in to compensate.
Thanks,

Ron

[CraigS]

I agree w/ your assessment for future adjustments but what can you do? Do you have the cable that is adjustable down at the throwout lever? IS there any adjustment or alternate hole in the quadrant at that end?

[skullandbones]

Ron,

If you have an adjustable cable I would do the initial adjustment on the part down at the pressure plate fork and have the firewall quadrant knurled knob adjusted as much in as possible toward the firewall. That way you can raise the hood and reach in the front of the footbox and turn it as you observe the fork. I take any slack out of the ball and socket at the fork and then feel for play on the clutch (it's an estimate). I figure I can do that fine adjustment several times before getting under the car again to reset the cable. BTW, I didn't have an adjustable cable but got a stemball swedge at Grainger (part#13H934) which in effect created my own custom length cable. I will probably get an adjustable one when I run out of custom cables. I also got to drive for some distance today for the first time to the DMV and the clutch worked great. It's different getting these things out on the road as opposed to driving around the block in your neigborhood. Good luck, WEK.

[SCFFR]

Thanks for the feedback.
No, there is no type of adjustment down at the fork. It's just the threaded rod end of the cable along with the stem ball nut and second nut. With the adjuster screwed all the way into the firewall, I'm am just about at the bottom of the threaded rod on the cable. Probably have a thread or two left before it bottoms out. However, the arm is snug and there is light tension on the cable which according to the Steeda instructions, is the correct adjustment. If I turn the firewall adjuster out, it will add more tension on the cable.
I do have a stop on the clutch pedal. Actually, it's the stock one that was on the pedal box and pedal arm so I'm not going all the way to the floor with the pedal.

Ron

[michael everson]

I think you will find that the cable will stretch a bit and loosen up. This is more likely than the clutch wearing and causing you to adjust it in. I think your fine where you are. I have never had to take tension off the the cable.
Mike

[SCFFR]

Thanks Mike.

The trans shifted without any issues so will just leave as is. Sounds like the best plan.

Ron